Kanyhalos

I try to precisely describe the problem.

When I test the tank on my hardwood floor, it drives a little rightwards but it's not a big deal anyway, I can live with that. Once the track teeth stuck inside the idler when the track hitched in an obstacle. I did not pay attention to stop the tank and the left tracks immediately came off.
But other then that, it didn't have any issues with indoor usage.

Whenever I test it in the backyard on short grass and a little mud (it's not really muddy anyway and is covered with grass), I turn the tank several times while moving forward, and it only lasts for a couple of minutes before the left tracks teeth go inside the slot of the idler wheel. Just exactly like on the picture above.
It is a bit hard to understand how is this happening, because the tracks don't have enough space between the top of the idler wheels and the hull, I can't even remove the tracks from the idler wheel if it stuck inside, in that case I must remove the tracks holding pins to carefully remove the tracks from the idler.

I checked the idler wheels and I don't really see any misalignment (I might be wrong), but I see that there is a space between the idler wheels and the tensioners, so the idlers are clucking. I hope it is understandable.
As it is clucking, then it means it can also wobbling because its aligment will depend on the tension of the tracks (I guess). It is strange that the right running gear is just fine, it doesn't have track slippage problem or anything.

Two times not only the left tracks came off but the idler wheel itself too. So now I used Loctite CA to fix it back, as I don't trust the single little screw anymore. I tested the tank but the left track is still coming off.
I might double-check everything again, the road wheels, the tensioners etc.

But I noticed that the left drive sprocket wheel (plastic) is cracking around the axle. I used CA to fix it but I'm sure it wouldn't last long. I did not have time to continue the test.

The problem is so complex, but it might be easy to solve once the root cause is found. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you guys in advance.

Kanyhalos

I didn't really have time to spend on the tank in the last 2 days, but I have noticed that one of the left tracks teeth is broken off, It is missing. I replaced that link with a spare part.

Also I'd like to ask about my idler wheels. They are clucking on the axle, just as you can see it in this video. It this a problem?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpUU...ature=youtu.be

Captain Nemo12

Your idler wheel moving is due to the absence of a washer that goes between the wheel and the hull. Your metal upgrades should have come with one. If not, any washer that fits the required thickness will do the job.

Kanyhalos

It came with 2 washers but they are very thick. I think thats for the plastic hull. I didn't apply them because I thought they don't fit and the little screw of the tensioner would fix the very end of the axle.

Tanker 10

Can you remove the cap on the idler, if so, remove the cap, loosen the set screw that holds the idlers axle, push on the axle from the outside of the idler, this will move the idler closer to the chassis, tighten the set screw.

Kanyhalos

OK, you were right. I did this and it worked. But now I face an other big problem. That long screw of the track tensioner is loose, and I'm unable to fix it in a position.
Any ideas how to fix it?

WWIInut

Hey guys, Don't mean to jump in late in the game but I know what you mean Kanyhalos. I too bought the HL King Tiger in all metal upgraded version (3888-1) as my first RC tank and got 1 20 minute charge out of it before the problems started. No smoke, spotty running and it shuts off every time I shoot the cannon or try to go in reverse. I have been getting a lot of help from raceeing18 (thanks again) and am currently waiting for new RX18 control modules to arrive!!! I over oiled it straight out of the box (the instructions say 3-4ml not drops) and had to take it apart to fix. Broke a post and found another already broke inside. I was ready to scrap mine after buying a new battery and charger to find it still will not go in reverse. I'm hoping that the current $450 I have invested into this thing will at least give me another 20 minutes of fun???? I'm waiting for Erik to post his next batch of scratch and dent (hint, hint Erik) so I can finally get a tank that has some customer support. I'll probably buy one in the next few days anyway and will spend the extra moneys up front. The point I'm trying to make is this, please don't feel that you are the only one out there having problems. There are a lot of great guys on here who will walk you through any problems and try to ease the pain. Do me this favor, don't let this "toy" get the best of you and hang in there, get that thing running!!! Good luck.

sergeantseabass

Erik actually posted the latest batch up here in the classifieds today. They will be up on the site tomorrow. There are a couple on there that I'm looking at but I'll probably have to wait until get my Bulldog built up. Check the classifieds

WWIInut

Yep, I saw the posting and PM Erik on one. Thanks

Kanyhalos

Thanks for the support. I'm trying to get this working you know. Too bad I didn't save for a Tamiya.

