rt3232

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Hi guys

I don't have much experince in classing, and tryed to make my first set of doors, GOT A PROBLEM I am using pollyester risen, mixed first mix about 2 oz, brushed it on to mold it was thin enough that brush marks snothed out, let start to kick vary gently layed a piece of 3/4 oz cloth over the whole thing, one layer of 10 oz mat with 5 oz cloth on the back, when I pulled from mold, the gell or first coat was vary rough and cloth was showing thru, I was follow instructions given to me by the local class shop that does most boat repair,

any suggestion will be appreciated

Bob T

D Bronk

BOB if you have enough thickness(glass) sand it out , and then brush out a bit more resin..You could use an auto body filler(glaze) as too.Then prime with a good high build primer .That can be brushed on as well,and wet sanded for finish surface .If you have an orbital sander(mouse), use it for the initial sanding of the glass.BUT hand sand the primer wet, with a soft block wrapped in 400 grt paper.D.B.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Dave
Thanks for the info, will try to p/u on the way home from the H/D this after noon. Any sugestions on how to keep from doing asme in the outher mold by the way I am using a pva mold release and it fish eyes real easy is it to thick when it does that?? and pam as aparting agent

Again any suggestions

Bob T

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Man you're a brave one using the old school polyester resin. I've used about everything and think it's tough to beat unthinned Zpoxy using a dusting of super77 on the surface to stick the cloth down and keep the weave from spreading when applying the epoxy. I've not had good luck with polyester due to how brittle I found it to get over time, cracking, etc.. But, it can be a great finish I know.

I've thinned the Zpoxy too, as well as used WBP and still think the unthinned Zpoxy is my preference. It's tougher to sand, but it fills the weave most efficiently and I think I get by using less as a result. The Super77 dusting to the surface is a key little trick I learned from the IMP builders manual and is a huge help as it keeps the task of managing the cloth out of your hair. On a big airframe like this one, the mini detail sander sure does come in handing for the initial sanding. Too bad it's all round[].

wulf190

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Here's a shot of the engine install I settled with for the G62. Glassing is next for me.

rt3232

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Well it looks good I am just not sure I would trust that big engine out there. at least it is woth a try, just watch it vary close..

Bob T

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

I'll feel better with some socket head screws and some blue loctite on the threads, but it seems quite sturdy and I know others have used this setup with good effect, so we'll see how it holds up to vibration. I may end up using the hardwood blocks for a box yet. But these should do as well as the aluminum standoffs. I think I may wrap them with carbon fiber cloth for some extra stiffness up there just to be safe. I used the circular sander to get the ends flat and squared up so it's all pretty true and can be tightened down well.

ctflyboy

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RT3232

Have a quick question, How many lineal feet of air line will be required for the retracts in this bird?

Thanks in advanced,
George

rt3232

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Ctflyboy

I think I used about 7' of each color, but will measure tonite and give you a better ansure,

Thats assuming yo have the retractable tail wheel..


BobT

wulf190

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I think I used 2 packs of Robart air line on mine. Probably about 7 feet as mentioned.

rt3232

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Hi wulf190

My coworkers at The H/D tell me that I was old befor dirt got drity,[>:] any way I still like to build just haven't done a warbird scale, If you read the first this thread you know this current build is my second build and I am just trying to make it a little more scale I have addad some of Corsairjock and lukes ideas from there threads, I realy like to read there stouff as evein this old cote has learned some new things, I am having blast just duing stand off or as I call it fun scale, Well if I was 40 years younger, I might go full scale.

Bob T

PS> Any thing ie:suggestions hints to make this build better, Please offer them

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

wulf190

I did not go back but I am assuming the allen head bolts go all the way thru and you have a plate or at least fender washers on the back side of the fire wall Right???

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Bob,

I bought mine already framed up here on the site for a great deal. So I cheated on the build. I like what you have done with the flap connection and the slats. The wire I wasn't so fond of either, but it seems to work alright, so I think I'm going to stick with it and change later if its a problem.

I started sanding the wing last night, and say started as I now see it's going to be a bigger job. I started with the mini detail sander for the coarse work and now am reduced to elbow grease. Man, there's a lot of wing area on this thing. It's about as bad as my Pica Spit was on the rotator cuff. I'll do more tonight and hopefully get some glass on it tomorrow. The builder used CA on the sheeting and I knew it would be tough to get smooth, but it seems to be going alright, so I'll keep dusting up the house.

I thought about throwing the throttle servo up front on the front of the fuse somewhere to try to keep things ahead of the CG a bit, but I'll have to see how things look when I hook up the throttle and see what kind of action I'll need on the angle to the throttle arm.

I also made a huge score at ToysRus the other day. I was getting frustrated finding no Aero Details book available for the Corsair (I know it's out of print here in the US), and found a 1/18 scale plastic model of the F4U done in the Marines Dream color scheme from Elite Force. It's totally detailed on the cockpit, and has all the panel lines and stencils for reference, so I promptly sent out to Jim at Cal Grafx for a set of the stencils. So for all who are doing the plane in this popular scheme, he's got the goods on what's needed. Or, I can email anyone a list of all the different stencil markings needed if they want.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

wulf190

speaking of throttle's if you have not allready done it add the long lever arm to the engine it gives you much better throttle position control..my servo is fwd of the servo tray mounted to a side wall flex cable is glued therr also..Will post pic;s when I get back to the fuse, right now I am working on getting the barn doors to work just right..

