TF FW190 GIANT ARF
#2226
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On a different note just started the assembly of my Top-Flight FW-190. Not to exotic on changing it up. I originally thought about stripping the mononcoat off and glassing it but decided to just get it built and up in the air.
The information in this thread has been extremely helpful in some decisions that left me on the fence. It is a straight foward installation of the recommended DLE-55 & Robart Gear (I might regret but was already purchased).
A couple of small bling items a nice set of 5 1/4 190 wheels from Sierra. I did some shopping and best value buy in my opinion if you want an aluminum wheel (Fairly Heavy though). The Williams Bros wheel is a good option also. I also went with a Iflytaliies instrument panel. Nice product that requires some modifications but when complete seems worth the efforts. I would not recommend for this plane getting the side panels. I cannot see how they can be implemented into the cockpit and look better than the provided ABS panels. I will paint and use as much of the 3D printed assessories as possible, but the panels would require a tremondous amount of effort for this plane in my estimation. A small note the Instrument Panel kit does require some triming of about 1/2" on the sides to fit properly with the Top Flight Side panels. You only loose one instrument or the Tank Selector switch depending on your desire. I chose to keep the instrument. Here is a pic.
Z
The information in this thread has been extremely helpful in some decisions that left me on the fence. It is a straight foward installation of the recommended DLE-55 & Robart Gear (I might regret but was already purchased).
A couple of small bling items a nice set of 5 1/4 190 wheels from Sierra. I did some shopping and best value buy in my opinion if you want an aluminum wheel (Fairly Heavy though). The Williams Bros wheel is a good option also. I also went with a Iflytaliies instrument panel. Nice product that requires some modifications but when complete seems worth the efforts. I would not recommend for this plane getting the side panels. I cannot see how they can be implemented into the cockpit and look better than the provided ABS panels. I will paint and use as much of the 3D printed assessories as possible, but the panels would require a tremondous amount of effort for this plane in my estimation. A small note the Instrument Panel kit does require some triming of about 1/2" on the sides to fit properly with the Top Flight Side panels. You only loose one instrument or the Tank Selector switch depending on your desire. I chose to keep the instrument. Here is a pic.
Z
#2227
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...and I'll sit on the fence waiting for someone to give the nod to something that will drop straight it yet be strong enough to be up to the task.
I hate this - spent a fortune getting my hands on one of these, yet I'm not confident at all on putting any of the landing gear in it that has been discussed to date.
By the sounds of everything I've read so far in this thread, the Sierras are strong (and more 'scale') but require a fair bit of wing-mod to get them in... the Robart's slot straight in, but aren't strong enough to withstand a slightly duffed landing.
Plus we're now reading reports of who genuinely is a Robart poster and who isn't.
I guess mine will just have to sit there a while longer until I can get some reliable & easy-to-fit LG.
Or... try to build something from scratch to do the job. But there's no plans out there...and I really don't want to spend a year trying to reverse-engineer a set of bloody wheels...
This kind of thing should have been sorted a long time ago by TF and those supplying the landing gear IMHO. Bit of a joke, really...
BJ
I hate this - spent a fortune getting my hands on one of these, yet I'm not confident at all on putting any of the landing gear in it that has been discussed to date.
By the sounds of everything I've read so far in this thread, the Sierras are strong (and more 'scale') but require a fair bit of wing-mod to get them in... the Robart's slot straight in, but aren't strong enough to withstand a slightly duffed landing.
Plus we're now reading reports of who genuinely is a Robart poster and who isn't.
I guess mine will just have to sit there a while longer until I can get some reliable & easy-to-fit LG.
Or... try to build something from scratch to do the job. But there's no plans out there...and I really don't want to spend a year trying to reverse-engineer a set of bloody wheels...
This kind of thing should have been sorted a long time ago by TF and those supplying the landing gear IMHO. Bit of a joke, really...
BJ
The question remains if you have a set of Electrics weather you have an older set with the weaker Trunion Cam Pins or Improved ones, and from what I am getting out of this, that if you have Pnuematic Gear that no problems should be expected from Trunions made with the softer pins, because apparently it was only on Electric Sets.
None of this is related to the malfuntions people are having with Electric Sets not deploying or retracting, that is an issue with the electronic control module.
It would be nice to get a reply on this from Joe or Robarts if what I have said is correct; this is just how I have been interpreting it. I have a new Pnuematic Set and I will run them as is, and if the pin fails with normal use or minor mishap, I now know how to upgrade them to beef them up.
Last edited by dasintex; 10-14-2013 at 08:45 AM.
#2228
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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Thanks Das.
I suppose the next question is 'how do you know if you're getting Ver1 or Ver2 of the electrics?'.
I'm sure that those who are stocking the original 'weaker' version will still want to offload them onto customers (?)
