TF FW190 GIANT ARF
#1951
Kwik,
I don't think the air retracts from robart use the same retract mechanism as the electrics do. From the pictures I have seen of the air retracts , the use a single offset linkage from the air cylinder. Unless they changed the design a second housing won't help as it did with my electric units. I think there are pictures of both types earlier in this thread.
See post #1826 on page 74 of this thread top of the page. You will see a pic of the air units to see what I'm saying.
I don't think the air retracts from robart use the same retract mechanism as the electrics do. From the pictures I have seen of the air retracts , the use a single offset linkage from the air cylinder. Unless they changed the design a second housing won't help as it did with my electric units. I think there are pictures of both types earlier in this thread.
See post #1826 on page 74 of this thread top of the page. You will see a pic of the air units to see what I'm saying.
I sendt this mail to Robart regarding their gear for this plane;
Hello,
I am considering buying Pneumatic main Retracts for Top Flite Fw-190 Giant ARF, and tail gear.
Part no TFFW190
But first;
I have noticed that if I want spare parts for this gear, I cannot buy them in your web-shop ( Which I can for other gears).
Therefore this mail;
I need to buy part no FW107A for both left and right gear.
This is Item no 2.3 here;
http://www.robart.com/catalog/secure...TFFW190SPM.PDF
I need these parts together with the gear because I know from a friend that without putting these in as extras,
so that I get two in each gear, then the cam pin will bend, even when turning the plane quite slowly on the ground.
Can you help?
Hello,
I am considering buying Pneumatic main Retracts for Top Flite Fw-190 Giant ARF, and tail gear.
Part no TFFW190
But first;
I have noticed that if I want spare parts for this gear, I cannot buy them in your web-shop ( Which I can for other gears).
Therefore this mail;
I need to buy part no FW107A for both left and right gear.
This is Item no 2.3 here;
http://www.robart.com/catalog/secure...TFFW190SPM.PDF
I need these parts together with the gear because I know from a friend that without putting these in as extras,
so that I get two in each gear, then the cam pin will bend, even when turning the plane quite slowly on the ground.
Can you help?
Last edited by Tommy_Gun; 08-25-2013 at 08:28 PM.
#1952
Well, the friend I mentioned show'ed me the bendt pin after a turn on the ground.
He had two pins , but one was just unused.
We inspected the unit. There are even screw holes for an extra plastic guidance block. You can see the holes just under
the numbers 2.2 and arrow here;
http://www.robart.com/catalog/secure...TFFW190SPM.PDF
He had two pins , but one was just unused.
We inspected the unit. There are even screw holes for an extra plastic guidance block. You can see the holes just under
the numbers 2.2 and arrow here;
http://www.robart.com/catalog/secure...TFFW190SPM.PDF
Last edited by kwik; 08-25-2013 at 09:09 PM.
#1953
Kwik, see this drwing from robarts site and I think you'll see what I mean.
If you have dual drive pins on air retracts, then they changed the design without updating the online drawing.
http://www.robart.com/catalog/secure...W190%20DIM.PDF
If you have dual drive pins on air retracts, then they changed the design without updating the online drawing.
http://www.robart.com/catalog/secure...W190%20DIM.PDF
Well, the friend I mentioned show'ed me the bendt pin after a turn on the ground.
He had two pins , but one was just unused.
We inspected the unit. There are even screw holes for an extra plastic guidance block. You can see the holes just under
the numbers 2.2 and arrow here;
http://www.robart.com/catalog/secure...TFFW190SPM.PDF
He had two pins , but one was just unused.
We inspected the unit. There are even screw holes for an extra plastic guidance block. You can see the holes just under
the numbers 2.2 and arrow here;
http://www.robart.com/catalog/secure...TFFW190SPM.PDF
#1954
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Canadian in Central Texas TX
Posts: 2,601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Kwik, see this drwing from robarts site and I think you'll see what I mean.
If you have dual drive pins on air retracts, then they changed the design without updating the online drawing.
http://www.robart.com/catalog/secure...W190%20DIM.PDF
If you have dual drive pins on air retracts, then they changed the design without updating the online drawing.
http://www.robart.com/catalog/secure...W190%20DIM.PDF
#1956
#1959
My Feedback: (1)
I talked to Darrell at Sierra when I was at Warbirds and Classics over the Midwest. He does not have any plans to build drop in gear for this plane, and the offset nature of the gear does not allow any others to be dropped in easily. The tail wheel retract from Sierra can be mounted (as shown earlier in this thread). The cost for air or electric is pretty close once you add in for the air valve, tank, etc. $34 cheaper for the air mains, but it will cost you more than that for a large deluxe air kit. I'm going with Air powered Robart mains and the Sierra tail wheel.
The Sierra tail wheel will retract lower than the Robart version and give the plane the proper scale stance, and make it a bit easier to handle on the ground as well.
By the way, Robart was at the event as well. The TF FW-190 retracts are distributed exclusively by Great Planes, and cannot be purchased directly from Robart.
