GSK

It Should give a kick as It initializes,

Try turning It on In heading hold. It should centralize the rudder on start up

kahloq

I always turn it on in heading lock mode. It does not do anything to the rudder but memorize its position when centered if its already centered. If it isnt, then the servo would go to default neutral anyhow.

GSK

Ok : when you turn It on and the rudder is centered Is the horn on the servo a 90 degrees?
If It goes hard over at start up I would think that you do not have the linkage set up correctly

Suggestion : disconnect the rudder , turn It on then set the horn to the center of the servo , check for travel both ways ,If that is OK It should be right from then on .

They always give a slight kick on a Heli

kahloq

AS I mentioned previously, it only pushes hard over on the rudder if the gyro doesnt initialize properly and it doe NOT do this everytime it doesnt initialize correctly. The linkage is fine. This gyro does not give a kick to the rudder when first powered on, regardless of whether in heading lock or not.

Everything is working properly on the servo, horn, etc. Sometimes the gyro just does not get its bearings correct, thats all.

rstearman

My Feedback: (185)

I have a 3w 24, and would like to known if anyone has tried one in the H9 Mustang? The engine weights just under 3 pounds, and turns a 18x8 Menz 8400 at rpm. Should be a good fit. What do you think?

kahloq

Ok...here are some pics of the gyro install. I moved it from inside the fuse where it wasnt possible to see the red light to behind the pilot seat in a recessed shelf I built. Its then covered with a square piece of plastic painted with transparant black to block most of the sunlight.
So much better now. In fact, I tested the visibility of it and on the first initial power up, the gyro didnt initialize right and went to steady blinking mode. No kick of the rudder either. So, since it was easy to see the light, I simply turned the power off and back on and viola

Last pic shows the light on and steady

M64

what are you using a gyro for?

captainron

Well, WARBIRDS OVER DENVER WAS A MAJOR SUCCESS!! I got to fly my Frankie once on Saturday. It was a great flight. The Keleo exhaust was hanging by thread after the first flight so we didn't go up again. I'm getting to know her better and better. The Jeffco Aeromodelers put on a great event. 10 of us from Pueblo, (SKY CORRAL RC CLUB ) showed up and had a great time. The weather stayed perfect throughout the weekend. If you where thinking of coming, even for one day and didn't because you didn't want to pay the full event fee, SHAME ON YOU!!!!!! You missed a hoot of a time.
Over 100 pilots where registered by 9:am Saturday and all got to fly who wanted to. Everything from WW1 FOKKERS to the mighty F-22 RAPTOR fighter jets where in the air all three days from 8am till dusk.


Great job to all the hearty crew who put this awesome event on!!!!! THE BIRDS OF PREY BOYS FROM PUEBLO WILL BE BACK NEXT YEAR!!!



DANG! I LOVE THIS HOBBY............................................. ....................................CAPTAIN RON.

kiosk

My Feedback: (14)

i have had a couple of "tip-stalls" with frankie, one of them lead to some damage......I've only been flying for 6 months but this one plane out of 5 i have owned where experience this, any expert tips how to prevent it? I will admit the one time lead to damage I was dead-sticked also.
if feels as if one has lost radio control of the model, but I read a few threads back a tip stall feels just like this

GSK

Warbirds drop a wing very well when flying far too slow!
I always go up and test the stalling speed and It,s flying characteristic's on the test flight . This will give you the confidence to recognize the start of the stall before it happens .
Bet it drops the left wing ,mine does and spins very well .
Do this a few times and it will help you to recognize and prevent it before It happens .
All part of model flying ,just do not panic , it will always recover provided you have the height .
The other thing Is keep the speed up and fly it down onto the strip when landing , stretching the flare is not the thing to do,keep It level and it will sink in nicely.
Get used to using the rudder , you really need to do this to gain the skills of landing with a cross wind and take off.

