Well, here it is after many hours of work. Stock electronics.

Mods include:
Sandskirts removed
Periscope brushguards out of metal
Metal .50 cal. storage brackets
Metal commanders vane sight
Metal pins in tow hooks
Extended barrel
Holes in trunnion axis filled
Gunners periscope and mantlet machine gun holes reworked
Bow .30 cal accurized and LED placed behind it
Antennea moved to turret top
Second antennea added to turret top made from fishing lead wire from Walmart. A role of this stuff will last a life time. Make sure to curl over the tip because... well.. you could take an eye out!
Holes drilled in the engine crane/hoist brackets

.50 cal. moved to searchlight mount. ( OK, so its a field conversion,my commander needs personal protection.)
The .50 was a project in itself. The barrel is drilled out, cooling holes drilled out, cocking handle scratchbuilt out of metal, ammo box replaced with a Ultimate Soldier version with ammo, scratchbuilt recuperator on the cradle, scratchbuilt front sight hood, ammo box moved to correct positon..

All painting and weather was done with my airbrush. The commanders periscope glass was done with some greenish/blue and then several coats of Future. The exhaust was done in rust color paint and mixed with backing soda. The decals were applied ontop of a coat of Future then Microsol and flatcoated. I'd like to thank the 2 guys here who sent me the extra decals they had. I don't remember who you were but I couldnt have finished it wi8thout your help. Many thanks!!

Very nice, I do like the skirts removed and may do that to mine. Is it the sunlight thats making the color look lighter?

I wanted it to look bleached from use but the sun did make it look lighter in the pictures. I painted the tank standard olive and then highlighted the panels with some white mixed into the olive. I airbrushed a darker olive in all the seams, edges and corners. I weathered it with light earth, browns and tans. Its much better in person.

I used Hunnicutts book on the Pershing for some reference. This book is expensive but worth every penny!

Nice job, shadopilot.

Pershing was my first and has the most work done to it. did you open the hatches?

No, I didnt open the hatches. I thought about it but decided not to. The string method does seem lika a good way to do it though.

I got the metal parts from backyardarmor.com They are for Tamiya but fit the HL just fine.

Looks really great....except the cal 50 position...not on a Pershing! [:@]First tank to have it there was the M-46 and it has to be placed on the armored shield over the gunners periscope, not welding the post to the turret roof.[:-] . Only Pershing variant to place it there was the m-45.[>:] Pics showing style of armor shield and mounting bracket. Going to put on fender braces? Looks like you are going Korean War with 73 Tk Bn....the secondary periscopes for driver and BOG should be removed and "welded" over. This HL Pershing has the later, larger Rotoclone blower motor which eliminated the add'l scopes.[sm=cry_smile.gif]. If you are going WW II with the initial blower motor, (first batch of 50, I believe) plug up the rear hole on either side and try to dremmel the blower housing a little smaller and flatter in front and keep the scopes. The sand shields were mounted with 9/16" bolts and weren't cut off, so for realism, you may want to drill small holes in the outer edges of the track guards (fenders). Tank really looks good...just too clean.

Thanks for the review pattoncommder! I was looking forward to it. You are our resident expert on all things Pershing! I wanted to do the fender braces but something was in the way. The tailight, tow hooks or the curve of the fenders. I forget which. Did you add them to yours? Thanks for the tip on the sandskirt mounting holes. How the heck did I miss that?? I knew you'd give me flak over the .50 mounting position.
I just thought it looked good there.

Very nice work! I've always liked the bleached look and you've captured it perfectly!


Jeff

nice job on the pershing shadopilot

Nice job. Paint looks weathered and the decals look painted on.. Doesn't get much better then that.

Thats one fine lookin piece of armor ya got there Shadopilot! I can only hope my Tiger comes out HALF as good!

awsome pershing im parshal to the sideskirts myself (see pics) but it does look good without them .

Nice looking ride! Very well done, how long is that barrel? How much did you add to it?

You did a great job. I just tried my airbrush again after many failed attempts in the past, I have yet to get it to work. I give up on airbrushing.

Don't give up! Maybe you just need a new airbrush. Make sure to thin the paint too.

I guestimated using photo's from Hunnicutts book. I added about 1.5 inches to the barrel. I cut the middle of the plastic outer barrel and added a plastic sleeve then I glued it back together. Fill and sand the seams then paint.

Don't give up, thin the paint and increase the air presure, find an cardboard box and some water base paint and experiment until it sprays without spitting, hold it about 2 to 3 inches from the surface.[sm=49_49.gif]

I figured 33mm, close enough. Does it still shoot?

Before you spray be sure to filter or strain your thinned paint. A lot of airbrush failures to spray is because of plugged nozzels. Or the it sprays then quits sprays and quits. To strain or filter my paint after thinning and mixing I strain it through a piece of panty hose I stole from the wife. I cut a square large enough to cover the top of the collecting jar and sag in the middle. The I just pour the thinned paint through the nylon and bingo no more airbrush problems for me. Sprays great no stoppages

Good point PZ Especially if your using polly S paints. No matter how well you shake ot stirr them theres always a clump or 2 in it that like to get in the tube.

I used to get so frustrated with my airbrush till I followed another's advice and strained the paint solved all my problems. Gloss paints it's not so much a problem but flat paints they do settle, and Humbrol is the worst for separating alot of stirring to re-blend the flat(matt) paint

Shadowpilot,
I made my track guard (fender) braces out of solder rod...very easy to work with, but I see other better ideas on the site. Up very close, they maybe don't look all that great, but a foot away or at regular viewing distance, they're OK. Here's some pics of the braces..M-26A1 and M-45 all the same. Frosty likes dust skirts...but he never had to work with the dxxxxnd things. Do you have Dick Hunnicutts book on the pershing? I have some good photos of dust skirts if you want to look and position the holes. Don't forget to rust up the muffler a bit. Might want to add the TC's periscope and hatch cover lock. the periscope is pretty big. and adds a lot to the authenticity.
Bill

I have Hunnicutts book and I rusted the exhaust with rust paint mixed with baking soda. Great idea with the soldering rod. Its soft and easy to work with.