I'm about 60% done on fixing up mine.

I was pleasantly surpirsed - although the manual made it look like it was pain in the gluteus to put together, it was MUCH easier to piece together, compared to the three previous Tamiya kits I have built. The parts tree are more organized in the sense that there was not much searching to do (previously in my experience Tamiya moulds the parts tree in a haphazard way...and looking for parts is a tedious process). I'm left with less leftover parts tree now - previously I have like 3-5 parts trees with a couple of parts unused still attached.

There's quite a number of things which caught my eye - for instance the two small holes at the front bumper....which makes tightening the stabilizers MUCH MUCH easier. Also..... there is a small valley at the gearbox cover right at where the cup joint is.....which makes tightening the grub screw at this joint MUCH MUCH easier. Obviously the design department has improved (either that or Im extremely unlucky in having chosen previously three difficult-to-adjust- kits!)

Also, ALL screws are hex heads. I've not stripped any one so far - these buggers are really tough. I'm not the most gentle nor patient guy in the world either lol so that says quite a bit on the kit's tough factor.

I also think the 'modular' design is a good idea. How do I know? I had to tear down the rear diff AFTER I installed it on the chassis but the modular system made it a cleaner job.

My next step is to clean out and seal the engine. Hopefully I'll get it up and running by next weekend - can't wait.

hi etopsflight


You're right about the kit parts. You'll most probably end up spending more if you bought the kit version. If you dont plan on 'customizing' that is. I love building things up - therefore the kit version was for me, no question.

Having said that im thinking of buying another nitrage lol - my lhs cut the original price of the rtr version by 25%!!

I think the brushless servos that you suggested in an earlier post are excellent but are they worth the price? I thought MY servos were over the top haha lol. Like Qaiz said you can get anything rated more than 8kgcm - thats's what Tamiya recommends in the manual.

My suggestion - if you're into Nitrage bashing - put your money on spare parts. If youre into high speed on road racing - put more money on hopups. And probably a picco .28. Haha

nauticar

Everything that Nauitcar said could not have been said better than anyone else.

Completely agree.

Lol lucky 2 Nitrages :P.

Keep one for on - road, one for off - road :P.

Well I cleaned mine really well.

Power hosed it down.

All ready for a new engine.

Its never been soo clean since it was new lol.!

Tho I got water in my fuel tank. :S.

Enjoy...

nice and clean like it should be lol dont wory about the water in the tank just leave the tank some were warm

I cant lol, its raining again outside, I dont really care because I dont have an engine yet so I cant drive it.

I need diff + shock oil

For the diffs im planning to run.

24 - 20 - 10

And shock oil.

30 wt or 40 wt in the front, and 60 wt in the back.

Sounds good.?

sounds terabble you willl destroy the truck it will blow like your engine

ok here is the best set up

This is a general outline for setting the tamiya nitrage up for racing.

center diff fluid: 11000

rear diff fluid: stock

front diff fluid: stock

rear shock fluid: 70

front shock fluid: 60

rear sway bar: hard

front sway bar: none

front brake: 60%

rear brake: 40%


toe out: 2 degrees

also, to help the handling and acceleration,

remove the stock tires, and add 1/8 truggy race tires, the rims provided actually fit those standard size tires....and handling is greatly improved


that is a verry good setup im using it at the moment

Sounds good.

But I want more power going to the rear than the frontt.

I kind of have a fwd effect right now.

thats actuarly because it has a center diff but if you put the diffs back to stock and then swap the rear dif and the front dif making sure they are the right way round and you will be fine

Will do that.

BTW I wanna make my Ofna .32 into a statue lol.

But its tooo greasy.

Can I just dump it in Nitro for like 5 - 10 mins.

Or is there a better way to clean it.

being as its destroyed just put it in the dishwasher or make a sink of hot water and wash with fairy liquid

But I wanna keep it from rusting.

Ill just wash it down with nitro now lol.

The starter system is still good.

The carb is still good.

hey everbody what do you do if you can start the engine but when you put the brakes on it cuts out

drive without brakes....

really i think it might be the glow warmer but now i have to wait for it to charge
and wouldn't that be a bit dangerous

what has the glow igniter got to do with the brakes :S

and nope. just dont point it at yourself.didnt ya notice me at the track

I have no brakes, thats why I kept sliding it around when I wanted it to stopp...

Im stuck.

How the heck do you get the fly wheel off the engine.!?

hey everybody

i was installing the servos just a few hours ago and thought of something - what does everybody have as their power source on their nitrage?

futaba specifies that it has to be nicad (?)

4 AA's @ 1.5v each

Im using jr tho

for the fr32fx?

yes!

im trying a hammer now

and ideas

its actually an ofna .32

thanks

would them batteries be nicad or nimh?

alkanine [:-]....

do you have a 9mm wrench?

[sm=bananahead.gif]

how long do they last?