New Hangar 9 P-51 60cc
03-27-2015, 06:22 PM
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sjhanc,
My name is Kevin Kimball. Kallin, aka kalzone, is my son. Kal is a 3rd generation modeler as well as a 3rd generation full scale pilot and 3rd generation full scale aircraft mechanic/restoration specialist here at my company Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc. For those who may not have heard of us, we created and build the full scale Pitts Model 12, Python, Beast, Viking, stearmans, staggerwings, Wedell Williams replicas, and Gee Bee Z replica to mention a few. The talented crew we have here includes engineers, artists, machinists, woodworking specialists and fabricators all of which are RC modelers too. This makes for a great group to draw on for skills and experience on projects such as Kal's P51 and the electric H9 corsair before it. While Kal did all the work on this P51 himself, he did have full access to all these talented individuals and our full shop while building it. At a young 23 years of age, Kal has spent most of his life in the shop working with us and now has become a key part of our staff here. Below, I have responded to your post so that you and others reading this post can better understand the detailed preparation and thought that has gone into the build of this P51 and what we believe to be the challenges before us.
I watched your video. I have on board video of my plane flying also. In one of the videos I had a camera pointed at a GPS speed app in an old smartphone showing 114mph, compared to that your plane is much faster.
You are correct. We have a radar gun and have clocked the airplane at just under 140mph on the pass in the video.
Also, I noticed a high level of vibration come in at full throttle.
Actually, the vibration is not throttle position related nor RPM related. The telemetry data we have matches what we see in the video which is that the vibration is speed related not rpm related. We have data showing max rpm as less than max speed with no vibration. In the video posted, max rpm is reached several seconds before the distortion appears in the video.
You need to fix that.
Agreed. We are in the process of narrowing down the root cause. On the same pass, we at max speed, we have frames from a ground video that show the leading edge of the inner gear doors (wheel doors) hanging down. On a 3/4 throttle pass, they are not. We are clearly exceeding the speed rating of the doors as designed and they are opening. This may be a contributor to the distortion in the video. This is but one item we are looking at.
When mine was vibrating I tried all kinds of prop and spinner balancing but couldn't solve it. After the sixth flight I detected excess bearing play in the motor. The cause probably wasn't the same problem you have. Try running the motor without anything on the front and look for shaft run-out. If that's OK take an old prop and cut both blades off and balance the remaining hub, then put the spinner back-plate and prop hub on tight and run that up. If you can feel ANY vibration in the nose of the plane it will get worse when you put the spinner cone on and run it. As soon as you detect any vibration reduce throttle and check every thing.
Each of the 4 prop blades have been balanced to less than 0.1 grams of each other. That's within 0.0035 ounces of each other. The full prop assembly was then balanced with the blade locations marked. The spinner, prop adapter and prop were all balanced to near perfection as an assembly. The blades track perfectly. We used to manufacture certified wooden propellers here and are quite familiar with how to track blades and balance props.
Don't get in the plane of rotation when testing. Spinners can get thrown off with lethal force.
As noted above, we build custom airplanes and restore vintage airplanes. We know where to stand with respect to rotating props and spinners.
I found that moving the prop driver around until it ran smooth solve my bugs. When you get one part to run smooth at full throttle put index marks on the shaft, prop driver and back plate and go to the next part. Don't install a full propeller until the spinner cone can take full throttle and you can't feel any vibration in the nose of the plane. Since its electric you can do this stuff at home and it won't disturb the neighbors. My motor picked up several hundred rpm this way. The index marks will insure it is all in the right place each time you assemble the front end. Also put your prop on a flat surface and measure the tips for the same distance to the flat surface. Propeller and Rotor mechanics call this blade tracking, it needs to be the same for both tips. Since you are using the Varioprop it should be balanced pretty good, mine was.
This can be a useful thing to do. We often dynamically balance props on the engine on full scale airplanes. Reindexing the prop or spinner can help in some cases. Most cannot be reindexed yet the Russian engine we use on the Model 12 can have the prop on 6 positions on the flange. Dead bugs and grass stains can affect full scale prop balance and the same is true for RC model props.
