bob418

My Feedback: (4)

Here back from Castle regarding the use of the built in BEC on thier ICE 75 ESC::

Horizons info is a little off as in you can use the bec with the full voltage rating on the ICE controllers. It is the older Phoenix line that you couldn't use the internal bec over 3s input.

Now with that said - the size of your plane & the number of servos you are using I would not use the internal bec anyway. There's to many variables with the retracts that could cause  hi current draw if they got a little sticky if you know what I mean. With that and the number of servos and the use of 8s I would have to recommend the use of our CC BEC Pro that will provide you with plenty of power to ensure everything has what it needs to keep the model safe.

SO it looks like I will have to pick up CC BEC Pro-   WOW this is a PIA!! (Pain in Butt) 

But the plane is looking good!!

deuce77

I got an email from Castle Creations today. They suggest not using the built-in BEC but instead use a separate battery pack or a CC BEC PRO to power the Rx. Since I bought the BEC yesterday that's the way I will go. At least they are consistent.

bob418

My Feedback: (4)

Here is a picture of the slight adjustment to the nose gear retract - to reduce the chand of binding up whilig retracting the nose gear. Ijust rounded the corner with my dremal - as shown in the picture with the tip of my pen.

bob418

My Feedback: (4)

I also got an email from Horizon and they said thatthey would update their website to reflect the OOPS

Aero Lex

Well being that I have this model as well I thought I would share some of my experiences as well. Ditch the  red spinner because it is cheap crap that flew apart after 2 flights. It also makes it look clownish. I suggest an aluminum one because thats whats on the real Texan and it looks infinitely better. Since it appears that you're already nearly done all I can say is for the star and bars along the fuselage cut the red line and a little bit of the blue if you can or else it will show through.  This won't help you but may help with others doing nitro.  Make sure you epoxy the static wicks on the tail, not CA or they will vibrate right out.  Same for the pilot figures.  I used CA at first and the guys started bobbling around inside the canopy.  Oh, also the balsa loops in the battery/ fuel tank section are kinda weak so dont yank on them trying to ratchet down your pack or you wil break it. Ask me how I know. Instead, I looped the strap under the wood through the gear bay and out the other side. Enjoy your maiden, it tracks like an arrow and is an extremely fast plane especially when you stow those gear.

deuce77

Aero,
Thanks, I already tossed the red spinner and ordered a TruTurn. I am using an Eflight Power 90 to move this thing. The included pilot figures are quite heavy and I am looking around for some lighter ones. What did you power your T-6 with and what was your all up weight? This is not a light airplane and wing loading will be up there no matter the power source. Have the retracts worked out okay? Since you have already flown yours any specifics on set-up would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim

bob418

My Feedback: (4)

Aero

Thanks for the note!

I have got rid of my red spinner and have a tru trun (it's gotta look right!!)

Ijust wieghed mine out and it was jsut at 11 Lbs - so it weighs a lot! Also I just checked my CG for the first time and with my lipos way back it is still nose heavy without the cowl and prop on.

So Iwould be interested in how much your weighs and how it flys with the CG at 70 mm back from the wing tips (about 90 mm at the fusealge. (Where is yours??))

Also with the wing load being so high, Iassume this will be landed at a fast speed - no floating in!

Itoo would love to know what motor you are running (i am running a Power 90 with 8 cell 5000 lipos - which add to my weight

My retracts have taken a little work to get wrking smoothly, but Ithink Igot them right. Did you use the stock hardware that came with the plane?? Particulary the connectors that are used to connect the retracts to the servo wheel. (or did you use something like these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK103&P=SM??

Ihave locktited the crap out of the supply connector screws (they are very small screws)

My star and Bar issue was fixed my covering my red and blue with a little white ultracote, so it looks pretty good!

One last question what are static wicks? Ithink it is the nylon connectors used connect the control surfaces the to clevis??

thanks - I am really looking to fly this bad boy!

Aero Lex

Well, I couldn't give you a concrete figure on the weight now seeing as my aircraft is in another country. ( I'm on vacation) I'm powering it now with a Super Tigre G90. And I must say it's a bit messy due to the invert mount required and the tank being a bit higher than the carb. Though I've figured a solution for it as soon as I get back.

As for the retracts, the many times on the ground and one time in flight I worked them, they worked just fine. I haven't worked them more because some confusion on the instructions I cut one of the main gear just slightly too short. Its just barely long enough to work. And that is a no go. Do you happen to know where I could find some replacements? The m3 pushrods?

