Sheriff of Nottingham

I thought about this type of motor or maybe a Laser twin, the thing that put me off was the lack of weight in the engine. Loads of ballast would have been required to balance. As i say, the airplane is designed to take the Z38.

Sheriff of Nottingham

Managed to get first coat of under surface colour on today. Again, its Warbird Neutral Grey and its marvelous. Hopeing to get the second coat on next week sometime.

I have a old Devilbiss Sprite Major airbrush which as sadly bit the dust. I need a new one, but which one to choose is a job in its self, theres that many. I have looked at the Iwata range, are these as gud as they say??? I prefer a dual action cause thats what im use to... any body got any suggestions????

Cheers,


Frank.

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

no one replied[&o]So again what about the new OS 200 4/C for this gorgeous 72" Ziroli designed "JuG ? "

I'm quite curious because I have one for another project.

glycol

Frank, If you havnt already checked over at RCMF theres a great thread on fighter aces about the Iwata revo T2.

http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php/topic,46170.0.html.

I think theres an article about the same in one of the mags. No ones got a negative word to say about it and the best praise comes from guys who spray for a living. I'm going to upgrade but will have to wait later in the year for a significant birthday. At the moment I'm using a touch up gun and badger 150, but if I'm honest I don't find the slide control on the 150 easy to use for consistent fine line work. Don't practice enough between projects I suppose. Much prefer the pistol grip so can't wait to try it out.

I won't be fitting a retract tail wheel either. Going to keep it simple because I intend it to be my 'every day' model. It will get surface detail etc but not even sure about inner wheel doors yet. Looking forward to seeing your system and you may convince me to go for it. Paints gone on great underneath. I've just finished using WBC and won't use anything else now. Keep up the good work.

Sheriff of Nottingham

Glycol.


Thanks for the advice. Didnt realise Fighteraces stocked em. Im looking towards the Iwata HP-BC simply because its a top trigger system and its capable of producing fine and large areas with heavy paints. The revo sounds the dogs ------- but the new trigger set up puts me off.


ramcfarland,

I think the OS 200 is a fine motor and would easily power this bird and its not a bad price,


Cheers ,

Frank

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

[quote]ORIGINAL: ramcfarland

no one replied[&o]So again what about the new OS 200 4/C for this gorgeous 72" Ziroli designed "JuG ? " ?????????????????

I'm quite curious because I have one for another project---------
It seems the Ziroli Thunderbolt at 72" using the reciently released OS200 four cycle would be a performer. Maybe I should find out...
[/quote

Sheriff of Nottingham

Problems,


Started to fit the Robart landing gear only to find that one of the cylinder assemblies is absoloutly knackered. I brought these straight from Ziroli 18 months ago and only examined them visually. Ive contacted Ziroli and he has told me to contact Robart which i have done. They are sending me a new cylinder and i will fit it myself. Hope this dosent take to long to arrive because the planes coming together quickly. Lesson to be learned here, always thoroughly check items upon arrivall.


Cheers,

Frank.

alpinestar

Hi gang
I'm framing up my 92" razorback & am at the pushrod installation stage of the fuse...... What are people using for elevator servos/linkage?? I'm considering mounting a servo in each side of the stab for a nice tight control; but am a bit concerned about fit, weight aft, and the structural strength of the stab with a servo hatch sized cutout in the sheeting right near the fuse. On the other hand; I'd rather avoid a long exposed length of pushrod coming out the side of the fuse as well... Are most people mounting the elevator servos in the fuse & using some type of flex rod (maybe with a wire inside to beef it up?)?

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

Good deal My 1/5 scale P-47 is SO heavy I avoid taking it out it is such a hassel...Thus my interest in the 72" span Nick Ziroli P-47

bentwings

Ziroli likes to use a pickle fork on the elevators. I don't know what your P-47 shows but I would guess that is what is on the plans. Other than the wire being heavy and the need for a good solder joint or braze joint, this is not a bad system. I think it is lighter than a couple servos in the tail. I make all control surfaced removable so the pickle fork is mounted in slip tubes in the elevator and rudder if used. I used 3/8 hardwood dowels with 4-40 threaded ends and Dubro rod ends on my Corsair and P-51. This worked very well. You could probably use Golden rods too. I did use a pull pull rudder and tail wheel on the P-51. This was done off an intermediate belcrank arrangement to give equal movement. I also drive the tail wheel retract with a pushrod and 5/8 air cylinder to keep from adding exra weight on the tail. Your tail is about 4:1 or worse on the P-47 so weight is important.