The Sierra tail wheel will retract lower than the Robart version and give the plane the proper scale stance, and make it a bit easier to handle on the ground as well.
By the way, Robart was at the event as well. The TF FW-190 retracts are distributed exclusively by Great Planes, and cannot be purchased directly from Robart.
#1961
I will go for Robart electric mains and tail.
This will be my everyday warbird, hopefully with as little problems as possible on a warbird.
This way I will get more flying-time. I hope.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCHVL&P=ML
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCHVN&P=M
Not very scale, but good enough for an ARF;
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCKGH&P=M
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXET16&P=M
This will be my everyday warbird, hopefully with as little problems as possible on a warbird.
This way I will get more flying-time. I hope.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCHVL&P=ML
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCHVN&P=M
Not very scale, but good enough for an ARF;
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCKGH&P=M
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXET16&P=M
Last edited by kwik; 08-27-2013 at 09:40 AM.
#1963
Good luck with the electric option kwik. I know I can make the air retracts reliable, but the electrics option has promised to be trouble free for years but so far seems to have difficulty delivering. I noticed that the electric retracts are out of stock at Tower Hobbies.
But all they get, is replacing one set of problems with another. Leaks in air-systems can very often be fixed with a rattle can of silicone spray.
An electric problem isnt that easy to solve.
I did however observe a friend with the Fw-190 electric Robarts on a warbird-meet this weekend, and it worked okay.
But yes, I am still a sceptic.
hehe.
I havent clicked "order" yet, since it isnt due before beginning of sept. But I don't want to order the pneumatic ones without the extra blocks. Need to be able to turn on the ground at least at slow rolling speed. Robart has not answered my mail on that, and my guess is that I will be ignored. One of my friends has been ignored on this matter for several weeks.
If they cannot sell the gear because they must go via Tower/Great planes, then my guess is they wont sell spares either. And when you bend that pin, all is lost.
I did order the electric tail-wheel, though.
Last edited by kwik; 08-27-2013 at 11:28 AM.
#1966
My Feedback: (51)
I talked to Darrell at Sierra when I was at Warbirds and Classics over the Midwest. He does not have any plans to build drop in gear for this plane, and the offset nature of the gear does not allow any others to be dropped in easily. The tail wheel retract from Sierra can be mounted (as shown earlier in this thread). The cost for air or electric is pretty close once you add in for the air valve, tank, etc. $34 cheaper for the air mains, but it will cost you more than that for a large deluxe air kit. I'm going with Air powered Robart mains and the Sierra tail wheel.
The Sierra tail wheel will retract lower than the Robart version and give the plane the proper scale stance, and make it a bit easier to handle on the ground as well.
By the way, Robart was at the event as well. The TF FW-190 retracts are distributed exclusively by Great Planes, and cannot be purchased directly from Robart.
The Sierra tail wheel will retract lower than the Robart version and give the plane the proper scale stance, and make it a bit easier to handle on the ground as well.
By the way, Robart was at the event as well. The TF FW-190 retracts are distributed exclusively by Great Planes, and cannot be purchased directly from Robart.
Were you the other "Todd Davis" at the event in FDL? Was that great flying weather or what!!!
#1968
Could you post couple pics of the retract mechanism of your air retracts?
Yes, I know what you mean. Many has the belief that if they go electric, all problems are solved.
But all they get, is replacing one set of problems with another. Leaks in air-systems can very often be fixed with a rattle can of silicone spray.
An electric problem isnt that easy to solve.
I did however observe a friend with the Fw-190 electric Robarts on a warbird-meet this weekend, and it worked okay.
But yes, I am still a sceptic.
hehe.
I havent clicked "order" yet, since it isnt due before beginning of sept. But I don't want to order the pneumatic ones without the extra blocks. Need to be able to turn on the ground at least at slow rolling speed. Robart has not answered my mail on that, and my guess is that I will be ignored. One of my friends has been ignored on this matter for several weeks.
If they cannot sell the gear because they must go via Tower/Great planes, then my guess is they wont sell spares either. And when you bend that pin, all is lost.
I did order the electric tail-wheel, though.
But all they get, is replacing one set of problems with another. Leaks in air-systems can very often be fixed with a rattle can of silicone spray.
An electric problem isnt that easy to solve.
I did however observe a friend with the Fw-190 electric Robarts on a warbird-meet this weekend, and it worked okay.
But yes, I am still a sceptic.
hehe.
I havent clicked "order" yet, since it isnt due before beginning of sept. But I don't want to order the pneumatic ones without the extra blocks. Need to be able to turn on the ground at least at slow rolling speed. Robart has not answered my mail on that, and my guess is that I will be ignored. One of my friends has been ignored on this matter for several weeks.
If they cannot sell the gear because they must go via Tower/Great planes, then my guess is they wont sell spares either. And when you bend that pin, all is lost.