kiosk

My Feedback: (14)

thanks, was the left wing both times for sure, I thought I had lost radio or aileron servo.

can gust x-wind also push you into a tip stall? I think the one time had strong xwind because was full throttle upwind

GSK

I would not think so , your speed would be well up .
Check your C/G , keep it forward a little .
Also check your elevator setting , a sudden application of elevator can stall it at any speed if you have too much,Knock it back until you have suuficient to do nice smooth loops etc .
This should help

crashproof

Lets say you are coming across the field left to right and the X wind is blowing across into your face if you tip that left wing tip down that x wind can catch all that wing surface and try to push that left wing down. You really must always be concious of all these things when flying. I try to always stay ahead of my warbirds its better that way than to try and catch up. Kevin.

Rip n Bank

Kiosk,

Were flaps extended during either tip stall? If so, partial or full?

I've never had a tip stall, including (and perhaps, especially) under a full-flaps landing, and some of those have been amazingly slow.

Rip

kiosk

My Feedback: (14)

no flaps that I can recall....

I think GSK is right on because I think I didnt have my expo set on my full rates and maybe was sudden elevator move...here are both scenarios better described

1) High altitude downwind leg, engine was running rough and quit, dead stick, I tried a slow descent since was far from runway but then it tip stalled left wing and spun rather violently straight down....eventually I recovered out of it but was a close call....landed on grass way off the field - no damage

2) Full throttle take off, long upwind run gaining good altitude.....then went to make my left crosswind turn and it tip stalled again, no particular reason (expect as GSK could been sudden elevator move since didnt have expo setup), no so lucky this time...managed to pull up but too hard and then stalled again into ground, took out the prop, bent spinner, one retract...looked much worse


so now am a little worried about my Frankie and his rookie pilot!

GSK

MMMMMMM, Even so I would think that the C/G might be a little to far back If It did that , I can climb very steeply after take off .
what motor are you using ? Sounds a little under powered .
Model is normally pretty stable under full power
How much throw do you have on The elevator ?

Tisoy909

My Feedback: (21)

Kiosk,
I too had a tipstall with Frankie, it was on full flaps as well. The thing to keep in mind for my own note is that this plane is much heavier than my 60 size warbirds. What had happened to me was because it happened after flying my 60 size H9 spit, and I think I was probably creating this long flat approach that i had been doing all day with my Spitfire. The approach i made was too long and flat. and basically when i was over the threshold i bled off way too much airspeed and naturally one wing fails to lift, and it was also my left wing. Despite all the balancing i did its not going to make much difference if theres just not enough air passing over the wings, inevitably it stalled. I noticed how others in the thread spoke of using a higher than normal approach and i think this is good as it keeps up the airspeed and still you can deploy full flaps its just getting used to different necessities in approach speed of the different planes that got me into that mess. the damage wasnt too bad, and i didnt take pics of it becaise as soon as i got home i started piecing the wing back together. The main thing i learned is to keep that airspeed up, avoid long shallow approaches and that all mustangs have to be flown to the runway not glided in. As for the C.G. its spot on as per specs of the manual.
Louie.

Heres my Frankie after tuning, did some throttle linkage adjustments and got the onboard glow to actually work after this session was done.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yl0CkHag7I

kiosk

My Feedback: (14)

GSK I have the Saito FG36, plenty of power I think.....I have the throws and CG as specified in the manual, never have changed it, was just a tad nose heavy, not much at all, I did have to add lead on the tail to counter for the motor weight and spinner (5'' tru turn)

I have found the flaps not to be too helpful sometimes on landing......specially with strong headwind?

Rip n Bank

Louie,

Your conclusion is right on: one does not want to bring Frankie (or any warbird, for that matter) in for a landing using a long, low, "on-the-prop" approach! If not a guaranteed, then certainly an inevitable, tip-stall.

