spitfire66

I decided to go with dual servos and built a new tray. I also added extra ply in some areas as the ribs were all trash. I’m not sure if it was humidity and then going to a dry climate that cracked everything, but they were bad. Everything is now fixed.

spitfire66

I a



i added an aluminum rod for the dowels that’s go all the way thru the spar. Ribs were then repaired and I added a floor to the box. A battery, receiver 2, and Robart controller will go in here. This will eliminate 7 connections to the fuse. 4 gear door, 2 bomb drops, 1 retract. Flaps and ailerons will go to primary receiver.

spitfire66

carbon fiber and plywood added to retract areas. Carbon fiber also added to leading edge to prevent split from wing inlets outboard. Carbon fiber added to firewall and pinned firewall with screws. Carbon fiber added to gear doors. They are very strong and rigid.

spitfire66

Hysol was also added to every area possible. I was careful not to add much weight, but everything I did was to address known weak areas. Landing gear will be mounted with 10-24 nylon so they shear in a crash to prevent destroying the wing. This has worked well in my top flite p51. That airplane has a known weak wing and I’ve never had to repair it, but have replaced the nylon bolts. I’m using Robart electric on this one. More to follow in a month or so.



this is the only 32oz fuel tank I found to fit without mod. I did not want to cut anything up

Wyoturbine

The doors and structural reinforcement mods look great Shannon! Can’t wait to see her fly!

heirmeistr

My Feedback: (2)

I have had lots of issues with my Robart electric retracts and I’m thinking of converting them to air.

spitfire66

The electric retracts were cheap enough, that when I bought them on sale from horizon it was cheaper to buy and convert them to pneumatic than just buying pneumatic. I’ll see how it goes. I also own a second set for Corsair 2 that are pneumatic

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Now that I've seen the picture of the Sullivan tank you intend to use, I understand what you meant about the right shape to for the Corsair. Strongly recommend you use the clapper clunk I made for you last Summer. It will prevent the clunk from sticking in the forward position.

heirmeistr

My Feedback: (2)

I like what you did with the carbon fiber and would like to do the same when I build my second Corsair but I don't have any carbon fiber. Where did you purchase yours and more importantly, what weight and type of cloth did you use?
Thanks.

spitfire66

I purchased 4oz carbon fiber off of eBay. I could have probably went with 6oz, but this was my first time using carbon fiber and I didn’t know what expect. 6 oz fiberglass is a little more rigid than 4 oz and I thought it might be hard to work around curves and tight spaces where I was working. 4 oz should be plenty strong enough for the gear doors and center section. I used z-poxy which worked great along with a heat gun to make everything flow and settle evenly. It worked perfectly.

BE Aware of the need to tape your stuff well with painters tape. The first set of gear doors had epoxy get under the tape to the point where they need to be sanded and repainted. I have 2 corsairs, the second in which I was going to strip sand and repaint anyway, so I grabbed the second set and was more careful with taping. Once the epoxy was partially set up, I removed the tape and removed anything that seeped through the tape with denatured alcohol. I’m happy with the new doors. They are very strong. I plan to do the same thing with carbon fiber on the inside of the sliding canopy to prevent it from bowing out in flight as some have mentioned was a problem. I think if the canopy is more rigid the rails should take care of the rest. Carbon fiber link below. I’m not sure if it’s a good deal or not, but good enough. On to other things.


https://www.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderD...=2366949137002

spitfire66

By the way, Mein Duff your Corsair looks incredible! I love the birdcage and the early corsairs. I wish you many years of great flying! If you can post a video! I’m sure everyone on here would love to see it.

heirmeistr

My Feedback: (2)

Have you thought of using thin G10 to stiffen the canopy frame or gear doors? I just ordered some from Frank Taino Enterprise

spitfire66

I think the only way to make the g10 work would be to heat it, which I think would take more heat than the canopy and gear doors you would be mating it to. It most definitely can be done, and my friend suggested it, but I had the carbon fiber on hand and it worked very well. It is stiff enough (I think) to prevent it from breaking. I don’t think the canopy will take much to hold its shape and prevent Boeing in flight. Again the G 10 will work but I think it’s heavier and harder to work with than what would be needed for those particular spots. For the doors it may work pretty well but like I said what I have was easy and will work.

