New Hangar 9 P-51 60cc
#727
Join Date: Sep 2009
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I do not have the onboard starter (didn't think it would fit in the cowl); however it doesn't need it. It always pops in less than 10 flips and is running in 2-3 more. It was a bear trying to find a wrap-around muffler that would clear the firewall. Finally settled on the j'tec compact wraparound. Fits almost perfectly inside the cowl as well. I had to cut a little at the front corner and to clear the front muffler bolt.
here are some pics:[
TE=marksp;12007401]Do you also have the EME on-board starter? Can you share pics of the engine installation and cowl mods if any?
Cheers
here are some pics:[
TE=marksp;12007401]Do you also have the EME on-board starter? Can you share pics of the engine installation and cowl mods if any?
Cheers
I got a Jtec Wrap Around for the DA-60 and they make them for the DLE / DL that fits the EME (according to the EME website). The Jtec website has a specific menu for the H9 P-51D 60cc and motor type to fit in the cowl (It does not have the EME, but I would have thought the DLE would be a match). It is tapered at the front so you don't have to cut the cowl at least I did not need to in my case. It looks like the compact muffler you are using is not tapered at the front. Did the Jtec guys say the muffler you have is the only one they have that will work with the EME? Just curious.
#728
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Location: McDonough,
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Well, that's annoying. LOL. Totally my fault. I just looked under the mufflers by engine make, instead of by airframe. They informed me that the EME has the same muffler bolt pattern as the DA-50/dle-55, so I'm sure they have one that will work. I'm already on my second cowl (flew it for a couple weeks on the stock muffler while I found one that work), so I will stick with this one until it bugs me enough to have to switch. Thanks for pointing it out though!
Nick
I got a Jtec Wrap Around for the DA-60 and they make them for the DLE / DL that fits the EME (according to the EME website). The Jtec website has a specific menu for the H9 P-51D 60cc and motor type to fit in the cowl (It does not have the EME, but I would have thought the DLE would be a match). It is tapered at the front so you don't have to cut the cowl at least I did not need to in my case. It looks like the compact muffler you are using is not tapered at the front. Did the Jtec guys say the muffler you have is the only one they have that will work with the EME? Just curious.[/QUOTE]
Nick
I got a Jtec Wrap Around for the DA-60 and they make them for the DLE / DL that fits the EME (according to the EME website). The Jtec website has a specific menu for the H9 P-51D 60cc and motor type to fit in the cowl (It does not have the EME, but I would have thought the DLE would be a match). It is tapered at the front so you don't have to cut the cowl at least I did not need to in my case. It looks like the compact muffler you are using is not tapered at the front. Did the Jtec guys say the muffler you have is the only one they have that will work with the EME? Just curious.[/QUOTE]
#729
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Location: Glenmoore,
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The "which muffler" to use is always interesting, especially in the tight cowl space depending how much you care about the cowl cutting. I have found I need at least 1/8 inch clearance or you risk rubbing/cracking. I have experience with 3D planes but not in the larger gas warbirds. With the pitts style wrap around you have the issue of keeping it tight enough,including the potential need to strap the counter side of the muffler to the engine mount depending on size and vibration. I have had no problems up to this size 30-60cc in terms of needing to strap the pitts wrap around muffler. In an 85cc single piston engine I needed to strap the muffler though. Just to much counter weight shaking on the back of the muffler to hold tight. Also, I make sure the prop is well balanced. I have not drilled out the muffler bolts to add the wire between them before but that seems like a great way to keep screws from backing out beyond just "Loctite" on them. If Keleo Creations made a scale exhaust for this and I was not out of cash for this project it would be an extra cool factor.
At least we can go get a new cowl for $39.99 if needed. I would like another shot at getting my canopy right for $29.99 but I'll wait until I have flown this thing for a while with hopefully no major mishaps.
At least we can go get a new cowl for $39.99 if needed. I would like another shot at getting my canopy right for $29.99 but I'll wait until I have flown this thing for a while with hopefully no major mishaps.
#731
Join Date: Sep 2009
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I don't have that spinner but the HH site shows "deep red" and "cub yellow" as the UltraCote colors. If someone else has not already tried something I would search for those colors at the LHS.
#733
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kirkland, WA
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DLE55RA installed with JTEC muffler. It all fits fine enclosed in cowl. Added a 1/4" spacer between the hub and spinner backplate - yours may or may not need it. I know, void warranty, etc., etc. I'm good with it. Cowl still needs to be cut for cooling and exhaust tip exit, exhaust tips still need to be cut down.
