CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
03-10-2014, 09:29 AM
#2576
OK Gary, no luck. The clamps were exactly where you showed. I experimented moving them up and down a smudge and it had a dramatic effect…i.e. it wouldn't cycle unless it was within a 1/16th of where you showed. I shaved the scissor bracket a little where it was hitting the frame, may have helped a hair. Can you tell me if the strut should be closer to the mount than you see here? I also took a pic with the front part 3mm off the wood rail, still wouldn't be close to being in the well. I am either missing something, or the gear is screwed up.
I don't know if I need to send it back to sierra??? There is no way the gear is remotely getting under those gear doors the way it is now.
I don't know if I need to send it back to sierra??? There is no way the gear is remotely getting under those gear doors the way it is now.
03-10-2014, 10:37 AM
#2577
A note from someone who scratch builds, and I know I will be shunned for this, but when you say you are "heavy into a build', this is an ARF. You are assembling a plane,not building one. It's a shame that now days buying a pre built plane is considered building, and yes, I can send/show pictures of my B-25, D-18, and wingspan B-17, with full interiors, rivets, working doors, door handles, etc. Nothing personal about this plane, or the guys, it's just the state of the hobby anymore.
Brad, You win, you have a bigger johnson than all of us short bus riding ARF "assemblers." Do you feel better about yourself now? If not, maybe go kick a few puppies? If you have looked at any of this thread, Gary has done a some pretty impressive fabrication. Did you ever consider what the ARF concept has done for our hobby? More people doing it means more options, lower prices and better technology. It also enables some of us to own the planes of our dreams without spending time we don't have gluing wood together. Lighten up buddy, and maybe share some of your building knowledge instead of criticizing.
03-10-2014, 02:46 PM
#2578
A little background. I have been building model planes since I was 12. I am now 60. I built my first RC model in 1968, along with my first radio, a Heathkit 6 ch. Been building ever since, from scratch to ARF and everything in between. I love it all and wish I had more time to spend with it. God, family, and work still get the larger piece of the pie, and always will I suspect. Still, I do what I can to build for myself and help others to realize their goals in the hobby as well.
Brad, I will admit, I once had a similar attitude when these true ARFs (the CARF is not) began to flood the market because I saw it affecting building supplies. The LHS does what it needs to do to survive. Some have not. We once had 4 thriving hobby shops in a 2 mile radius. We are down to one, the oldest, and it is doing fine. And what they no longer carry, I can easily get on line these days, usually for less. So I'm over my little rant about the ARF and I have accepted it and even the guys who do nothing more than assemble and fly the foamies. I have some myself.
I like the larger numbers in the clubs, the attention and appreciation my airplanes get from some of these guys, and the fact that many of these guys are simply using the ARF as a stepping stone to more complex airplanes. Either way, I consider anyone who has a passion for this hobby in any form my hobby brother.
Keep building Brad, and feel free to share if you like. Post a linc to a warbird build right here if you like. I have learned much of what I know from other builders. I welcome new ideas, and constructive criticism. I got some of that in another thread when I attempted to make a gun sight for a P-47. It looked good enough to me, but another modeler thought the cross hairs were way to thick and model looking. I had to agree and it inspired me to start over and make a much better one that became part of what turned out to be an award winning airplane. Sometimes we need that second opinion.
Now, back to "building". Mike, here are a couple more shots I got for you. I confirmed that your gear is normal looking. It will not close against the housing. Here is a picture of that (hard to get when the gear is installed), but I think you can still see it. Look closely and you can see a pretty good gap between the housing and the strut. Can't get a measurement without taking the gear out.
Also, on this model, the door literally touches the strut when it is all the way shut. It is that tight. Here is a picture of that.
Also on this plane, Brian needed to grind the saddle of the spar, where the strut rests when retracted, just a little. Only on the right gear. The left was fine, but both do touch the spar when they are retracted.
Brad, I will admit, I once had a similar attitude when these true ARFs (the CARF is not) began to flood the market because I saw it affecting building supplies. The LHS does what it needs to do to survive. Some have not. We once had 4 thriving hobby shops in a 2 mile radius. We are down to one, the oldest, and it is doing fine. And what they no longer carry, I can easily get on line these days, usually for less. So I'm over my little rant about the ARF and I have accepted it and even the guys who do nothing more than assemble and fly the foamies. I have some myself.
I like the larger numbers in the clubs, the attention and appreciation my airplanes get from some of these guys, and the fact that many of these guys are simply using the ARF as a stepping stone to more complex airplanes. Either way, I consider anyone who has a passion for this hobby in any form my hobby brother.
Keep building Brad, and feel free to share if you like. Post a linc to a warbird build right here if you like. I have learned much of what I know from other builders. I welcome new ideas, and constructive criticism. I got some of that in another thread when I attempted to make a gun sight for a P-47. It looked good enough to me, but another modeler thought the cross hairs were way to thick and model looking. I had to agree and it inspired me to start over and make a much better one that became part of what turned out to be an award winning airplane. Sometimes we need that second opinion.