I did order the electric tail-wheel, though.
#1969
My Feedback: (1)
Hey Todd, yes I was the other Todd at the event. The weather was spectacular for Warbirds and Classics and Owatonna the week before. You don't see days like that too often.
I'm putting together two of them this winter, one for me and one for a buddy so we can do some formation squadron flying. I will do some work on mine to make it look better, for now everything will be on top of the MonoKote. Looking at the cowl I plan on making a cutout on the bottom edge lip to provide a bit more direct air input to the head of the engine. I'll then block out much of the upper inlet to direct the air where I want it. It will not be very visible on the ground and unoticable in the air. Plenty of airflow makes a happy engine.
Here's a photo of the FW-190 pitted next to me at the event. It seemed to fly well and looked good in the air.
I'm putting together two of them this winter, one for me and one for a buddy so we can do some formation squadron flying. I will do some work on mine to make it look better, for now everything will be on top of the MonoKote. Looking at the cowl I plan on making a cutout on the bottom edge lip to provide a bit more direct air input to the head of the engine. I'll then block out much of the upper inlet to direct the air where I want it. It will not be very visible on the ground and unoticable in the air. Plenty of airflow makes a happy engine.
Here's a photo of the FW-190 pitted next to me at the event. It seemed to fly well and looked good in the air.
#1970
My Feedback: (18)
Put 6 flights on the 190 today, hot humid day here in Seattle, unusual weather for us. The plane was sluggish. Pulled the three bladed prop and went to a 23x10, still sluggish. One of the guys at the field had the top flite mustang with the same engine and a 23x12 thin prop... it was a rocket ship.
So now I have speed envy. Has anyone put a DLE 85 in the wulf?
So now I have speed envy. Has anyone put a DLE 85 in the wulf?
#1971
My Feedback: (15)
The electric retracts from the big buys are actually behind technology of the smaller ones seen in eflight lighter planes.
The ones being offered from Robart still need a separate e-board cost over $100 for control. Without this the linear moving part of the drive shaft simply rotates endlessly. ESM started out the same way, now with version 3.5; they have the need for an eboard eliminated.
I suggested to Robart to evaluate Firgelli Linear servos, they are made for standard RC connection, very powerful and compact and do not need a separate eboard. I am sure Firgelli would custom make the size /length if needed forcertain gear.
I use there servos now for all larger scale canopy movement and will trying one of their units on a Robart tail wheel. At first I purchased the epower unit used by Robart, but it’s totally useless without the $100+ control board.Otherwise you have to know how to build a stop /start eboard in order to get the electric drive units to start, stop and reverse.
As far as electric and reliability, the smaller companies 90 and size offerings are at the point that you set and forget. I have used them in planes 15lbs and under and swear I will never use air again, electric is simply too easy, very scale and always always reliable.
In fact , FMS an epo warbird supplier and leader in that segment has released retracts for there P51 and P40 that can easily handle the Gold Edition line of Top Flight 65" planes , and the cost is under $100 with struts . I used them in my P40 with zero issues .
The ones being offered from Robart still need a separate e-board cost over $100 for control. Without this the linear moving part of the drive shaft simply rotates endlessly. ESM started out the same way, now with version 3.5; they have the need for an eboard eliminated.
I suggested to Robart to evaluate Firgelli Linear servos, they are made for standard RC connection, very powerful and compact and do not need a separate eboard. I am sure Firgelli would custom make the size /length if needed forcertain gear.
I use there servos now for all larger scale canopy movement and will trying one of their units on a Robart tail wheel. At first I purchased the epower unit used by Robart, but it’s totally useless without the $100+ control board.Otherwise you have to know how to build a stop /start eboard in order to get the electric drive units to start, stop and reverse.
As far as electric and reliability, the smaller companies 90 and size offerings are at the point that you set and forget. I have used them in planes 15lbs and under and swear I will never use air again, electric is simply too easy, very scale and always always reliable.
In fact , FMS an epo warbird supplier and leader in that segment has released retracts for there P51 and P40 that can easily handle the Gold Edition line of Top Flight 65" planes , and the cost is under $100 with struts . I used them in my P40 with zero issues .
Last edited by LDM; 09-02-2013 at 06:25 PM.
#1972
My Feedback: (124)
I am sorry if this is already covered in this thread but I have a question about installing the Robart 160 mechanical tailwheel. I got mine to fit by hacking away at the airframe but I cannot get it to completely retract in the up position. I don't really want to hack away anymore material in the back of the fuse. Does the tailwheel have to retract fully up into the fuse or can it just go up a little? I have never used mechanical retracts.
#1973
I am sorry if this is already covered in this thread but I have a question about installing the Robart 160 mechanical tailwheel. I got mine to fit by hacking away at the airframe but I cannot get it to completely retract in the up position. I don't really want to hack away anymore material in the back of the fuse. Does the tailwheel have to retract fully up into the fuse or can it just go up a little? I have never used mechanical retracts.