I don't have the length of the standoffs yet. I can post that when I get them cut down.
Hope this helps others out.
I don't have the length of the standoffs yet. I can post that when I get them cut down.
Hope this helps others out.
#734
DLE55RA installed with JTEC muffler. It all fits fine enclosed in cowl. Added a 1/4" spacer between the hub and spinner backplate - yours may or may not need it. I know, void warranty, etc., etc. I'm good with it. Cowl still needs to be cut for cooling and exhaust tip exit, exhaust tips still need to be cut down.
I don't have the length of the standoffs yet. I can post that when I get them cut down.
Hope this helps others out.
I don't have the length of the standoffs yet. I can post that when I get them cut down.
Hope this helps others out.
I posted my findings again and said it would fit without any issues. The paragraph below is a cut and paste from one of the nay sayers who would not believe what my mock-up engine installation proved!! I have been working in the aerospace industry for 36 years, I have done numerous mock-ups of various kinds on different types of aircraft to prove components fit without modifications, or do not fit unless modifications are carried out, I was a bit taken back at the statement below from one of the nay sayers!!
Hey Roger,
I know you didn't mean to mislead but you did. I nearly followed your advice and almost bought a DLE 55RA, thank God I had to do something in the meantime otherwise I'd have one on its way to me. I have now ordered an OS GT60 and I know it will fit, based on actual fact.
It's funny how some people like to help out by pushing their untested theories on others. I for one would have been really pissed if I purchased the 55RA and had the fitment issues that people with the actual engine and actual plane are discovering as opposed to photos, guessimates, mock-up plans and theories.
So Roger, please keep your untested theories to yourself they aren't helpful, in fact their dangerous, particularly when they are stated as fact. Statements made as fact are usually taken by the recipient as having solid evidence behind them, otherwise they would be misleading!!
Last edited by ForcesR; 03-25-2015 at 01:24 PM. Reason: word seperation
#737
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Just a follow up on my EME 60 installation. I have some rpm data:On the ground, 23x10 at 6500rpm, 24x10 at 6200rpm. Idle at around 1100 for the 24x10 and 1200 for the 23x10. Both unload about 1000 rpm in the air at "cruise". Both seem to perform almost identically. Nick
#738
#739
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DLE55RA installed with JTEC muffler. It all fits fine enclosed in cowl. Added a 1/4" spacer between the hub and spinner backplate - yours may or may not need it. I know, void warranty, etc., etc. I'm good with it. Cowl still needs to be cut for cooling and exhaust tip exit, exhaust tips still need to be cut down.
I don't have the length of the standoffs yet. I can post that when I get them cut down.
Hope this helps others out.
I don't have the length of the standoffs yet. I can post that when I get them cut down.
Hope this helps others out.
#740
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I have fixed the engine but I think I made a mistake
the spinner back plate is not flush with fuselage nose!! Kindly advice is it ok or I have to reinstall it?
I already drilled the fire wall. In case I have to reinstall the engine what is the best way to fill the engine mount whol in the firewall and drill another whole for it??
Kindly advise.
Hameed
the spinner back plate is not flush with fuselage nose!! Kindly advice is it ok or I have to reinstall it?
I already drilled the fire wall. In case I have to reinstall the engine what is the best way to fill the engine mount whol in the firewall and drill another whole for it??
Kindly advise.
Hameed
#741
My Feedback: (3)
Oldcrow,
looking at your picture it looks like the offset is increasing the right thrust. You could try adding washers under the right side firewall standoffs at the firewall. This would shift the spinner back to the left and center it on the fuse. The backplate clearance would increase slightly but would not be noticeable. I you decide to re-drill the holes, fill them with hard wood dowels. Cut them a little longer, then using a piece of wood covered with plastic wrap held inside the fuse push the glue soaked dowels in until they touch the plastic and stop. After the glue sets sand them flush and you are ready to re-drill. I use brown Gorilla glue for stuff like this as it doesn't age and crack like epoxy does.
looking at your picture it looks like the offset is increasing the right thrust. You could try adding washers under the right side firewall standoffs at the firewall. This would shift the spinner back to the left and center it on the fuse. The backplate clearance would increase slightly but would not be noticeable. I you decide to re-drill the holes, fill them with hard wood dowels. Cut them a little longer, then using a piece of wood covered with plastic wrap held inside the fuse push the glue soaked dowels in until they touch the plastic and stop. After the glue sets sand them flush and you are ready to re-drill. I use brown Gorilla glue for stuff like this as it doesn't age and crack like epoxy does.
