Kolm 135 install in CARF Mustang
#401
My Feedback: (6)
False Greg, This is a IL230. Same engine as it is in Galloping Ghost , but 3 not 4 Zylinder. 77 cc per zylinder.
So:
The holes under the elevator wasn´t me. i bought the kit as it is, and the hole where already done. for sure i will close it, and build the servos in the elevator as usual :-)
Colling:
I will build it in same way as wil IL135 or 150. will also work (i hope) :-).
The printed cooling part is ok, but i don´t like the split. i will close the little hole (as usual). for sure cooling works better when all the input-air goes trou the engine.
in my spitfire the cooling air comes from carb-side. but the whole in the front is 3x bigger then in mustang, so i think the carbs will suck all the air away, and there will be not enough for cooling the engine. for sure a IL230 needs a lot of air to run....
CG:
that will be a problem .... the engine itselve is 8kg (no ignition and mounting parts). i will build it as much in the back as i can. with a longer prop mount. the engine will fit in fuselage without any cuttings (for sure when il 135 fits, it´s same size, only longer)
i will build all the RC, Batteries and servos in the back. Voodoo has a big Cooling flap , where i can fix all this at the tail wheel.
Prop:
i will test the Ramoser Varioprop. it´s 29.5 zoll 4 Blade and adjustable in pitch up to 30". they use it for Moki 250, so no problem for the Kolm...
First bench test with my brand new engine we took the Menz 32/18 which they use on Moki. it was 4800 rpm.
BUT: this Prop is nearly 1 kg Heavy. so, when i have massive problems with CG, i have to use a normal 2blade Fiala.
you can see the Pics on my Facebook site:
https://www.facebook.com/thomas.gass.501
or our Reno 22% site:
https://www.facebook.com/RENO-Air-Ra...37946/?fref=ts
So:
The holes under the elevator wasn´t me. i bought the kit as it is, and the hole where already done. for sure i will close it, and build the servos in the elevator as usual :-)
Colling:
I will build it in same way as wil IL135 or 150. will also work (i hope) :-).
The printed cooling part is ok, but i don´t like the split. i will close the little hole (as usual). for sure cooling works better when all the input-air goes trou the engine.
in my spitfire the cooling air comes from carb-side. but the whole in the front is 3x bigger then in mustang, so i think the carbs will suck all the air away, and there will be not enough for cooling the engine. for sure a IL230 needs a lot of air to run....
CG:
that will be a problem .... the engine itselve is 8kg (no ignition and mounting parts). i will build it as much in the back as i can. with a longer prop mount. the engine will fit in fuselage without any cuttings (for sure when il 135 fits, it´s same size, only longer)
i will build all the RC, Batteries and servos in the back. Voodoo has a big Cooling flap , where i can fix all this at the tail wheel.
Prop:
i will test the Ramoser Varioprop. it´s 29.5 zoll 4 Blade and adjustable in pitch up to 30". they use it for Moki 250, so no problem for the Kolm...
First bench test with my brand new engine we took the Menz 32/18 which they use on Moki. it was 4800 rpm.
BUT: this Prop is nearly 1 kg Heavy. so, when i have massive problems with CG, i have to use a normal 2blade Fiala.
you can see the Pics on my Facebook site:
https://www.facebook.com/thomas.gass.501
or our Reno 22% site:
https://www.facebook.com/RENO-Air-Ra...37946/?fref=ts
Wow!!!!
That is going to be a Killer combination.
Will you be adding additional strength with carbon fiber cloth thru out the fuse to handle all of the extra power and weight of the engine?
#403
Hello Greg!
Yes is will :-)
I can show you the building step by step. Though about a new thread for Voodoo. Otherwise here is already so much information about kolm-installation.... what do you think ?
tom
Yes is will :-)
I can show you the building step by step. Though about a new thread for Voodoo. Otherwise here is already so much information about kolm-installation.... what do you think ?
tom
#404
What phoenix (or any ESC settings) are you using for the starter motor?