You have to take into consideration that all the precision stuff we buy is built by people who don't give a crap how smooth it runs. Spinner manufacturers excepted, the Dave Brown and TRU-TURN spinners have always run smooth for me.
Manufacturing tolerances are what they are and are most often cumulative. And you get what you pay for in many cases. This is a TRU-TURN spinner that we purchased with no prop cuts. We cut the 4 slots precisely on our mill with an indexing fixture and then balanced the spinner after that. The spinner and backplate are marked for proper indexing when assembled just as with full scale spinners.
Good luck with your plane, your experience and others having good results with the H-9 Mustang has convinced me to get one too.
Thank you for the well wishes. The airplane is quite nice. However, being airplane builders as we are, we find things to do to each model we build to make it unique or special in some way. We have truly enjoyed the challenges of converting the hangar 9 P51 to electric power just as we enjoyed doing the same to the H9 corsair before it. This airplane is flying far faster than it was ever intended to fly. Pushing the design envelope is always an unknown. We have a test plan in place to methodically work through the speed related harmonics we are experiencing. Not having a pilot's butt in the plane or being able to fly close chase in another plane next to it makes it a bit more of a challenge to solve. But, we will get there and we will surely let you guys know what we find.
Also, I have read of some flyers having problems with the Landing gear door closing. My experience with this is that the plane has accelerated to a high enough speed that air load over comes the servo power. When a servo is stalled this way current draw is excessive. Keep it slow until the doors close. The full scale Mustang could lose its wings if flown too fast with the gear down.
The aerodynamic loads on the gear and gear doors are stalling the gear before it is fully retracted. This we know. We have experience with this is full scale airplanes which is why airplanes have max gear extension speeds and airplane like a Beech Staggerwing must remain under 90 mph until the gear is up or it will pop the breaker on the gear retract motor. This gear is not servo driven as it is designed with electric linear actuators on the main gear. We are setting up a test now to be able to measure the voltage and current draw when the gear is intentionally prevented from full retracting into the wing so that we can try and identify if a voltage drop or current limiter setting in the gear control module may be an issue. This airplane is accelerating so fast on take off that it is difficult to get the gear up in time. For now, the work around is to take off, get some altitude the get into slow flight with full flaps and very low power, retract the gear, the flaps up and continue.
Rest assured, we are a pretty sharp bunch of guys and we are working through this build methodically. Sure, Kal is 23 and like most kids, wants to go fast right out of the gate. He knows better having been part of over 120 first flights and test flight programs here on full scale airplanes we have built. thank you again for your input on this project as well as all those in this forum who contribute positively to this model and others. We will continue to do our part to support others who are building and flying this Hangar 9 offering.
My name is Kevin Kimball. Kallin, aka kalzone, is my son. Kal is a 3rd generation modeler as well as a 3rd generation full scale pilot and 3rd generation full scale aircraft mechanic/restoration specialist here at my company Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc. For those who may not have heard of us, we created and build the full scale Pitts Model 12, Python, Beast, Viking, stearmans, staggerwings, Wedell Williams replicas, and Gee Bee Z replica to mention a few. The talented crew we have here includes engineers, artists, machinists, woodworking specialists and fabricators all of which are RC modelers too. This makes for a great group to draw on for skills and experience on projects such as Kal's P51 and the electric H9 corsair before it. While Kal did all the work on this P51 himself, he did have full access to all these talented individuals and our full shop while building it. At a young 23 years of age, Kal has spent most of his life in the shop working with us and now has become a key part of our staff here. Below, I have responded to your post so that you and others reading this post can better understand the detailed preparation and thought that has gone into the build of this P51 and what we believe to be the challenges before us.
I watched your video. I have on board video of my plane flying also. In one of the videos I had a camera pointed at a GPS speed app in an old smartphone showing 114mph, compared to that your plane is much faster.
You are correct. We have a radar gun and have clocked the airplane at just under 140mph on the pass in the video.
Also, I noticed a high level of vibration come in at full throttle.
