rack

My Feedback: (11)

the ups guy didnt have your?

NCIS

Have your what??? I finished up planking the front of the right side of the center section. I sanded all the putty smooth and then decided to install my gas garage heater so it would be ready for the contractor to run the line to it. I'll finish up planking the top tomorrow. I heard a joke today. Does anybody realize that a black man is still going to be living in goverment funding housing.

I just thought I'd pass that on. By NO means does this reflect anything negative about our President Elect Obama. I'm behind the man 100% as all good Americans should be.

Gibbs

rack

My Feedback: (11)

gear?

NCIS

I finished the planking of the top of the center section and then wiped it down with mineral spirits to get all the dust and residue off of it. It is now back safely in the basement shop ready for the install of the retract's rails. They are 3/4"x3/4"x6". I'm going to have to rip them down and make indents in them for the gears hardware in the drawing I got from Darrell. I'm also going to use small wood screws to hold the rails for testing the fit and also when I epoxy them in.

Gibbs

NCIS

I timed out. I am also putting my air valve and servo in the wing facing the bottom so I can get to it through a hatch. Since the center section is going to be permanently attached to the fuselage I need to be able to get to all the servos.

Gibbs

NCIS

The whole top of the wing is sheeted except for the overhang on the TE where the flaps and ailerons are. I'm going to sand a 1/64"deep by 3/4" wide strip on the TE and then cut the ply and just glue it down. Don calls for balsa but it is already dinged up on the TE and corners from moving this huge thing around. The ply is much stronger and will be thinner and make for a better look. I also measured the height of the wing tip panels prior to putting on the tips and carving and sanding them to shape. I dread that task. They both come out within 1/32" at close to 6 7/8".

Gibbs

rack

My Feedback: (11)

what happen to your gear

NCIS

I'm getting ready to test fit the rails for the gear and I need to make new cutouts for ribs 6 and 7 so I can see how much clearence I'll have if any. This might mean making a slight modification to make the wheel opening deeper by making the 2 ribs taller as your looking at the bottom of the plane. Which means there is going to have to be a thicker wing in that section than on the plans. Not enough to notice but I need about 3/16" more height in this area.

Gibbs

cimara

Might try some .10 flight skin in that spot and cover over to the adajacent ribs with the flight skin and scoop out the 1/8 inch balsa sheething were you need the clearnce that should keep you from having to make new ribs but no garontees and creating a bump on the wing

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Gibbs

Just my 2 cents worth I would not do any more till I had the gears in hand, you don't want to do it twice

Bob T

NCIS

All I needed to do was to make the indentaion for the struts deeper and slightly wider and now it's fine. No hump. I will have to dremel away the ribs about 1/8" for the tires to fit. They are 2" thick inflatable tires. I'm waiting for the wheels and tires now. Also my air cylinder for my TF Giant F4U-5N.

Bob,

I'll email or PM you about something!

Winston,

Would you mind making me 2 scoops for the sides of my cowl for the turbo charger. I'll be happy to pay for them. They can be the same as the one on you F4U-4. I would rally appreciate it. I noticed you were going to make one for Mike22 and would like them also. It beats me having to make a mold and mess with all that.

Thanks,

Barry

NCIS

If you are using Seirra main retracts for this bird you have to modify the wing and instead of having the ribs on an angle as the plan and slots say to you have to cut the fron off the rear and leave the rear on the angle as in the plans. But the ribs 6 and 7 that hold the gear have to be at least 4" apart and perpindicular to the work surface. rib 7 is no problem but rib 6 comes up short. It is not the full widthe of the main spar or the forward spar. I made a part that is shaped the same as the top of rib 6 and also shaped it so it fit's snugly on the top of the rib. Here are 3 pic's to show you what I'm talking about. I have to use the one I made as a template for the other side and then I'll epoxy them in place and back them up with a another one that will secure both to the side and top of the existing rib 6 . When I do it I'll post pic's of them

Gibbs

NCIS

I finished making my rib extentions for the 2 #6 ribs that were not high enough once I made them perpindicular to the floor per Darrells instructions. I epoxied them in place and now I can figure out where the gear needs to be for the front hold down bolt to clear the sheeting which will later be changed to fiberglass.

Gibbs

rack

My Feedback: (11)

what happen to your gear

NCIS

Thats a mystery that you will have to figure out rack!


