ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

They're HS-55's for the air valves, one for the canopy and one for the retracts.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

I started on the wing fillets. I made a saddle out of 1/64 ply and epoxied it to the fuse side, then made some 1/64 ribs to match the countour. In the bigger bays, I prefilled as much as I could with foam and filled everything in with epoxy/microballoons.

While that sets up I started on the gear doors. I cut out the shape of the door in the wing then cut out the final shape of the glass door I laid up before. I mounted the door to the strut and made sure everything fits well. I just need to make some final adjustments to get it to lay flat, an on to the other side.

windsurfer

My Feedback: (37)

Perhaps it may be too late for the stab, but I just came across to your thread.
I will be building the same aircraft with a completely hidden stab control.
What I am about to suggest is an old invention often applied to actuate the wings of gliders.
This is how it goes:
(1) Remove the servoarm and attach a cylindirical metal rod to the servo motor shaft in the same rotational axis. As the motor rotates approximately 180 degrees in each direction, so does the attached rod. In other words, the motor shaft is extended by the cylindirical rod.
(2) Attach a 45 degree piano wire to the other end of the rod.
(3) Now, the entire assembly has to be attached into the stab in a horizontal fashion. The piano wire has to extend beyond the stab to actuate the rudder. With this configuration, as the motor rotates, the piano wire has to sweep half a cone.
(4) Confine the piano wire between two G10 plates in the rudder without any slack; make sure to shape the end of the piano wire like a ball so it will not bind, scratch or create an unintentional groove in G10 (graphite powder may also help here).
(5) Hinge the rudder; you are ready to go.
[8D]

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Windsurfer, that's a great method and I probably could have fit it in if I didn't have a retract tailwheel. The air cylinder takes up the inside of the whole fin from the wheel almost to the tip. I tried a spin-off of your method by routing a pull-pull to a crank that would turn the music wire, but it was too Rube Goldberg and I gave it up.

I finished the fillets and thought I'd put some pants on her and take a couple pics. Some final sanding and the fuse will be ready for glass.

nilsreinert123

Hi , you are building a nice plane!

I have a 6 lbs heavy 4.0 ASP 5 cylinder radial engine ,and is looking for a fw 190 for it. Do you think the weight of 6lbs is to heavy for this model?

windsurfer

My Feedback: (37)

I am sorry, I am a little late to respond. What I have been talikng about has been commercialized; it is relatively chep to buy the entire system or the components for your next scale project. Here is the link:
http://www.irfmachineworks.com/rds/
Many many people besides me thinks that it works beautifully.
I also purchased some hidden control actuators from Hobby Lobby (CH 901); they are all made out of plastic and does not worth anything (I will return them on Monday). They used to be called Beckman Hidden Actuators until Hobby Lobby decided to go cheap on people [:@].
Rotary System is the only viable alternative at the moment without any slop or any complex linkages.
I hope this helps .

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

Here is the state of my Platt FW 190 - now fully primed and ready for final paint which will be Hans Dortenmann' Red 1. Looks like your doing a great job and will be curious how she performs. It looks as though you have been trimming weight out in many places, including the forward structure - I have a Moki 180 with a Solo 3 bladed variable pitch prop which, with the adjustment mechanism weighs in at about 20oz and to get the CG correct I still had to add 16oz of lead up front - have you considered this in your build and will you have to add weight as I did or will your batteries in the nose section be sufficient.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Spit, you're FW looks great, hope mine comes out that nice. These are awesome airplanes, maybe not the sleekest, but there's no mistaking what they were built to do. I haven't been too weight concious, I only took out structure where not needed, especially in the nose, and plan to use more batteries as needed to balance it out. I expect the AUW will hit about 18 lbs. I used to worry about the weight with electrics, I even got my Somethin Extra down to 3 1/2 pounds, but it flies like a kite. I want this to fly like a warbird, and with todays batteries and performance you don't really need to worry about the wieght any more like you used to. I've been trying to shift things around as I go to get the balance right. Before glass, the cg is about a half inch behind the plans. I picked up a couple more DeWalt batty packs to give me some more cells to build a pack that's just the right weight up front. It may come out to 12S2P, not a problem, just more power that way.