Actually, the vibration is not throttle position related nor RPM related. The telemetry data we have matches what we see in the video which is that the vibration is speed related not rpm related. We have data showing max rpm as less than max speed with no vibration. In the video posted, max rpm is reached several seconds before the distortion appears in the video.
You need to fix that.
Agreed. We are in the process of narrowing down the root cause. On the same pass, we at max speed, we have frames from a ground video that show the leading edge of the inner gear doors (wheel doors) hanging down. On a 3/4 throttle pass, they are not. We are clearly exceeding the speed rating of the doors as designed and they are opening. This may be a contributor to the distortion in the video. This is but one item we are looking at.
When mine was vibrating I tried all kinds of prop and spinner balancing but couldn't solve it. After the sixth flight I detected excess bearing play in the motor. The cause probably wasn't the same problem you have. Try running the motor without anything on the front and look for shaft run-out. If that's OK take an old prop and cut both blades off and balance the remaining hub, then put the spinner back-plate and prop hub on tight and run that up. If you can feel ANY vibration in the nose of the plane it will get worse when you put the spinner cone on and run it. As soon as you detect any vibration reduce throttle and check every thing.
Each of the 4 prop blades have been balanced to less than 0.1 grams of each other. That's within 0.0035 ounces of each other. The full prop assembly was then balanced with the blade locations marked. The spinner, prop adapter and prop were all balanced to near perfection as an assembly. The blades track perfectly. We used to manufacture certified wooden propellers here and are quite familiar with how to track blades and balance props.
Don't get in the plane of rotation when testing. Spinners can get thrown off with lethal force.
As noted above, we build custom airplanes and restore vintage airplanes. We know where to stand with respect to rotating props and spinners.
I found that moving the prop driver around until it ran smooth solve my bugs. When you get one part to run smooth at full throttle put index marks on the shaft, prop driver and back plate and go to the next part. Don't install a full propeller until the spinner cone can take full throttle and you can't feel any vibration in the nose of the plane. Since its electric you can do this stuff at home and it won't disturb the neighbors. My motor picked up several hundred rpm this way. The index marks will insure it is all in the right place each time you assemble the front end. Also put your prop on a flat surface and measure the tips for the same distance to the flat surface. Propeller and Rotor mechanics call this blade tracking, it needs to be the same for both tips. Since you are using the Varioprop it should be balanced pretty good, mine was.
This can be a useful thing to do. We often dynamically balance props on the engine on full scale airplanes. Reindexing the prop or spinner can help in some cases. Most cannot be reindexed yet the Russian engine we use on the Model 12 can have the prop on 6 positions on the flange. Dead bugs and grass stains can affect full scale prop balance and the same is true for RC model props.
You have to take into consideration that all the precision stuff we buy is built by people who don't give a crap how smooth it runs. Spinner manufacturers excepted, the Dave Brown and TRU-TURN spinners have always run smooth for me.
Manufacturing tolerances are what they are and are most often cumulative. And you get what you pay for in many cases. This is a TRU-TURN spinner that we purchased with no prop cuts. We cut the 4 slots precisely on our mill with an indexing fixture and then balanced the spinner after that. The spinner and backplate are marked for proper indexing when assembled just as with full scale spinners.
Good luck with your plane, your experience and others having good results with the H-9 Mustang has convinced me to get one too.
Thank you for the well wishes. The airplane is quite nice. However, being airplane builders as we are, we find things to do to each model we build to make it unique or special in some way. We have truly enjoyed the challenges of converting the hangar 9 P51 to electric power just as we enjoyed doing the same to the H9 corsair before it. This airplane is flying far faster than it was ever intended to fly. Pushing the design envelope is always an unknown. We have a test plan in place to methodically work through the speed related harmonics we are experiencing. Not having a pilot's butt in the plane or being able to fly close chase in another plane next to it makes it a bit more of a challenge to solve. But, we will get there and we will surely let you guys know what we find.
