ericem

No way you can it's to large the backplate. You need to space up the motor way to much. Why are you having such a large issue?? I used my friends crappy hyper starter box with a 12v gel cell and it started the LRP .28 no problem just sucks that there isn't any pegs so I have to find a good spot everytime I go start it.

jombo

arrrrrggg idn the starter box .... its ..i really dont know where to start i hate it so much.
1. the starter box at 12v works for 5 starts thats it the 18 lasts for 15 starts and the 2 8.4 for 10 starts.
2. the box posts are plastic where the power leads are and they melt when you try to start it for more than 30 seconds
3. the $#@!%$$#%%@%$ switch cant take the volts and took a crap
4. the f%$##@@!@#@$%^!@#$% mach 26 ate my clutch nut YES ate it post pics later
the clutch shoes i have on the m26 are the losi lst2 shoes and springs and the springs acted like a laith and cut through my clutch nut and destroyed the springs. in the prosses of removing the clutch nut i put a scratch in the piston which is no big deal but none the less another thing i need to fix (which i have already with some steel wool ) after i asses the total damage i will post back
all i know is the STARTER BOXES ARE EVIL and this would of never happened with a pull start...
oh one more thing!@#$%%$#@!@#$#@!!!@#$@!@#%$#$%$
ok feeling better

Pexeter

Well it's warm here, I live in AZ, right now it's 81 outside.

jombo

actually not really but i will deal with it, at this point i am shelving it the whole st1 and playing with the one with thePULL START yea i said it if anyone ever aska for a starter box i will tell them their evil, hmmm [sm=71_71.gif] maybe i will put that under my quotes at the bottom of the page.
anyway this starter box thing got me all shook up i cant even think straight ok so the pull start is out so the stock motor will go back in for nowmaybe put the m26 in the savage i have a pull start that may fit it.
yea just not my week, the knot on the savage pull start let go , the st1 ate my clutch nut and starter box, the genesis broke a a-arm flying over a 5 ft fence and 20 ft out not bad for the beginning of the week .
man , i think this things a woman, its defenitly got attitude

jombo

its in the 40s here great time to break in a engine, did you get the pull start fixed? i know mine didnt break but almost had the knot almost let go but caught it just before i lost it.

Pexeter

I havent tried it yet, but I was able to pull out the rope with pliers then re-tie a knot on the handle, who knows if it will hold. I forgot to put the rubber stop back on, but Im guessing that doesnt matter? The way it snapped off I would have sworn the rope snapped, I have two giant blisters from trying to get it to start last night . About the break in, can you stop in between tanks or is it best to do all the break in steps in one sitting?

jombo

yes you can break up the break in times.

here are the pics of my suffering and this made me happy again and they came today

jombo

i made it but never installed it but i might . if i do install it then you wont need to spend alot of money on steering servos

ericem

Ok that is impossible! The shaft must have been going faster then the flywheel. That means the collet was slipping. Did you use the collet that came with the flywheel?? or the one that came with the engine? Anyway talk about bad luck. With the hyper starter box it hasn't been charged in over 3 months. Must have started a few cars more then 50 starts I would think. Something is definitely wrong. Did you use a new 12v gel cell? are you using a 12v gel cell float charger? the one from harbour freight works awesome.

jombo

i uses so much red loctitr there was no way it was falling off and it didnt i used a torch to get it off hence i scratched the piston. yea never heard of that before either. but if anyone can do it i can lol

ericem

nooo not that I mean this piece the collet. Did you use the one that came with the mach 427 or the one that is originally used with the flywheel?

jombo

i used the one that came with the m26, the one that came with the st1 engine was loose. and the nut was solid on the shaft.
i should know better because this is the week of my birthday and pretty muckh nothing will go rite untill this month passes. and yes i am supersticios , the impossible only happens on my birthday week. i think this week i am just gonna sit back and watch you guys run your trucks , i expect alot of youtubes videos ok
btw the 12 tooth cb has sooooo much touq with the m26 that i pulled the front wheels off the groung before all this happened

ericem

LOL well happy birthday and have a good one. I suggest you still run the collet with the original flywheel. The m26 one is a different shape. That is the only reason why I can think the nut would wear like that.

madmax22

NOT A FAN OF THAT GUY! what ever I say he just snaps back in the meanest way.

madmax22

wow me an jombo..... jombo hates the starterbox and ate someethinng(?) broken a-arms anything els? And i blew 2 bearings up..... Atleast I got to drive my micro-t then cartwheeled dpwn the road doing about 20mph and broke the rear hub. good thing I got extras! lol. I was racing cars w/ my micro-t and the thing flew witht he lipo in it. Going to order my bearing for the clutch so I should have it ready to go by next week...... I also got 2ft of ORANGE fuel tubeing :P

soccerlaw

So, now that Eric has got me looking at those LRP engines (my girlfriend is really happy that I'm looking at more truggy parts!), the question I have is can I race with the .28? Some people from my local track said that (1) it has to be a .21 to be ROAR legal (does this even matter for local races?) and (2) as they are tight tracks that you don't want the bigger .28s. Do you guys who race have any feedback on either of those two statements? Jombo, you went with a .28 to race didn't you?

KeithjV

What pilot nut were you using? How did it break?

madmax22

YOu can race a .20 if its a truggy you can race a .21 if you want to.

jombo

yes you can race with a 28 and a 28 is the biggest engine that can be race legal , but at your track its basically what the owners rules are.
keith i have no idea what happened the nut is cut at the groove where the spring goes in and the nut was solid on the shaft , chauk it up to one of lifes mysteries.

soccerlaw

So should I go with the Go Tech racing engine 21 7 Port + Jammin JP-1 pipe (combo deal on fleabay) or the LRP .28 + TTR 2035 pipe? My first race is at this track www.nuclear-rc.com. The main track I will be running at will be slightly smaller and much more technical. Conversely, should I just get the ttr 2035 pipe and stick with the stock engine until it gives out? This last option seems the most appealing, but just worried I am going to show up at my first race and have people rocketing past me on the first straight!

And yes... I'm signed up for sportsman for my first race so hopefully won't be a total embarrassment - LOL!

jombo

the go engines are pretty new i would hold off on it , the lrp28 is definitly a performer and with the pipe it screams

ericem

well if you can believe it or not the jammin .28 is even better. I still prefer I got myself the picco or jammin (which are both the same motor's).

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/11201

The Hedgehog

Guys I just ran my first few tanks through the ST-1 today. Upon lifting the truck off the ground and when on the gas the truck wobbles a good amount. Is this normal? Maybe the tires are way out of balance? It wobbles tons more than my Savage.

ericem

Ya it's pretty normal. RTR's never have the wheels glued properly. Go over it, pull all around the tires I am sure you will find a unglued spot. Main issue is it has normal foams which aren't that great to begin with.

ItchyBum

Hey Jombo my MBX5T wheel hub extensions just arrived 2 days ago and i finally put them on last night. It looks awesome now, really wide and i run the LRP Holeshot's so it looks like a real machine. I cant wait to get back out on the track and see how they handle. I also got some 7000,30000 and 1000 diff oils to try