On the P-51 I didn't feel the tail surface mount was really strong enough to handle the high speed the 5.8 gives so I added a spiral pair of .005 carbon fiber strips over the top of the horizontal stab that wrapped around the fuse. If you are careful and get it down tight there will be very little filler required to blend in the CF. I also added this feature to the 118" B-25 after cutting out the waste gunner windows as well as some interior reinforcement at the rear of the wing.

I also use balance weights on the elevators, rudder, and ailerons to control possible flutter. The Corsair did not have them originally on the ailerons and it would eat up a servo about every 6-8 flights. The balance weights cured that.

alpinestar

Thanks Bentwings
Ziroli shows a u-shaped wire connector (1/4" dia!) between the elevator halves & a single pushrod driving one side. I'm thinking of using a seperate servo per control surface & have decided not to put the elevator servos in the tail. Now I just have to figure out what rods to use.... likely will need to be something sorta flexible or I'll have to make a slight dogleg in a rigid pushrod setup to make it work.
How did you decide how much weight to use to balance your control surfaces?? is the weight internal to the wing/stab/fin, like a fishing weight on a stick? Sounds like a good idea. My P47 will likely get out of it's own way quite well with the 3w-85xi in the nose.

bentwings

Ziroli likes to use "Golden rods" on some planes for the tail controls so that would be a good choice as they are not too heavy and they will bend a little. Just mount them pretty solid as you are building. Use the 4-40 ones. That chunk of 1/4 in pickel fork is pretty heavy way back there so the 2 serovs up front wil help with the balance.

I use about 75-80 % of the weight needed to arrive at a balance thru the hinge line. I don't really remember where this number cme from but I've used it for a long time. Mr. Hanson over on aerodynamics might be able to help out. The Corsair and P-51 have natural tabs built into the elevator and rudder so I just added tape weights then epoxied over them so they are permanent. The ailerons have a roughly "C" shaped 1/8 AC ply piece added to a rib facing forward. Again I added weights to these to get about 75-80 %. These do hang out slightly from the bottom of the wings however the weight is mostly inside the wing. The P-51 actually has them in real life but I didn't use the scale position as it was too small.

The P-47's of a couple other mfg have had flutter problems so I'd recommend adding this feature even though it is not exactly scale. Your big 85xi will haul some "donkeys" for sure. You may with some advanced trickery be able to add the weights to an extension to the control horn if it is inside the fuselage.

sleepy1099

Hi, Great model. I am intested in how you set up the retractable canopy. Do you have any pics that can detail it for me. I am building a 1/5th Topflite P47 and am struggling with the best way to handle the canopy. Thanks

Sheriff of Nottingham

Not really been doing a great deal recently. Im waiting on the new cylinder assembly from Robert for the retracts. Started to fit the radio gear and associated tackle. I am useing a single 4-40 Golden rod" as the plan suggests on the eles and rudder. Ive never had any problems with the set up providing its braced correctly.

Bentwings,

do you think it would be wise to add some balance weight to the ailerons on this size model??


sleepy1099


I dont have any close up pics of the sliding mechanism on the canopy but i will do my best to describe my method,


Firstly, i used K&S square section tubing for the guides. These were slotted with a dremel blade down the entire lenght to allow 00 Gauge Railway track to come thro. I then solder a brass square section to the rail and then this is glued to the canopy. The rail at the rear is again square section brass and slotted to allow rail to come thro. The rear canopy guides are then soldered to it and mounted to the canopy. I will take some detailed pics so you can see for yoursef. I ve added this one so you may get a rough idea.

sleepy1099

Frank, Thanks for trhat. Any pics would be great. I am struggling with weight spo looking for a light weight solution. I will keep in touch.