BJ
I suppose the next question is 'how do you know if you're getting Ver1 or Ver2 of the electrics?'.
I'm sure that those who are stocking the original 'weaker' version will still want to offload them onto customers (?)
BJ
#2230
Join Date: Jun 2009
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#2235
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Glue isn't that expensive...
I flew 5 great flights yesterday... on the last flight of the day I noticed the right-side landing gear wouldn't retract into the wing all the way. I thought maybe I had broken the cam-lock. It was a good flight and even a dozen CubScouts humping the hills behind Lake Irvine stopped to cheer the low passes.
When I got home I pulled the cover off the landing gear area, removed the retracts, and saw that the inboard mount was no longer attached to the support rib. It was easily "floating" up and down. I was shocked to see that there was no glue residue on the rib or the mount plate.
I masked off the holes and worked some T88 epoxy into the space between the mount and the rib as best I could and liberally applied more in the area (fillets in gaps and was continually astonished to the lack of glue).
This is not a rant... but... I bought an expensive ARF with the belief that I was getting a product built in a fashion I couldn't have achieved myself. What I found was a model riddled with issues (frozen ailerons out of the box - too much glue hidden by the covering, cracked tail wheel mounting plate/wood, cowl mount blind nuts glued closed, crack in the firewall (next to the lead plate/weight, etc). I knew I wasn't going to get support from Hobbico as they wouldn't help with the out of the box issues and a friend of mine with a TF GS Spit and P40 wasn't getting any help either. Reminds me of a saying: If you buy a diamond for 10cents, you just bought a diamond not worth 10cents.
When I got home I pulled the cover off the landing gear area, removed the retracts, and saw that the inboard mount was no longer attached to the support rib. It was easily "floating" up and down. I was shocked to see that there was no glue residue on the rib or the mount plate.
I masked off the holes and worked some T88 epoxy into the space between the mount and the rib as best I could and liberally applied more in the area (fillets in gaps and was continually astonished to the lack of glue).
This is not a rant... but... I bought an expensive ARF with the belief that I was getting a product built in a fashion I couldn't have achieved myself. What I found was a model riddled with issues (frozen ailerons out of the box - too much glue hidden by the covering, cracked tail wheel mounting plate/wood, cowl mount blind nuts glued closed, crack in the firewall (next to the lead plate/weight, etc). I knew I wasn't going to get support from Hobbico as they wouldn't help with the out of the box issues and a friend of mine with a TF GS Spit and P40 wasn't getting any help either. Reminds me of a saying: If you buy a diamond for 10cents, you just bought a diamond not worth 10cents.
#2236
Join Date: Jun 2009
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You should take a wander over to the ESM 50cc Corsair thread - heaps of "no glue where it should be" issues in the central section of the 3-piece wing.
A few of the Lad's have been having the entire top skin warping
I had a closer look at my Corsair wing section, and I can see the same problem/s - there's glue there, but not where it should be i.e. on the wood, but not forming a fillet.
From what you've experienced, it looks like I'll have to be vigilant of Top Flite's gluing process too now...
Not something I'd have expected - given that TF stuff is rather expensive. I bought it thinking I was getting top quality - looks like the times they are a changing?
BJ
A few of the Lad's have been having the entire top skin warping
I had a closer look at my Corsair wing section, and I can see the same problem/s - there's glue there, but not where it should be i.e. on the wood, but not forming a fillet.
From what you've experienced, it looks like I'll have to be vigilant of Top Flite's gluing process too now...
Not something I'd have expected - given that TF stuff is rather expensive. I bought it thinking I was getting top quality - looks like the times they are a changing?
BJ
Last edited by BJ64; 10-21-2013 at 06:41 PM.
#2237
I have 8 flights on mine now. Pretty happy with it so far.
But;
The landing gear mount; I noticed that TF is using the same Arf-ish buisquit stuff that everyone else is using.
Probably we are saving the rainforest by not using the good old beams made of that hard reddish stuff, what's it called again?
So, in the name of the forest, better soak the bisquit area with thin-as-possible super-glue. Turn it into glass, I say!
But;
The landing gear mount; I noticed that TF is using the same Arf-ish buisquit stuff that everyone else is using.
Probably we are saving the rainforest by not using the good old beams made of that hard reddish stuff, what's it called again?
So, in the name of the forest, better soak the bisquit area with thin-as-possible super-glue. Turn it into glass, I say!
#2238
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Just wondering about the emblems on the one I'm doing maybe kwik or ta-152 might know if the eagle and the Mickey mouse are on both sides of the fuse or is just the eagle on both sides or are they just on the one side?I'm thinking the eagle on both sides and Mickey on the one side..
Last edited by SteveD-RCU; 10-22-2013 at 05:43 PM.
