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-   -   Jp 4 (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-tanks-369/11631495-jp-4-a.html)

TheBennyB 09-12-2016 07:04 PM

Awesome work Will. Can't wait to see it on the battlefield in a couple days.

Tanker 10 09-13-2016 04:18 AM


Originally Posted by manchu9inf (Post 12256571)
yes, it does need the final dusting with the tamiya flat, but i use a coat of Future on it to help with the weathering and washes. I had to cut and resolder the IR wire, i think it gives it a neater look. And the Danville dirt is the best weathering for it!

Did you shorten the emitter wire or is that even possible?

manchu9inf 09-13-2016 05:52 PM

I didn't shorten the emitter wire, i just cut it in 2, thread one end through the driver's visor then re soldered the ends together. i probably could have shortened it, it doesnt have far to go to reach the MF unit.

TheBennyB 09-13-2016 06:48 PM

If you don't want to get into soldering you can also release the pins(actually sockets) out of the plug using a hobby knife to lift the tabs that hold the pins in the plug. This is just to get the wire through tighter spaces without the plug, if you want to make shorter you'll have to do some soldering or crimping.

manchu9inf 09-13-2016 08:00 PM

4 Attachment(s)
some more weathering done, almost there before the final coat of flat.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2181031http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2181032http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2181033http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2181034

Tanker 10 09-14-2016 04:46 AM


Originally Posted by manchu9inf (Post 12257264)
I didn't shorten the emitter wire, i just cut it in 2, thread one end through the driver's visor then re soldered the ends together. i probably could have shortened it, it doesnt have far to go to reach the MF unit.

I like your idea, looks much better than going down the hatch.

Tanker 10 09-14-2016 04:47 AM


Originally Posted by TheBennyB (Post 12257282)
If you don't want to get into soldering you can also release the pins(actually sockets) out of the plug using a hobby knife to lift the tabs that hold the pins in the plug. This is just to get the wire through tighter spaces without the plug, if you want to make shorter you'll have to do some soldering or crimping.

I'll try this method first before I cut the wires, might save some time.

Green Amphibian 09-14-2016 05:48 AM

The method of removing the plugs from the molex connector is what I use when needed. Just be careful when lifting the lock tab that you don't break it. I also added an IR bulb tube to the soukoph to avoid the exposure of the wire on my Hetzers.

Herman

manchu9inf 09-19-2016 12:21 PM

4 Attachment(s)
The Jagdpanzer IV performed well, no issues. The side skirts, i think did as designed and while i didnt get any pics of them off, i did lose two (on the same side), but with the O ring attachment, no parts broke. the plastic idler wheel is holding up with metal tracks, which i had a track pin backing out and i think this might have helped in the losing of one side skirts. The shorter L48 barrel is a dream and battled great, if you are going to build a battling JagdPanzer the shorter barrel is pretty hard to beat.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2181525http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2181526http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2181527http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2181528

MAUS45 09-19-2016 04:17 PM

Thanks for sharing the photos, nice to see it on the battlefield.

Tanker 10 09-20-2016 04:53 AM

Glad it worked out for you, looks good on the field.

manchu9inf 09-20-2016 09:56 AM

thanks, the panzer IV suspension is a great platform for battling, the JP 4 and the P4 did great the past weekend. but I do tend to battle my mediums more than the heavies.

manchu9inf 09-21-2016 07:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
i did find a pic with the side skirts a little bit out of position.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2182499

BludoTheSmelly 09-22-2016 06:09 AM

It did perform rather well and so low :)

Tanker 10 09-22-2016 07:01 AM


Originally Posted by manchu9inf (Post 12260229)
i did find a pic with the side skirts a little bit out of position.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2182499

What brand of metal tracks are you using?

manchu9inf 09-22-2016 09:45 AM

It has Impact late style Panzer IV tracks and are really great, I have them also on my Panzer IV and really don't have any issues with them. The only problem i have ever had was on the JP4 when a track pin backed out and rubbed against the side skirts. I think, but can't confirm that it is what caused the last side skirt to pop up at that weird angle. After the battle i took it back to the bench and pushed it back in and didn't have any more problems.

Tanker 10 09-22-2016 11:43 AM


Originally Posted by manchu9inf (Post 12260424)
It has Impact late style Panzer IV tracks and are really great, I have them also on my Panzer IV and really don't have any issues with them. The only problem i have ever had was on the JP4 when a track pin backed out and rubbed against the side skirts. I think, but can't confirm that it is what caused the last side skirt to pop up at that weird angle. After the battle i took it back to the bench and pushed it back in and didn't have any more problems.

Thanks manchu9inf, I have the Impact Winterketten tracks on mine and am happy with how they look and function. I am only able to run the two center sections of the skirts due to the tracks.

manchu9inf 09-22-2016 11:56 AM

Yea, the end skirts have the bend in them that make them closer to the tracks and those skirts come pretty close to the tracks. That is why i think the track pin forced the last skirt up at that crazy angle.

Tanker 10 09-22-2016 12:13 PM

I was also very happy to hear your idlers held up, I had my doubts when building mine but all seems well so far. I probably have two to three hours run time on them now.

manchu9inf 09-29-2016 06:28 PM

The idlers help up fine, i really think this is going to be another great tank, if you can figure a way to get more room for the wiring.


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