STICK MODE

Estang what retracts have you got in the bird ?

Estang

stock ESM with Robart valve and hoses

STICK MODE

humm thought so fit sirrea you wount look back i used esm retracts on another one i built for a guy they use the same metel that tooth paste tubes are made out off its just to soft, also check that other posting of mine and trim your retract covers back about 12 mm if you hold your plane level see the way the front angle is sitting that what will get snagged in any grass

SimonV6

I agree with Stick, I tried the stock ESMo nes, but didn't reckon much to them, I now have Sierra ones and they are so much better

kahloq

Ive got the ESM retracts in several different planes and they work fine. Those bolts....you need to ADD locktite!!!!!! I agree Sierra is better, but the ESM work fine.

ESM P-51B esm gear
ESM ME-109E Sierra gear
ESM Me-109E esm gear(2nd plane...both still flying)
ESM ME-110 esm gear
ESm fw-190A esm gear

Ive not had one failure just locktite all the bolts and use silicon tape on the air cylinder threads.

I do have Sierra gear on other non ESM planes and am happy with them.

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

What are you guys using for wheels besides the heavy metal esm's? Got one on the way and putting the list together now. Are you guys painting the swastikas on the tail?

kahloq

I have some vinyl decals of swastikas I had made by Callie-graffix in various sizes, so Ill use those. I had a ton of decals made for a Balsa USA DR-1 done up and at the same time had her make some swastikas and the total price was only $30 including shipping.

I also have the ESM wheels as Im not paying $100+ for glennis for this plane

SimonV6

I am using the heavy metal ESM's painted black I made my own decal of the swastika for the Tail


Simon

kahloq

Im niot even using the tail wheel assembly ESM provides as the wire weakens over time. I found this out on my first one. Instead, Im uisng a 120 size tailwheel setup from hobbyking.

Revy

My Feedback: (1)

Sorry Stickmode, I put them in a box somewhere and can't find the friggen thing anywhere! 

irocbsa

My Feedback: (12)

I really wanted to put the XYZ 53cc twin in this plane as well, but I don't think there's any way that the engine will fit in the cowl. Have you taken any measurements?

Edit: Did some research and here's a quote from another post regarding the dimensions of the XYZ engine:


"It would be very tight in a 9"cowl. It measures just under 9"accross the spark plug caps approximately 1 1/2" above the prop shaft. (widest point is not level with the prop shaft). "

The width of the 70" ESM Fw-190's cowl at this point is 8.4". Looks some cutting would have to be done. I'm not sure it's a great option.

STICK MODE

The xyz is far to big for it Revy im currenty doing the ESM D9 with a xyz twin in it and the motor will just fit in.
my ESM190A8 runs the saito170r in her and that just fits with about 3 mm to spare on each pot a 30cc motor will power it with heaps of grunt to spare and still allow you room to fit it easy go to hobby king and see what they have i know the turangy 26cc is a real power house i have one in another plane here and is a grunter i used 2 battery packs placed right agenst the inside of the fire wall to get the COG right there the 4200 nmh packs from tower with them i had to add no dead weight to get the balance right heres a shot of her 94th take off i love this plane shes a keeper

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

So mine just arrived. I know I'm a few years late concerning this thread, overall I'm about 85% satisfied with the plane. I'm kinda surprised to see the massive gaps in the former/fuse side joints. To be honest, I don't see a huge improvement over the older CMP versions that GSP was selling 10 years ago. I had the corsair and it's pretty much the same quality. I also have a Tucano from nitroplanes that is the same exact build type.

I'm not saying that there were no improvements made, but I guess I just expected a little more. Still, I'm happy and looking forward to working on it.

STICK MODE

Firstly welcome aboard if I can be off any help PM me with your email and I can send pictures I took while building mine I did the cockpit kit and most of the mods where I felt I was not happy with it I also removed the gun hood and hid all the switches etc out of the way also I have just found another hobby site in china that are far better to deal with than hobby king they list the spinner for this dirt cheap https://www.sdshobby.net/Wholesale/s...s-1-sid-1.html the 3 inch one I replaced most of the hardware etc but have ended up with a better plane flys nice ( use the sky ) ignore there settings for throws and you will have a ball cheers Frank

DougB1

My Feedback: (11)

Where did you put your switches and charge jacks and the air fill for the retracts.
Thanks