Also, I have read of some flyers having problems with the Landing gear door closing. My experience with this is that the plane has accelerated to a high enough speed that air load over comes the servo power. When a servo is stalled this way current draw is excessive. Keep it slow until the doors close. The full scale Mustang could lose its wings if flown too fast with the gear down.
The aerodynamic loads on the gear and gear doors are stalling the gear before it is fully retracted. This we know. We have experience with this is full scale airplanes which is why airplanes have max gear extension speeds and airplane like a Beech Staggerwing must remain under 90 mph until the gear is up or it will pop the breaker on the gear retract motor. This gear is not servo driven as it is designed with electric linear actuators on the main gear. We are setting up a test now to be able to measure the voltage and current draw when the gear is intentionally prevented from full retracting into the wing so that we can try and identify if a voltage drop or current limiter setting in the gear control module may be an issue. This airplane is accelerating so fast on take off that it is difficult to get the gear up in time. For now, the work around is to take off, get some altitude the get into slow flight with full flaps and very low power, retract the gear, the flaps up and continue.
Rest assured, we are a pretty sharp bunch of guys and we are working through this build methodically. Sure, Kal is 23 and like most kids, wants to go fast right out of the gate. He knows better having been part of over 120 first flights and test flight programs here on full scale airplanes we have built. thank you again for your input on this project as well as all those in this forum who contribute positively to this model and others. We will continue to do our part to support others who are building and flying this Hangar 9 offering.
03-27-2015, 08:24 PM
#752
KJKimball,
I hope you understand that my suggestions were meant to be constructive and not criticism of your work on this plane. The several flights I made with on board cameras showed me that I had problems even though it looked good from the ground. I was even able to pinpoint an out of track prop and fix it by carefully sanding the back of the prop hub. Another prop balanced perfectly tip to tip but was out of balance chord-wise. I also get peak rpm soon after beginning acceleration and it takes several seconds for the airframe to catch up. The motor I use is over-revving the Varioprop and I am going to buy the larger 32i version for the H9 Mustang. I was impressed with the flight duration your plane is getting and I think that fact is related to the 8000 series airfoil that H9 selected for the wing gives less drag that the symmetrical foil on the TF Mustang. It should also allow gliding at reduced power, this you can't do with the TF plane. I land mine at 1/2 throttle.
Keep posting data on your plane as it looks like you are on the right track.
I hope you understand that my suggestions were meant to be constructive and not criticism of your work on this plane. The several flights I made with on board cameras showed me that I had problems even though it looked good from the ground. I was even able to pinpoint an out of track prop and fix it by carefully sanding the back of the prop hub. Another prop balanced perfectly tip to tip but was out of balance chord-wise. I also get peak rpm soon after beginning acceleration and it takes several seconds for the airframe to catch up. The motor I use is over-revving the Varioprop and I am going to buy the larger 32i version for the H9 Mustang. I was impressed with the flight duration your plane is getting and I think that fact is related to the 8000 series airfoil that H9 selected for the wing gives less drag that the symmetrical foil on the TF Mustang. It should also allow gliding at reduced power, this you can't do with the TF plane. I land mine at 1/2 throttle.
Keep posting data on your plane as it looks like you are on the right track.
03-28-2015, 04:04 AM
#753
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sjhanc,
No worries. I did not take your words negatively. The intent of my post was to share what we have done thus far or plan to do in testing along with some background on our experience and capability.
The power 360 motor from Eflite has a max rpm of 7000 and higher KV than most other brands of this size. We are running 4 each 5000 mah 6s 30c Eflite packs (2 pairs in series then those series pairs in parallel) to get 10000 mah 12s. We are pulling 140 amps from this 44.4 v setup.
With the prop pitch at 19-20" it is hard to slow down for landing. very little power is carried on approach and is at idle before touchdown.
No worries. I did not take your words negatively. The intent of my post was to share what we have done thus far or plan to do in testing along with some background on our experience and capability.
The power 360 motor from Eflite has a max rpm of 7000 and higher KV than most other brands of this size. We are running 4 each 5000 mah 6s 30c Eflite packs (2 pairs in series then those series pairs in parallel) to get 10000 mah 12s. We are pulling 140 amps from this 44.4 v setup.