Now my next big problem is the track tensioners that came integrated with the Metal Lower Hull from rctank.de. The long adjusment screw is clucking in the lower chassis.
Probably the nut is loose. I tried so hard to set them up and I ended up completely ruining the bolt heads with my screwdriver in the first hour. This is a horrible construction, not a well-tought out one.

I'm not sure how could I fix this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YoEw...ature=youtu.be

ausf

Your Tamiya comment may be more true for you than anyone else on this forum. I don't think you'll be happy with anything short of one and will probably find fault even with them.

The play in the tensioner is there for a reason, the pivot point of the cam that adjusts tension has to change positions to work, therefore there can't be fixed to an end point. If there wasn't play, the distance the cam travels would be tiny.

I think you're expecting performance and engineering that far exceeds anything off the shelf in this hobby, even Tamiya. Unless you're prepared to pay some serious cash for high end German kits, you'll have to be more realistic in your expectations.

Tanks track sideways, throw tracks and require adjustments, including the real ones. Part of driving is adjusting for that. The other is adjustment in suspension and fine tuning with trims and travel points on your Tx, which in this case doesn't have them.

Tanker 10

Check your notifications/PM's.

Joe

Kanyhalos

I don't know if I was clear with explaining the problem of the tensioners, but you probably misunderstood it.

It doesn't just clucking a bit at the long screw, but the holder of the idler wheel has approx 1 centimeter of backlash, and I'm unable to fix it in a position. Therefore I can't play the tank at all. This happened after 3 times of usage.
I'm just looking for a possible fix.

Kanyhalos

It seems the problem with the tensioners was the loose nut on the adjuster screw. I CA'd it to the lower hull plate, and used a screwdriver to drive back the screw to get rid of that gap that caused the clucking. I really hope it will last long.

There would be still much to replace on this tank, such as metal sprocket wheels, metal tracks, henntec tensioners, hobby grade transmitter with trimmers etc.... I don't know if its worth tbh.

Kanyhalos

If anyone cares, I've got the tank working. It will last for a while, but in long term it will need more upgrades aforementioned. Might have been easier way to buy a complete Taigen metal tank or a Tamiya tank, but at least I learned a lot from all these problems. I never thought that building an rc tank is so difficult.

Cruiser133

I usually only buy the HL if they have a model that Tamiya does not offer. I know going into it, I expect a ton of work as quality is NOT up to Tamiya standards hence why they are initially cheaper. After shopping at Asiatam to make it close to Tamiya, I have comparable cash involved to a Tamiya kit. I am grateful HL is around though to offer a cheaper alternative and more selection. Good luck!

Cruiser133

I usually only buy the HL if they have a model that Tamiya does not offer. I know going into it, I expect a ton of work as quality is NOT up to Tamiya standards hence why they are initially cheaper. After shopping at Asiatam to make it close to Tamiya, I have comparable cash involved to a Tamiya kit. I am grateful HL is around though to offer a cheaper alternative and more selection. Good luck!

olegnA

It is the journey that counts not the destination.

I learned a lot from following this thread. And I am part of this journey.

Kanyhalos

The low quality of the basic model is acceptable as it is advertised as a toy, but I think the biggest problem is the lack of customer support and detailed work instructions for upgrades.
It would save us from a lot of annoyance and unnecessary extra work. But it's part of the challenge, I guess.


Let's take the example of rctank.de; they sent me 4:1 gearboxes 2 times, one was mechanically faulty and one had its motor wrongly soldered. I made 1 good out of 2 and I have spare parts...
They gave me a refund for one of the gearboxes because I ordered the lower hull as well.


The metal lower hull did not have any errors, I just misunderstood the usage of the track tensioner (no instructions, contacting the seller is pointless as he doesn't speak english well), I ruined its bolt heads with my steel screwdriver and caused a clucking movement. Fortunately I figured out a way to fix it as described above. Spent 2 annoying evenings on it.