#2239
That is a good question.
You could have a look here;
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/in...howtopic=36539
But there will be no answer, I am afraid, unless you find the film they talk about. As I am sure you know, most picture you find in the books, like the Osprey series, are still pictures from films that exist in some archive somewhere. But to find them .......and be able to watch them.....
I just made the decision that at some point, they switched from Eagle up front, to Not Eagle. On both sides.
I am probably wrong, as happens many times, when one tries to apply logic.....
You could have a look here;
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/in...howtopic=36539
But there will be no answer, I am afraid, unless you find the film they talk about. As I am sure you know, most picture you find in the books, like the Osprey series, are still pictures from films that exist in some archive somewhere. But to find them .......and be able to watch them.....
I just made the decision that at some point, they switched from Eagle up front, to Not Eagle. On both sides.
I am probably wrong, as happens many times, when one tries to apply logic.....
Last edited by kwik; 10-22-2013 at 08:05 AM.
#2242
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Saint Charles, IL
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Version 2 trunions use set screws instead of the standard slit strut clamp with cap screw. There was a very small batch of replacement part trunions we shipped that were not to spec. These customers have been handled directly. Inventory at our distributors will be accurate and of the best quality. There should be no concern with anything you buy. As I stated earlier, some customers have developed their own method of reinforcing their gear with a second plastic housing block but I have not tried it so cant comment. At this time, I think there is 2 or 3 people who have attempted this modification out of the all the gear we have sold.
#2245
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Version 2 trunions use set screws instead of the standard slit strut clamp with cap screw. There was a very small batch of replacement part trunions we shipped that were not to spec. These customers have been handled directly. Inventory at our distributors will be accurate and of the best quality. There should be no concern with anything you buy. As I stated earlier, some customers have developed their own method of reinforcing their gear with a second plastic housing block but I have not tried it so cant comment. At this time, I think there is 2 or 3 people who have attempted this modification out of the all the gear we have sold.
How do I go about ensuring that the ones I order will be the latest and greatest?
i.e. will the re-sellers be quoting what version they are selling?
BJ
#2246
Join Date: Apr 2012
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NO RETRACTS WERE SOLD TO DISTRIBUTORS THAT WERE OF A LESSER QUALITY. ANYTHING THEY HAVE AVAILABLE FOR SALE IS FULLY FUNCTIONAL AND WHAT THE PLANE WAS DEVELOPED AND TESTED WITH.
#2248
[QUOTE=robart-joe;11648311]There is no way to tell. Any new electric trunions will be set screw style and are in stock and available for purchase if you want. Let me say it again, any gear that was shipped was 100% tested and in perfect working order. The only defect we had was a replacement parts order to 2 or 3 customers that had landed hard or crashed and needed to completely replace their trunions.
This is BS.
As described in my previous postings, the units were too weak to withstand the side loads imposed by sudden directional change at the end of a normal rollout upon landing! Only AFTER I purchased and installed the extra housing for each unit was the resistance to bending the pins on the trunions greatly reduced.
This is BS.
As described in my previous postings, the units were too weak to withstand the side loads imposed by sudden directional change at the end of a normal rollout upon landing! Only AFTER I purchased and installed the extra housing for each unit was the resistance to bending the pins on the trunions greatly reduced.
#2249
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I posted this on 10-11-2013. Not sure who robart-joe is but I don't buy what he is selling.
I talked to Eric at Robart today on the phone. He said there are no trunion mods or upgrades being done on the FW-190 electric retracts. I told him about Joe and this thread so he went and asked somebody else at Robart and they confirmed there is no trunion upgrade being done. Eric said the only mod or upgrade that is being done is by the modelers by adding the second cam block.
I talked to Eric at Robart today on the phone. He said there are no trunion mods or upgrades being done on the FW-190 electric retracts. I told him about Joe and this thread so he went and asked somebody else at Robart and they confirmed there is no trunion upgrade being done. Eric said the only mod or upgrade that is being done is by the modelers by adding the second cam block.
#2250
I posted this on 10-11-2013. Not sure who robart-joe is but I don't buy what he is selling.
I talked to Eric at Robart today on the phone. He said there are no trunion mods or upgrades being done on the FW-190 electric retracts. I told him about Joe and this thread so he went and asked somebody else at Robart and they confirmed there is no trunion upgrade being done. Eric said the only mod or upgrade that is being done is by the modelers by adding the second cam block.
I talked to Eric at Robart today on the phone. He said there are no trunion mods or upgrades being done on the FW-190 electric retracts. I told him about Joe and this thread so he went and asked somebody else at Robart and they confirmed there is no trunion upgrade being done. Eric said the only mod or upgrade that is being done is by the modelers by adding the second cam block.