Base-to-final should be "surprisingly high" (there's a technical term), drop the throttle to 1/4 or slightly less, and use the barn-door flaps (FULL!) to prevent the speed from building on a STEEP final approach to the threshold. There, I flair to level a few feet off the ground, cut the throttle to idle, and let her gradually settle on the mains. The moment the mains touch, I release E and steer her down the center-line with the rudder, letting the tail settle eventually on it's own. You do not want to force the tail down with elevator!

As for Kiosk's comment about a strong headwind, the two big worries there (when using full flaps, still) is having the final glide slope end well short of the threshold, and ballooning back off the runway if you "force" her down with too much airspeed.

In such a headwind, turn downwind-to-base early, and with the usual steep descent angle, she'll be pointing some distance down the runway beyond the threshold, but will still drop shorter due to the headwind. I often will stay in the throttle just a bit more, to make sure she makes the threshold without making her descent angle shallower, and then be sure to bleed off any/all the excess speed after flairing while level a few feet off the runway to prevent ballooning after touchdown. Again, once down, especially with a headwind, do not push the tail down with elevator!!

Rip

GSK

O:K I thought It had all the symptoms Of being tail heavy .

Good Idea to throw a heap of Expo I use 40%to 50%.
I love the flaps, Big help on landing . I now come fairly steeply down on half flap, then just short of the end of the strip throw in full flaps .
Just stops it in It,s tracks ,Great !. I also feel by reading from the odd post that there is a little difference in the airfoil shape between the wing halves , as most seem to want to go left on the stall and some has to be trimmed right for normal flight also .

I will not fly It again until The retract,s can be replaced ,
I am very disappointed with HORIZON for allowing such poor quality to be associated with their product.

kiosk

My Feedback: (14)

I have the FG-36 Saito Gasser now in Frankie....took a little bit to tune it just right (my first gasser) after a couple dead sticks. I am happy with it but seems quiet or kinda boring for the P51. I am thinking of using that motor on a H9 Extra260 instead and looking at the Saito twin cylinder FA200 for Frankie. I figure with the twin 4-cycles will sound really good, just regret go back to nitro....anyone have any opinion or experience with the Saito twin line?

frisconick

I know a guy that had the 200 twin in a GS World Models P-51. I never saw it fly. He couldn't keep both cylinders lit for some reason. He was not happy with it. Ended up selling it and the plane. I would guess it would sound great, but perform less than the single 180???

FWIW..

Nick

kahloq

Twin cylinder glow motors take more time to break in, but once done, the usually operate very smoothly. Of course, on any twin cyl motor, onboard glow is a must. I had the saito 90 twin and it sounded really ncie when running, but had issues keeping cyl running at first. But, with onboard glow and one that is user selectable for settings(like McDaniels), you should set the on point at least at 1/2 throttle or higher. If one cyl does drop, you dont want the remaining cyl struggling to stay running at 1/4 throttle cuz you'll lose speed really fast that low.....trust me I know as I lost a graupner Extra 300 as a result. I would actually st the onb point at 3/4 throttle foe the twin 200. If one does drop, the momentum of the other one running will relight it at a decent speed(3/4).
Other then that, yes the 200 will fly the plane ok. I would use a slightly higher nitro like 20 or 30% as long as the manual says its ok.

M64

kahloq, just out of interest, what are you using the gyro for?

kahloq

Since you came in late to the discussion I'll repeat why

The purpose of the gyro install is to test whether it can keep the plane straight down the runway on a roll out/take off attempt.
For some reason, my P-51 acts very squirly compared to Rip's and ive attempted to do anything i could to lessen that without much success. So, maybe the gyro can keep the plane straight since it should be able to react instantly to a yaw movement where my eyes wouldnt see it right away...thus I might overract and input too much rudder or not enough IN TIME whereas a gyro should only put in as much as is needed to maintain the heading the heading hold lock was set for.
I am sure it will take a few test runs to get it nailed down really well before I trust it completely to keep the plane straight hands off.