Fly2XS

My Feedback: (65)

Great work Eric!
I see you filled in the step on the right flap to bring it back from the F4U-1D to the F4U-1! Nice!
Will you add squadron markings?

For the maiden, take-off without flaps and let her get up to speed before rotating. You'll get the feel for roll and pitch sensitivity quickly, If your CG is right you'll have no problems.
It looks like you have a great field without obstructions so practicing approaches should not be a problem. I did my first landing without flaps and flew it to the runway. No flair. The next flight I did a high approach and deployed flaps during the dropping turn to final. I kept up the airspeed by pointing the nose down and levelling just before landing. This eliminated any ballooning while dropping the flaps and ensured adequate airspeed to landing.

I have (5) Corsairs of this scale and I want to bash one to a F4U-1 Birdcage. Would you be interested in offering Birdcage canopies?
Thanks!
Scott

spitfire66

So what is the general consensus on the gear door hinges? Robart or sonic tronics per the manual? The sonic tronics seem wimpy but if they work they work.

spitfire66

Did anyone else modify their springs in the struts? Mine are very stiff and the apex of the wheel is touching the back of the gear door box on retraction. I'm thinking about taking a 1/4" off and see if it helps. I would like to soften them up and see if I can prevent them from extending so far. I haven't wrapped my head around it quite yet on how to prevent full extension. I am hoping I don't have to trim much more of the gear door box frame. The gear doors are working out ok. They've been a real pain, but I think I have it figured out now.

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

the oleo needs to be sprung to carry the wt of the model. that's one strut needs to carry the entire wt of the model. so on a big plane they will be pretty stiff.

Joe

chorner

You can adjust the maximum length of the strut extension by compressing the strut, then re-tightening the guide-hinge. I had to do this on mine, as the wheels would rub and get caught up on the fiberglass of the wheel well. I also took a Dremel with a sanding bit and sanded out just a very small circular shape to match the circumference of the wheel where it was rubbing just to be extra-cautious while out flying it didn't get hung up. If you do it right, you won't be able to see that with your gear doors closed.

spitfire66

Thanks chorner , I did everything like you and others said. No problems now and they are operating well. I am still working on the doors. Work and great weather is getting in the way. I’m very happy that I was able to fly Wednesday and Thursday. Now I’m maintaining other planes. Maybe next week I’ll get back to it.

heirmeistr

My Feedback: (2)

I have been having problems with my tail wheel when I taxi. I discovered the problem. The control horn is press fitted to the collar which has a set screw but the two should act as one. The press fitting can and in my case did come loose making it very difficult to steer the plane. I am going to have the two welded together so they act as one. I hope the video helps. Guess I can’t load the video from my iPhone. May have to load it to YouTube first. Stand by.

heirmeistr

My Feedback: (2)

I have a second or replacement tailwheel and I see it was spot welded at the trouble spot. This must have been something they were made aware of in the early batches.

DUCMOZ

Hi all, I am looking for a left outer wing for 60cc Corsair. if anyone has one for sale, please let me know. Thank you.

behzad

Aero D

Hello Behzad, sadly I totaled my H9 Corsair 2 weeks ago, the tree jumped right out in front of me. Unfortunately neither of the wings, the center section, nor the fuselage survived. However, I do have a bunch of other parts and duplicates in good condition that I was just about to post for sale.
I'm still assembling the inventory and the pictures. But I know I have 2 cowls, 2 windshields/canopys, 2 screw on antennas, 1 screw on pedo tube, full set of Robart pneumatic gear including tail gear, a full pilot figure with a servo that controls his head movement and lots of other misc plastic parts in really good condition.

Let me know if you're interested.

DUCMOZ

Hi Aero D, thanks for the reply. From the time I built this thing I didn’t. Like it but have been flying it as I love the Saito and the sound of it. Today wind got it and i ran it to the fence post on the ground on the left side. The tail retract and the wing got damaged. So if your tail retract unit is not damaged. I would be interested. Also, are your cowls new?

‘’thank you.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

I'd love a spare cowl, windshield/canopy set, and if you have them main gear doors