Damn. Looking bad ass!!

Looks really good Will. Looking forward to seeing it in a couple weeks if nothing else than show and tell.

trying to straighten out the wiring in this thing is a headache, i shortened the power cables on the DMD and MF unit and combined them to one deans connector and shortened the motor connections as well, but the TBU base, and flash unit are taking up a lot of room. i still dont have the receiver mounted yet! the space in this thing is limited to say the least.

Yeah, the IV is tight too, with the added problem of twisting turret.

That's another reason why I hinge all my tanks so the top flips up like a funny car. I always hated having the wires long enough to remove the top. With a rear hinge, you can route everything to the pivot.

I hear you. I've taken the DMD and MF units and sat them side by side instead of stacking them. I then placed the 2.2 Lipo in that large space under the engine grills. Your idea of getting rid of the Tamiya connectors is a good one. I may follow your lead.

i have some pictures taken that i will post later today of the extreme tight fit and the creativity i have used to snake wires around elevation/rotation motors, recoil unit, TBU base, etc. I almost wish i made a smaller speaker box to help with some of these wiring issues like i did on my Pzr 4, the height of this tank is a huge problem to get the wiring to work in this thing.

Great, looking forward to your photo's. I'm sure I can learn from an experienced Tamiya builder and battler.

more pin holes that need to be filled on the gun cleaning rods, ugh!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2179131

With the wiring, i used a deans micro connector for the on/off switch to ease taking the hull off during maintenance, i am going to re-route the Hull MG LED wire under the main gun, i still need to add the IR LED wire, but the whole wiring is really becoming a problem, i should have made a smaller speaker box like i did on my Panzer IV. I am very glad that i already did the work and shortened the motor wires and the MF and DMD units. When i get done i will take some more pics, hopefully by this weekend the wiring will be done and will take some pics.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2179132http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2179133

Yo Will, I've forgotten does the pz iv mount the electronics directly on the hull floor since there are no torsion bars? If so, mounting the DMD/MF on a mech deck such as the other tammy german tanks could help out. It would raise the height of the DMD/MF a bit but would give you a place to tuck wires underneath. Another option could be to window out the bottom of the rear wall and go into the speaker bay below the air grills.

Thats what I did w/ my PIV, and my spektrum receiver fits under it too.
But I wonder about clearance for the traverse/elevation on the JP?
The DMD is about 1/4 in higher now, not quite level w/ the side of the hull.

Another simple wire tucking trick is to open the speaker box and pull the unused wire into the box.
At least it is 1 wire you won't have to coil.

it does mount on the hull floor, no real change there from the Panzer IV.the gun sits so low it is practically on top of the DMD as it is, probably not going to get much depression or elevation. rotation is probably going to be minimal too. when i get the wiring close to figured out, i will run it and see how it is going to work.

I did do some more looking at it the wiring last night and you could also put the flash unit on the speaker box, but you will have to cut the rear upper hull bulk head to have a slot for the wires to go through and then have that back out of the way. I may yet, make a smaller speaker box.

This is a pic to show how close everything is inside the tank, there is very little wiggle room for anything, the elevation is about 5/8" total up and down and traverse is about a 1/4" left and right from center. there just isn't much room for the wiring. a definite let down in this area. not sure how it will battle. I am leaning towards that this tank will make a great shelf queen.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2179244

This is the version Tamiya should have done.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2179245

or this

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2179311

I'm thinking it'll be a good battler Will. You'll see what a TFA tank can do against stock apples in a couple weeks if you finish it in time. TFA vs. TFA not so much, just jousting at the 10' mark. You could always move to servo's for traverse and elevation to try and save room as well.

That Brummbar looks Killer! Is there a conversion kit available yet?

Brummbar been out there for a while. Juckenburg and profiline have kits.

Profiline is no longer in business.

I tried posting a video of my traverse and elevation but it won't load. I have traverse that reaches the outside of the travel lock on both sides. My elevation is good also and the barrel does depress. Sorry, I wish the video would work. Again, I've placed the DMD and MF side by side and the battery (2.2 lipo) under the engine grills. The TBU is also installed. https://youtu.be/VtIHcDTyc-I Video now working via the link.
https://youtu.be/VtIHcDTyc-I
https://youtu.be/VtIHcDTyc-I
https://youtu.be/VtIHcDTyc-I

Marty, Asiatam has picked up the profiline molds. Not sure on their output/availability as their site isn't responding at the moment.

http://www.asiatam.com/index.php?cat...Profiline.html

I like the ambush scheme and the video played for me!

Thank you kinzavrop, still learning.

What does the inside look like?

Vid worked for me as well. Your paint job is fantastic by the way, as well as the winterketten. Looks like depression could use some help filing off the sau? Maybe internal?

Nice.

I assume from the Tx, you got it from Banzai, but it wasn't on their site when I looked. Ostketten very cool as well.