RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Tim,

I did not delineate servo arm length as it is not critical at any surface EXCEPT the flaps.
For the flaps I did designate the servo arm should be as long as you can fit without hitting the wing skin, while mounting the ball link as far out on the arm as possible, thus allowing maximum flap throw.

For all other surfaces, the usual geometry advantage of "as far inward on servo" and "as far out on control surface" is the smart thing to do. I list control throws in the manual.
All controls are quite effective in flight without requiring much throw.

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Hey Thunderbolt fans:

Here are some pictures taken by John Eaton at our 17th annual Wings of Victory at Woodland Davis Aeromodelers July 22 - 24.
The two video snippets are from Jason Keiter... he caught my P-47 playing tag with Scott Rowan's F-18

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxJun...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_pr0...eature=related

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Richard,

Looks like you were having fun! She looks so good in the air. I missed making it this year, my son turned 2 on Saturday and Sunday I was wiped out at the pool with the kids...

Next year they'll all be old enough to bring with me! And I hope to bring a few planes up too

Casey

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

For those who missed it, here is a flight video from Saturday morning, July 23rd:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8i9pTrbO67E

P47Pilot

I am looking forward to experiencing this myself!

wxman2

My Feedback: (52)

Me too.....

DENTO

G-DAY RICHARD
Richard do you mind if I OR OTHERS add to this thread who have a COMPARF P47 There Idears and build photos It would be a carry on from your exellent build of the P47,As I am adding a sliding canopy to mine an have some shots and idears to add,And before I carry on I thought I would get your approvall,If not no problem.[&o]
REGARDS
JOHN

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

G-Day,

BY ALL MEANS, PLEASE DO! This is not MY THREAD, it is a thread to allow builders of, and those interested in, the CARF-Models P-47D to exchange ideas.

We look forward to your input

DENTO

THANKS Richard shall do
REGARDS
JOHN

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

cool, I'd be curious to see how you set up the sliding canopy mechanism and rails myself ...


~V~

DENTO

By all means give some of your idears, I have some shots of the progress,As you shall see you have to cut to slots to carry the rails it is all very tight Bit of a bummer but the slots run parst the rear of the canopy when closed but when every thing is fitted shall add hysol rails at rear also filler and when painted wont be all that notisable must also say that this is all new to me as I have only been back at all this for 4 years after bringing up kid and work so please bear with me I need all the help I can get,6in rams would be fine but they are hard to find, Have found 7-1/2 in at sierra may be able to get away with them.
REGARDS
JOHN

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

is anyone putting lights/lenses on this p-47 ... im wondering if any are available yet from anywhere premoulded or vacum formed ? i guess an alternative would be to take a cast and send it off to get someone to vacuum form some lenses ...


~V~

DENTO

More shots of canopy Rails with tabs,Canopy slides ok,Its a bit tight but I would think back and forth and it shall get better as time goes on.You can see the slot at the back of the canopy that gives the rail clearance to slide but when finished shall fill and a bit of paint and you shall not notice.
REGARDS JOHN

DENTO

Hi Richard
The grub bolt (screw) that you have on the exhaust pipe nut onto the exhaust ring dose it go right threw or act as a grub screw onto the pipe,Hope you get that DRIBBLE.
REGARDS JOHN

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

If my "Australian" serves me correctly, my answer is the 'drub' screw does NOT go all the way through the pipe. It merely acts as a locking stud via friction. Since at any given time, depending upon temperature and gasket integrity, the exhaust flange nut could thread on more or less, making the 'drub' screw go all the way through would not be the right thing to do.

These little locking studs DO seem to keep the exhaust flange nuts tight, at least on the manifold side.

