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Old 01-22-2016, 12:03 AM
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47flatfender
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Default IBU2 Pro problem

Hi Gents,
This week I finally installed the IBU2 Pro I received as a Christmas present into my HL Leo 2 but have run into an issue I can’t resolve. All of the functions and sounds work except for one really important one, FWD/REV. I’m using a FrSky Taranis Tx, which I also fly with, and it drives a servo just fine on Ch2(elev) but for some unknown reason the IBU2’s drive circuit is not responding. I’ve gone through the configuration process as instructed in the manual a few times and even tried it with a different Tx/Rx combo, but always get the same result, no FWD/REV. I’m now thinking the board is defective but would appreciate any ideas or suggestions you guys might have before I begin the process of getting it replaced.

CJ
Old 01-22-2016, 12:20 AM
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RichJohnson
 
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Im betting you have a 47 CJ2a.

Take at look at the 16 amp fuse and see if it is good or bad. It might be blown.

I think you have to do a transmitter set up did you download the manual and read it?
Old 01-22-2016, 12:43 AM
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jarndice
 
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Please do not think I am being sarcastic BUT when using an R/C Aircraft the left hand control is set at the bottom to prevent the PROP immediately spinning and risking your fingers,
When setting up a TANK the control needs to be set in the middle otherwise all you get is forward and no reverse,
But of course you knew that already?
shaun.
Old 01-22-2016, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jarndice
Please do not think I am being sarcastic BUT when using an R/C Aircraft the left hand control is set at the bottom to prevent the PROP immediately spinning and risking your fingers,
When setting up a TANK the control needs to be set in the middle otherwise all you get is forward and no reverse,
But of course you knew that already?
shaun.
This isn't the case if you've calibrated the esc/tank control board etc. On the IBU calibration you set everything centre. The transmitter stick isn't set anywhere it's the esc which is calibrated that way.l (ir throttle 0 at bottom stick).

Checking the fuse is a good call. Other question, are you getting the engine start up sound? Are you getting the super spin working?
Old 01-22-2016, 06:56 AM
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47flatfender
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Originally Posted by RichJohnson
Im betting you have a 47 CJ2a.

Take at look at the 16 amp fuse and see if it is good or bad. It might be blown.

I think you have to do a transmitter set up did you download the manual and read it?

Good call on the 2a Rich! Tx setup was by the book and I had checked the fuse also even though I figured the tracks wouldn't work at all if it had blown.

CJ
Old 01-22-2016, 07:28 AM
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47flatfender
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Originally Posted by jarndice
Please do not think I am being sarcastic BUT when using an R/C Aircraft the left hand control is set at the bottom to prevent the PROP immediately spinning and risking your fingers,
When setting up a TANK the control needs to be set in the middle otherwise all you get is forward and no reverse,
But of course you knew that already?
shaun.
Hi Shaun, don't worry about being sarcastic, it's better to leave no stone unturned! I did the calibration with both sticks centered but I have the driving controls on the spring loaded right stick anyways.

Originally Posted by tomhugill
This isn't the case if you've calibrated the esc/tank control board etc. On the IBU calibration you set everything centre. The transmitter stick isn't set anywhere it's the esc which is calibrated that way.l (ir throttle 0 at bottom stick).

Checking the fuse is a good call. Other question, are you getting the engine start up sound? Are you getting the super spin working?
Hi Tom, I have the engine start-up working fine on Ch 5 and assigned to a two position switch. All the sounds work great including the extra user assigned sounds on Ch 6 which I've assigned to a three position switch. The super spin works fine also, I just don't get anything when I push the drive stick forward or pull it back. Any other ideas?

CJ
Old 01-22-2016, 07:42 AM
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RichJohnson
 
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it may be the momentum as we call it in model trains. Or inertia set up setting. Go back to your SD card and set that to 0.
I recall I set mine to a low number and it was way to delayed. For set up I put it back to 0.

How many Willys have you restored? Ive done my share. All military, even had that unicorn called the VJ35U for a number of years. Spent many years in it and my M38a1 as daily drivers commuting.
Old 01-22-2016, 10:57 AM
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47flatfender
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Originally Posted by RichJohnson
it may be the momentum as we call it in model trains. Or inertia set up setting. Go back to your SD card and set that to 0.
I recall I set mine to a low number and it was way to delayed. For set up I put it back to 0.

How many Willys have you restored? Ive done my share. All military, even had that unicorn called the VJ35U for a number of years. Spent many years in it and my M38a1 as daily drivers commuting.
I wondered the same thing about the inertia but when I checked the file it was already set to 0.
The '47 Willys is my second one, the first was an early '46 that had an MB tranny and transfer case. I have another three projects out back, one of them being an MB.
Old 01-22-2016, 01:37 PM
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hello 47flatfender,
in my opinon i suppose the RX to IBU2 cable connected to CH1 (throttle) is faulty, if you have a Ohm meter available check the white wire.
In case the problem is this (i'm 99% sure about) you will need to match again the board with TX since the calibration done with missing channel signal (same as a faulty cable) will not work.
Regards
Ivano
Old 01-22-2016, 10:52 PM
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47flatfender
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Originally Posted by scooter_it
hello 47flatfender,
in my opinon i suppose the RX to IBU2 cable connected to CH1 (throttle) is faulty, if you have a Ohm meter available check the white wire.
In case the problem is this (i'm 99% sure about) you will need to match again the board with TX since the calibration done with missing channel signal (same as a faulty cable) will not work.
Regards
Ivano
Hi Ivano,
You were absolutely correct. I checked the signal wire with my meter and it was bad. The connector on one end had been crimped over the wire's sheath and didn't make contact. I crimped on a new connector and then calibrated the system again and it worked perfectly. I had actually swapped cables around yesterday to test them but I didn't think to re-calibrate the board and therefore got the same result and then wrongly assumed that a faulty cable couldn't be the problem. Thanks for solving my problem because now I'm excited to fine tune my installation and start enjoying this wonderful board!

CJ
Old 01-23-2016, 01:26 AM
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Yup, that's good, you're welcome ...
Old 01-23-2016, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by scooter_it
Yup, that's good, you're welcome ...
Always nice to see manufacturer's/distributors on here helping out with their products. Thanks for checking in on this Ivano. Glad to hear you got things worked out CJ!
Old 01-23-2016, 07:08 AM
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Tanker 10
 
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My last two boards had a bad cable, that's why they send a spare I guess. It's a great product, I have four of the IBU2 base model and love them.
Old 01-23-2016, 08:49 AM
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Thanks to all for the kind words, customer satisfaction is my primary objective.
The cable issue sometimes happens, but i have to say that the fault percentage is minimal in respect to quantity delivered.
Glad to see that IBU2 is becoming familiar in US, Jerry (Tanque here on RCU) is such a good guy and i'm pretty sure his good work will help all the customers.
Regards
Ivano

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