giddyuperic

Is it the same as the VTXST-1 ?????????

giddyuperic

Is it the same as the VTX ST-1 ???????

j_blaze

clutch bell screw and bushing are gone, fell out on last run, did not notice till cleanup at home. What are the steps to switching to a normal clutch bell that does not stick out so far? Do I have to mod the engine mount or order a different one? Has anybody done this yet successfully? My clutch bell is warping also where the teeth are all staring to lean to one side.

giddyuperic

Yes there is a guy who did it. You just have to cut some of the motor mount at the end to get the engine all the way up to mesh the gears right. I will ask him to post some pics. I am putting a OFNA MACH 28 in mine on thursday and with be putting the drill start on it too. So I will post some pics if he does not by then. I know this is off topic but doea anybody know of a tank like this one that will replace mine in my VTX ST-1. And yes I have replaced it with the a factory one and tryed the new o-rings too. So I think a better tank like a Kyosho or something like that.. Any help will do. Thanks

j_blaze

I ordered a new clutch bell from MHD but it did not come with the bushing...great. There she sits - sigh - I'm gonna do the clutch bell conversion and use a 12t bell next with a 46 or 52 spur.

giddyuperic, are you sure its the tank, my lsn was leaking a little last week on the stock engine, might be helpfull.

Another thing, I am being severely out-cornered on the track, losi 8 and revo's were cutting me off all day, what can I do to shorten the turn radius A LOT. Is it the ackerman bar or something in ths pbs? I removed the 30mm extensions and have my epa at 125%, thanks.

catchaser

Check the Sportwerks and the GS racing tanks. I inspected two last weekend at the LHS and they looked like direct fit replacements.

catchaser

Turn radius should be fine with the stock setup. I think it has to do with what you running in your diffs, in your shocks, and shock setup. I'm running 7000w / 10000w / 5000w in my diffs with 30w/25w in my shocks and am giving the more expensive truggies a run for the money. Revo's should be a joke in the handling dept vs the ST1 unless extensively modded. I put alot of money and time into my Revo just to make it handle somewhat like a truggy.

What kinda corners are giving you problems? Low speed U-turns, S's, or high speed 90's at the end of a straightaway?

j_blaze

I got 5/10/3 and still the stock shock oil, feels heavy 50 maybe? shocks are bottoms in tops out, s turns and u turns ar the kicker and our track here is loaded with them. Thanks for the help. I think i may be the servo cause when the truck is stopped the inside wheel turns to just about 45 degrees, thats the same as my buggy which can turn on a dime, maybe the servo saver needs to be tightened?

coololdude

my new version of my vtx.

coololdude

this is the fastest version to date

SHREADHEAD

Put fuel in the tank plug pressure nipple then suck on a "LONG" piece of
fuel line and look for bubbles. When you tip a car forward the inner tank nipple goes to dry
considering its in the back of the tank. Try a Quick bottom end lean test by revving the car
on a box apply full brake and pinch fuel line close to carb if engine dies in less the 3 seconds to lean.
Look for bubbles in line while running and also make sure tank o'ring seal is when doing the first test.[:@] good luck.

SHREADHEAD

For handling try to run the arms above level for more off power push run the rear bones level.
limit the down travel or what some call droop, to your liking, very little at a time
I go with 2 degree of negative camber all the way around, keeps her stable
Give her all the toe in at the rear she can take because 2.5 is max and that's truggy standard any less and you have to be gentle on power
go with 1 degree of toe out on the front for added steering, try 2 but she may be touchy in the bumps
DON'T MAX OUT YOUR EPA OR YOU WILL BURN SERVOS SET IT CORRECT AND TUNE THE TRUCK
Lighter rear diff will give you more off power steering, she will diff out easy er and less ass hoppy on power in the rough
Heavy diff lube in the front will give you more on power steering
Heavy center diff lube will make her more aggressive all around a little harder to drive as far as ass around but drive able
This truck will hang with the others when you tune it to your driving style The lap times have proven it to me

giddyuperic

Here we go, got her all broke in and she is a screamer!!!!!!!! Have do a little chassie tuning, But other then that she is good to go!!!!! Just waiting for my pro line crime fighter tires and rims. And when I picked up the Ofna force 28 they sold a roto starter for it but it was not the right one so will wait tell they get the right one in. use the starter box mostly anyway but it is always nice to have the roto starter for back up.

j_blaze

I like the Himoto wing. I got the clutch worked out, finally, the longer screw did it with thread lock. Went through two muddy tanks today with no issues, I even installed an extra servo tray mount about 1/8 inch in front of the clutch bell just in case, didn't need it though. Love the truck again!!

