New Hangar 9 P-51 60cc
12-01-2015, 09:42 AM
#1051
The only advantage a larger engine will give you is the ability to turn a larger prop. It don't sound like much but the bigger the prop the better Mustangs fly. I am using a Graupner 22-12 sport prop on the H 9 plane-so far that is all I have tried on it. The combination of 12 inch pitch and very slow stall speeds of this plane means the engine needs to be well adjusted to be able to idle lower than you would normally run it for landing. I have landed it at a higher idle speed where it is more reliable but it means a faster wheel landing and long run out-the same method I use with my TF Mustangs. You could use lower pitch but then you give up a lot of top speed and climb in a trade-off for lower speed engine control. So far it has stopped running a couple of times at the end of the landing roll-out. A variable pitch prop would be nice.
I have flown my TF planes with ZDZ 80 26-12 power and the landing control-ability is impressive. The larger prop loads the flaps more giving greater flap lift at slow speeds, I think I can land them 8-10 mph slower with the larger props and the bigger engine has a more dependable idle. Takeoffs are quicker at slower speeds-from dead stop to liftoff (on its own) at 1/4 throttle with a 45 degree climb out unless you are quick to get the nose down. About the time you would expect the tail to lift it is off and flying. And vertical climb is incredible. I could hold vertical until it disappeared. The downside is the TF wing is too fragile for that much gross weight. Reinforcing is an option but adds weight. The TF should not weigh more than 23 lbs.-21 is better.
I have flown my TF planes with ZDZ 80 26-12 power and the landing control-ability is impressive. The larger prop loads the flaps more giving greater flap lift at slow speeds, I think I can land them 8-10 mph slower with the larger props and the bigger engine has a more dependable idle. Takeoffs are quicker at slower speeds-from dead stop to liftoff (on its own) at 1/4 throttle with a 45 degree climb out unless you are quick to get the nose down. About the time you would expect the tail to lift it is off and flying. And vertical climb is incredible. I could hold vertical until it disappeared. The downside is the TF wing is too fragile for that much gross weight. Reinforcing is an option but adds weight. The TF should not weigh more than 23 lbs.-21 is better.
12-01-2015, 10:22 AM
#1053
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Yeah I wouldn't be opposed to using the DA50 but I have 60 just laying around doing nothing. My TF has a 3w 50 and it flies great. I seen the H9 flown at warbirds over the rockies with the DA60 really hauled butt.Not sure the prop size I'll have to figure that out too.the 3w has a 20x12 works good, I was thinking of starting with a 22x12
12-01-2015, 11:44 AM
#1055
The H 9 Mustang- DA 50 is always going fast. There does not seem to be a middle cruising speed. After it gets cleaned up and on the step there does not seem to be a difference in speed between full and 1/2 throttle. I think the airframe is so slick and low drag that it only wants to fly fast. I did not install the main gear doors yet and I think that is the only drag holding it back. My TF Mustangs went 10-12 mph faster with the main doors on.
12-01-2015, 01:00 PM
#1057
Most of my gas motors broke in at around 45-50 10 minute flights. I never run them on the ground except to verify engine cooling. I expect them to run out a 32 ounce tank taxiing around my yard. I hold the plane every 5 minutes at full power for 30-45 seconds then resume the taxi. If it doesn't vapor lock under these conditions it will be fine in the air. The DA had a bad crash in 2011 and was rebuilt by DA. Between then and putting it in the H 9 Mustang it only got 17 flights and was unreliable in flight, it would shut off with no warning. I sent it back again with a description of the intermittent problem and they kept it for a month, then sent it back with a repaired ignition system. It hasn't skip a beat since. By hand propping it I thought it had low compression but at around 30 flights the compression began to get better.
It is pulling the H 9 Mustang pretty good and it may get better when the ring seats.
It is pulling the H 9 Mustang pretty good and it may get better when the ring seats.
12-02-2015, 01:08 AM
#1058
The only advantage a larger engine will give you is the ability to turn a larger prop. It don't sound like much but the bigger the prop the better Mustangs fly. I am using a Graupner 22-12 sport prop on the H 9 plane-so far that is all I have tried on it. The combination of 12 inch pitch and very slow stall speeds of this plane means the engine needs to be well adjusted to be able to idle lower than you would normally run it for landing. I have landed it at a higher idle speed where it is more reliable but it means a faster wheel landing and long run out-the same method I use with my TF Mustangs. You could use lower pitch but then you give up a lot of top speed and climb in a trade-off for lower speed engine control. So far it has stopped running a couple of times at the end of the landing roll-out. A variable pitch prop would be nice.
I have flown my TF planes with ZDZ 80 26-12 power and the landing control-ability is impressive. The larger prop loads the flaps more giving greater flap lift at slow speeds, I think I can land them 8-10 mph slower with the larger props and the bigger engine has a more dependable idle. Takeoffs are quicker at slower speeds-from dead stop to liftoff (on its own) at 1/4 throttle with a 45 degree climb out unless you are quick to get the nose down. About the time you would expect the tail to lift it is off and flying. And vertical climb is incredible. I could hold vertical until it disappeared. The downside is the TF wing is too fragile for that much gross weight. Reinforcing is an option but adds weight. The TF should not weigh more than 23 lbs.-21 is better.
