vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Hi guys,
I'm in some serious trouble...

I'm replacing air cyl in ESM retract, but there's no diagram or pic in the instruction manual... just WORDS and I am a little dyslectic (really) []

1) there is one cylinder-pin in the original setup. There are 2 cylinders on the new actuator (?) one is for a diferent retract setup or what? It doesn't say anything about this in the instructions

2) in the instructions, it says something about installing the "cyl/ pin" in the middle of the threaded rod, WHY? when open, it should be on one end & and when closed it should be on the other end, right?

Can anyone who has done that help me please? A picture is 1000 words, pic of the finished install would be a BIG help.

I'm sweating bullets

Thanks in advance for any help,
V.

Dash7ATP

Vasec,

While I'm not familar with this installiation, it appears you are installing an electric modiofication to your air system. If so, the "Pins" are a part of the worm dirve system. It appears they have included two different pins , one would not be used. Pick the one that fits your retract . Starting with the pin in the middle with the retract in the half up/half down position (electrically) is apparently the default start position for the electronics.

Ihope this helps.

Dash.

Dash7ATP

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Hey G!

Dash has it nailed.

Mike sends two cam pins due to the general nature of the actuator's applications in differing manufacturere's retract assy's. Choose the pin that fits the slot cut into the sides of your retract assy the best.
Also due to the nature of the retro-fit design there are no limit switches on the actuators and they sense the end points points and when to shut down the same way they sense a jam or stoppage. They may be "smart" as well; meaning they learn the endpoints on the first several cyclings so they anticipate the ends and shutdown at the first sign of excess load at those points rather than allowing a longer stall condition to trigger the overcurrent protection to kick in.

Anyway, positioning the pin in the halfway position on the shaft allows the assy to start-up and go the rest of the way up or down the first time without trying to start up and immediately stalling because the actuator started trying to move to the (U/D) position and and the retract was already locked in that position at assembly.

Have you already slotted the far side of the ESM cam so the threaded drive shaft clears when in the down position?

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks guys, I do appreciate you help!

One more thing, (the actuator) which side is up? Is it like I show on the first pic or is it shown up side down?

Lee, the part about filing of the trunion I did understand from the instructions.

Thanks, V.

P.S. if there were a little sketch/ pic in the instructions, it would have been much easier for me (just sayin')

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Don't think it much matters as far as rightside up or upside down. I would put it in whichever way had the drive gear shaft best aligned with the slot for the cam pin or the least offset.

I wasn't doubting your abilities on the cam/trunion...just didn't look at the paperwork before forwarding them to you Didn't know how comprehensive they were.

You are right...a simple pic can be so enlightening where even a 1000 words can still leave you scratching your head[&:]

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Well, the cam will align with the trunion in either case. It's just that the casing protrudes more to one side and I'm afraid it could be in the way of the oleo once retracted. I asked Mike from Wingspan which side is up, hopefully I will have the answer soon. I'm going to do a image search to see what I come up with.

Cheers. V.

da Rock

The case turns the screw to move the pin right? It screws it one way to extend and the other way to retract. So your casing rotates the rod to make things work.

Think about that and then consider that there is no difference between the screw turning while the casing can't compared to the casing turning while the screw doesn't. OK, then is there any reason that rotating the casing would matter about the way things work? Nope since rotating is how it works. So look at the casing setup with one side as the "top". Rotate the casing 180degrees EITHER WAY and what you considered to be the top is now the bottom right? And did anything really change about how it's going to work now? Nope? Nope.

Set it up so nothing binds and that ought to be good to go.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

I got one done, everything looks OK except one little problem:

When I put the trunion pin (cam) back in the retract, there's nothing to prevent it from sliding out on either side. There's no circlip or any other means of holding it in, it's just a straight smooth cylinder. On the other retract which I left as is for now, the trunion pin (cam) stays put, but I can't figure out what's holding it in place. Any thoughts?

da Rock

That's pretty amazing. What held it in place as it came from the mfg? It hadn't fallen out in the original configuration had it?

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Found it! there is a tiny little wormscrew deep inside a small hole on the trunion shaft. I missed it. There's no flatspot on the pin, so i'll locktight everyting.

I can do the other one now, activate the cycle, cut off the extra lenght of the threaded shaft & I'm done. It wasn't as bad as it seemed, but if a picture or a simple schematic would have been provided with the Wingspan conversion actuators it would have been a snap

Thanks to all & dR, I've appreciated your help,
Vasek