dinointexas

hey barry, do you have any pics of that custom exhaust your welder was working on? or did i miss them?

NCIS

It's not done yet. He has a business to run first and is doing this for me as a favor. He is making progress but it isn't even close yet. The biggest thing for him was to design it and then see through trial and error what would work and what wouldn't. Plus fitting it inside of that cowl with such a large engine isn't making things any easier for him. I'll post pictures when it's done and I get the fuselage back home to my shop.

Gibbs

rack

My Feedback: (11)

nows the time time to do your gear doors. there complicated and its alot easier do do without the sheeting

NCIS

How do you do it without the sheeting? I've always sheeted and then used cling wrap and glassed over it. Then I cut out where I've drawn the lines for the gear doors in the sheeting. I'll listen to any help on this matter. I'm not the greatest at sliding canopies or gear doors.

Gibbs

rack

My Feedback: (11)

heres someone else's design

NCIS

I like the way he did the sliding canopy. I have my front slides so the slot is on the outside now. I had it the other way like in your picture before but couldn't figure out how to get both side of the canopy the same. I'll have to heat up the epoxy one more time and turn them over and add balsa on the outside so it matches the contour of the fuselage. As far as the gear doors they are going to be air operated and will open before the gear comes down. I have a valve that lets me adjust them when they open and when they close. I am using Robarts large offset hinges for the hinging part. Although I like the way he made his hinges. The method in the picture I will use on my TF Giant Corsair as there isn't much room for air cylinders. I still don't get how he made the doors without sheeting the area first to use as a mold.

Gibbs

NCIS

Today I finally felt comfortable enough with the fit of the retracts to put in triangular stock and then epoxy in the gear. Here it is finished on the inside. I am still waiting for the rib doublers to get here. I can't get my pictures to upload. I'll try tomorrow.

Gibbs

NCIS

I put the screws back in now that the epoxy is completely cured for extra strength and here are the retracts in place. I'll drill out holes in the doublers where the screw heads are.

Gibbs

NCIS

Well I guess since I've messed around with this so long it's time to hook some air up to em. I will wait to cycle them for when I have the doublers in. I also need to read the directions for Darrells sync. valve so I can keep them from slamming up and down. It will be 24" from the ground to the top of the center of the wing. 2' is nice. I will have plenty of room for the 32" 4 blade prop. I can't wait much longer to get my fuselage back from the welder so I can see how it looks on it's feet. I just wish I had my wheels. I hope Darrell sends me the one so I can test the fit and build the wheel wells.

Gibbs

NCIS

I'm all but done with my gas field box for my Warbirds. I just have to put different plugs on the ends of the power panel and banana clips on the pump. I would of done it today but the hardware store is closed. This thing has just about everything except a cooler. I do plan on dragging one behind it that I'll put on wheels. Then I'll have all the comforts of home. I still have to look for a bathroom when needed. The other thing is more decals from people I got parts from like 3W, Seirra, and Solo Props, etc. Oh yeah it now has free castering wheels on the front so if I'm kneeling down by my plane and need something I'll just reach over and pull it to me. I'm also going to add a rope to the front of the handle in case I just want to pull it instead of lifting the front.

Gibbs

NCIS

I'm installing my air valve and servo between ribs 4 and 5 so I can get to it with a hatch on the bottom of the wing. The air lines will go through the holes I drilled on each side and then into the plastic conduit. The majority of the air lines will be in the wing anyway except for the air tanks, TW retract, and it's gear doors. I ordered verticle aluminum servo mounts for all the control surface servos. I need to think about running all the air lines and then after testing the system for leaks start to sheet the bottom. I have to plank the gull area the same as the top of the wing so I don't have to wait for the wheels to do the rest of it and just leave that area open on both sides on the bottom.

Gibbs

NCIS

I pulled wires today for the flaps, air valve, ailerons, and lights. I worked on the belly section of the wing that I previously cut from the belly of the fuselage. A totally different method of building for me but it looks like it will fit nicely with a little help here and there. I marked the locations of all the servos and where the hatches will be. Here is what I did today. I also have the Field Box all wired up and it is finished. Pumps gas great.

Gibbs

NCIS

Today I drilled holes for the retract air lines and ran them through the plastic conduit to the air valve. Next is the gear door air lines. Thats going to be 6 lines in each conduit. I hope they will all fit. I know I'm working slow but I'm just enjoying this part of the build. Plus I am waiting for the wheels, more air cylinders for the doors, and air line.

