thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

JeffH
really? wow!!!. I will have to check it all out again as my muffler cannot weigh that much.

RBean
If I remember right I think I said my YS-120 is 32 ounces with out the muffler. I will check that again too. Either I did not have the plane sitting right on the cg marks on the balancer or my math is wrong. Once I get home this weekend I will re-do.


Thanks guys for the input

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

Well I tried today to check the balance.

Idid check the weight of my engines and the YS-110 is a good 6 ounces lighter than my YS-120. My YS-140L is even1.5 ounces lighter than my YS-120. Idon't know which 120I have.Whether is it is SC, FZ, SF, or the NC and if they were lighter or heavier than each other.I know for sure it is not the AC, air chamber box version.I do knowthat withthe exhaust on the engine weight it is37 ounces.

I did find that my marks I made on the wing were off about5mmfrom the manual. I was closer to 138 than 143. Howeverit did not seem to change it as it was still about 6.5 oz. to balance at 5-5/8th. Looking atthe manualInoticed it shows the wheels out.I was balancing it with the gear retracted.Today I left them point up and it changed the tail weightfrom 6.5 oz. to 6.0 oz.

Iwas curious to see where it would balance with no tail weight on there. She will sit level with no weightat 5 inches. I saw a few posts here where guys say theirs was at 5 and it flew just fine. I am wondering if I should just leave it alone and fly it with the cg at 5 instead of trying to add weight to get to 5-5/8th. The manual says you cango about 1/4 of an inch either way. Using that as a guide, the forward cg point is 5-3/8th. I am still before that.

I know I have to decide what I think will work for mebut what do you guys think?5 or 5-5/8th?I just don't want it to go in on the maiden flight. Or any flight for that matter.

I don't think there is much more I can do as there is no room to move things around. The other thing is although the YS-110 is lighter it is alsosmaller forthe bolt patternfor the lug boltsandforthedistance from the firewall to the thrust washerto clear the cowl. So it would requirea new engine mount and cowl. I would also have to get a new HHH decal for the cowl.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Test flew my electrified version yesterday. Many thanks to all whose ideas and observations led to a successful outing. All I changed afterwards was to reduce the elevator throws and put some spacers behind the rear retract mounts to cant the axles forward a little. I nosed over on my grass field.

Am using a 6s, 5 amp Tunigy Lipo, a Horizon Hobbies 60 motor, and a Phoenix controller. Flew real "Mustang-like" and looked great. Still love the gassers, but something new is always enjoyable.

Again, thanks to all!

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Congrats, Lifer.

What prop are you using? I was looking at the Horizon specs on that motor, and it seemed pretty nice with a 15x10.

Max: You're talking a 1/8 difference between 5" and the aft recommended limit (5-5/8 minus 1/4, or 5-1/8). It shouldn't take very much, way back in the tail behind the elevator horn, to get that. Mine handles great at that (gear up) and is very stable with no nose over habits, but I'm carrying almost 3/16" down trim for level flight, which indicates it's borderline tail heavy. [:-] If you know someone who reloads pistol ammo, go beg some 45 ACP bullets. (bullets, not cartridges) The 230 grainers weigh 1/2 oz each and are easy to epoxy way back in there. I prefer the FMJ ones, but if all you can get is lead, make sure to wash your hands afterward.

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

Hi Bob,
So you are at 5-1/8th? I can check intothebullets.I have been using this steel powder I got here on RCU. Great Stuff!!! Just mix with epoxy and either paint the weight onor pour it in place. Really works out well when adding nose weight.Youpaint it inside the cowl. Up in the area of the nosering you usually have plenty of space that you can't do much with. This stuff fits in there nicely. I have used it to balance several planes now and have not used those leads strips since. Once Ipoured it intothe bottom of aretract air tank to add nose weight as the tank was in the nose. Worked like a charm.
thanks for the input....

Here is the link to it hereon RCU:http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=772029


Edit. Forgot to add the picture of the black steel powder.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

MustangFever,

Confirmed that I am using the 15x10. I have little experience with electric so I went with Horizon's recommendations. If anyone can make additional prop rec's, I would appreciate it.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

If it works: don't fix it. It depends on the motor: if that props works good with your motor/ battery/ aircraft setup: then no point in changing.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

noticed a few pages back a guy used the TF B conversion kit on this arf was wondering if any one else did this, I have a couple of these kits a D model and the limited edition B kit, but right now I don't have the time to do a full build right now, and was thinking this would be a good way to cheat on a B stang from the posters response it sounded like the conversion was fairly strait forward just checking to see how the mod went

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Today was the big day to test the new engine. I should have gone with the 95AX to begin with. It's perfect for this airplane. Very strong vertical, and great top speed, around 75mph, which works out to over 500mph scale.

Had a lot of difficulty with the landing gear today, due to the factory struts not fitting the Robart 85 degree retracts very well. Pulled them out and figured a way to use the Robart struts, which are very strong wire. The factory ones were way too soft, and bent at every landing.

JR16

Did anyone recently just purchase or build this plane? Did your wings have the opening for the rear anti rotation pin? mine does not.

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

Finally got mine finished, just need to get the YS 110 dialed in then I can maiden. Having some issues with a bad idle on a new engine.

ton2di

My Feedback: (182)

Max,

It's ok to fly it at 5" cg especially for the maiden flight. I have flown mine that way for more than a year with an OS200FS (with turbo muffler) swinging a 4 blade 15.5x12 apc.

Ton2di

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

GREAT LOOKING MUSTANG, MANFRED! Better get the engine dialed in tho, this isn't the best plane to make emergency landings with.

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

Thanks ton2di.
That is what I am going to do. See how it flies at 5"'s and then go fromthere. Sounds like you have had no issues so I hopefully will not either.
thanks again.

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

Thanks CJ

labebe

guys, I need a pitts style muffler for my OS max FS-120S-E, does any one know where can I found it????? What models?? Brand????
Thanks,
Alex

chandley43231

My Feedback: (2)

bro just call j tec they build t my muffler for me on my 1.20 ax 2 stroke  they are the best tell the carl the plumber form columbus ohio told you to call its a father an son operation an they are great  good luck bro

JR16

Hi again all I was wondering how the eflight retract are holding up? as I am considering then or a set of spring airs

Merlin Man

Hi,
I have had a set of eflite 60-120 size retracts on a 72" Blackhorse PC9 at 12.5 lbs. and they have performed flawlessly since fitting. I can strongly recomend them.

Cheers,
Merlin Man.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

That's good to hear, Merlin. I tried the Robart 85 degree mechanicals, but they had no way to positively secure the leg into the pivot, and gave up on them. I've been thinking about trying the Efllite's, as I had good luck with their 15-25 ones. Also, I wouldn't have a set of air retracts on a bet.

JR16

hi again, i have another question regarding retracts for this plane. what do i need 85 or 90 degree

skillet92

85 will work, but go with the 90 to get them fully up in the wing. The real plane had something like 87. You can always shim it for the 90 but cant get more if you need it with the 85.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

The wheels don't need to go further up- the wheel wells aren't that deep to begin with. The model comes with 85s. Get 85s if you want to replace them.

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

Great looking bird, did you do the panel lines with masking tape and an airbrush? They really change the looks of the plane.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Actually, I don't think the stock ones are a full 85, as I've mentioned before: I think they are closer to 87. If I go to Robarts (replace stock ones): I intend to use 90s, and shim them slightly. With my setup (offset struts, installed correctly): I will need to make them go up a little farther into the wing.

SO, hope the answer is perfectly clear: some like the 85s, some like the 90s. Sometimes ya just have to figure out what works best for you.