rayjr

Ampeater,

Do you happen to have a list of the Balsa and Hardwood that you ordered? Also, "Where" do you prefer to order from?

Thanks Again,
Ray.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

I'm pretty sure I still have my receipt with the list, but I ordered from Lonestar and they're out of business, and I combined an order for this wood plus an me-109. But I'll take a look and see what I can find.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

I found the reciept, I was wrong. I thought I had combined some wood for an me-109, but it looks like it was only for the FW. This will give you a starting point, but there are a few more things that I already had on hand that you'll also need. Like 1/4 inch ply, you'll probably need a piece about 6 x 24, IIRC, you can double check that on the plans for the firewall area. I also used about a 12x48 sheet worth of 1/64 ply for the aileron, and elevator skins. You'll also see a few bundles of sheets on the list. I didn't use all of that, but I needed almost that much so it was worth just getting the bundle and having some extra on hand.

Since Lonestar went out of business I've been buying from Balsa USA and been pretty happy with them.

Hope this helps.

rayjr

Ampeater,

Hey thanks for the list! I'm gonna be a real pain in the ^%*! and ask you another question. I've been out of the hobby about twenty years now. I've scrached built a number of planes. I used carbon paper over cardboard to make the templates, do you have a better way to make the pieces? Thanks again for the help, You can teach an old dog new tricks!!!

Ray.

JL1

My Feedback: (93)

I use freezer paper. Plastic on one side, paper on the other. It is semi transparent so you can trace your part onto the paper side easily. Then, using a low heat ( you have to experiment a little ), you iron the plastic side onto your wood. It sticks there and then you can cut and sand the part to final shape. I also have had good luck scanning my part into the computer then putting a piece of freezer paper (cut to 8 1/2 X 11) into the printer and printing my parts directly onto the paper side of the freezer paper.

rayjr

Hey that Freezer Paper works well.......Thanks. Ampeater, I noticed that your Elevator was "Hollowed Out" per original did you make that from lite ply w/ Balsa Ribs? Also the Plan calls for the Flaps made completely from G-10. Did you find that necessary? Can you tell me
"How" you made your?

Thanks.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Ray, If I remember right, the plans called for a 3/32 balsa elevator core with ribs on each side. Instead, I blew up a three-view to the right size and made 1/64 ply friskets with 3/32 ribs in the center. I was trying to be a bit more scale-like, but by the time they were covered and painted, you couldn't tell what the friskets look like anyway. I did the flaps to the drawing, I used G-10 (I think it is 0.020"). I got a sheet of the G-10 from McMaster Carr. Don't remember the price, but it didn't cost too much, and I still have a ton of it for some other project.

nilsreinert123

Have you guys flown the wulf yet?

I bought my platt wulf over one year ago , after some building , i got in touch with a good builder who converted my kit into an epoxy fuselage ,and sheeted foam wing , he also increased the wingspan to 88" , i still have some buiding to do to finish it , but i think it looks great!
Also i think i can build it very light , time will show , and if it balance fine with the radial engine i will use it!

rayjr

Ampeater,

How did your Shindin Retracts hold up? I've got to make a decision on "What" manufacturer to use. I'd love to get the Sierra Set, but they are SOOOO Expensive! Does anyone have another suggestions?! This plane is a lot of *^%#! work and I want to make the right choice.

Thanks,
Ray.

rayjr

Ampeater,

I'm hoping this thread is not dead because I need your input. I'm at the dreaded RUDDER setup. I saw your PULL-PULL servo in the wing sattle. Where did you put the Rudder Horn and HOW Wide did you have to make it? Is your steering off the same cables I didn't see a seperate servo for the steering?

Thanks Again,
Ray.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Still here! I wanted to hide the rudder horn inside somehow, but there just wasn't enough room, so they stick out just a bit from the rudder, probably about a 1/4" on either side. I used one bellcrank for both the rudder and the steering. I used kevlar for the rudder line, but will have to replace the dubro rigging couplers with eye hooks since the couplers can cut thru the kevlar. I used steel leader for the steering though since it has some stretch to it for taking up some tailwheel shock.

Unfortunately, I can't speak to how the Shindins are holding up, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy another set, they're very sturdy. No first flight yet, I haven't even been able to make it out to the flying field since last fall. My truck is out of commission for a while, I finally got the head off the milling machine this weekend to put in some helicoils where exhaust studs broke off. A couple more weekends to finish the truck, then the nice weather will be here, and it's back out to the field!

rayjr

Ampeater,

Thanks for the info. I hope I didn't make a BIG mistake!? I went for my LUNGS and bought the Sierra Retracts for my plane. The Tail Wheel Setup is completely different. I noticed in this thread that you had some trouble getting the Tail Wheel Fork to clear the fusalage. The Sierra Fork is 1.5" across and will require me to eliminate the Crutch completely, along with the 1/8" side planking to get the tail wheel to retract!? I was wondering what your FORK measurement was across? I'm thinking I may have to modify the FORK HOOP to make it Narrower. I noticed that you are from N.J. I'm in Rockland County NY (Rockland County Radio Control Club).