My starter motor, even without any spark plugs installed in the engine, only turns over for about 3 seconds then stops. It rotates freely by hand so there's nothing really causing it to stop mechanically. I can't find any paperwork that came with the engine for the starter itself and my Austrian isn't so good so the motor instructions online are much help. https://www.lindinger.at/media/pdf/9700063-9700097.pdf
My starter motor, even without any spark plugs installed in the engine, only turns over for about 3 seconds then stops. It rotates freely by hand so there's nothing really causing it to stop mechanically. I can't find any paperwork that came with the engine for the starter itself and my Austrian isn't so good so the motor instructions online are much help. https://www.lindinger.at/media/pdf/9700063-9700097.pdf
#405
thx,
lucky
#406
Lucky macy
engine is mounted with 4 bolts in the back, no soft mount.
batteries were mounted as far back as my arm could reach.
I only had to add 4onz into the vertical stab. BB mixed with epoxy.
I think it weighs about 44lbs but cannot remember exactly.
I do not have a starter. The engine will fire in less than 3 flips once it gets fuel into the carb.
Mr Scoles
CG was at factory recommendations for first flight but it had no spinner and lighter prop then. I also added an extra independent servo for rudder and tail wheel well in the very back to improve ground handling. So I do not know exactly were the CG is currently but likely slightly tail heavy than factory recommended. This is dry of course.
engine is mounted with 4 bolts in the back, no soft mount.
batteries were mounted as far back as my arm could reach.
I only had to add 4onz into the vertical stab. BB mixed with epoxy.
I think it weighs about 44lbs but cannot remember exactly.
I do not have a starter. The engine will fire in less than 3 flips once it gets fuel into the carb.
Mr Scoles
CG was at factory recommendations for first flight but it had no spinner and lighter prop then. I also added an extra independent servo for rudder and tail wheel well in the very back to improve ground handling. So I do not know exactly were the CG is currently but likely slightly tail heavy than factory recommended. This is dry of course.
#408
Got the starter to stay on for the most part. 3s lipo pack, new, fully charged.
No no spark plugs installed, pull 2 amps and 24.3 watts.
with plugs in, sometimes stalls and won't turn over but when it does it averages about 17.8 amps and 200 watts. It also pulls the voltage down from 12.3 at start down to 11.14 while running.
it struggles too much. I think it should be a 4s pack until it gets broken in.
still need to go back and find a way to turn power off after it starts during flight phase but it'd be cool to run the motor in case it stopped in flight too.
No no spark plugs installed, pull 2 amps and 24.3 watts.
with plugs in, sometimes stalls and won't turn over but when it does it averages about 17.8 amps and 200 watts. It also pulls the voltage down from 12.3 at start down to 11.14 while running.
it struggles too much. I think it should be a 4s pack until it gets broken in.
still need to go back and find a way to turn power off after it starts during flight phase but it'd be cool to run the motor in case it stopped in flight too.
#409
Good Morning And happy new year
so, i started my il150 with 2S lipo. Looks super realistic. Max 40amps
with 3S it turns much faster.
For il135(big block) you need minimum 3S. You need and esc with a good program for start sequence. You know what's the problem with sensor less brushless engines. We tried different types. Some work , some not. I will try to send you the types we use. But I think in USA you can't order them. In case for emergency I send you one !
Tom
so, i started my il150 with 2S lipo. Looks super realistic. Max 40amps
with 3S it turns much faster.
For il135(big block) you need minimum 3S. You need and esc with a good program for start sequence. You know what's the problem with sensor less brushless engines. We tried different types. Some work , some not. I will try to send you the types we use. But I think in USA you can't order them. In case for emergency I send you one !
Tom
#410
Good Morning And happy new year
so, i started my il150 with 2S lipo. Looks super realistic. Max 40amps
with 3S it turns much faster.