I have flown my TF planes with ZDZ 80 26-12 power and the landing control-ability is impressive. The larger prop loads the flaps more giving greater flap lift at slow speeds, I think I can land them 8-10 mph slower with the larger props and the bigger engine has a more dependable idle. Takeoffs are quicker at slower speeds-from dead stop to liftoff (on its own) at 1/4 throttle with a 45 degree climb out unless you are quick to get the nose down. About the time you would expect the tail to lift it is off and flying. And vertical climb is incredible. I could hold vertical until it disappeared. The downside is the TF wing is too fragile for that much gross weight. Reinforcing is an option but adds weight. The TF should not weigh more than 23 lbs.-21 is better.
Cary
12-02-2015, 02:12 AM
#1060
12-27-2015, 08:55 PM
#1064
I noticed a rattle in my left outer wing panel after my last flight.
A wooden plug that seals the outer end of the small fiber glass wing tube in the left wing came loose and fell out allowing the aluminum wing tube to float free in the wing. It was about 1.5 inches from moving into the outer panel completely leaving the outer panel free to rotate except for the 2 retaining bolts which I hope would have prevented a failure. Only a small bit of balsa rib prevented further travel. With the tube entirely inside the outer panel it is possible a high G maneuver might have over stressed the big tube and lost the wing tip. I have got to figure out a way to fix this, now.
A wooden plug that seals the outer end of the small fiber glass wing tube in the left wing came loose and fell out allowing the aluminum wing tube to float free in the wing. It was about 1.5 inches from moving into the outer panel completely leaving the outer panel free to rotate except for the 2 retaining bolts which I hope would have prevented a failure. Only a small bit of balsa rib prevented further travel. With the tube entirely inside the outer panel it is possible a high G maneuver might have over stressed the big tube and lost the wing tip. I have got to figure out a way to fix this, now.
12-28-2015, 05:56 AM
#1065
Just getting around to putting on the Gear Doors. The one inner door is all scratched to heck and then clear coated and the other has a gobb of clear coating at least 1/8" thick where the clear coat ran. I think I am going to be calling HH about this mess.
Also, the screws for the servo mounts and gear covers, etc. are all 3mm + x 14+ and they have a screwball head that none of my tools fit correctly. The book calls for 2.5 x 10mm. I would have had to drill out all the pre-drilled holes and the screws would have been too close to the edge of the wood. I put in some 2.5 x 12mm screws I had.
Other that these two problems things seem to be going well. Oh, .. I too had a crappy job on the covering. It looks like the builder got tired when it came to doing the pre-covering prep work. Lots of bumps and depressions. The builder did better than I could so, I'll live with it.
Also, the screws for the servo mounts and gear covers, etc. are all 3mm + x 14+ and they have a screwball head that none of my tools fit correctly. The book calls for 2.5 x 10mm. I would have had to drill out all the pre-drilled holes and the screws would have been too close to the edge of the wood. I put in some 2.5 x 12mm screws I had.
Other that these two problems things seem to be going well. Oh, .. I too had a crappy job on the covering. It looks like the builder got tired when it came to doing the pre-covering prep work. Lots of bumps and depressions. The builder did better than I could so, I'll live with it.
12-29-2015, 09:26 AM
#1067
I have over 50 flights on mine with the electric gear. All is well. I have had issues with the hinges on the inner gear door. I switched them to large dubro. If I was to do it over again I would sequence the doors through the radio instead of the eflite controller. I would like more of a delay.
Plane still flies fantastic.
Plane still flies fantastic.
12-31-2015, 08:53 AM
#1068
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Question : Anyone
Where and How , have you mounted the retract controller for the inner door panels. I am concerned about the fuel tank/canopy floor clearance in the fuselage.
A picture would be very helpful.
Thank you
Steve
Where and How , have you mounted the retract controller for the inner door panels. I am concerned about the fuel tank/canopy floor clearance in the fuselage.
A picture would be very helpful.
Thank you
Steve
01-02-2016, 10:51 AM
#1072
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Hi Alb1661, I used velcro to stick my controller towards rear of bottom of cockpit seat area. See the photos. I worked out that this made the wiring harness connections much simpler with all on one side. Also see EME 60cc Autostart installation with rear mounted muffler (custom made). SilverFly
01-02-2016, 10:55 AM
#1073
Has anyone figured out how to get the Electric Main Gear to retract evenly? When retracted, one side is retracted about 3/16" further up in the wheel well than the other side. It looks to me that I would have to disassemble the retract drive and re-position the motor so that it does no screw the gear up so far. But, ... Then what would that do to the angle of the strut when the gear is down???
01-02-2016, 12:15 PM
#1075
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Hi Len Todd, have you used the small white rectangular shims included with the gear correctly? Silly question I know. I found that I got much better closed open position for the wheel/leg when I inserted the 4 shims under the retract unit to frame. My units are now exactly right where they sit closed and open. I found the gear door and links assembly really time consuming to get just right aligned both open and closed....4 to 5 hours including epoxy on the door hinges etc. Sweat...