I would like some advice gentlemen, I pre-ordered the Mato Sherman w/o electronics from Phil. Should arrive after the 20th sometime. My question is this what electronics pkg should I go with, I was originally going to mod it into a 75mm but I am going to keep it the way it is as a 76mm. I thought of going with the DBC3 and Benedini from Dan, and although I want to support his endeavors, I am second guessing my decision. And here is why, I do not have a tank that I can use a spare rx-18 from or have an "apple" these would be additional purchases. The SLU looks ok, but I am starting to hear problems with the reliability, as these come from the same manufacturer as the hooben electronics. Now I may be totally wrong on that and there may be no problems what so ever, also I want full Tamiya compatibility, which I am not sure the SLU has. When I factor in the costs of the DBC+Benedini+IR receiver (Tamiya)+RX-18 its around 350 which is around the same as an elmod w/battle system. Or I can use Tamiya units which then the price increases even more. I'm confused. So what would you all do? All input is welcome. Thanks


Cheers,
Wade

Tamiya.










~ Jeff

Some how I knew you would say that . I priced the "super" Sherman dmd and mfu and it is 411, factor the IR receiver, cables, and such, 500+ which is more than the sherman 105mm by $25. which includes a Tank with it lol


Cheers,
Wade

http://youtu.be/zXLqG_SER0c

SLU

I guess I should have added that a future purchase will be a Tamiya Pershing, so I most likely will not be using Tamiya in this build as I want to keep cost's down a bit. Is the SLU fully Tamiya compatible? I know there were issues of the tank not slowing down when hit like Tamiya's system.


Cheers,
Wade

Wade, I have 5 Mato Shermans converted to other variations...have all HL with RX-18 and they all run good. 3 have DBUs.
If you're going to keep it 76mm cut of that lower turret ring.

Some how I knew you would reply like that

You know, that just is not feasible to do that ... compare a kit with individually pricing items out. Now when you put together a special project like this, the outcome is always going to be the same ... a much higher price. Been there done that.

So your options are:

1) Buy the Tamiya kit and rob out of it what you need, sell the remainder as a static kit

2) Wait, shop around and get the electronics off eBay used or at a reduced price than from most sellers and vendors

3) Or just buy a tank WITH the electronics already installed

LOL









~ Jeff

Thanks PC. I really like the sound of the Benedini radial. I do plan on cutting the ring. I think this is still the cheaper route, and it is reliable and sounds great. Actually the SLU would be cheaper, but I am still not convinced on the reliability yet, but that's just me. Also deciding on whether or not I want to get a Hooben T55 and make it a IDF Tiran 5

Some how I knew you would make a reply to my reply like that lol
I have way too many projects, Still working on my deuce build, I need to look into tamiya electronics more closely, thanks for spending my money Panther lol.


Cheers,
Wade

people wit Tamiyas say no but don't know if they have tried the SLU in person i can say the my T-34 was set at 6 hits after 3 it slowed down at least 50% at 4 at least another 20% and at 5 hits i was probably running at a 10 to 15% powerit doesn't have 45 degree protection but i'm sure by installing a a sheild at tha point the tamiyas are at would do i don't know why they don't change that prizim to something that is omni-directional so that it can be hit at all angles i'm sure the real tanks could be hit from all angles

Are you sure about those prices?

I just got 3 RX-18s from Banana Hobby for $7.50 each. The DBU is $15. The Benedini was $140. I don't remember what the DBC RC3 was off the top of my head, I bought the DBC RC2 from David (I think it was $110 shipped for two DBUs, the DBC and sound card), then the chip, but I think you can get RC3 from Dan in the same range.

Since I hooked it all up to one plastic card with a $6 HK orange Rx, I plan on switching the whole thing between tanks on the fly, it pops out as a unit. I just need to get Windows running on my mac or a cheap PC so I can really get the most out of the capabilities of the Benedini system, ie, switching to T-34 as opposed to the Maybach that's on it now.

From dan's site DBC3 100.00, benedini 140.00 and a Tamiya apple runs around 80.00. I had seen the rx-18 around 25.00, I didn't know banana had them for only 7, good to know thanks. Do they all work? Also while I am at it, where can one get the Tamiya apple? I checked AAF museum but did not see them listed. And tower wants 120[:'(]

Cheers
Wade

I have to weight in here, I have strictly BB HL tanks. I would like to make a couple of them IR, but not sure of the route to take. I have been told that if I go with the SLU. I will only have to buy the radio and receivere to go with it. Is that so ??
I really don't have a bunch of $ so an honest dollar answer would be appreciated.

