samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Here's some color pictures of contemporary planes showing the interior gear as white.
Personally, I just use a paint that I'm comfortable with.
I've always thought the idea of one published authentic color is asking the impossable since no manufacturer (especially in the forties) can make every batch of paint to be identical to another batch and a month in the elements and colors are going to vary widely.
Taking a quote from the above post #705 on colors confirms what I feel:

'the wartime Olive Drab 41 might only have a couple of different pigments in it, the formulation varying between different paint manufacturers.
All this has resulted in paint that proved (knowingly) much less stable in field conditions. New aircraft matching (or not) specification colours at the door of the factory could demonstrate quite dramatic changes of colour once deployed in the field. Different batches of paints would fade at different rates to different base colour.'

billk101

My Feedback: (1)

Gibbs,
Here are some shots of "Marine's Dream" that I took at an airshow in Geneseo NY. Send me a PM if you need other shots, I have over 100 close-up detail shots since I am also working "off and on" on a 1/4 scale scratch F4U-1D.
Regards,
Bill

billk101

My Feedback: (1)

Gibbs,

Here are some additional shots of the:
-oil cooler intake (if I recall this area was a topic of debate earlier)
-exhaust
-cowl with name

Bill

NCIS

Thanks everybody for the replies. My computer has been down for over 24 hours and I haven't been able to respond. It is still down but I am at the library to check my mail for canopy rail orders. Good thing I did because I had quite a few. They are invoiced now. As far as the white gear that would be right as I did for my F4U-1D but this is a F4U-7 and it is all blue except for the tail and the yellow stripes around the wing and fuse. It is a French Navy Corsair so I guess I just have to keep looking. Anyone got any info on that version I'd appreciate the help.

Maydog,

I have trouble to but calling him is the only way to get the man. His number is 440-476-4885. Just don't give up. Plus use different phones if he gets wise to your number he may just not answer. I like Darrell but he is a pain in the rear to get a hold of. I guess when your the best guy out there you can afford to be that way. Just don't settle for inferior products because the wait is well worth what you end up with. I've been wainting for wheels for about 3 weeks now but what the hey it's only time.

Barry
PS: I'll be back when my computer is back on line.

NCIS

I changed the color of the retract area so it is closer to the pictures that Todd had on his site he posted. I just painted it the green again and then while it was wet added yellow. It's the best I can do. I wish it were a little bit more yellow but it just turns to yellow if I add any more of it. I am fine with it so I will make the wheel wells match the retract areas after I get my wheels and can make the wheel well boxes. Now if my wheels for it would come and the air cylinder for my TF Giant Corsair I could proceed.

Gibbs/I hate to wait

t_burley

My Feedback: (59)

get the testors yellow chromate for the wheelwell
area and you'll be fine. the gear rail area there wont
be as visible/noticible

NCIS

Todd,

Heres the retract areas with your color. yellow zinc chromate from Testors. It still needs one more coat. I wish I had an airbrush so I could save paint and spray it. To get it real even I'm going to hold off on that last coat and have our Auto Body Shop Supply Store in town match the color and put it in a spray can so I'll have it for all the other areas that will be that color and the wheel wells. I'll save weight and money and I hate to brush paint anyway.

Barry

PS: Todd, thanks for the lead on the color and who makes it. It looks just like the pictures.

NCIS

I started test fitting the back half of my extra ribs that I got for reinforcing the retract area to make my wheel wells. I still need the wheels so I can test for sure and then dremel down the ribs under the tire so the wheel will fit so I can put in a false floor made out of 1/32" sheeting and then add the detailing as seen in the previous pictures that cimara and DaddySam posted. I'll also dremel away the front of the rear half of the ribs behind the main spar so my air cylinders for the doors will be flush against the main spar.

Gibbs

NCIS

I've got the retract rib doublers cut to size and the holes drilled for the exsposed screw heads. I am going to get the other side done and then I'll epoxy them in place. I also cut the ribs for the wheel wells for the left half of the wing and they are in being test fit. I need that darned set of wheels so I can start gluing in the well boxes and then I can plank the area between ribs 5 and 8. The rest of the wing is just sheeted as normal. Which I'll do after I build the flaps and make the hinges out of plywood.

Gibbs

NCIS

I added a layer of 1/64" ply to the outside of the rib doublers to strengthen the doubler where I had to drill holes for the screw heads that beef up the rails. I'll add more epoxy to these voids when I epoxy the doublers in place tomorrow and then the front section of the retract areas will be done.

Gibbs

NCIS

I bit the bullet and went out today and bought an airbrush and compressor for my Giant and Monster Corsairs. I was sick of not being able to get the right color in a can and now I have a full size spray gun, primer gun, and airbrush. The small compressor for the airbrush and my large compressor for the spray and primer guns. I also was getting tired of masking everything off just to shoot a small area like the wheel wells and retract areas. I'll use this airbrush for all the insides of my hatches and where ever else opens up so it looks more authentic. Plus I get it for 40% off for this week only starting today at Michaels Crafts. The airbrush is a Deluxe Model 200 Badger and the compressor is made by Model Maker and comes with a regulator and water trap.

Barry

NCIS

I'm still waiting for my shipment of parts from Darrell at Seirra. I can't do anything on this Beast or my TF Giant Corsair until I get the parts to go on. I am frustrated to beat the band. I want to get the retract and wheel well areas done so I can go on to something else. Also the welder is sitting on his thumbs and I don't even have my fuselage and custom exhaust he's making to work around. I want to see how I'm going to baffle the engine for cooling after I see the exhaust. I'm about ready to just go pick it up and put on regular pipes that will come out the bottom of the cowling. Plus I'd like to get my sliding canopy working. Order some canopy rails so at least I have that to do!!!

