TLH101

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Andy,
Have been out to field in Odem that I e-mailed you about : http://www.gerbersrc.com/index.html
Several Large Warbird flyers out there.

flying2bill

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The notches for the stringers did not line up, as if the former was too tall, got some tips from lbrannen, he did a Ziroli build a while back and had a website with a lot of good pics, try looking here http://p-38.corpcomp.com
Are you running stringers during dry runs to check alignments there? I have installed hatches on the bottoms of the wings and modified the servo mounts so the servos and linkages are all concealled, this became especially tricky for the ailerons as the wing gets pretty thin out there

paperairplanes

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TLH101- havent been out there yet. Been busy with work and this BIG bird!!!! Maybe try to peek in this weekend or something. We have holiday routine coming up, will have some time to stop on by and maybe put something in the air!!!! I have visited the website though. Need to re-up my AMA also..........


Flying Bill- lbrannen is on my favorites. Some good pics definately. Havent been running stringers yet. Will definately though for the formers. Didnt really see a need to for the ribs. I guess when we do stringers for the formers, we will doscover whats up with F10, just looks as if it should sit on top of the spruce crutch............ How far along is yours? Have any pics? I love pics!!!!!!!


How many of you guys have the instructions? Dont see them on Zirolis site?!?!?!

I found another site that has a pretty good build on it, will try to find it again in my vastness of a computer!!!!!!! Not many out there.

isnt this one mean lookin bird!!!!

crashnburn

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I bought Zirololi's D-18 plans a number of years ago and they did come with some instructions-albeit very basic ones.

funfly-RCU

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Hay Guys, Im building the booms and now Im stuck. If I cut from former 6 to the firewall how do I make this part removable when Im stalling the centre section.

Quick one do's is slide on and off.

Im scratching whats let of my hire out. Help!!!!!

paperairplanes

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I think what you might be referring to is the nose section that is supposed to be removable? Is this correct? If so, F1, 2 and 3 do not get glued to the crutch making it removable, it is secured through the glass nose cowling to the crutch with a bolt. I can dig up a pic or so of this.

Oops, I just reread your post and I think I am thinking of something else. You are talking about the boom and I was referring to the fuse. My bad. We have not yet made it to the booomassembly.

alsez

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I'm installing equipment in my Z38 now. Was going to test fly in primer before I leave for Xmas up north but looks like it will have to wait until I get back. Made several mods to the Gill kit. The center section and booms are one piece which made me change the gear setup so they could be pulled out the bottom. No removable cover behind the engine since the gear comes out the bottom. Nose is all one piece with access panels like the real one. They can be opened up by air cylinders. All tail servos are in the lower fins. Extra washout which I put in all my planes. A receiver in each boom under the gear. Throttle and choke servos on other side of gear so they can be adjusted while running. JR matachbox on one engine for fine tunning. 100% ball links everywhere. Vibration from twin gas can wreck havoc on everything. 3 bladed bolly props. The ZDZ 80's cowled in without any cutouts except plug and exhaust. Engines flown 1hr each in Yellow AT 6. Redesigned air outlet system behind the engine ala Yellow P38. Two 16 oz tanks for each engine. Gear and brake system in the nose. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Some of my conversions can be seen on a DC 3 thread in TWINS. Balance seems very good and a sling weight on my scale shows 43 pounds. Figure PPG and some scale detail and it will be close to 48 pounds.

Falcon Jet

Paperairplanes and I had another fullfilling day today, glued in ribs W-1 through W-7 today on both sides and added the upper spruce spars on the forward and trailing edge of the ribs. We are using Titebond II wood glue, takes about an hour to dry, but boy is it strong when it sets up! Paperair planes is experiencing puter problems right now, so hopefully he'll get it resolved soon and post some pictures we took today!! Once the ribs are done, then we'll start on the frames (or formers as the RC world calls them, sorry, I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade!). Xmas has really hampered our progress lately, I'm sure you all can relate, will be glad when January 2nd arrives, then we can dedicate our total time to this project! So far it's looking good. Be patient, pictures hopefully soon to follow.......

Chris.

Tmoth4

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Great thread, guys! I've always wanted to know what was involved in building one of these. Looking forward to more pics.

Jim

paperairplanes

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Took a little bit to get puter goin again, especially with Holidays. Here are some build pics to tide you over until after the first of the year when Chris and I can get back at it.


1. Gluing WS2 and WS2J in while using ribs to help with alignment. You can see also the 1X1 pine right angles that we (Chris) made to help hold it in alignment. Cheap and works pretty good!!!

Note: In this step that was just shown, is probably where next time I would add the temporary dihedral legs on W7. We waited a few steps to add them, but really dont think it will make a difference as we checked, rechecked and checked again and also clamped the heck out of everything!!!!!

2. Top shot of WS2 and its joiner. Note dowls drilled in table to help hold crutch in place. Spruce bends pretty eaasy when soaked, but we thought this would help a little bit...... BTW, this was after glue had dried and clamps removed. We didnt use just one clamp to hold it!!!!

3. F11. Notice 1/8 th dowels drilled into ends of crutch. Helps hold spruce together as they are under some tension. Thanks to corpcomp for this one!!!!!
***NOTE: L and R pieces were extra that we added. More on this later........