I also found the problem with the steering, the ackerman bar is binding with the steering linkage half way around, just gotta adjust with a washer or something. I can see where the plastic is worn a bit now, should have that fixed by tomorrow too...its gonna be great!!

giddyuperic

Hey that's great can you post some photo's please and thank you.

j_blaze

Ok, the washer didn't help. Now the ackerman bar is binding with the front differential housing where the hinge pins connect. Going around the track now is sad, having to take all the corners at almost idle speed or try to skid the back end around. I took apart the whole front end last night and tried different combinations of washers and bushings but nothing seems to work. I'll see if maybe I can sand down or invert something and see if that helps. I also threw in a high speed/tourque servo to see if it would help, nope.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pcs-Tower-Pro-...QQcmdZViewItem

Now today my engine was overheating all day, I checked temps after about 3 laps to see if I should lean it out a bit and temps were 374!! so I spent the next few hours tweaking and could not get it below 300. I guess break in is not over yet. Heres what I did for break in. I set up the truck in the garage facing the side wall with a large cardboard box to catch he exhaust. I set idle rich and adjusted trim so engine would rev just above idle till it hit around 200 degrees constant with a fan on it. In between tanks I would let the engine cool and change out the newspaper under the exhaust to see how much "glitter" was left. After 7 tanks there was no more glitter in the residue so I took it out to the track. The SH 21 ran great for a couple days, maybe 10 tanks, and today temps skyrocketed. Even with an over sized head. I'll put the stock head on - with the button - and see if that helps. At least the engine took my attention off the steering problem for now. I guess Ill throw the old VTX 26 in there this week and see how she holds up. Oh, and I have to get a starter box, my arm feels like I dislocated my shoulder.

giddyuperic

I really don't see why you are having so much trouble with the front end, did you hit something really hard? And servos just put a Hitec 645 mg in there they cost about 30 bucks and I beat them hard and they stand up.And your engine what was wrong with the 26 in the first place? I think the 21 is not a enough power for the truggy, even the 26 was getting hot on me so I went to the 28 and she seems to be go to go!!! so far knock on wood!!!!!! Will have it at the track mon or trues and will finsh the break in and see where she is at now. I have a friend who put the whole losi power plant the 427 and pipe and his smokes let me tell you that thing moves. So good luck and if you can post some photo's of you front end and may be someone can help you oput with it.

SHREADHEAD

Genarely when an engine goes from fine to overheat or flat or slow it is
something else other then the motor

coololdude

Hey thank you for the handling tips....I know now my trugg has the power and I knew I wan't getting all where I needed it ... but I did most of what you had wrote and it help alot I got little more dig out of the front end and alot more speed going into the turns....now I'm sure my trugg will keep up now..."L" now I've just to learn not to over drive it..

SHREADHEAD

Nice I'm glad, those are just the general.
Tuneing is the joy for me and the nightmare at the same time.[:@]
I always am looking for more and yes it comes down to driving when she is close.

giddyuperic

Look what I have!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!

j_blaze

Problem solved! I put the steering hinges on the grinding wheel and took off about 1mm off the tops, running smooth now. I'm not sure if a couple bad landings bent something but the chassis is straight, surprise, and none of the plastics really stay bent. No big, shes turning very sharp now, very little play, and we had a bit of rain today so the track will be sticky tomorrow, YES!

j_blaze

ANY BODY HAVING PROBLEM TUNING THE VTX 26, I had a buddy at the track lend me an OS A3 plug today and it ran great, TONS of power! Temps were around 230-240 and I was flying past the landings, WHOA. It took a while to get it right but I'm at 4 1/2 out on LSN and about 3 1/4 on HSN, 1.5 mm idle screw. So if you got the 26 in a drawer somewhere maybe this will give it another chance.

giddyuperic

Just wait it will start have problems sooner or later you watch[sm=cry_smile.gif] I went threw two of them now I run the ofna force 28 and it will leave you in the dust, so much power it is sick. I do have a brand new vertex 26 still in the box if you are so sold on them you want to buy mine ? Never been turned over[sm=71_71.gif]

j_blaze

Is the ofna 28 the same as the sh28? I heard good things about that one. Leave the 26 in the drawer, I'll buy it when this one dies, thanks.