Thanks,
Ray.

R/C Ray

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Guys,

Does anyone have a good Cockpit Kit for this FW 190. I'm at the point where I need to make a decission on the Cockpit. Also, I was looking at Spitpilots' FW 190. It appears to have Sierra Retracts, just wondering if I could "Pick his Brain" on the installation of the Main Gear? I don't want to "Reinvent the Wheel".

Thanks,
Ray.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Try Dynamic Balsa for the cockpit. I've done 6 of their cockpits, 3 of the FW ones. Good stuff.....or for totally over the top awesome, check InZpan out...yowza it doesn't get any better than those...and totally prefinished already.

Mike

R/C Ray

My Feedback: (6)

Has anyone seen this cockpit from DynaScale? Its real reasonable at $43.00? I know you get what you pay for, But paying $150 for a plastic model kit seams a little EXTREME!

R/C Ray

My Feedback: (6)

I hope that this tread is not dead. I'm having real issues installing the Main Retracts in the wing on this Platt FW 190. Sierra tells me that he has customers that have used his product in the Platt 190. It appears that I would have to cut into the top skin of the wing to have the wheel consealed in the wheel well. I don't think the Fusealge is wide enough to cover the wheel purtruding through the Top Skin.Has anyone installed the Sierra Landing Gear in this Plane? My immediate Problem is getting the Gear to sit down in under the wing skin. Then I'm concerned with the location of the wheel at the Leading Edge with the Gear down. I had to give up on the Williams Bros Ballon Wheels because they are too wide. I was forced to order the Sierra Wheels that are more narrow, but they appear to be taller than the 5.25" that the plan allows? I noticed Ampeater had used the WB wheel with success. PLEASE, I would appreciate your input and experience with the Retracts on this Plane.

ampeater

My Feedback: (1)

Ray,

I used the Shindins with the WB wheels. I got it to work, but it just fits. The WB wheels have a better contour. I had to remove the plastic bosses from the wheel hubs and grind some off the strut side bottom to make it flat to the hub. When all is said and done I don't think a hair will fit between the wheel and the wing skin.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

It's the same thing on the Holman models too Ray. A really tight fit on pretty much any gear you use. I have Shindin's in a Holman and an IMP 190, and Barton's in another 190 and all of them have the wheels barely fitting in there. It's tougher to get the doors on because the strut is then so close to being flush with the wing surface in order to get the wheels to fit. You are not alone my friend.

R/C Ray

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for the response! You guys are the Best! This plane is kicking my A*&%! I've come to the conclusion that the Scale Wheels (Much Thinner) are my only option. I think the Sierra Gear must be Bulkier than the Shindin Retracts. I'm going to "Turn Down" the tires on my friends lath to get them closer to the 5.25" Dia. I also had to cut into the upper skin of the wing to get the clearance. I'm hoping that the Fuse will cover the clearance holes.

Thanks Again.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Ray, The WB balloon wheels need a little more room than the smooth contour style I found. I couldn't use the balloon ones on my Platt 109G and had to go w/ the smooth contours to get them in. They're even a tighter fit than the FW ones. Curious though that you couldn't get them in without cutting the sheeting out. Got any pics? Might help to see your options. In the down position, the wheel axles should probably be about 18 1/2" to the trailing edge of the wing or so on the Holman's, and I would guess that's about the same on the Platt.

M.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

this is an IMP Fw190 , mods were made the gun sight was scratch build , small parts were added but for the cost the value is second to none

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

I meant to say this is the IMP -"interior kit" , the FW190 is an CMP I think the IMP interior kits are a better value then the DYNamic Balsa

signguyandy

My Feedback: (3)

Can anyone recommend either the Dave Platt short kit or the American Eagle kit. I've built a TFCorsair (all balsa and stick), and was looking for something a LITTLEmore challanging. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

I think the "Tom Pierce " website show a complete build of the american eagle Fw190 with major scale mods , ifs this is the correct model you will be happy with that kit

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Tom Pierce's FW is from the Jack Dorman kit. (all foam construction) Still a very interesting and informative read as is his site on building the Bates SBD.

http://www.tompierce.net/home/home.htm

I imagine either of the two kits mentioned would be a bit more of a challenge than the TF kit if for no other reason than because neither will have the step-by-step instructions found in the TF kits. My choice would be the Platt 190 because I prefer wood construction and I like my airplanes to have a bit more scale fidelity than the AE kits provide. That's just my .02 cents though!