For il135(big block) you need minimum 3S. You need and esc with a good program for start sequence. You know what's the problem with sensor less brushless engines. We tried different types. Some work , some not. I will try to send you the types we use. But I think in USA you can't order them. In case for emergency I send you one !
Tom
so, i started my il150 with 2S lipo. Looks super realistic. Max 40amps
with 3S it turns much faster.
For il135(big block) you need minimum 3S. You need and esc with a good program for start sequence. You know what's the problem with sensor less brushless engines. We tried different types. Some work , some not. I will try to send you the types we use. But I think in USA you can't order them. In case for emergency I send you one !
Tom
It's these nagging little things like the deciding on the mounts to use and getting the electric motor's ESC/Battery/switch mumbo jumbo sorted out that's holding up real progress on my CARF P-51 so looking forward to some answers.
#413
Also Tom, for the IL 135, I'm still looking for 'better', as in firmer, isolation mounts. Did you ever find stiffer material that were otherwise perfect replacements for the original soft mounts for the engine supplied by Kolm. I recall your earlier post about trying out the original softer mounts but using heavy duty heat shrink material over them to stiffen them up. How is that experiment working out? I have my doubts they would not eventually split open during use on cold day or just any day over time.
It's these nagging little things like the deciding on the mounts to use and getting the electric motor's ESC/Battery/switch mumbo jumbo sorted out that's holding up real progress on my CARF P-51 so looking forward to some answers.
It's these nagging little things like the deciding on the mounts to use and getting the electric motor's ESC/Battery/switch mumbo jumbo sorted out that's holding up real progress on my CARF P-51 so looking forward to some answers.
The heat shrink works , but I only had 20 flights with these. So , no long time test....
if I get harder one, I can send you !
Tom
#414
News to the ISB :
we have a new design. I will test it today. At the moment we work in the translation for the manual.
Features:
auto- cut off the starter-esc when you switch the model off
support fuel pump
ingition switch included
everything works on single battery
supports up to 4S Lipo
we have a new design. I will test it today. At the moment we work in the translation for the manual.
Features:
auto- cut off the starter-esc when you switch the model off
support fuel pump
ingition switch included
everything works on single battery
supports up to 4S Lipo
#418
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Boston,
MA
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well thats no fun for the new year start....I presume all engines, KOLM and others are always test run at factory before sending out, correct? But I guess not with the ignition units supplied..those are just built elsewhere and included in the shipping box...
tom, what is the horsepower of the IL 230?
tom, what is the horsepower of the IL 230?
Last edited by Hello82; 01-03-2016 at 09:49 AM.
#419
Hello!
So, looks like the magnets are correct. Maybe just a ignition problem. I cannot see on the video : do you have nothing on rear zylinder ? Or just a smaller flash?
Compression:
check it after break in again. Sometimes valves need some time to close "perfect". Also check it while break in procedure...
Tom
So, looks like the magnets are correct. Maybe just a ignition problem. I cannot see on the video : do you have nothing on rear zylinder ? Or just a smaller flash?
Compression:
check it after break in again. Sometimes valves need some time to close "perfect". Also check it while break in procedure...
Tom
#420
Hello!
So, looks like the magnets are correct. Maybe just a ignition problem. I cannot see on the video : do you have nothing on rear zylinder ? Or just a smaller flash?
Compression:
check it after break in again. Sometimes valves need some time to close "perfect". Also check it while break in procedure...
Tom
So, looks like the magnets are correct. Maybe just a ignition problem. I cannot see on the video : do you have nothing on rear zylinder ? Or just a smaller flash?
Compression:
check it after break in again. Sometimes valves need some time to close "perfect". Also check it while break in procedure...
Tom
Last edited by luckymacy; 01-10-2016 at 01:33 AM.
#422
I think there will be no horsepower-datas any more in future. how knows exactly ? how has a perfect system to check it how much it really is ?
I think the best way to define the power of an engine is : what prop an how much rpm
so, me brand new Il230 with MenzS 32/18 (moki250 prop) had nearly 4800 on ground.
Tom
#424