4. Fit and finish of hand cut parts!!!!!

paperairplanes

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Next for shots were just before gluing in ribs. We double checked our dihedral once again (was dead on), started gluing. We started with W1 and worked our way out gluing one "pair" at a time. On each set of ribs, we would measure leading and trailing edges to make sure both sides were the same. Nothing to hard about this part of it. Just take your time and make sure you can get everything as straight and equal as you can..........

paperairplanes

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Front shot of WS2 showing dowels in building board used to hold crutch in place. Also view of Chris's pride and joy, his homemade squares!!!! He was so proud of the idea!!!!!!!!!!!!

They do work great though!!!!!

Got to rib on him every chance I get!!! hehehe.......

paperairplanes

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Can you tell I took these pics at night?!?!?!

1. After ribs were glued, balsa temporary dihedral braces were added to outboard ribs (W7) to help hold alignment and dihedral. Also here we started gluing in our forward top wing spars. LOTS of clamps.........

2. ....... different angle.........

3. Forward top and bottom spars glued in, also rear top wing spar glued in. Can you say "hand me another clamp?"

paperairplanes

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1. Can you say clamp?

2. Same step, different angle......

3. Random shot.........

4. Anyone know what these clamps are used for? (besides gluing together a P38) They come in really handy!!!!!!

paperairplanes

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1. Next working day, all clamps removed. This thing is VERY SOLID!!!!!!!!!!

2. Different angle

3. Another angle

4. Underside shot. Lots of dihedral......

paperairplanes

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Heres another 38 I am building in my hangar. This one being the updated T version. hehehe......

My fav 2 birds along with the B25....

crashnburn

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Andy-where did you get those little clamps. What are they called. It looks like the top swivels over and the the clamp is twisted to tighten. Looks like something I should have in my shop.

CaptainHook

My Feedback: (80)

Excellent work, sure brings back memories looking at the pics.

Falcon Jet

Crashnburn,

Those little clamps you see are called "Cleco's", the clamps are spring loaded and take a special pair of pliers to open them. These clamps are used for aircraft metal work, which is my profession. When Paperairplanes and I ran out of clamps, I suddenly remembered I had these, so I got them out, they work great on smaller parts. Since the spring on these are pretty strong you can only use them on ply, they'll crush balsa.

Andy, hope to be back home in a few days. Hopefully now that the holidays are all but over with we can get in some serious hangar time!!

Chris.

jwreffner

Cool technique, but I'm pretty sure toulene causes cancer. If I were you I'd find something else to use in the future.

Just my 2 cents...

Jay

paperairplanes

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Lots of chemicals can cause harmful diseases if not used properly. Always ensure you wear protective clothing ( like gloves etc..) and ALWAYS use ventilation!!!!! (please dont try this in your closet). One other thing you can use is a respirator and safety goggles!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for lookin out for us though..........

paperairplanes

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Well today, we started back in on this bird after the holidays. It took a little bit to get back into the groove again with it. It was not too bad of a work day. We finished up with the spars and layed our temporary sheeting on top to help hold alignment. We then removed everything from our building board. We have a little touch ups to do, and tomorrow we will start with the frame installations........




1. The tab sticking out of the wing shown on the plans, has raised our attentin. Without instructions to this bird, it obviously warrants a little thinking. We are thinking it is used to help with the boom/wing attatchment. The big question is, it is not shown clearly on the plans as to how far inboard this piece fits. I would assume that it goes all the way to the next adjacent rib. Thats probably where we will put it.......


2. These are the cleco pliers in use..... these are handy!!!!!!!!!!


3. Noticed on the plans, the outboard rib sections of the flaps are shown as F4 a and b and F1 and b. They should be W4a and b and W1a and b.


4. The stack of clamps......... (I love clamps!!!!)

paperairplanes

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1. AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH........... been waiting to do this!!!!!!!! This thing is SOLID... Notice the temp. sheeting on top to hold alignment. Without it this thing did not budge when we unclamped it, but we put it on anyways......... WOOOHOOO, we finally get to hold it!!!!!!


2. random pic

3. random pic

4. We will be clamping the whole structure down again, once we have it aligned over the plans so we can start with our frames...... this part should go pretty quickly. With the previous steps of assembling the spars and ribs, TAKE YOUR TIME. This is a very important part of the airframe, as it needs to be STRAIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!

Scooby flyer

where did you get the kit? I've been looking for a 1/8 or 1/7 scale p38!

Your work looks excellent!

Falcon Jet

Well, Andy and I put in a couple hours last night. We carefully positioned F1, F2 and F3 (the removable nose piece) over the nose and used thin CA to "tack" on the stringers. Once those were in place we carefully removed the assembly, so far everything was perfect. Next step was to use wood glue on all the joints and let it sit evernight to cure. As I was sitting at my work bench applying the glue, the assembly slipped from my hands down into my lap. As I reacted I brought my knees together to keep it from hitting the floor, only problem was by the time my knees came together, the assembly was inbetween, yep, I crushed it! AAARRRGGGHHH!!!!!!!!![] As Andy (and all my neighbors), carefully listened intently to my verbal commentary about the matter, I calmed down and got another beer. I hate it when that happens!!! After I destroyed two hours worth of work I decided I was done for the night, probably a wise decision!

Oh well, minor details. All is not lost as the frames came out ok. Will attempt to do it all over again today.

Thought I'd share that with everyone as I'm sure many of you out there have experienced similar mishaps with fumbling fingers!

Will give another update soon.
Chris.