I like the 3-blade prop, and will go there eventually, once I get the power worked out. How did you adapt the solo hub to the spinner with a center-screw?

Windsurfer, I understood your rotary drive explanation, in fact I used them for the ailerons in my P-38, they work great. But no room in the tail of this plane for it. The only possible way is to put the servo in the tail behind the retract cylinder, but there might not be enough room for that either. That's why I tried to make a pull/pull cable to the rotary shaft in the tail, but it was too flimsy. I have some of those Hobby-Lobby swingee hinges too, I don't think I'll ever use them either, even though that's what Dave shows on the plans.

Nils, I'm using about 5 1/2 pounds of motor/battery/ESC and it will still take a few more cells to balance, so I think a 6 lb motor would be no problem. You can probably fit about a 9 1/2" diameter inside the cowl.

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

Ampeater - Carl at Solo Props will put any thread you want into the prop retaining nut for Spinner retention - in my case I had a 1/4-20 tapped hole for the spinner retaining screw.
John

nilsreinert123

Hi
This kit is now on the way to me ,including retracts and all ,so it will be an interesting "platform" for my 5 cyl. radial engine!
What servos are recommended in the plan ,can standard servos be used? Also i see you built the fuse using that special vice ,can it be built directly over the plans? Did control surface horns and hinges come with the kit?
I just built the fw 190 d from topflite ,so i hope it is not much more complicated to build.

nr

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Nils, Glad to hear your kit is on the way, I hope you do a build thread! I'm using Hitec 225MG on the ailerons, and 645MG on the flaps and rudder, and JR DS811 on the elevator. My opinion is you want something heavier than standard on the flaps and rudder. Did you buy a precut kit? I just got the short kit directly from Dave Platt, included the cowl, canopy, spinner and gun hood. If I was going to use a radial, I'd be tempted to get a full cowl from Bob Holman since the Platt cowl is only the top half, and it would save a lot of work. You can build the fuse direclty over the plans by gluing 'stilts' to the crutch to hold it up off the table as you build, I think the instructions tell you to do it that way.

mobyal

Nils --
Everything went out of here first thing yesterday (11/27) am. Short kit/accessories/plans/retracts in one box and the kit in another.. Let me know when it gets there...
I too hope you'll do a build thread.
Thanks again
Al

nilsreinert123

I have bought a per cut kit from precision cut kits ,and shortkit with retracts. As you can see i bought it from Al It is probably a good idea to use a full cowl for my set up ,i will try to mold a copy of the top half ,and attach it to the top. It looks like the firewall is at the front edge of the wing ,very short nose on this plane!

-Nils

marsellaise

Nice build. Here is something for those who want to build as per factory blueprints. The file attached compares the geometry of a Fw 190 D against a Ta 152 H. The original drawing is the standard German 1:10 scale. The link takes you to a site that specialises in original factory documents on CD and data DVD. Similar drawings for the Fw 190 A-8 are there as well - all supported with big scans of the factory documents. Any scale can be built including 1:1 per Flugwerk GmbH. On this project, the data could be used to for panel lines and surface detail although there is plenty more than that in the data sets - canopy consruction blueprints are in there for example. I'm hoping one day to build the A-8 and the Ta 152 in giant scale I hope, I hope…

http://stores.ebay.com/Flug-archiv-2...2QQsclZ1QQtZkm

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Can't tell much difference from the last set of pix, but it feels like I've done a lot. I added the bulges and blisters. Glassing is done and filled, and most sanding is done.