Gibbs

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

Barry,

I am way behind on the built of my Corsair. However, I did talk to Darrell today about the main gear. He is making some adjustments to the struts and should have it ready by next week. Maybe by that time, I'll have all the house painting done and then can focus some time on specific areas of my plane.

David

NCIS

David,

It's good to here your about to get started on your Beast again. I am waiting on wheels with inflatable tires, brass T's and air lines. Then I will be finished with setting up the retracts I hope. Did you change the front half of ribs 6 and 7 from the main spar to the LE spar as I explained so Darrell's gear would fit in the wing? I hope you have so you don't have to do it when the gear arrives. I used Triple A 3/4"x3/4'x5 7/8" Basswood for my gear rails. I bought them from Balsa USA in 12" sections and then just ripped and cut them for a perfect fit. They are about 5/8" wide by 3/4" deep now. I'm using #8 stainless steel metric allen head bolts 1 1/4" long with T-nuts on the bottom to hold them in. I had to drill out the holes in the gear just slightly but I wanted a tight fit and the #6's were real loose.

Get building and post a ton of pic's,


Barry

NCIS

I made a video of my gear and gear door cylinders operating but I am to stupid to figure out how to down load them to my computer. Plus there isn't any sound like there is suppossed to be. If I ever figure this out I'll post the video. I have everything syncrinised but can't show you. I finally got it to work with help from an Angel. Excuse the ugly guy in the video but a friends daughter and fellow flyer figured it out for me. Leave it to a 12 Year old girl to do something I couldn't do. Thank you very much TF96.


Gibbs

http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/Seirr...racts-for-a-14

NCIS

Takingflight96 figured out the video procedure for me and now it is on the post right above. Check it out and give me your opinions of the gear, not my ugly mug!!!


Gibbs

TakingFlight96

Your welcome Barry. That was a great video, a bit long, but I must admit those retracts are awesome [sm=thumbup.gif] I can tell this is going to be one heck of a beast !!! Keep going on her. Do you know when your going to get the fuse from the welders back, any updates on how thats going?


TF96

NCIS

TF96,

I gave him a deadline of January 20th so we shall see if he gets her done or not. I miss not having it to work on. I want to start to see how I'm going to permanently attach the 66" center section to it. Of course that will be the very last thing I do before I glass the whole plane.

Barry

Wildcard

Hey Barry, I like the fact that one gear comes up one at a time but I have a question for you. I'm not real sure here but I thought the Corsair tended to yaw to the left on take-off. If this is true, wouldn't you want the left gear to come up first that way the right gear might cause enough drag to help counteract the yaw? Just a thought,

Brett

NCIS

I can do that when I do the final hook up by just switching the airlines. As it is now the valve can't be adjusted except for speed. That just happens to be the way it turned out when I hooked them up to test. Thank you for that advise.

Barry

NCIS

I tried switiching the air line to get the left retract to work first but it wouldn't change. I'll call Darrell and see what he has to say. I'm finished testing them so I removed them and primes and painted the are so it will be zinc chromate in color. I hope this is the correct color for that area. I can't find any pictures of it in color. Only black and white photos. When the paint is dry I'll start to build the wheel well areas.

Gibbs

t_burley

My Feedback: (59)

the internet amazingly actually works if you search for once.

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazin...s_us_part3.htm

""Somewhere during the production of F4U-1A model Vought discontinued the use of Salmon primers and switched to Zinc Chromate Yellow with cockpits in Interior Green. ""

maydog75

Hey Barry,
The gear looks awesome. Question: How has been the best way to keep intouch with Sierra? I have emailed a few times with only 1 response and I don't want to piss off the only gear manufacturer for this big boy
Thanks Looking goood!!!
Josh

Skaweee

My Feedback: (11)

Hey NCIS, nice work so far. I've been hanging on every thread to see what this big bird is all about.

As far as the interior colors, I believe the corsair cockpit is indeed zinc chromate, however, the wheel wells as well as the gear struts were the same white as the underside of the wings, at least on the F4U-1A. Can't remember where I read this, but it wasn't long ago, and I remember being somewhat surprised by it. If I run across it again, I'll turn you on to it.