STICK MODE

Picture tells a thousand words get a very thin exaco knife and carefully find the thin part of the gun hood where it attaches to the fuse slide the blade under and your on your way don’t worry about scratching it work the knife slowly around the glue holding it don’t over force it you will end up with the hood removed sand glue edges carefully and fit back on dry the gun hood will expand a wee bit I placed wooden formers in side later to stop that and also to fit the catch and pin the other end. the paint I used was humbrol satin123

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

Thanks, It'll be a bit before I actually dig into this one and like I said, I still like the plane just a bit taken back by some of the workmanship. The outside looks great, the wings seem fine its just the inside of the fuse thats a bit ugly. From what I understand I'll cutting away that former anyway to install the cockpit kit. Not sure if you can tell from the pics what I'm talking about.

Dowmer

My Feedback: (1)

MPizpilot,
Take a look at my build / overhaul thread on RCSCALEBUILDER.COM . I have pictures and talk about installing a cockpit kit and various other mods. Hope this helps.
As far as the quality goes, I felt the same. Be careful, I actually poked my finger through the side of the fuse at the former at the back of the cockpit. Very thin. I reinforced with fiberglass on the inside. I figure you get what you pay for. Over all very good for the price but it pays to reinforce and add details. Still a good ARF overall.

http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...536&PN=1&TPN=1

Jason

STICK MODE

i would go with Jason below your right that former gets cut out a fair bit to fit the cockpit but easy to reinforce check out Jason,s site lots of pics to give you some direction cheers Frank

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

just a quick tip for removing the gun cover from the fuse, if you use one of those segmented exacto knives and extend it out so it reaches all the areas that are glued you will get a clean release of the hood

I went after mine with a regular exacto knife and it didn't reach all the adhesive areas, and I did damage the hood just a little bit, when I reinforced the hood with a light weight fiberglass cloth I repaired the small tears by gluing them with CA, then like stickmode I made ribs to strengthen the hood and double as a brace to secure the hood in place.

BTW I wouldn't have thought of placing the receiver in the gun compartment there stick I think I will use that idea looks clean, I have been really dragging on the finish details on mine, our club is redoing the strip and I have gone back to school, so my time is limited these days,but I try to do a little bit each week, I have nearly completed the area under the hood so that's what inspired this posting.

I also installed hinges in the gun hood so it just flips up when I need to flip a switch, I also made a light ply mounting area for the switches in the gun area, I will post some pics later when I finish

STICK MODE

Looks good Tim yeh there,s heaps of stuff yo can shove under that hood air rx etc and switches your spot on about the blade a thin long one and its easy one thing you wan to do is put another sheet of balsa where the wings join in the wheel wells its very thin just there easy to do if you need pics let me know mate tells a thousand words it means i have a easy way to pick up wing a fitting it to fuse is great Frank

Revy

My Feedback: (1)

Guess what I found! The cylinder measures 2-9/16" x 5/8". You are welcome to the whole units, chassis and all. Let me know!

frisco2022

My Feedback: (16)

Hello everyone, I have been wanting to build this plane for some time now and I have few questions for you all. First of all the wing! I noticed in earlier pictures, earlier meaning years ago the wing tips were not that scale. They seem to be angled at the tips not rounded like the real one. I have been trying to find a current picture that shows them but I cannot. I know they fixed the fuse near the tail and I was wondering if they fixed that too. Are the wing tips still angled? Second of all what engine? I know the DLE30 is perfect for the plane but I want it to be as scale as possible with the least amount hanging out. What are you suggestions?? Lastly I plan on repainting the entire plane. What have you all used that is fuel proof? I did read somewhere that a guy used the good old testers model master and then sealed it with a product from Home Depot but I cannot remember what. Any input would be greatly appreciated!!!!!! I plan on doing this one here.

DougB1

My Feedback: (11)

Has anyone found a good picture of the guns on top of the engine. I have went to countless sites but have not seen a really good picture of what they really look like. Also it looks like I'll have to paint those nice looking shiny wheels black like the real ones cause I have not seen any of them shiny looking. [&o]

Thanks

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

http://www.warbirdphotographs.com/LC...0-A3-14f+s.jpg

here's a decent one I cant seem to find the exact pic I used to reproduce mine, I used several pics from the squadron signal books I have as well as some reference books that I keep handy