You can add some baking soda too the paint and dry brush it on. It makes a good texture with this method, with no worries of damaging the plastic.

Thanks Googly!<div>
</div><div>Jim, thanks for bringing the train scales to my attention. Not sure I understand train scales though, n, ho, o, g, etc... absolute alien to me. lol</div><div>I'll have a look see at some of the sites I've ordered from...but last I recall, I didn't see any. </div><div>
</div><div>Ed, </div><div>You definitely have more resistance to temptation than I do! Over 3 years unbuilt is 3 years too long! lol</div><div>I got the bearings from Ebay of course. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...T#ht_718wt_911 I did a quick spin test on them and the functions like any other rubber sealed bearings do (little more resistance than metal sealed ball bearings, but the rubber sealed once are less likely to fail from dirty terrain), ....so far, but only a road test will truly tell. </div>

Thanks BigTony!

Maybe I will be inspired to get started from your build... LOL

Ed

Well Tony there is only one way to get a hammered look........... lol, based on the pictures that you attached you could use red spot puttyinvery thin layers and sculpt it on using a painters knife (looks like a mini cement trowel). be careful using this stuff as it is laquer based and will melt the plastic if you put it on in gobbs. But thin layers it is fine, the stuff is very workable, sands very easy and has great adhesion to plastic and takes paint really good it is used for body work afterall. Okay that's it dude you have tapped me out on this hammerd surface thing.
So I suppose that you are no longer going to finish that Tiger that has been waiting patiently for you.

I Like you passion to detail and documentation witrh this build.
regards,
Ray

I use autobody spot glazing to represent rough casting. Here are examples on my Sherman. The stuff is easy to use. I put on latex gloves and apply it with my fingers.

[img]{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/301599/Mf96941.jpg[/img]

[img]{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/301599/Ch95240.jpg[/img]

For the turret on my Sherman I used Mr. Surfacer 500 stippled on and sanded right back.



It gives a good subtle cast texture. For added effect, and some scratches and marks. The Mr. Surfacer can be 'smoothed down' in spots using a dab of isopropyl alcohol on a cloth, and gently wiping it.

I got a rolled steel texture on my Tiger, by using a dental burr to make many shallow indents, then using liquid poly cement stippled on. You wait for it to dry, then sand it, and you get a great effect.

I'm looking forward to seeing more of your Pershing Tony!

Cheers,
Rik

Finally had a chance to hop back to it, nothing spectacular going on at this point....just lots of little screws and washers to fiddle with. I haven't secured most of the screw assemblies with thread lock at this point. I like to get an idea how and what things get exposed to view for painting purposes. While the instructions state that the hull and most parts be painted before assembly. Anyone who builds models knows better than that, especially when some things still needs or should be glued, greased, etc..in the assembly process.
<div>
I'm kind of jumping around in the assembly process. I haven't add the road wheels to the swing arms so I can access both side of the arms and wheels for a repaint.
</div><div>Got the ten return rollers assembled and the 28 road wheel halves that make up 14. Also repainted and customized the speaker cover, gloss black interior hull and gearbox shields.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div>

looking nice he tony those tamiya's are top of the bill don't you agree

Agree, definitely worth the price I paid and the quality of the components are top notch. I was a little concerned with hull flex before I got the metal tub in, now it's a sturdy little one. Tempted to have another on order before I finish this build! lol

Wow Tony, painting those metal items "green" sure makes a world of difference on the interiors appearance. Very nice.


Cheers,
Wade

Thanks Wade, <div>
</div><div>I figured, just because no one, including myself will really see the interior, doesn't excuse the absense of beauty....while there are some that only care about the performance, some occasionally like to see what's "under the hood!"
<div>
</div><div>The scheme is kind of inspired by Foose, lol. Not done yet, still one more thing I'm working on to embellish the speaker box and really bring it all together,.....it's really gonna make it "pop." </div></div><div>
</div>

Tony , don't be so quick to dismiss the paint prior too assembly. Yes paint does need to be removed before gluing but it is easier with these tanks. Especially when the tank will have multiple colors. Now your Pershing may only be getting one color I don't know but it can be quite difficult to paint some of the detailing once the entire tank is assembled.

Hey Greg,<div></div><div>Yeah, that's why I'm doing test fits instead of securing everything at this point. Glad I did it this way, although I read through the manual several times before I got the tank and after....I still managed to over look some parts that needed to be glued to the tank, like the 14 suspension limiters, tow loops, hitch, etc....Had I painted the lower hull first, it would have been more work to sand that stuff off to use cement solvent. I don't mind taking my time on this one...I'm treating this project like something I typically do for someone else.</div><div></div><div>You know how that goes,....when you do something for someone else, you do your best to impress.....but when it comes to doing something for yourself....you settle for good enough. Not this time buddy! lol

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____</div><div></div><div>Well guys, today was virtually a wasted day to a degree. What was a great idea in my head, down to the crafting has become a questionable end result. I spent a majority of the day drafting out, sculpting, molding, and casting an emblem just for the speaker box.......that's right, you read right.....just forthe speaker box.</div><div></div><div>If you find yourself asking, "why would I do this and what's the point?" Well my friends, your guess is as good as mine...seriously.</div><div></div><div>The other <span style="font-style: normal;">great</span> idea I have is to cast this in clear resin and embed a mini 1.8v LED in it, wire it to the speaker and have it respond to the audio output so it flickers and illuminatesaccordingto the sound.....again, what's the point? lol</div><div></div><div>What ever route I take or decide toeliminateit from the build isn't all for naught. I could still use this for thepedestalI intend to make once the build is complete.</div><div></div><div>But that's where I'm at,.....loonytown that is.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div>