As for setup, with my engine weighing in at 765g (including muffler) and a full tank, and all my electronics mounted basically on the center, in the air there was only 1 click of elevator and that was it. It tracked perfectly.


edit:static wicks are the 9 wires coming out of the vertical and horizontal stabilizer. I call them static wicks because on the full sized birds i work on they look exactly like that. They trail off the edges and are for static dissipation into the atmosphere. That may or may not be the name for what thery are on that model, but thats what we refer to them as in my circle.

bob418

My Feedback: (4)

Static Wicks- so that what you call those things!   I am not sure I will put mine on - looks like things that will get snaped off in transport (good old hanger rash!)

I assume you kept your CG at the recommended 70mm from wing tip?

Would love to see pictures!!

deuce77

You could make the "wicks" out of thin flexible wire which would be more scale anyway (see pic) and less likely to get torn off transporting. From what you said about the CG I think I will go to 4200mah packs to save a little up front weight and just deal with the reduced flight times. I have been applying some of the graphics today...they are not the best quality. I did use white ultracote under the stars and bars which helped out...thanks for the warning.

Aero, with your engine and muffler weighing in at 765gms (not including fuel and tank), I figure the electric version will be close to pound heavier. I should have a weight on mine in a few days...I finally got the Eflight Power 90 on Friday. Yes, pics would be great and thanks for the input.
Jim

bob418

My Feedback: (4)

With the decals I learned 3 things (after i had to buy a second set of decals) 
1- I used Windex (a lot) on the fusealge to make the decals go down a little easier!
2- Make sure the decals are full cut on the sheet before you pull them off or they WILL rip - I promise
3- Do NOT let the decal back touch your shirt as it will ruin the decal ( again trust me) - odd stuff I know but it is a lesson learned!

I am getting close to done, it could fly now, once I get the CG right - not sure what I will do to get it less nose heavy (any suggestion - besides adding weight to the back (I could use the rear battery compartment to put extra wiegth in??))   Also I went with a CC Pro BEC and have not mounted it as far back as possible (at leaste get it behind the CG??)  - I would assume it would be ok to extend the power leads from the battery to the BEC to get it moved back to shift weight to the back ???

I also put about 8 screws on each side of the canopy- and it looks GREAT and I am sure the canopy will not come off!!  I will send some picture of the mod (I also but some balsa in the cock pit to hide the screws that came thru while mounting the canopy (but it will look great!!!)

deuce77

If you extend the battery wires to the BEC just use 18ga wire. I am going to leave the little hatch in the aft bottom of the fuse off to help make sure there is plenty of air going through the fuse to cool the battery, the ESC and the BEC. I will have to figure a way to duct air effectively into the fuse. I would ordinarily mount the ESC just behind the motor but to help move the CG aft it will be going in the fuse. (There is some advantage in being a little farther behind in the build!) I have the motor on now and all the servos in except the retract servos which I have not received yet. My Tru-Turn spinner and adaptor also have not come in. Now I have to tackle the cockpit and canopy. I have had very good luck with canopy glue on larger planes so will probably go that route. It is taking on some semblance of a T-6.

Aero Lex

I will say that yes, I didn't alter the CG at all. A note about hanger rash. I noticed that in transport the ventral FIN is easier to have on than the ventral antenna AND fin. The antenna would break off basically every time because you have no way to set the aircraft down. But the fin is mounted in a place where the bottom begins to rise so it's much less susceptible to damage. I also think it adds some degree of stability as well. As for the wicks, I got angry and just pulled them out of the elevator. It's much easier to handle with just the rudder wicks in.

I will post picks in about 15 days when I get back home.

here's a link to a little 10 second clip i took on the maiden. To give you a little idea of how fast it goes, that was slightly below mid stick. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EqGnx4Sb8U

bob418

My Feedback: (4)

Aero Lex

That's what I was going to recommend. Cutting the cowl right behind the prop where the "intake" would be. You would most certainly get your desired cooling effect. And it would also look more realistic. I did the same to aid in cooling of my engine. How long are you talking about extendning the leads? You can make the motor leads a lot longer than you think. Whatever you do, don't extend the battery side leads. They should be shorter than 7" in most cases.

tagore

What a great looking Plane. I have had my eye on this for months, and when I visited my LHS this past weekend and there it was and set of Eflite electric retarcts in stock ..... well I couldn't resist. I have had a brand new OS 91 four stroke looking for a home, and I think it will be a great match. Build was easy, and I was very impressed with the quality... my first seagul kit. Instructions were not as detaild as othe kits, but if you have built a few arf's it shouldne be a problem. but here is the Question?