With the prop pitch at 19-20" it is hard to slow down for landing. very little power is carried on approach and is at idle before touchdown.
03-28-2015, 09:23 AM
#754
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All:
Going to be purchasing either this P-51 or the Top Flite P-51. Couple of questions about this P-51.
1. Are air retracts available yet? If so who (Robart, Sierra)
2. I have read the thread and now am trying to figure out what engine is best? I have an EME-60 with onboard starter, will this work?
3. Is there anyone in the Denver, Colorado area that has one these that I may come and take a look? I am in Denver on business for about 6 weeks and would like to see one first hand.
I can be reached via cell at 817-471-9050
Thanks in advance
Glenn
Going to be purchasing either this P-51 or the Top Flite P-51. Couple of questions about this P-51.
1. Are air retracts available yet? If so who (Robart, Sierra)
2. I have read the thread and now am trying to figure out what engine is best? I have an EME-60 with onboard starter, will this work?
3. Is there anyone in the Denver, Colorado area that has one these that I may come and take a look? I am in Denver on business for about 6 weeks and would like to see one first hand.
I can be reached via cell at 817-471-9050
Thanks in advance
Glenn
03-30-2015, 09:32 AM
#755
KJKimball,
A question about your E-Flite p-360 motor, does it have a large concentric bearing at the open end of the bell? Reason I ask is because my R-65cc does not and it is the reason this motor has ringing and vibration issues, the bell is unsupported there. I have looked at AXI and Hacker large motors and they have the big bearing in this location.
Thanks,
Steve
A question about your E-Flite p-360 motor, does it have a large concentric bearing at the open end of the bell? Reason I ask is because my R-65cc does not and it is the reason this motor has ringing and vibration issues, the bell is unsupported there. I have looked at AXI and Hacker large motors and they have the big bearing in this location.
Thanks,
Steve
03-30-2015, 05:09 PM
#756
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KJKimball,
A question about your E-Flite p-360 motor, does it have a large concentric bearing at the open end of the bell? Reason I ask is because my R-65cc does not and it is the reason this motor has ringing and vibration issues, the bell is unsupported there. I have looked at AXI and Hacker large motors and they have the big bearing in this location.
Thanks,
Steve
A question about your E-Flite p-360 motor, does it have a large concentric bearing at the open end of the bell? Reason I ask is because my R-65cc does not and it is the reason this motor has ringing and vibration issues, the bell is unsupported there. I have looked at AXI and Hacker large motors and they have the big bearing in this location.
Thanks,
Steve
Yes, the Power 360 motor does have both front and rear bearings. The rear one is over 2" in diameter and is just forward of the mount plate on the back. The outer housing or bell as you call it is a shell on this motor that is screwed to the front and rear frames that rotate as the outrunner portion. This thing was designed with Quique who spec'd it for use in 3D aerobatic airplanes like the Inverza 62 that he modeled after my full scale design. In fact, Quique has been an advisor on how hard to run it and the loads it can take. Looking online at the motor you have, imagine if the gold rear machined aluminum part that is fixed to the black mount actually was mounted to the rotating shell with a bearing in it to spin on a large boss on the mount base. That is more of how the Power 360 is made. Super stout and made to withstand gyroscopic 3D aerobatics. The power 360 is 180kv compared to yours at 160kv. The power 360 is designed with 4 bolt prop attachment that is the same as a DA50 4 bolt pattern. The power 360 at 44.4v and 145 amp is making the same HP as a DA85. I recently saw a post somewhere that noted the Power 360 for something like $280 with current coupons available.
Kevin
03-30-2015, 06:11 PM
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=G6HH3P...ature=youtu.be
Did the maiden flight on aehaas's P-51. Plane is powered by an OS GT 60cc engine. Has the operating canopy that you can see at the end of the video. Running a Biela 20 X 10 4 bladed prop with a custom cut Tru-Turn spinner. We flew without the lower cowling for ease of engine tuning and extra cooling. We had one door not open all the way, and the gear retracted against it. You can see it hanging open through out the video. Worked flawlessly before and after the flight. It is a little nose heavy at 6.75", so we will move it back a little at a time. Plane flew well, but had a little yaw that we think was induced from the hanging gear and door. Sorry for the video quality, the camera is about 20 years old and I would rather buy a plane than a camera.