Selleri

Looking good Frank! I see Phil also supplied your landing gear

Sheriff of Nottingham

Sverrir G.

Thanks, yes i have had most of the items from Fighteraces, panel line tape, wbc paint and those lovely wheels. Really impressed with Phil, everything has been delivered the next day, and hes a top class person to deal with.

glycol

Hi Frank,

Did you manage to resolve the retract issues or is the project still on hold for a bit.

bentwings

I'd do balance weights on all the control surfaces. It can't hurt. Also seal them. I just a clear plastic tape. Nice plane.

Sheriff of Nottingham

Thanks Bentwings, i intend to seal all moving surfaces with some type of tape but unsure which to aquire. The retracts are sorted and the plane is now ready for its maiden flight, im just looking to upgrade my nicads. I have always used 4.8v but due to some large powered servos im going to upgrade to a 6 volt system. Trouble is, nobody seems to stock a dedicated slow charger, i do have a constellation charger but i prefer intial slow charges. Any suggestions on the types and amp amount would be appreciated. I also need to balance it, Ziroli says 4" to 4.5" back from leading edge of wing. I will try to get somewhere inbetween.

Will keep you updated on the maiden.


Cheers, Frank.

bentwings

I used a clear electrical tape. It was easy to remove yet sticky and flexible. All of my control surfaces are removable so it was just remove the pin and peel the tape off.

As for battery chargers there are any number of good ones. We are going to update all of ours. I'd get something that Ni, NiMe and LiPo capable and possibly a field charger if you fly a lot. I had battery backup on board on the Corsair and P-51. We have huge batteries planned for the B-25 as it has 15-17 high power servos and some are ganged. 6vdc with regulators and servo isolator plus backup. There is enough wire to do a whole house.

I first ran 6v nearly 20 yr ago when it wasn't cool. Even then I had minor jitter problems when the batteries just came off the charger. I had a pre-load resistor that I used to connect up for about 5 minutes to take the initial high voltage off the packs. Lots of battery management stuff but necessary back then. Now it' all taken care of with the 6 v regulator. You should not have any problems today. I would highly recommend a 6 v regulator however. It saves a lot of headaches. I also regularly cycled my batteries and kept accurate records of each pack. I also discharged them after each day so I knew how much I had used. By comparing to the cycling capacity I could gage how much time was available. I do use a loaded voltmeter too. It worked out pretty well. Just part of flying big stuff. I still have a 2 inch thick log book from the Corsair. Check list from every flight and every service in the hanger. Saved the day more than you would think.

Good luck on the upcoming maiden.

Sheriff of Nottingham

Thanks for the advice Bentwings. Obviously you have loads of experiance and i appreciate your advice. I do as you say with my excisting nicads, charge, discharge and keep log. I always label em as well upon purchase, better to be safe than sorry. I already have a Ni, NiMe and LiPo capable charger which is ace and is convienant, but i wish to purchase a 15-16 hour slow charger for 6volt batteries, but i cannot find a dedicated charger.


I am uncertain if we can use Lipos for our recievers? As i say, ive always used nicads.


Look forward to your comments,



Frank.

Sheriff of Nottingham

Hello All,

Test flown P47 today. Absoloutly brilliant[] It flies just like a fighter should and is what i expected. Final weight comes out at 19.8lbs so is very heavy but does not make a shred of difference to the flight character. It lands as though it only weights a couple of pound. Flaps were used on the second landing, these really slow it down but it does balloon a little so you have to compensate with ele trim. I used a Menz 19x10 prop which gives good performance but im going to switch to a 20x10.

All in all i have enjoyed all this project and would recommend it to anyone with good building experiance. Thanks to everyone for the input, it is appreciated. I will now completly finish the model and hopefully get a video of flying. My next project is definitly giong to be another Ziroli Warbird.


Thanks to you all,[)]

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Congrats! Are we going to see any finished and flying pics?

Sheriff of Nottingham

Yes Chad,

As soon as i have sorted a recorder i will hopefully get a video on here,

Thanks,

Frank