The metal idler wheels did not come with any instructions, so I didn't know I was assembling it in a wrong way and it had a 2mm clucking on the axle. That caused the tracks slipping off and a track guide to break off. Again, this could have been easily avoided with good instructions.


The plastic tracks are good, I see no point on buying metal tracks unless you are a fan of realism. However the plastic sprockets are not that strong, mine already started to crack inside so I CA'd it to the axle.


So far I have spent approx $300 and a lot of time on it.


It included:


- $120 for the original Panther G 3879-1 with all stock accessories
- $69 for the 4:1 black steel gearbox
- $105 for the Asiatam lower hull with tensioners and torsion bars
- $10 metal idler wheels with bearing


- I also handpainted it myself but I have a lot of paints in stock because I'm an 1:72 WW2 modeler


Why I'm mad at not having good instructions, because I'm an engineer in an automotive factory and I'm making extremely well-detailed work instructions for the operators so they've got everything they need to know. A good instruction is invaluable if the assembly process is not error-proof.

Kanyhalos

Today I started to test my tank and it only lasted for 2 minutes. One of the track links break and the tracks split apart. It is because the links are weakened, since I had to remove the metal bars that hold them a really huge amount of times, because of the stupid track slippage issue.

It seems it doesn't matter what I do, this tank never gives me a joyful playtime more then a couple of minutes. I don't know why I'm still doing this. This hobby is all about problems.

YHR

There is a wealth of "how to" on this forum in the sticky section. Almost every single issue you have had has been addressed there. Polarity on a motor being wrong is hardly a problem is it. As soon as you add 4:1 gear boxes you need to reverse the polarity wiring as the extra shaft results in the output shaft spinning in the opposite direction.

As you mentioned, you have learned a lot, and for many of us, this is as important as the tank itself.


Anyway there is a lot of useful info in this thread. Heng Long owes this forum and others for how, as users, we have rallied to share our experiences and fixes for the most common problems.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...-tank-f-q.html

Here is another very good thread. A lot of what is covered here applies to all Heng Long tanks

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...move-them.html

YHR

Hmmmm. That is one of the best running out of the box tanks made by HL. The options you have added should have made it better( Although I don't have experience with the asiatam lower hull) Maybe you should buy a Tamiya. If you are disappointed with that, then this 1/16 thing might not be your cup of tea. Armortec 1/6 scale tanks might be more inline with your expectations.

IF you are not having fun, and you don't enjoy the tweaking, then you need to find another angle.

Kanyhalos

The problem is that I'm a novice tanker, I had no idea what to expect, and I purchased a lot of custom upgrades (Taigen, Asiatam etc), and because of the complete lack of instructions, I tried to do my best to assemble them, and made a lot of errors during the process. It has nothing to do with Heng Long, it's the aftermarket sellers in Europe who doesn't speak english. Having a HL FAQ here is nice, but it would have been better to see it 2 months ago. My actual tank is far away from the original HL so its a different story now.

Kanyhalos

I put the tank back in service, and it lasted for 10 mins now.
A little stick stuck between the tracks and the wheels and tracks came off in the right side. I am probably cursed LOL.

I have to realize that this tank is not suitable for playing on muddy grass terrain, it's too much stress, no matter how careful I am. It must played on hard dry terrain.

ausf

12 years ago I bought the Tamiya Tiger I for $540. If you knocked on my door today and asked to go battle, I'd most likely grab that one off the shelf. In 12 years, besides remodelling it from an early Das Reich to an Initial, the only thing I've done to it was add some ceramic grease to the gearboxes once or twice. My kids have used it and punished it beyond belief.

I did not upgrade anything until last year when I added a metal elevation arm (I was doing it to all my Tamiyas, I figured why not?).

12 years, no mechanical work besides charging a battery. Never pulled or cleaned a gearbox, no track issues, still flashes on firing, MG still fires. ALL ORIGINAL.

The Futaba Attack TX/Rx I bought at the same time is still in use with it.

Bottom line, there are two routes: buy quality and enjoy or go cheap and do the work.