Jim

Jim,

From what I have researched, yes all you would need is the TX/RX, the SLU has everything included "apple" and all.

I believe the SLU is listed at 209.00 CAN

you do need a hobby 4 ch radio to run the SLU i bought the 6 ch from Hobby King with shipping and everything it was around $45 works great

GD ... I knew you would reply, to my reply like that!! LOL

I have a box full of electronics I need to put into tanks. Once the tank battling stopped, so did the rush to build tanks.


Hey, you asked!










~ Jeff

I bought them off eBay for around $90 a while back. When you open it up, it's one sensor, under a pyramid. The HL unit is a cheap copy of it, without LEDs. Tamiya uses high a quality chrome dipped pyramid and light filtering lens. The DBU has 4 quality sensors, so is effective as the Tamiya, the only drawback is it's hard to get the 45 degree defense since the sensors read so well.

I ended up installing the sensors and LEDs in the periscopes of my StuG. Works like a charm and there's no big apple sticking out of the tank. It's range is as good as Tamiya, my son was hitting it with the M4 from clear across the yard in sunlight, at least 60 feet away, which is hard to get that same shot when we only had Tamiyas. I really want to test out the Tamiya under ideal conditions (flat concrete pavement and sunlight) to get measured results. I've heard claims of 90 feet in sunlight which I find hard to believe. I haven't seen that in battling in my tree covered back yard using Tamiya only gear, but it's not flat.

I'm not bashing Tamiya mind you, it's the gold standard as far as I'm concerned, I'm just letting you know what I've found figuring this out myself. The StuG looks pretty neat without the apple, I love it and the only shortcoming I have with the whole setup is the tank design itself. I didn't think not having a turret would be too much of a hassle since it can be steered easy enough to aim, but in reality, on grass in the battlefield, it's awesome until it starts taking damage, two hits and the loss of power on grass really cuts your ability to fight back. I know when the Tammy Tiger starts to crawl with damage, it's still a formidable weapon when that big 88 swings around. The StuG just sits there getting chewed up while I try to maintain 45 degrees to whoever's shooting at me.

What's worse is, I just learned this in the past week or so, just as Profiline sent me the Jagd IV (V) kit. So now I'll have a selection of tough to battle with SPGs.

You did the same as I did....since Mato innards are crap, I got my Mato w/o electronics from Phil and got HL for it. With a retiree income and a multitude of variants, it's the cheapest way to go and still have a good running tank, especially if you are going to
perform major surgery on it.

Thanks for the input fella's. I think that I am still leaning towards Dan's setup mostly because I think he did a fantastic job with the sounds of the radial engine (it just sounds right) w/ the Benedini. Also over the years I have heard nothing but great reviews of Darkiths DBC. As I stated earlier, my plan is to get a Tamiya Pershing so that I have at least one Tamiya. And I trust in what Dan and PC say about the RX-18 board being a decent esc. My other options would be of course the SLU or Elmod. The cheaper route is the SLU, but I like the benedini radial sound better. I haven't heard the Elmod though so I can't compare. The SLU is very appealing, price wise, I don't care for how the IR is connected to the apple, and that there isn't inertia, even though I hear slow speeds are good. And with the DBC3 I like the fact the Tamiya apple can be used.

Thanks
Wade

Ps. If people want to chime in, all comments welcome

Here is some things to consider.

As far as I know the SLU does in fact slow down the tank when it has been hit. SO this should not be a concern for you. I wish they had a standard 5 pinout arrangment so the Tamiya sensor could be used. At the end of the day it is that sensor that evens up the systems.

Tamiya is Tamiya. Good quality, accepted, but kind of falling behind the cottage systems with respect to sound quality and variety. I appreciate you kept the price of the Tamiya apple in your comparison on the Tamya system. Many people forget to do that in their cost comparison.

The Benedini and EL Mod packages give you that ability to change the sounds they produce to match the tank you run them in. This makes the whole idea of swapping the audio system between tanks a real option as I demonstrated on the video. So when you factor this in the equation you can see that your total hobby dollar for sound can realistically be spread over a few tanks instead of having a dedicated sound system to just one.

The installation of the DBC3/Benedini is not as invasive as other systems. i.e you can easily remove it and the stock electronics are still there to function like normal. This is an advantage because the tank is still usable even when it doesn't have the Sound and IR modues in it.

Working with Darkith's blessing I have ramped up production on the DBC3. These are now being factory stuffed so you should see a slight price reduction on the RTR DBC3. I just accepted the first two samples, and succesfully function tested the module . I purposely keep manufacturing in Canada. SO the DBC3 is now designed and built in Canada, creating a very slight infintisimally small increase in the domestic GNP. I have gone to pin connections that use servo cables. This does away with the fragile wire soldered directly to the board, and gets away from an inherent weakness.