#742
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Oldcrow,
looking at your picture it looks like the offset is increasing the right thrust. You could try adding washers under the right side firewall standoffs at the firewall. This would shift the spinner back to the left and center it on the fuse. The backplate clearance would increase slightly but would not be noticeable. I you decide to re-drill the holes, fill them with hard wood dowels. Cut them a little longer, then using a piece of wood covered with plastic wrap held inside the fuse push the glue soaked dowels in until they touch the plastic and stop. After the glue sets sand them flush and you are ready to re-drill. I use brown Gorilla glue for stuff like this as it doesn't age and crack like epoxy does.
looking at your picture it looks like the offset is increasing the right thrust. You could try adding washers under the right side firewall standoffs at the firewall. This would shift the spinner back to the left and center it on the fuse. The backplate clearance would increase slightly but would not be noticeable. I you decide to re-drill the holes, fill them with hard wood dowels. Cut them a little longer, then using a piece of wood covered with plastic wrap held inside the fuse push the glue soaked dowels in until they touch the plastic and stop. After the glue sets sand them flush and you are ready to re-drill. I use brown Gorilla glue for stuff like this as it doesn't age and crack like epoxy does.
#743
Join Date: May 2014
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hi everyone i got the kinks worked out of the mustang and got to go full throttle for the first time. not sure what the speed of the passes are but they look faster than my corsair and it was at 146mph.the only the problem I've been having is with the gear because of the fact that in accelerating faster than a gas powered mustang i have to get it slowed way down with full flaps to pick the gear up so they dont amp out half way up.other than that everything is running perfect.
https://youtu.be/lyJKnft0YU0
https://youtu.be/lyJKnft0YU0
#745
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Ok maiden flight done. This bird flying super and solid like rock. It glides better then TF P51 GS. On landing come all the way to Idle and it lands like glider. I put 150 gram in nose to balance the CG.
Here is my setup:-
engine: DA 60cc
muffler: slimline Pitts
servos: 8411 ( Ail+Rub+Thr)
8911 ( Flaps )
Nx3421 ( Elevator )
battery: 1 lipo for RX 2 cell 5000
1 lipo for ignition 2 cell 2200
RX: futaba 7008sb
TX: 14SG
Here is my setup:-
engine: DA 60cc
muffler: slimline Pitts
servos: 8411 ( Ail+Rub+Thr)
8911 ( Flaps )
Nx3421 ( Elevator )
battery: 1 lipo for RX 2 cell 5000
1 lipo for ignition 2 cell 2200
RX: futaba 7008sb
TX: 14SG
#746
My Feedback: (37)
hi everyone i got the kinks worked out of the mustang and got to go full throttle for the first time. not sure what the speed of the passes are but they look faster than my corsair and it was at 146mph.the only the problem I've been having is with the gear because of the fact that in accelerating faster than a gas powered mustang i have to get it slowed way down with full flaps to pick the gear up so they dont amp out half way up.other than that everything is running perfect.
https://youtu.be/lyJKnft0YU0
https://youtu.be/lyJKnft0YU0
Last edited by fw190; 03-27-2015 at 08:31 AM.
#747
My Feedback: (9)
Ok maiden flight done. This bird flying super and solid like rock. It glides better then TF P51 GS. On landing come all the way to Idle and it lands like glider. I put 150 gram in nose to balance the CG.
