CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
02-26-2014, 03:56 PM
#2501
You are #1 on the list.
I know you are a patient guy, so I won't even ask. Once we have them done, they will be available in quantity.
So much to do, so little time.
02-26-2014, 07:04 PM
#2505
Next, the baffles. The bottom one will be split.
Here is my stainless steel engine stand-offs. They give you the recommended engine thrust of 2.5 deg right and .05 deg up. Stainless instead of aluminum because we need the weight up front anyway.
I'm trying to figure a way to make a template available to make this easier, but there is some variance plane to plane when the plywood firewalls are glued to the front of the fuse. Maybe I can go off the panel lines somehow. These are consistent. Any ideas?
Here is my stainless steel engine stand-offs. They give you the recommended engine thrust of 2.5 deg right and .05 deg up. Stainless instead of aluminum because we need the weight up front anyway.
I'm trying to figure a way to make a template available to make this easier, but there is some variance plane to plane when the plywood firewalls are glued to the front of the fuse. Maybe I can go off the panel lines somehow. These are consistent. Any ideas?
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 02-26-2014 at 10:16 PM.
02-27-2014, 05:39 AM
#2508
In this age of the ARF, and RTF, I'm doing my part to see that building does not become a lost art. That is why I do these build threads. Usually, if we can think it, we can do it. I don't have fancy tools or a machine shop, just a creative spirit, so I know a lot of guys can do what I do.
I DO want a 3D printer so bad I can taste it. I see huge potential for us scale guys with a tool like that and the knowledge to program it.
The other thing I'm happy about right now is the way RCU is working. After all the problems a few months back, looks like they have things running well. Thank you RCU.
02-27-2014, 07:23 AM
#2509
Gary, here is the wing question I mentioned in the email. The outer flap servo. In the manual, the linkage goes behind the former. The servo mounting plate is set for this, i.e. the servo is too deep. The control horn is inboard too far for the linkage to meet the servo. And, I'm gonna need a very long servo arm to clear the rear wing tube without bending the rod.
I feel like I got a hodge podge build here… its the ARF version, and either my sleep deprived baby brain is missing something, or they dropped the ball. My plan is to put blocks in to raise the servo. I haven't looked at the inner flaps yet, I am just hoping I can use a long servo arm so the geometry on all of them is similar.
The ailerons are hosed as well. The picture shows the control horn going to the towards the top, where there is much more room, the mounting spot is on the lower part of the wing. The cutout in the rear spar and the horn position do not allow me to mount the horn towards the top. I will have to drill out the main spar (which makes me nervous from a strength standpoint) just to prevent binding.
I usually cover threaded rod pushrods with a carbon tube for strength, not sure if I will have room to do it in the wing….
Oh, and all the pushrods were not even remotely the right length. They are all different lengths, but none of them will work…. weird.
Anyone else experience this? and did you address it differently than I plan to?
Thanks
I feel like I got a hodge podge build here… its the ARF version, and either my sleep deprived baby brain is missing something, or they dropped the ball. My plan is to put blocks in to raise the servo. I haven't looked at the inner flaps yet, I am just hoping I can use a long servo arm so the geometry on all of them is similar.
The ailerons are hosed as well. The picture shows the control horn going to the towards the top, where there is much more room, the mounting spot is on the lower part of the wing. The cutout in the rear spar and the horn position do not allow me to mount the horn towards the top. I will have to drill out the main spar (which makes me nervous from a strength standpoint) just to prevent binding.
I usually cover threaded rod pushrods with a carbon tube for strength, not sure if I will have room to do it in the wing….
Oh, and all the pushrods were not even remotely the right length. They are all different lengths, but none of them will work…. weird.
Anyone else experience this? and did you address it differently than I plan to?
Thanks
02-27-2014, 08:20 AM
#2510
Gary, here is the wing question I mentioned in the email. The outer flap servo. In the manual, the linkage goes behind the former. The servo mounting plate is set for this, i.e. the servo is too deep. The control horn is inboard too far for the linkage to meet the servo. And, I'm gonna need a very long servo arm to clear the rear wing tube without bending the rod.
I feel like I got a hodge podge build here… its the ARF version, and either my sleep deprived baby brain is missing something, or they dropped the ball. My plan is to put blocks in to raise the servo. I haven't looked at the inner flaps yet, I am just hoping I can use a long servo arm so the geometry on all of them is similar.