Now, back to "building". Mike, here are a couple more shots I got for you. I confirmed that your gear is normal looking. It will not close against the housing. Here is a picture of that (hard to get when the gear is installed), but I think you can still see it. Look closely and you can see a pretty good gap between the housing and the strut. Can't get a measurement without taking the gear out.
Also, on this model, the door literally touches the strut when it is all the way shut. It is that tight. Here is a picture of that.
Also on this plane, Brian needed to grind the saddle of the spar, where the strut rests when retracted, just a little. Only on the right gear. The left was fine, but both do touch the spar when they are retracted.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-10-2014 at 05:00 PM.
03-10-2014, 05:08 PM
#2579
Progress guys. Here is preview of my new aluminum panel. This is laser cut. The bezels will be machined from aluminum as well. The one is displayed backwards but they are the same on both sides. This will augment the Dynamic Balsa cockpit kit nicely.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-10-2014 at 05:10 PM.
03-11-2014, 03:31 AM
#2580
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To Gary and all those others who've contributed to this thread, thank you. Been quietly following this thread for a long time, and if you guys don't qualify as builders, then I don't have a proper definition of what a builder is. Of course, calling any version of this plane an "arf" is somewhat questionable, what with all that still needs done. Anyway, keep it up and don't feed the trolls, lol.
03-11-2014, 01:53 PM
#2582
Glad the cowl came in good order and that to like it.
Yes, their panel will fit. It is the correct size if it is what they advertise. the scale is off because that size is actually 1/4.5 scale, what the CARF happens to be. My panel is the same size.
Hope you find some time to do some work on her and share with us.
Yes, their panel will fit. It is the correct size if it is what they advertise. the scale is off because that size is actually 1/4.5 scale, what the CARF happens to be. My panel is the same size.
Hope you find some time to do some work on her and share with us.
03-11-2014, 01:56 PM
#2583
To Gary and all those others who've contributed to this thread, thank you. Been quietly following this thread for a long time, and if you guys don't qualify as builders, then I don't have a proper definition of what a builder is. Of course, calling any version of this plane an "arf" is somewhat questionable, what with all that still needs done. Anyway, keep it up and don't feed the trolls, lol.
03-11-2014, 04:01 PM
#2584
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Hi Gary,
I consider myself a builder. I drew my first plans 45 years ago, and had a 'galloping ghost' radio set, which was a scary thing. I have had a plane I built at Top Gun and another invited to participate. You most certainly are a skilled builder. More than that, you have gone out of your way to help many others graciously answering questions and posting countless photos. I have been an RCU member for many years. I believe your thread is the most enjoyable I have ever read. I have read each post from post #1.
Thank you for your service to your fellow modelers and lovers of scale airplanes.
Respectfully
Greg Anixter
Scottsdale, AZ
I consider myself a builder. I drew my first plans 45 years ago, and had a 'galloping ghost' radio set, which was a scary thing. I have had a plane I built at Top Gun and another invited to participate. You most certainly are a skilled builder. More than that, you have gone out of your way to help many others graciously answering questions and posting countless photos. I have been an RCU member for many years. I believe your thread is the most enjoyable I have ever read. I have read each post from post #1.
Thank you for your service to your fellow modelers and lovers of scale airplanes.
Respectfully
Greg Anixter
Scottsdale, AZ
03-12-2014, 02:31 AM
#2585
Hi Gary,
I consider myself a builder. I drew my first plans 45 years ago, and had a 'galloping ghost' radio set, which was a scary thing. I have had a plane I built at Top Gun and another invited to participate. You most certainly are a skilled builder. More than that, you have gone out of your way to help many others graciously answering questions and posting countless photos. I have been an RCU member for many years. I believe your thread is the most enjoyable I have ever read. I have read each post from post #1.
Thank you for your service to your fellow modelers and lovers of scale airplanes.
Respectfully
Greg Anixter
Scottsdale, AZ
I consider myself a builder. I drew my first plans 45 years ago, and had a 'galloping ghost' radio set, which was a scary thing. I have had a plane I built at Top Gun and another invited to participate. You most certainly are a skilled builder. More than that, you have gone out of your way to help many others graciously answering questions and posting countless photos. I have been an RCU member for many years. I believe your thread is the most enjoyable I have ever read. I have read each post from post #1.
Thank you for your service to your fellow modelers and lovers of scale airplanes.
Respectfully
Greg Anixter
Scottsdale, AZ
sincerely
Gary Prince
03-15-2014, 02:04 PM
#2586
We are sending Big Hog's gear back to down & Locked for some updates. Gave me a chance to get some pictures of the gear and the strut cover.
First, hear is a shot of the gear fully retracted. See the gap between the frame and the scissor.
Here is the mounting system for the front cover.
First, hear is a shot of the gear fully retracted. See the gap between the frame and the scissor.
Here is the mounting system for the front cover.
03-15-2014, 02:08 PM
#2587
Here is the newly updated wing fold mechanism. As most of you know, this was the first set that Down & Locked did. Mitch retrofitted this set with the new, more powerful motor and larger gauge jack screw. Mitch recomends no more than 6.6V (A123) for this new motor. It is very powerful.