DENTO

THANK YOU Richard thats what I though, Over here its grub, Maybe a double meaning some times,But having said that all depends who you are talking to.
REGARDS JOHN

TJPro351

My Feedback: (8)

Richard,
On the main gear spacers (6mm), did you take a 1mm off of both forward and aft spacer? Will the low end be installed outboard to ensure the gear retracts all the way in the wing? Also, did you "glue" the motor dome on in addition to the bolts? Hope you don't mind all the quesitons, I am sure there will be some more later on
Thanks,
Tim

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

YES, I did take 1mm off both fore and aft spacer. The goal was to make the gear retract all the way into the well such that the gear doors closed completely / flush with wing surface.
I found that if I did not taper the gear spacers, the mains would not go into the wings far enough to allow the gear doors to fit flush.

If you shave off the 1mm, this should not turn into a 'trail and error' process, but production tolerances might possibly create some variance from kit to kit.

Suffice it to say that the WINGS portion of the build are by far the most time intensive and sometimes tedious... it is impossible to get away with no trial and error, so take you time, have fun, and know that when your plane is completed, you will have a proven model that is as tough as the original.

DOME: NO, I did not glue the engine dome. JUST the bolts hold it in place.

btw: I did get your email re: the elevator torque rod and rudder hinge pin interfering. I did not have to deal with this, but inserting the rudder hinge pin in two pieces - from top and bottom - will resolve it. AND NO, this should not create a flutter problem. IF you intend to use the Moki/4 blade prop combo, you will not go fast enough to risk flutter on any surface. A 30x14 set up will give you good scale speed with plenty of WOW factor

TJPro351

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks for the clarafication on the spacers.
The reason I asked you if you glued your dome on is because the dome I receive does not have a lot of "edge" on it. I probably only have a 1/4in from the hole to the edge, not much between screw and edge (see picture). I don't even have to cut away any of the outter edge of dome for the cowl brackets.
I will be installing the Moki 250
Still have not heard from Ray about the elevator/rudder assembly. I guess I am going to have to cut the rudder hinge rod and glue in the ends to it does not fall out.
Thanks for your help.
Tim

TJPro351

My Feedback: (8)

Has anyone else recently received their P-47 and started assembly? I would like to discuss the minor differences between the prototype and the updated version (only assuming it is an updated version) and what you did differently than the instruction manual.

DENTO

HI GUYS
There is a difference with the hing rod on the rudder not that it makes any diff just have to cot first shot is my rear end second from the manual
REGARDS JOHN

TJPro351

My Feedback: (8)

Thats what I did. Cut a small piece for the bottom and cut to length for the top piece. Does your Jet Tronics values look like the ones in the manual. I only have one input/output on each valve and it is called a "brake" valve. I looked at pictures on the CARF website and the Air Supply Kit does show only one input/output. I have no idea how this is going to work. Hoping it is the incorrent values.

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

IF your JETTronics valves have only one input and one output, they are the WRONG VALVES.
I puzzled over this for quite some time before contacting CARF... I thought I was just an IDIOT[X(], but found out that no amount of engineering would have allowed me to use these valves to operate the gear and doors...

Contact your CARF Sale Rep and let them know you received the wrong valves in your pnuematics kit.
Here is a picture of the correct valve.

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Not sure how many of you have noticed yet, BUT the spacing between the cowl and prop is TOO CLOSE for perfect scale outline.
This did not go unnoticed by the designer and was a result of the very tight fit between the Moki valve train and cowl taper. IF the Moki is shifted forward such that the propeller backplate is located far enough in front of the cowl to provide "scale" clearance," the valve train will be hitting the cowl interior. Shifting the entire engine forward is NOT an option.

Only we purists will notice this, BUT I am wondering if anyone out there might know of OR want to take on the project of providing a spacer that bolts between the Moki propeller backplate and the Solo prop hub to get the hub and propeller far enough forward for scale appearance?

TJPro351

My Feedback: (8)

Whew, thanks Richard. I was racking my brain cells trying to figure this out. Did you use seperate channels for the Jet Tronics and slave them to the gear channel? Not there yet but thinking ahead on how to program the radio. I have a 14Mz and I'm sure there is a function or two in there to slave each channel and allow the delay between doors and gear. I do use a 3 second delay for my flaps to go down on my corsair.

I wonder if Darrell could design a spacer behind the Solo Hub.