CG? The plans show the CG being measured 70mm from leading edge at wing tip, and I have ussualy done the CG closer to the base of the wing (were it joins the the midle section on that seam). But that leaves about a 10 mm diference. For those that have flown where are you measureing your CG and is 70mm working? My plane came in at 9.6 pounds with an A123 battery in the back hatch for my reciever and it is right on the cg, if it is measured 70mm from the leading edge back at the tips. If it is 70mm from leading edge at the wing joint then I am tail heavy which I don't want to be for the maiden this comming weekend. Thanks for any help or tips.

Joel

tagore

One more Question. is anyone cutting the front of the cowl below the the prop for air intake... looks like it is open on the real plane and should help with cooling on us nitro guys.

bob418

My Feedback: (4)

Iam thinking of cutting where my pen is at in the picture

bob418

My Feedback: (4)

Just finished mounting my conopy with 16 screws, -looks really good, Iput a 3/16 inch piece of balsa inside my cockpit to hide the screws, (painted black and adds some depth to the cockpit

Just gotta get the CGright and she is ready to fly (also have to trim the aluminum spinner to fit the prop, but should be no big deal!

tagore

Bob that is exactly where I plan to cut out it should help keep things cool when summer finally comes around. also I Like your screws on the canopy I only did 3 per side but I think i will add some more it looks better. I will try to get some pictures up later, but here is a vid I took last night to show the retracts. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmbVieYGHJo

deuce77

I looked at these retracts in our local hobby store just after I bought my plane. Clean and sweet. I did read one review that implied that they might not work well at 4.8 volts but since you are using an A123 they should be just fine. They seem to have less slop than the included kit retracts (currently installed in my plane). If my retract servos (Hitecs) do not come in soon I may have to go back and get the Eflights. I would like to hear your experience on how they work out.

tagore

Thanks so far i am very impressed withthe retracts i have used ai in the past and mechanical this is a real treat. I did however bend the nose wheel steering pin so I have ordered a replacement it looks like it will hold as is, but just a matter of time before it breaks so thought it best to not leat that happen. Slo i cut out the air intake under the prop cut out and it looks nice i will try to get pictures tonight. But in moving things around last night i lost the woodruff key on the engine so i couldnt get the prop to turn the engine over. I Have ordered a replacement and am having it sent overnight. In the mean time I will borrow one out of another engine so that i can test the this engine and get it set for maiden this weekend.. The A123 seam to handle the load but my Volt watch triggers a voltage drop warnning light after I initiate the retracts. I am sure that I am fine as it does not seam to effect any performance, and the red flashing warning light looks cool comming from the cockpit.

deuce77

A123s can put out a lot of current without dropping voltage too much. I and lots of other guys use just two of them to power 40% IMAC planes with no problems, and they can draw a lot of juice. If your set-up is dropping the voltage significantly just by pulling up the retracts I would definitely sort this out before the maiden flight. Have you used an
inline amp meter like the H-9 to see how much current is being drawn by the retracts?

I did read that the steering was a weak point on those retracts.

tagore

I do not have an inline amp meter. and I am more suspisous of the volt watch not being comaptible with the 123's I am checking the battery after use and not seeing any noticable drops but I understand that when they do drop off at the end they drop quickly. My plan is to do some testing on use on the ground and check batery status after 10 minute sessions. Fom what i have read the cutt off should be at 5 volts. This i hope will give me some ideas as i have also heard tht the volt meters are not as reliable for monitoring the 123's be cause of the sudden drop at the end of the battery cycle. Any other experiences you have iwth 123's woudl be appreciated this is my first go with them I picked up two 2300 2 cell 6.6 packs.

bob418

My Feedback: (4)

Tagore -  Thanks for the video!  but I like your stand can you tell me where you got it??

As far as the Nose wheel steering pin - I assume it is the treaded screw that is used to hook up the rod to the funky retract and steering setup (very cool engineering)   So if that is the same part my question is since that is a treaded bolt and the nose wheel is controlled using a plastic control linkage (not sure what to call it)  are you afriad that the steel screw with threads will wear down the plastic control linkage.  Just watch the screw file the nose gear linkage  

Let me know your thoughts on that linkage!