Did the maiden flight on aehaas's P-51. Plane is powered by an OS GT 60cc engine. Has the operating canopy that you can see at the end of the video. Running a Biela 20 X 10 4 bladed prop with a custom cut Tru-Turn spinner. We flew without the lower cowling for ease of engine tuning and extra cooling. We had one door not open all the way, and the gear retracted against it. You can see it hanging open through out the video. Worked flawlessly before and after the flight. It is a little nose heavy at 6.75", so we will move it back a little at a time. Plane flew well, but had a little yaw that we think was induced from the hanging gear and door. Sorry for the video quality, the camera is about 20 years old and I would rather buy a plane than a camera.
03-30-2015, 06:24 PM
#758
KJKimball,
Thanks, that is exactly the information I wanted. I will buy one for the coming flying season starting in September here in Florida. It is now beginning to be too hot to be out in the sun for me. Summer is my building season. I have tracked down a dealer who has the H-9 60cc P 51 in stock so will pick it up this week. I have color Documentation of George Preddy's 'Cripes a Mighty' B model so I will use that color scheme for my plane. I have lots of experience converting D models to B's. The hardest part will be the 'Malcom hood'. Starting from scratch with electric power will be easier now that I have a year's experience with my current plane. My only decision to make with the TF plane is whether to fly it as is or go lighter. With its slotted flap hinging it is the best landing TF GS P 51 of the five I have flown for the past 11 years. I have considered doing this on the H-9 plane but videos show it is not necessary. I bought the same battery setup you are using but when it was installed in the TF airframe and weighed I chickened out at its 33.5 lb. gross wt. I knew that wing could not stand up to that load. I recently found vertical cracks in the fuse reinforcements I had installed when new so 29.5 lbs. is too heavy too.
Thanks, that is exactly the information I wanted. I will buy one for the coming flying season starting in September here in Florida. It is now beginning to be too hot to be out in the sun for me. Summer is my building season. I have tracked down a dealer who has the H-9 60cc P 51 in stock so will pick it up this week. I have color Documentation of George Preddy's 'Cripes a Mighty' B model so I will use that color scheme for my plane. I have lots of experience converting D models to B's. The hardest part will be the 'Malcom hood'. Starting from scratch with electric power will be easier now that I have a year's experience with my current plane. My only decision to make with the TF plane is whether to fly it as is or go lighter. With its slotted flap hinging it is the best landing TF GS P 51 of the five I have flown for the past 11 years. I have considered doing this on the H-9 plane but videos show it is not necessary. I bought the same battery setup you are using but when it was installed in the TF airframe and weighed I chickened out at its 33.5 lb. gross wt. I knew that wing could not stand up to that load. I recently found vertical cracks in the fuse reinforcements I had installed when new so 29.5 lbs. is too heavy too.
03-31-2015, 12:57 AM
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Steve,
Ours is 35 lb with 4 speaker sound system, extra gear battery and electric power setup. The sound system is cute on the ground but cannot be heard in flight unless in slow flight low pass. It would be a good bit of work to take it out now and have to relocate components to get the cg back where it should be. So, that 2-3 lb will stay in the plane.
Kevin
Ours is 35 lb with 4 speaker sound system, extra gear battery and electric power setup. The sound system is cute on the ground but cannot be heard in flight unless in slow flight low pass. It would be a good bit of work to take it out now and have to relocate components to get the cg back where it should be. So, that 2-3 lb will stay in the plane.
Kevin
03-31-2015, 04:43 AM
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Some mods to the 360 are required. The central shaft has to be trimmed off. Then you have to machine an adapter that looks like the ones Vario sells for the 32i prop but is made to fit the 360 flange and DA50 bolt pattern. That is bolted on to the 360 and then the vario hub to it. Since you may be using the 32i prop, you may be able to use one of their adapters. We have not looked at that as a possible solution since we didn't use that prop.