Gibbs

rack

My Feedback: (11)

whats the mater too expensive

NCIS

Maybe for poor folks like you. Why don't you go bother someone else. I'm having fun building and your being a pain about my f.....g gear!!! I wouldn't tell you if I have them or not now.

Gibbs

NCIS

Ive got the right side of the wings retract rails screwed in place and am waiting on a piece of 3/4"x3/4"x12" basswood to come for the other side. I ripped the left side a little to narrow because the distance between the ribs on that side is about 1/8" larger than on the one I'm working on. I'm still waiting on the wheel and tire from Darrell. He has to put them together and he was working on someone elses gear strut's or something. He said he would try to get to it tomorrow. Oh well whats the wait.

Gibbs

NCIS

I am going to put rib doublers on ribs 6 and 7 for safetly sake. Plus if I put the left side doubler on the inside I will be able to use the rails I have. I had a piece of poplar that I rip down to 3/4"x3/4"x5 7/8" and then cut it on an angle due to the fact that rib 7 is on a slight angle and not a tru 90 degrees off the main spar. Doing so things line up well. I used a scrap piece of balsa and placed it where the doubler will be and then clamped everything in place. You can't even hardly see the difference from one side to the other.

Gibbs

maydog75

Barry,
I just started this very project myself. I want you to know the build thread is MUCH appreciated! Although its not my first kit build it is my first Corsair kit build and your thread reads much like instructions only better. So for that I say thank you thank you. Especially since Don Smith only enlarged his plans and did not redraft them. I am of course running into the whole wing saddle problem with the notches which I think I have rectified after some measuring and dry fitting. Any tips or warnings to look out for in the future? Also I am having trouble finding the prop you mentioned. Solo I believe it was. Where can I find it. Thanks again and keep the thread coming!
Josh

NCIS

Josh,

The prop is from NRG Research it's called Solo Props. If you hurry you can order yours if you already have your engine. Each prop is made for a different one. Carl is selling his business "Solo Props" so if you call him after the 24th you can still get one before he shuts down to train the new owner. The only problem with the Solo Prop idea is that after he did mine for my 3W 200 cc engine he stopped making them for that large an engine. To much of a liability he said. His number though if you want to try is 250-549-7134 and he is in Canada. I have been talking to him about pruchasing his business and we are waiting for him to get back from a family thing to continue talking. If thats the case the business will be located in Janesville, Wisconsin in the good ole USA and I will make the props for the big engines again with a waiver for the purchaser to sign and return before shipping him his prop. Measure all the wood by measuring the actual size of it on the plan. Don't use the size he says to use on the plans. Then purchase it if you can or go bigger and rip it down with a band saw. You will at least have to have a bandsaw, drill press, and a chop saw. Be sure to use Seirra retracts and when you build your center section the ribs are all on an angle on the plan and the notches are too. You will need to change this for the front half of ribs 6 and 7 where the gear goes between. They have to be perpindicular to the work surface and at least 4" apart. I made mine 4 3/16" apart. I cut mine at the center spar notch and made the back stay in the notches and then used trinagular stock to hold the epoxied in 6 and 7 ribs. 1/2" balsa TS on the inside and 3/4" hardwood TS on the outsides of the ribs. I built the fuselage first as Don suggested. Feel free to join right in here with your build and if you have any questions feel free to ask or phone me at 920-723-7959 after 12pm. Go ahead and post as many pictures as you want and we will just make this a group build. I am a scale nut so I figure 2 more years before I fly it.

Barry/Gibbs

rack

My Feedback: (11)

you better talk to a good lawyer first, you can not waive liability successfully in the us ,if you want to get out of liability for a defective product, move to china.
carl new he made a mistake in making that prop for your 200 3w . per my discussion with him you were somehow going to keep the rpm
down below 4000 rpm and use it primarily for display.
you could be putting yourself and others at risk with this prop , they have been known to throw blades

NCIS

You are incorrect the limit is 5800 RPM and a waiver is as good as gold. If an attorney or Notory public watches you sign it and stamps it. That is all you need. Now you know all there is about law. Rack you are wasting your and my time with models you should be a lawer or doctor. Probably a proctologist being you are a pain in the A..!!!!

Gibbs

rack

My Feedback: (11)

the dumbness just cant help from creeping out of you

NCIS

rack would you leave my thread please as I want to just build and enjoy myself. I don't need a heckler ruining everyday on here.

Gibbs