Here is my setup:-
engine: DA 60cc
muffler: slimline Pitts
servos: 8411 ( Ail+Rub+Thr)
8911 ( Flaps )
Nx3421 ( Elevator )
battery: 1 lipo for RX 2 cell 5000
1 lipo for ignition 2 cell 2200
RX: futaba 7008sb
TX: 14SG
Here is my setup:-
engine: DA 60cc
muffler: slimline Pitts
servos: 8411 ( Ail+Rub+Thr)
8911 ( Flaps )
Nx3421 ( Elevator )
battery: 1 lipo for RX 2 cell 5000
1 lipo for ignition 2 cell 2200
RX: futaba 7008sb
TX: 14SG
Cheers
#748
Join Date: May 2014
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I did see that not sure if you noticed all the dirt that starts flying around at the same time as the shaking starts. I think what is happening is that at high speeds the air that is coming in the cowling to cool the motor , speed controller and the flight batteries is preasureizing the cockpit because I have no exit air holes in the fuse
#749
My Feedback: (3)
kalzone,
I watched your video. I have on board video of my plane flying also. In one of the videos I had a camera pointed at a GPS speed app in an old smartphone showing 114mph, compared to that your plane is much faster. Also, I noticed a high level of vibration come in at full throttle. You need to fix that. When mine was vibrating I tried all kinds of prop and spinner balancing but couldn't solve it. After the sixth flight I detected excess bearing play in the motor. The cause probably wasn't the same problem you have. Try running the motor without anything on the front and look for shaft run-out. If that's OK take an old prop and cut both blades off and balance the remaining hub, then put the spinner back-plate and prop hub on tight and run that up. If you can feel ANY vibration in the nose of the plane it will get worse when you put the spinner cone on and run it. As soon as you detect any vibration reduce throttle and check every thing. Don't get in the plane of rotation when testing. Spinners can get thrown off with lethal force. I found that moving the prop driver around until it ran smooth solve my bugs. When you get one part to run smooth at full throttle put index marks on the shaft, prop driver and back plate and go to the next part. Don't install a full propeller until the spinner cone can take full throttle and you can't feel any vibration in the nose of the plane. Since its electric you can do this stuff at home and it won't disturb the neighbors. My motor picked up several hundred rpm this way. The index marks will insure it is all in the right place each time you assemble the front end. Also put your prop on a flat surface and measure the tips for the same distance to the flat surface. Propeller and Rotor mechanics call this blade tracking, it needs to be the same for both tips. Since you are using the Varioprop it should be balanced pretty good, mine was. You have to take into consideration that all the precision stuff we buy is built by people who don't give a crap how smooth it runs. Spinner manufacturers excepted, the Dave Brown and TRU-TURN spinners have always run smooth for me.
Good luck with your plane, your experience and others having good results with the H-9 Mustang has convinced me to get one too.
Also, I have read of some flyers having problems with the Landing gear door closing. My experience with this is that the plane has accelerated to a high enough speed that air load over comes the servo power. When a servo is stalled this way current draw is excessive. Keep it slow until the doors close. The full scale Mustang could lose its wings if flown too fast with the gear down.
I watched your video. I have on board video of my plane flying also. In one of the videos I had a camera pointed at a GPS speed app in an old smartphone showing 114mph, compared to that your plane is much faster. Also, I noticed a high level of vibration come in at full throttle. You need to fix that. When mine was vibrating I tried all kinds of prop and spinner balancing but couldn't solve it. After the sixth flight I detected excess bearing play in the motor. The cause probably wasn't the same problem you have. Try running the motor without anything on the front and look for shaft run-out. If that's OK take an old prop and cut both blades off and balance the remaining hub, then put the spinner back-plate and prop hub on tight and run that up. If you can feel ANY vibration in the nose of the plane it will get worse when you put the spinner cone on and run it. As soon as you detect any vibration reduce throttle and check every thing. Don't get in the plane of rotation when testing. Spinners can get thrown off with lethal force. I found that moving the prop driver around until it ran smooth solve my bugs. When you get one part to run smooth at full throttle put index marks on the shaft, prop driver and back plate and go to the next part. Don't install a full propeller until the spinner cone can take full throttle and you can't feel any vibration in the nose of the plane. Since its electric you can do this stuff at home and it won't disturb the neighbors. My motor picked up several hundred rpm this way. The index marks will insure it is all in the right place each time you assemble the front end. Also put your prop on a flat surface and measure the tips for the same distance to the flat surface. Propeller and Rotor mechanics call this blade tracking, it needs to be the same for both tips. Since you are using the Varioprop it should be balanced pretty good, mine was. You have to take into consideration that all the precision stuff we buy is built by people who don't give a crap how smooth it runs. Spinner manufacturers excepted, the Dave Brown and TRU-TURN spinners have always run smooth for me.
Good luck with your plane, your experience and others having good results with the H-9 Mustang has convinced me to get one too.
Also, I have read of some flyers having problems with the Landing gear door closing. My experience with this is that the plane has accelerated to a high enough speed that air load over comes the servo power. When a servo is stalled this way current draw is excessive. Keep it slow until the doors close. The full scale Mustang could lose its wings if flown too fast with the gear down.