Also Darkith still sells sthe DBU kits for $15 which is still the cheapest way to add an IR sensor to either Tamiya or the DBC line of IR modules. I personally only have one TBU that is used when in club battle. I can only battle one tank at a time, so one TBU is all that is required for complete acceptance at a club. For goofing around in the back yard I use the low cost DBUs. I have also modifed the HL receiver with LED's. I used one of these at Danville, and people were lighting me up like a Christmas tree, so no one complained.

I will say this. With a Tamiya conversion, if something goes wrong Tamiya will replace it free of charge. You buy it one Time. Can anmy of the other choices say that. One wrong connection an an RX 18 and your done. i don't care if it is 7 dollars or 70 dollars. you still need to pay for a spare or replacement. Same goes with all the other types. Now, I have done quite a few Tamiya conversions and never had to replace anything. I also have a new El-mod system for my HE Abrams. I also have 2 DBCRC3's from Dan for a HE Leo and an HL ZTZ99. So I am not biased towards one system or another. The Tamiya is just more reliable , plug and play and guaranteed for life.

Yes I agree, the reliability, quality and lifetime guarantee are what makes Tamiya who they are. I have built plenty of them, just not their tanks. My deuce I am building is on a Tamiya. And I do plan on buying a tamiya Pershing. On this build I want to keep costs down, so I can have money left over to put towards the Pershing. I appreciate the input, when one finds a great product, they will recommend it. Dan thank you for the heads up on the revamped DBC3, I like how you are going with the pin connectors.

Cheers
Wade

I really like the updated DBCRC3 Dan has helped put together. That is why i had bought 2 of them. He was even gracious enough to make a custom sound set for the ZTZ99 for me from a Centurien or chiefton deisel tank , which i know will sound awesome. i just have not had the time to install the systems yet. I am trying to complete this HE Abrams with the El-mod. i started this project some time ago that is why it is first on my To Do list. Then i will do the HL ZTZ99.
I can fully understand the need to stick to a budget, especially with multiple projects, thats why i would go with the DBCRC3. Plus Dan is always around for support. I don't know how easy it is to get to speak to someone about the SLU. aND IT DOES HAVE SOME ISSUES, WITH CERTAIN RADIOS AND IT DOES NOT LIKE CERTAIN RECOIL SYSTEMS.

I really like the updated DBCRC3 Dan has helped put together. That is why i had bought 2 of them. He was even gracious enough to make a custom sound set for the ZTZ99 for me from a Centurien or chiefton deisel tank , which i know will sound awesome. i just have not had the time to install the systems yet. I am trying to complete this HE Abrams with the El-mod. i started this project some time ago that is why it is first on my To Do list. Then i will do the HL ZTZ99.
I can fully understand the need to stick to a budget, especially with multiple projects, thats why i would go with the DBCRC3. Plus Dan is always around for support. I don't know how easy it is to get to speak to someone about the SLU. aND IT DOES HAVE SOME ISSUES, WITH CERTAIN RADIOS AND IT DOES NOT LIKE CERTAIN RECOIL SYSTEMS.
The Tamiya Pershing is an excellent choice. one of the best kits they make.

Gregg

That is a valuable point about the Tamiya USA return for a free replacement if you have trouble.

I will say that I will do my best to ensure you have a product that works as advertised, and you shouldn't worry about the product. However as part of the Benedini is that it is programmable, at some point I have to tell customers that when they start messing with the sound files they are taking on the responsibility of making a mess of it It is fairly easy to program, but there is a slight learning curve.

The latest DBC3 when combined with the Benedini is really quite simple. When you get a complete system from me with a receiver it literally is simple to hook up. Plug in the speaker and the 3 wire cable from the RX 18 and you have an IR ready, Sound equipped tank with a 2,4 ghz receiver. It takes longer to take the top off the tank then is does to hook up the DBC3/Benedini combo. If you have your own receiver then you have to hook up five servo cables, and plug in the speaker. Again no soldering, no taking apart anythng. I have never once had an RX 18 fail due to hooking up the DBC3/Benedin combo. There is just nothing you could do wrong to hurt the RX 18 by adding the DBC3/Benedini.

Once you get some time you will find this out for yourself with the units I sent you.

Honestly you could have that Chinese tank running with sound in less then 1/2 hour. It takes a little time to install the apple wiring , Flash, and IR emitter, but you don't need those hooked up to appreciate the sound.

Having said that though, I will be unavailable for the next couple of weeks as I am starting a little vacation. So wait until I get back, just in case!!!!!!!