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ORIGINAL: MBX5T Maniac

Most people like to start with the setup provided with the MBX5T. I have 5k 10k, 2k in the diffs.

Also, when you build the diffs, it says to put these little S3 o-rings in the diffs. Don't.

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ORIGINAL: myrc

Actually it says in the book only to exclude the S3 rings in the rear diff.Make sure you mark your diffs such as R for rear C for center and F for front. I am sure if you race buggy that this is only common sense.

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ORIGINAL: myrc

Actually it says in the book only to exclude the S3 rings in the rear diff.Make sure you mark your diffs such as R for rear C for center and F for front. I am sure if you race buggy that this is only common sense.

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Here are some build tips for guys putting together a MBX5T (or buggy)


The biggest tip would be prepping the diff cups and double-gasketing them. Using like 3 different grit sandpapers (I use emery cloth) you want to sand the cups until they’re smooth as glass. I use 320 grit, then 800 grit and finally 1500 grit. Place the paper on a perfectly smooth table and hold the cup on the paper. Swirl it around in a figure 8 pattern. The idea is to get the cup perfectly smooth and flat. When you go up to 800 grit, you’ll quickly see the plastic get very shiny smooth. If you didn’t go long enough on the 320 grit, you’ll clearly see it. I then do a quick run with the 1500 grit and they’re dead straight. What this does is ensures the cup won’t leak against the ring gear or spur gear. Most people blame the leaky Mugen diffs on the o-rings, but 95% are at the cup (just take two cups and face them together and see the light in between them as you rotate them face to face). Remember, the cups are not machined, they're molded. Then double up the gaskets (Part # C0257). I use my screws 2mm longer than the manual and tighten up. They’ll NEVER leak from the cup (Tip comes from Chad Bradley).

I also have thicker 5mm (S5) o-rings for the out drives. These are tighter than the stockers. The real key is to use grease on them (the thicker S5 o-rings or the stock S5 o-rings) and in the slot on the outdrive shaft. Of course, do NOT use the small S3 o-rings.

I use the stock Mugen brake linkages so I put a slight z-bend in the upper rod to get it fit right. You won't be able to easily adjust the rear brake bias with the z-bend, but remove the small 2x10mm screw and twisting it is very easy. I usually get it set right and then adjust the front in or out. I know most guys love the Kyosho linkages. If you’ve had the Kyosho, you may like it and want to fit them on the Mugen. The Mugen uses fuel tubing where the Kyosho has those little springs. I’d like to change mine over to try the springs, but don’t have a Kyosho to see how it goes. Maybe someone else that switches can post pics.

The kit should also have shims to get the ring & pinion mesh set. They go outside the 8x16 bearings on each side and just add pressure to get the ring gear closer or further away from the pinion. They are 14mm x 16mm by .1mm thick. On the buggy, I always used two on the diff cup side to push the ring gear away from the pinion. But I've heard that the new 46/10T ring & pinion on the MBX5T doesn't need them. Regardless of what anyone else uses, always check the backlash on your car.

The rest of the car goes together like butter. New shocks are SWEET!

Best regards,

Tony P.

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ORIGINAL: MBX5T Maniac

That's what the Swaybars are there for.

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ORIGINAL: MBX5T Maniac

The swaybars actually limit the suspension downtravel, so when they are installed, you aren't getting maximum downtravel.

Excuse, I made a mistake, in combining body roll and weight transfer.

I'm not exactly sure what you are asking though. What do you want to know?

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ORIGINAL: MBX5T Maniac

That fuel filter that you have on the pressure line, did you remove the filter in it? If not, I'd recommend it.

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