Double post

Putting those wheels together look like a pain in the butt! I dunno if a Tamiya is for me, looks like a lot of work, except I'd be paying for it rather than get paid to do the work! lol Just kidding.<div>I like what you've done so far the interior really adds truth to inner beauty! This is really interesting and you have some great idea's/techniques I myself haven't seen posted on here before. Two questions regarding the acid dip, really, who has sulfuric acid in their homes and how many bodies have you disposed of with it? Again, I kid, I kid!! I like the pressing in the nut tool, gotta remember that when I redo my kv-1...might come in handy! As for the thingy you made for your speaker box. It looks cool and that's all that matters right? I think I read you saying that you might put this up for sell so you could build another one, you may have been joking but it's apparent this is gonna be a masterpiece when it's done, if this build turns out the way I think it is I may have to nudge you into seriously considering the sell.</div><div>Afterall, it looks like your building this for me anyway.LOL</div><div>
</div><div>Thanks for sharing and I look forward to seeing more from you!</div><div>
</div><div>T.J.</div>

Some interesting ideas to make the build different. I like to see a nice neat interior in these things as well. Keep up the good work.

LOL Someone's definitely having fun with their build. Although I do caution you in adding random stuff inside the tank because while they sound cool and all, the Pershing's inside is really, really cramped once you have it completed.

lol! T.J. I like your sense of humor!

I'm glad some of your are finding this interesting. I'm trying to make this build unique, but I personally don't think I've gotten to that point just yet. Hopefully the interesting stuff to come will be more on the outside of the tank rather than the interior.
As for the acid, uummmmmm sorry, kill count (zero) until it can be proven otherwiseAlso, I can't really take credit for that tool. You can actually purchase something similar for 1/35 scale models which is a rivet stamper. I first came up with a home solution when I couldn't justify paying an upwards of $30 for something that I think I can make on my own. So give it a try in any size, it's great for simulated rivets and nut details. For rivets, you'll actually need to use a different method or piping to have a rounded top. For that I use knitting needles.

As for selling it....I'm glad you have moreconfidencein me that I have in myself, lol!


Dan, thanks man. It really means a lot coming from you!
<br type="_moz" />

Yes sir! I've tested the area where the speaker box embellishment sits and the only obstruction may be the lighting central hub that's supposed to be taped to the underside of the top hull. I'm not really anticipating adding any other modifications inside....except one, but this won't be until the end of the build. I absolutely don't agree with charging anything in the tank, so I'm going to devise a way to easily remove the top with out using magnets. We'll see, but this is the general idea.

looking good...

This is looking like a "Show Pershing"! I like it! When I look at the emblem you made, I think of "426 Hemi" instead of "M26 Pershing", haha. I think what you have done goes well with the Ford Muscle Car V8 sounds the Pershing makes. Although, I don't know if your exterior is going to look as "showy" as your interior, so it may look like two different tanks, outside versus inside.

I'd just leave the ground effects lighting and the racing stripes off of it when your done It could be one of those vehicles that is too nice to drive for fear of a rock scratching the paint job. Your interior keeps making me think of a tricked out show car when I look at it.. Everyone will know who's Pershing this is, won't be confused with anyone else's.

I don't know if the scale or the measurements differ between the Tamiya Pershing road wheels and the HL Bulldog road wheels, but try www.microfasteners.com for some tiny nuts and screws. I used 0-80 scale nuts (website has dimensions) on my Bulldog. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8872440

lol! RSEA, we're kind of on the same wave length! lol That was kind of my inspiration...well, more inspired by FOOSE's signature two tone paint jobs using vibrant colors and black on Mustangs. What's even more funny is my initial plan was to embellish it with a " V8 liquid cool" rather than the M26 Pershing....but I thought that would heighten the cheese factor x's 2 more than it already is. But you'reright, it will be two different tanks, I'm going for realism on the surface and figured I'd keep my fun with in....the tank that is. lol

And no matter what amount to detail I add to this project, it won't be a shelf queen! I don't own 20 somethin air brushes and a closet full of pigment for nothing! lol And no plans to add ground FX or pin striping, lol. Thanks for the compliments and taking the time to look!</p>


Philipat, thanks a bunch for the link! There may be differences in the diameter of the road wheels by a small degree, but I think those bolts and nuts will work! I'll probably insert those at a later time, right now it the pressing in detail seems to be doing the job. Trying to slow up the investment on accessories for the Pershing.</p>

I totally forgot that I lied to the wife until she reminded me today by asking "when my other tank comes in?" I lied to here when I got the Pershing, saying that I got a 2 for 1 &amp;1/3 cost deal setting it up for a future purchase in case I like the Tamiya tanks....well I do damn it. I could be a good husband and fess up.....but sometimes being bad feels so good! lol</p>

Kinda late on this subject. I just removedthe old paint from the turret ofa H/L Pershing. When the paint wasremoved using a good soaking in Purple Power in then used Mr. Surfacer to make the casting effect. Just brush on and dab.

Don

Thanks Don, <div>
</div><div>I think I'm going to do this the good old fashion way and meticulously sculpt each desired texture in. This is the only true way to achieve the results I envision and see from references. Although, most of the techniques can help to produce similar results....I'm not shooting for similar, it has to really mirror the casting from General Steel Casting Foundry and Scullin Steel Foundry. I really do appreciate all the help and advice from everyone though, but I think I'm going to resort to my sculpting experience on this one.</div>