Barry[:@]

NCIS

Since I'm bored out of my gourd I decided to recheck to see if paint made any difference with hoe level my axles are. Turns out they are right on. Without a flash there is a double line that you see as a blur below each axle but the laser goes straight through the axles. Plus it looks great with Todd's suggestion and cimara's pictures to use Testor's yellow chromate on the retract and wheel well areas. Wells will be painted after I finally get my order from Darrell and I can build them. I'm not holding my breath anymore.

Barry

rack

My Feedback: (11)

idiot

maydog75

Barry,
He wont even return my calls or email. I have never had to beg to give away good money. I only wish there was another route to go with the gear on this thing just for spite. So as it looks I will, in a year from now , be posting the same frustrations your are now. I started to plank my sides which is going pretty well. Do you still have that extra canopy? If so do you want to sell it? I am getting ready to place my order for both cowl and canopy but love the one you got. I sent that guy who made yours emails about purchasing one but have heard nothing. Just let me know. Thanks Josh

NCIS

Josh,

The canopies are for the Mark 5 of 7 Corsairs and not the standard F4U-1D like I think your modeling yours after. So mine wouldn't work on yours. Believe me you don't want to try this modification. It took me about 15 attempts to get the hump just right on the spine behind the pilots head. I am holding onto both just in case one blows off or gets damaged. Plus I don't have it sliding yet either. I hope you understand. Graham is just like Darrell only worse. He doesn't return my e-mails or PM's either plus he is overseas and you can't even try to call him. He makes excellent pilots too but won't give me the time of day. I think all he cares about right now is his XXL Corsair that he is making into a Mark 5. I buy 2 of everything that I intend on modifing. I have an extra cowling and also 2 F4U-1D Canopies from Don Smith when he was still running the show. I'm holding onto everything just in case the mod I'm doing doesn't work out. What ever happened to you giving me a call? In the pictures you can see the hump and then the canopy in place. I am almost tempted to just make it look like a slider and leave it stationary.

Barry

maydog75

Barry,
Yeah I saw they were for the Mark 5,7 after I posted this. Doh! They look so good though! I am still planing on giving you a call. My problem is I am a single dad at nights and by the time I get to my building its real late. I also own a retail business which makes my days completely swamped at xmas time. So all my free time aka weekends are taken up now by work [&o] but all this will change come January and then I can start deadicating some REAL time to building. Right now I am able to get about 3 to 4 planks done in the hour I have in the eves. Question did you use thin C/A for this process and then wood glue the seams or just c/a and filler. Well got to get back to the register. If mine comes out any where close to yours I would be extreamly happy! Keep up the great building!
J
PS Completely understand you want to hang on to your extra canopies etc I just thought you might have some extra parts and it never hurts to ask

cimara

Barry I have your scoops done let me know when you want them shipped

NCIS

Winston,

The check went out today.

Barry

rack

My Feedback: (11)

did you ever get the rest of your parts from darell

NCIS

No and I'm really getting frustrated. I just don't understand Darrell. Chasing away money.

Gibbs

NCIS

I tried out my airbrush tonight on the retract area and spraying it versus brushing it brought out a little more of the green in the yellow chromate. I didn't get my order from Darrell today as usual. Anybody know where I can get some scale 7 1/2" wheels that aren't to expensive. I am not wanting to spend more than I absolutely have to. I think I'm giving up on Seirra and Darrell. He doesn't need the business or money anyway the way he acts. Good luck to all of you that don't have their main retracts yet. He is to busy with the Comp ARF 110" Corsair to worry about us.

Gibbs

NCIS

Still no parts! Anyway I've been anticipating their arrival maybe so I have been tinkering with the wheel wells. I got rid of the Ribs 6 and 7 behind the main spar so I can put my gear door air cylinders there and I also dremeled down the rib 6 so the tire would fit down into the well. I'll do the other side and then onto the rear wall. I hope to just use the plans section of the TE spar and cut that out accordingly. Also as stated earlier when putting the final coat of yellow chromate on the rtract area it turned more greenish due to the thinning I guess.

Gibbs

NCIS

In hopeful anticipation that I will get my package from Darrell I am still building my wheel wells. It would make it easier if I had the wheels. Anyway enough whinning. I made a back wall for my wheel well out of 3/32" balsa so it would be easier to shape to fit. I used the template of the rear spar as a guide to at least get it close. It had to be altered because of it's location being forward of the rear spar. One thing was it had to be taller to match the wheel well ribs I made by hand. I will reinforce the 3/32 balsa by snadwiching it between two layers of 1/64" plywood. That should make it strong enough. I'm also going to soak it in Z-poxy first before applying the plywood. Here is one side prior to the plywood. I can't cut to length until I have the wheels and I might also have to move it back if the tire hits it.

Gibbs

NCIS

Darrell came through after all. He is off my S..t list again. Here are my wheels. I have to mill out the struts on the retracts because he said the axles need to be stonger than 1/4" so he changed it to 5/16". He sent the axles so I'll take them tomorrow and have my friend at his CNC shop in Edgerton, Wisconsin mill them for me. Here are a bunch of pics. The wheels are 7 1/2" in diameter and 1 3/4" thick. Plus they are inflatable with a regular air chuck like used on your car or truck.

Gibbs