03-31-2015, 05:30 AM
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Robart pneumatic and electric gear will be available through Horizon Hobby. ROBHA9P51 is the item number for the pneumatic gear.
Craig
Craig
All:
Going to be purchasing either this P-51 or the Top Flite P-51. Couple of questions about this P-51.
1. Are air retracts available yet? If so who (Robart, Sierra)
2. I have read the thread and now am trying to figure out what engine is best? I have an EME-60 with onboard starter, will this work?
3. Is there anyone in the Denver, Colorado area that has one these that I may come and take a look? I am in Denver on business for about 6 weeks and would like to see one first hand.
I can be reached via cell at 817-471-9050
Thanks in advance
Glenn
Going to be purchasing either this P-51 or the Top Flite P-51. Couple of questions about this P-51.
1. Are air retracts available yet? If so who (Robart, Sierra)
2. I have read the thread and now am trying to figure out what engine is best? I have an EME-60 with onboard starter, will this work?
3. Is there anyone in the Denver, Colorado area that has one these that I may come and take a look? I am in Denver on business for about 6 weeks and would like to see one first hand.
I can be reached via cell at 817-471-9050
Thanks in advance
Glenn
03-31-2015, 02:24 PM
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Last edited by reznor; 03-31-2015 at 02:54 PM.
03-31-2015, 02:44 PM
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if you look under the completion guide its under retracts and they are instock
04-01-2015, 05:27 AM
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It's about some customers preferring pneumatic gear, willig10 being one example. So we worked with Robart to provide that option. No problems whatsoever with the E-flite electric gear, they're just not everybodys preference.
Craig
Craig
04-01-2015, 01:23 PM
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Hello gentlemen, I'm runing on my plane DA60cc and I don't know which propeller size is the best combination with this mustang. I want to use carbon prop. Pls advise. Thanks
04-01-2015, 08:19 PM
#768
Thanks for sharing!But its good to know that there is a JTec muffler that works. Having said that it looks a bit close to the base of the firewall for my liking. Also hard to access those muffler bolts.
04-02-2015, 10:54 AM
#769
My Feedback: (9)
So Kevin, regarding your conversation above about the bearing config on the P360 vs the R65, you're saying that the rotating bell housing is not cantilevered from the front bearing due to the fact that the large 2" bearing is supporting the rear end of the rotating housing, correct? In effect the rotating housing is placed between the front rear bearings eliminating any cantilever.
Thanx, Mark
Thanx, Mark
04-02-2015, 06:22 PM
#770
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Glenmoore,
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I am going to try 2 props with the DA60. It is finally getting warm enough to fly here so I'll report back after flying. I am using 2 bladed props for now. I would like to try a 4 blade at some point. For now I am going to use a Xoar 23x10 wood, and a Mejzlik 23x8 Carbon EVO. I have used these 2 brands on many of my planes and they perform very well. I think you can use anywhere from a 22x10 up to 24x10 with the DA60. There is plenty of information out there on props if you want to research it further. I think this plane being a warbird and a heavier plane (then 3D planes), you want to generate as much power/thrust as possible so a lighter prop load is generally better. Hope this helps. Maybe others can weigh in on this with experience flying 60cc gas engines in this plane.
04-02-2015, 06:23 PM
#771
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So Kevin, regarding your conversation above about the bearing config on the P360 vs the R65, you're saying that the rotating bell housing is not cantilevered from the front bearing due to the fact that the large 2" bearing is supporting the rear end of the rotating housing, correct? In effect the rotating housing is placed between the front rear bearings eliminating any cantilever.
Thanx, Mark
Thanx, Mark
Yes, that is correct. The P360 motor nose and rear ring that support the outer shell are both on bearings. It is not cantilever off the front only. If you look at the photo of the motor on eflite or horizon site, zoom in and you can see the screws through the shell at front and rear as well as see the rear bearing through the cooling slots in the shell.