CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
#2326

CARS II,
I had one with a DLE 20. It would fly with the 20 but I thought it needed more power. I re-engined with an NGH 35 with the beam mount. I had to move the batteries to the rear fuslage to maintain cg. It flew great. The extra weight didn't seem to effect it's flying. Lost the plane when a gyro went ape s----- on me.
I had one with a DLE 20. It would fly with the 20 but I thought it needed more power. I re-engined with an NGH 35 with the beam mount. I had to move the batteries to the rear fuslage to maintain cg. It flew great. The extra weight didn't seem to effect it's flying. Lost the plane when a gyro went ape s----- on me.
#2327
RBean, I have had two of this kits. The 1st one with a Zenoah 23. The 2nd one with a DLE 30. Definitively, with the DLE 30 the model flies with more authority. The weight was not an issue, it balanced well with the batteries in the rear of the wing well. My DLE 30 is a side exhaust. With a rear exhaust it would look even better, not having to open the side of the cowling.
My ME 109 is posted in this post.
My ME 109 is posted in this post.
#2335

My Feedback: (7)
I got the spinner on Thursday, looks good and much lighter than the aftermarket metal one that my friend bought for the airplane, the fit is about 98% accurate.
I run the engine with the help of one of my YS experienced friends, it is turning a 16x8 @ 8800, will try a 15x8 later, using 20/20 fuel, it took us about 2 minutes to get it running perfect, idles at 2K- 2200.
Will post some pictures this week.
I run the engine with the help of one of my YS experienced friends, it is turning a 16x8 @ 8800, will try a 15x8 later, using 20/20 fuel, it took us about 2 minutes to get it running perfect, idles at 2K- 2200.
Will post some pictures this week.
Last edited by CARS II; 06-05-2021 at 04:09 PM.
#2337

My Feedback: (7)
No on board glow driver for this engine, I've used them on my OS engines before ( P47 ) this engine is holding idle around 2K, it doesn't look like it will need one, the glow plug is so down in the head that using a glow driver may be impossible, if the idle begins decade then, it's time for a new glow plug, keeping it a tad on the rich side will prevent the glow plug from been cooked.
Last edited by CARS II; 06-05-2021 at 04:08 PM.
#2340

My Feedback: (7)
Well, I finished the ME109 at my field today, we had warbird event today and decided to finish the 109 at the field and I did, it only needs a few more minor items, like painting the spinner spiral.
I got to the field around 10 am and worked on the 109 till 6 pm.
The maiden flight was a piece of cake, the CG was right at 110 mm, the TO was so straight that I felt like this airplane had flown before, plenty of power out of the YS120, the landing was straight forward, just have to keep the power on because of the airbrakes.




I got to the field around 10 am and worked on the 109 till 6 pm.
The maiden flight was a piece of cake, the CG was right at 110 mm, the TO was so straight that I felt like this airplane had flown before, plenty of power out of the YS120, the landing was straight forward, just have to keep the power on because of the airbrakes.




Last edited by CARS II; 06-13-2021 at 01:29 AM.
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apereira (09-17-2022)
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#2348
#2349
#2350

Joined: Oct 2014
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Hi Cars
Are these still around, I don't think that they have been manufactured for a long time, mine is hanging on the wall and has never flown. The covering was very brittle and easily damaged and whilst an impressive looking model I was disappointed with the quality
I cannot help you as there seems to a limited supply of pilot options, most are just boring chest models and if you want a full body you needed to modify the servo layout from the start. I did use a chest model and carved the abdomen and legs from wood for an M12 Pitts that worked well.
If that is the original kit spinner good luck, I was correctly warned and mine cracked just tightening it up.
I was never happy with the cooling arrangement , unless you cut the crap out of the cowling the great big spinner reduces the cooling drastically.
I considered making the spinner an internal fan ducting air through the spinner and back of the plate and I started to build an exhaust that actually ducted out of the blisters on the side but I relocated and work stopped. (too many other models that were easier to complete).
Have you used the kit push rods?
The rods flexed and I didn't think that the rod ends were robust enough and so I actually glued the rods inside the fues (one on the side and the other down the middle). I used these as guides for sleeved pushrods which incidentally then gave me room for a full pilot if I found one although I the pilot will have tunnel between his legs for one of the cable runs.
There were many other changes including as I recall stiffening up the U/C location and some creative installation copied from the Topflite Spitfire to get the wheels further forward. Straight from the kit the wheels were just forward of the CoG and flight reports indicated it had a tendency to nose over on the ground (probably needs back stick when you open the tap).
regards
Are these still around, I don't think that they have been manufactured for a long time, mine is hanging on the wall and has never flown. The covering was very brittle and easily damaged and whilst an impressive looking model I was disappointed with the quality
I cannot help you as there seems to a limited supply of pilot options, most are just boring chest models and if you want a full body you needed to modify the servo layout from the start. I did use a chest model and carved the abdomen and legs from wood for an M12 Pitts that worked well.
If that is the original kit spinner good luck, I was correctly warned and mine cracked just tightening it up.
I was never happy with the cooling arrangement , unless you cut the crap out of the cowling the great big spinner reduces the cooling drastically.
I considered making the spinner an internal fan ducting air through the spinner and back of the plate and I started to build an exhaust that actually ducted out of the blisters on the side but I relocated and work stopped. (too many other models that were easier to complete).
Have you used the kit push rods?
The rods flexed and I didn't think that the rod ends were robust enough and so I actually glued the rods inside the fues (one on the side and the other down the middle). I used these as guides for sleeved pushrods which incidentally then gave me room for a full pilot if I found one although I the pilot will have tunnel between his legs for one of the cable runs.
There were many other changes including as I recall stiffening up the U/C location and some creative installation copied from the Topflite Spitfire to get the wheels further forward. Straight from the kit the wheels were just forward of the CoG and flight reports indicated it had a tendency to nose over on the ground (probably needs back stick when you open the tap).
regards