03-15-2014, 07:27 PM
#2590
Here is the sliding canopy after it has been mounted. 1/4 square brass with 3/16 running inside, with a ball link machined into the 3/16 tube. This set up allows for a very free moving drive system.
The rear mount is a 4/40 bolt with a lock nut running in the tube. I drill a small hole at the back of the tube so I can get the nut in the tube. Remove the two nuts on the front mounts and simply slide the canopy all the way back so the bolts come out of the rails and the canopy is off.
The rear mount is a 4/40 bolt with a lock nut running in the tube. I drill a small hole at the back of the tube so I can get the nut in the tube. Remove the two nuts on the front mounts and simply slide the canopy all the way back so the bolts come out of the rails and the canopy is off.
03-15-2014, 07:31 PM
#2591
The drive will be electric. Down and locked is working on my design now. It will use a motor on each side. The motor will be stationary and the jack screw will run inside the 3/16" tube with a threaded fixture attached to the front on that tube.
03-15-2014, 07:35 PM
#2592
The fit is pretty good so far.
I tape up the inside for a couple reasons. I will be painting the inside of the frame black, and I am grinding and cutting screws on the inside, and if you don't protect the clear plastic it gets pitted by the hot grinding dust.
I tape up the inside for a couple reasons. I will be painting the inside of the frame black, and I am grinding and cutting screws on the inside, and if you don't protect the clear plastic it gets pitted by the hot grinding dust.
03-15-2014, 07:41 PM
#2593
I did this canopy different than in the past. I used the clear plastic as the closing guide this time, instead of adding plywood to the inside of the rear section. It is thin and more scale size. I cut the canopy apart first this time, taped the slider over the clear plastic, and marked the clear 1/8 past the frame in the front. Cutting it there made a nice lip for closing. This lip will be covered with aluminum foil before painting, as will the rest of the outside of the frame, like the front section is.
Couple more things to do and it is back on the cockpit.
Couple more things to do and it is back on the cockpit.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-15-2014 at 07:52 PM.
03-15-2014, 09:04 PM
#2594
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Gary,
I might have missed this earlier but are you taking this plane to Top Gun?
Is this your plane or are you building it for someone?
It looks great. I have been following before you took second at Top Gun with your Corsair and the changes you have made are amazing to watch.
Keith
I might have missed this earlier but are you taking this plane to Top Gun?
Is this your plane or are you building it for someone?
It looks great. I have been following before you took second at Top Gun with your Corsair and the changes you have made are amazing to watch.
Keith
03-15-2014, 11:51 PM
#2595
Gary,
I might have missed this earlier but are you taking this plane to Top Gun?
Is this your plane or are you building it for someone?
It looks great. I have been following before you took second at Top Gun with your Corsair and the changes you have made are amazing to watch.
Keith
I might have missed this earlier but are you taking this plane to Top Gun?
Is this your plane or are you building it for someone?
It looks great. I have been following before you took second at Top Gun with your Corsair and the changes you have made are amazing to watch.
Keith
This one is for a customer. The owner offered it to a pilot at Top Gun who was looking for a mount in a second class this year. It looks like he will not need it. Still, he will maiden it in just under a month at an event in NC. Could be flown there next year by the owner himself.
I plan to fly my P-47 Zombie at this years Top Gun. You can see a picture of it in any magazine containing an ad for this years Toledo Show. It is the P-47 in that ad.
Looking forward to getting my 118" Zero on the build table soon, build thread included of course.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-15-2014 at 11:54 PM.
03-16-2014, 05:09 AM
#2599
Scale-like gap because of the parallel front canopy rails on this model. No flexing of the canopy because of this, as in the full scale.
My canopy kit will now include: all (4) rails, rear connecting hardware, front connecting hardware, drive tubes with the ball links machined in, and the aluminum doublers for along the bottom of the slider, and the wood wedges to create the parallel rails in the front, and I think I will also include all the hardware to attach the clear plastic to the slider. This is an important part of the process.
Once done, I would also like to offer the electric drive system as well. Not sure of the retail cost on that just yet. This electric system will work on any aircraft of this type.
My canopy kit will now include: all (4) rails, rear connecting hardware, front connecting hardware, drive tubes with the ball links machined in, and the aluminum doublers for along the bottom of the slider, and the wood wedges to create the parallel rails in the front, and I think I will also include all the hardware to attach the clear plastic to the slider. This is an important part of the process.
Once done, I would also like to offer the electric drive system as well. Not sure of the retail cost on that just yet. This electric system will work on any aircraft of this type.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-16-2014 at 05:19 AM.
03-16-2014, 08:55 PM
#2600
Another look at the switching install. I like to use the fuselage fuel tank lines for the hatch. Again, I make a latch out of the fuel cap. Underneath this one hatch is everything I need for the fuselage and radio. On one panel is the fuel dot, ignition switch, and fuel pump switch. Then there are switches for the lights, power canopy, the soft switch for the RX, and a switch / charging jack for each RX battery. Also I have a port to install a binding plug, or data log. Still room for things like smoke pump switch.