Bob T

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

I've got a throttle kit for the Zenoah that includes all this stuff, so that's what I was planning on using on the arm itself. In fact, I think it's a nose wheel arm cut to fit. I'm guessing I just yank the spring loaded mechanism off there to put it on. Looks pretty simple, I just hate bellcranks.

I used 3/4" wide blind nuts on the firewall. The dowels are 7/8 hardwood. I got some carbon fiber cloth to wrap them with. The screws are 2 1/2" and just go all the way through the blind nuts when things are tightened down.

I'll finish glassing the top half of the wing today and start the fuse. Pics later this afternoon.

Mike

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

wulf190

Lets have some pic's of your hole project, its not important that you got it framed up Its what you do next!! if you have not finished the tail fethers you might go back in this thread and find corsair recomendation and mod to the wing tipsand topof rudder there both vary easy and do make your bird look more scale, I have done the rudder mod to mine, and will do the wing tips when I get them installed. Are you going to do acockpit? If you look at thread "CORSAIR COCKPIT DETAIL" or somthing like that you will see an OUTSTNDING piece of workman ship. I am using T/F's jazed up a little but not 1/10 of what Dion has done, he has tallent, I have to follow the instructions..

Bob T

PS Will try to post pic's of my L/G door progress tomarrow or sat, have to go to clube meeting tonite
,

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi every one

Well it time to post some pic's. For those just starting to think about gear doors (Mains and strut) asI found out they are not as hard to do, But do your home work befor you start. The following discription and pic.s is not the only way, its just the way I chose to do mine.
I would sugest reviewing post in this thread to ge you up to speed. #128,130,133,136, (VIEW Dave Platts Video's BF-2 & 3) #156,157,159, Luke's ( Royal corsair 60 project)


First pic is befor W/W box was installed, box size 5.55 rib to rib x 5.10 aft edge of spar to back of box

rt3232

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Sorry about the missing pic's

hear it is

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Remember to get the box rib's parallel to the swing axcess of the strut, and locate the gear assy as far fwd as posible

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Yes, good with the box setup for the doors, keeps things strong and tidy. That's pretty easy to do for me, even though my wing is already sheeted. I'm planning on adding CF strips on the retract rail ribs for some extra support there too.

I'm trying the finishing resin I got from Lone Star Balsa (from Smith Systems) for glassing. It's worked great with one coat so far. I'll have to sand on it some to see if it's thick enough to use only 1 coat, which would be nice. Seems like a light sand and some primer will do it before sanding it all down smooth before a real prime coat and panel lines.

Should have the rest of the plane glassed by the end of the weekend, then will have to start all the detailing issues, sliding canopy, doors, cockpit, dummy radial, guns, etc.

I've read through the above threads and posts and have some idea what to do and look for if I haven't changed some stuff already. One area I know to be suspect is the rudder torque rod insert on the rudder itself. I've reinforced the insert block with a small amount of heavy glass cloth, same for the elevator torque rod inserts as one of these vibrating loose would spell the end of things in a hurry.

I'll also have to look things over again to find out where to put the switch and valves and things. I may mount them in the cockpit somewhere inconspicuous. I'm using the stock TF cockpit and dummy radial that I'll have to dress up some. Also have a great GI Joe pilot for it that I'll have to lighten up by drilling some holes in I think. Any suggestions on the switch? I've not checked on the front of the fuse to see if there's any scale hatch locations I could use. Maybe the gas cap could actually flip open in front of the canopy, but that's a circular deal, so how best to do that I wonder??

Pics are coming I promise.

Mike

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

If you look page 3 or 4 maybe you can find the pic;s of what i did its a hatch with no handle held closed by 1/8 earth magnets, I got the switck ,charge jack and my air fill fitting, when I am all done I will add the head of a large silk pin just enough to catch your fingrg nail to open..


Bob T
















i

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

I've used the rare earth magnets before on hatches and they're very good. I used a 1/16 rod as a hinge glued to the fiberglass hatch cover with a balsa frame sanded to shape on my Spit, much like you did yours. I'll be using those on the canopy too I think, or maybe a BVM canopy latch.

Here's a couple of pics. You can see that the cloth lengths I've got left just a little bit uncovered in the center section[>:]. Now I have to put a small piece in and fill there. But, using the Super 77 on the wing made glassing the gull section a breeze, keeping the cloth stuck flat and neat while I put the epoxy finish on. You can also see how much our control surfaces look alike.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

A couple more...

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Bob,
I have not gotten that far with the fuse to check the distance between the fuse & cowl.


George

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

George,

It should be right, I threw the cowl on over the front to see about how the fit would be and it looks like it should fit well when I actually mount the cowl.

Sent you a PM on the canopy install. I'll post pics of the setup when I get to it. I'm using D'balsa rails.

Here's a shot of the excellent plastic model I got of the plane at ToysRus