The ailerons are hosed as well. The picture shows the control horn going to the towards the top, where there is much more room, the mounting spot is on the lower part of the wing. The cutout in the rear spar and the horn position do not allow me to mount the horn towards the top. I will have to drill out the main spar (which makes me nervous from a strength standpoint) just to prevent binding.
I usually cover threaded rod pushrods with a carbon tube for strength, not sure if I will have room to do it in the wing….
Oh, and all the pushrods were not even remotely the right length. They are all different lengths, but none of them will work…. weird.
Anyone else experience this? and did you address it differently than I plan to?
Thanks
I feel like I got a hodge podge build here… its the ARF version, and either my sleep deprived baby brain is missing something, or they dropped the ball. My plan is to put blocks in to raise the servo. I haven't looked at the inner flaps yet, I am just hoping I can use a long servo arm so the geometry on all of them is similar.
The ailerons are hosed as well. The picture shows the control horn going to the towards the top, where there is much more room, the mounting spot is on the lower part of the wing. The cutout in the rear spar and the horn position do not allow me to mount the horn towards the top. I will have to drill out the main spar (which makes me nervous from a strength standpoint) just to prevent binding.
I usually cover threaded rod pushrods with a carbon tube for strength, not sure if I will have room to do it in the wing….
Oh, and all the pushrods were not even remotely the right length. They are all different lengths, but none of them will work…. weird.
Anyone else experience this? and did you address it differently than I plan to?
Thanks
Gary
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 02-27-2014 at 08:25 AM.
02-27-2014, 10:39 AM
#2512
Nothing. I spent more time than I should have putting tracers out, did a craigslist reward ad, talked to the police several times(who were surprisingly helpful) Unfortunately, I bet it ended up in a dumpster. Still stinging from that, and feel bad that all of Michael Radu's hard work got wasted like that. One the positive side, I have really enjoyed starting from square one. Didn't think I would, I have never tried to build a scale model.
02-27-2014, 11:20 AM
#2513
So sad Mike. I felt the same way about all Micheal's wonderful work. I know it was a labor of love for him. Glad though you see a bright side to it all. I sensed you were enjoying all this. Something to be very proud of as well, in this age of assemblers.
Well, back to work. :-)
Well, back to work. :-)
02-27-2014, 03:38 PM
#2515
The outer panel.
Another builder had started this work and hacked this part up. Brian made this servo plate and recessed it in the hole and it actually works pretty good. He had installed another fixture for a second wing bolt, not realizing that the servo went there. Besides, one bolt is plenty. Most guys have none and rely on the cap screws in the tubes.
Another builder had started this work and hacked this part up. Brian made this servo plate and recessed it in the hole and it actually works pretty good. He had installed another fixture for a second wing bolt, not realizing that the servo went there. Besides, one bolt is plenty. Most guys have none and rely on the cap screws in the tubes.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 02-27-2014 at 04:12 PM.
02-27-2014, 04:37 PM
#2518
How about some baffles? I found out this is easier with half the cowl off. For the one at 6 O'clock, I glued the one half in, then removed the cowl half, reassembled it off the plane, and glued the other side in. very easy. Now I will add the gussets in the back and Hysol it all, then the black paint.
02-27-2014, 07:22 PM
#2522
Hysol with micro balloons on the front so it is smooth, and Hysol with my Steel Powder in the back for weight and strength, after the gussets were installed.
A total of 2lb 9oz for the cowl, most of which is in the front where you want it.
A total of 2lb 9oz for the cowl, most of which is in the front where you want it.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 02-27-2014 at 07:42 PM.
02-27-2014, 07:24 PM
#2523
Yes, it is slated to go to Top Gun and be flown by Dino DiGorgeo but in Pro Am Pro, no static scoring. Not going crazy scale on it, but she does have the gun system, all the lights, will have a nice cockpit with some surprises, and some nice external detail. He has a second CARF Corsair entry, being built by a talented builder in Florida, near his home, They plan to enter it in Unlimited, and that one will be static judged.
We plan to maiden this one at a war bird event in NC in April.
Got to get this and the P-47 done, and then it is on to our own Meister Zero, which will also be built for competition. Hope to be able to fly that at Dino's event in October. If not, she will go to Toledo and then Top Gun in 2015.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 02-27-2014 at 07:48 PM.
