<span style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: 'Lucida Grande', 'Trebuchet MS', Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.727272033691406px; line-height: 18.196969985961914px; background-color: rgb(225, 235, 242); ">So I finally got a chance to try my Leo on grass. A total disaster. I can't do one track locked turns, my tracks see to only be held on the sprockets by the bodywork which they grind on when I do turns. Argh I though these where meant to be Tamiyas best running tank! I tried using the hi power option and This doesn't seem to help. Any ideas Leo owners?</span>

Hey tomhugill,

Maybe check your track tension. Is the track really slack? Are you running Metal track or the Tamiya original track? I know with mine, I have both sets of tracks and I can pivot turn without any issues. I could be as simple as adjusting your track tension. Hope it help...

I had some issues like this. I found that there are a few things that can cause this. Firstly, would be the 4 screws that hold the drive sprocket hub onto the transmission. If the splined shaft is not seated in the transmission properly, it will cause the driveshaft to protrude too much, and cause sprocket rubbing on the inside fenders. Secondly, the little hubs that fit inside the sprockets might not be seated properly. On one of my Leos, this was defective (new kit too) and didn't seat properly. I had to replace the small hub that (the aluminum one) that the sprocket screws go into.

The things I would check are the track tension, as mentioned above, and the clearance between the drive sprocket and the fender.  I have about 2mm clearance on my Leopard.<div>
</div><div>Also, the plastic part that wraps around the drive sprocket, part # W1 and W2, captures the track guide horns and is needed to prevent throwing tracks.  If you did not re-install that part when you had the locktite troubles it could be the problem.</div><div>
</div><div>Tall grass will make it difficult to do pivot turns, my drive sprocket will clip off grass and wrap it around the sprocket if the grass is not short enough.</div><div>
</div><div>Do you have the same problem turning on pavement / dirt?</div>

I think what might be happening is that due to the problem with track tension the tracks are catching on the bodywork which could be causing or contributing to the problems. How does one remove track links from the leo tracks?

Try the idler adjust first, the tracks are factory pressed pinned together and will be a bear to dissasseble.

I second that!

See if the idler adjustment is maxed out first.

Posting pictures would help us to help you. Can you take a picture of the track droop when you support it so the tracks hang free?

My Leo tracks hang down just enough that the tops of the guide horns are still between the center road wheels, but just a little bit, say 1mm or so.

Here is my Leo supported so the tracks hang free. Compare yours to these pictures.

I'm not claiming my set up isthe best,but generaly the only track related problems I have are jamming the drive sprocket with sticks, rocks, and in the winter, ice. It has never thrown a track.

Hey guys! Here's some images of my tracks,



They look ok when the tanks no resting on its tracks but theres a lot of slack when its resting on them<br type="_moz" />

What is the line the arrows point to?

EDIT tell a lie its actually part of the hull

The return rollers should keep the upper part of the track supported above that level.

You should have 4 return rollers per side, 2 short and 2 long ones.

Do you have return rollers?

Myreturn rollersbroke off easy but lucky for me I found them in the grass and re-installed them with scratch built gussets.

Just read your edit...

I also noticed in the upper picture that your turret is not closed completly...  is that because it will not ?

2 return rollers where missing when I bought it but im not sure how much difference these will make

That could be the problem.   I don't see any other obivous thing.</p>

Yeh my turret has issues fitting, one of the but the screw things that hold it on attach to was broken when I got it doesnt help either

Read this... post # 108

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._5/key_/tm.htm

Thanks for that solution poh! Btw I bought the metal idler  adjusters and with improved track tension some issues are resolved. Sadly now it seems something in the gearbox is slipping so waiting for my gear bag and replacement bevel gears

Let's see how the tank sets with its own weight on the tracks.

It's possible the spring retainers were installed incorrectly not providing enough spring tension in the wheels. Perhaps setting to low allowing for too much track slack.

Hey, the idle adjusters solved the tension issues. Gearbox now is a problem!

That's a good point.  The torsion bars all install in special holders, part # V1 through V14, and each of these has a specific place they go.  If they are not on proper order the springs will not be set right.<div>
</div><div>See step 14 in the manual.  It would require removing all the road wheels to even check to see if they are correct.</div><div>
</div><div>Have faith, I just bought a used car and it needs a new starter and tires.  I would expect no less getting a used tank.</div>

I dont mind, I got it for a great price. Also the replacement TU comps are pretty cheap compared to a traditional tamiya

Describe the transmission problem again please.

I seem to remember my own problem I had once where installing a retaining pin backwards or incorrectly on the gear shaft caused the transmission not to lock well when trying to move, basically slipped.

There are more than one retaining pin that are different sizes, so installing correctly is really important.

When I tried to perform anything but the shallowest turns on grass the tank would judder as if the gears where slipping. I think I've solved this by replacing the gears with new ones from the gear bag and also swapping one of the outter differentials which looked worn with the middle one.