I like to use the method of mixing 50/50 z-poxy resin and denatured alcohol, then add an amount of hardener equal to the resin. A lot of people use a roller or roll over it with a roll of toilet paper to sop up the excess, but I always have a problem with the glass lifting when I do that. So I just brush it on with a foam brush, then use a card to scrape off the excess. That way the glass stays tight against the wood with no ripples or excess poxy. I used filler primer to fill the weave in the wing, but it was too cold out by the time I got to the fuse and didn't want to disrupt marital harmony by spraying in the house. So I used another batch of 50% cut z-poxy and brushed on a filler coat and sanded off the excess. It worked very well, filled the weave even better, and no smell. I may be stuck on this way of doing it.

I have just a few more spots where I need some spot putty. Then I'll place the guns in the wing, close up the retract bays, and make the cowl ring. Then it's ready for panels and panel lines. No shortage of little jobs to do.....

nilsreinert123

Where can i buy a full cowl for this plane ? I have checked the Holman web site ,but cant find anything there.

I am soon ready to skin the wing now ,have finished the flaps an all the mechanics. Do you have the airlines through conduits?

-nrg

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Nils, I believe that Bob Holman sells the cowl for the Don Lein FW-190 (same scale as the Platt), but you would have to call because it's not on his web site.

I didn't put in a conduit for the air lines, but looking back on it I probably should have rolled up a piece of paper and made a conduit for them.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

I finished priming the wing. For the fuse, the panel lines are masked, and I added aluminum panels and made some styrene panel hinges, so the fuse is ready for prime. I sprayed some RLM 74, 75 and 76 swatches from Tamiya paint and brought them to Home Depot to color match some quarts of exterior latex.

I guess I'm ready to cover the control surfaces so I can get them primed, then it's on to the paint.

Hopefully, she'll look something like this when I'm done:

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Hey Amp, really beautiful work you are doing there. Nice fit on the gear and doors. Don't mean to be a naysayer, but you might wanna consider either shortening your doors a bit, or cutting them into two pieces and making them slide per full scale, as from what I can see, it looks like you might have a clearance issue if the struts compress a bit on grass. Doing them in two pieces isn't crazy complicated, and you could leave them at the more scale size you have there already this way. The 190 handles awesome on the ground, but don't wanna see you have a 'kopfstand' to cause any harm to your sweet efforts on it.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Here's how that scheme looks on one....and also Heinz Bar's reserve plane in red 23....

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Wulf, nice pics, thanks for the inspiration.

I saw the sliding doors on another thread and was going to do that, but I was gonna try and put off some of that extra stuff until after a couple flights (like finish the cockpit, aerial mast, ETC rack..... But the grass field I fly off isn't all that smooth, so I'll probably take your advice and do it now otherwise I'll probably regret it. You know how that works.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Am finishing up the Platt 109 at present, and see that the 190 lays out much the same way. Being they're pretty much a plans built job, it shows off your handiwork nicely I think. I kind of made more mentally out of the door slide thing than it ended up being, finishing and thinking, 'hmm, that wasn't as bad as i thought it would be". I love the ETC rack on the bird, as it's so long and prominent on there. I picked up my tank and mount from Graham in the UK...here's a shot of it in it's present home on the 109...

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Nice work Wulf, I've been checking on on your thread at RCS.

Everything is primed and I started painting the bottom of the wing and fuse. Is it my eyes, or is RLM76 almost an exact match with gray duplicolor primer? I can hardly tell the difference and had a hard time seeing where i might have missed.

Looks like I'll be needing a new air gun. The cheap harbor freight one I've been using is giving up the ghost, and the schrader valve on my 35 year old badger I'm using as a backup barely works any more.

Williams Bros. wheels are on order and I'll finish up the pants and retracts once they get here.

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

Ampeater - thought you might like to see the status of my Platt FW190, Hans Dortenmann's A8, Red 1 which I completed a few days ago. Just a few items to finish up before engine runs and taxi shake down - hoping for first flight in April.

Rebel Flyer

A buddy of mine just bought a Platt 190 here in the Twin Cities. This is nice. I dont know the history of this plane. It looks like Dave built it himself. Got it real cheap at an auction here. ST3250, standard bellcrank setup for flaps and aileron, with standard servos. Scale static prop with fan blades. Never been flown. 15 pounds.

Rebel