hgiles

My Feedback: (4)

P51B,
Your math is lacking some important considerations. The straight line proportional analysis you make with regard to relative wing length is flawed in that you are dealing with a 3 dimensional object, not a one-dimensional object.

Let's consider pizzas (2 dimensional object) for use as an analogy. If I offer a 10" pizza for $10, and a 15" pizza at $16 you might say that proportionately the 15" is overpriced. You would be wrong, as the 15" is more than twice as big (area=pi*r*r) as the 10", yet costs only 60% more. The value is in the 15" pizza.

Going to 3 dimensional objects makes the differences even more profound. For example, an ice cube where one side is 2 cm long holds 8 times as much volume of an ice cube where one side is 1 cm long.

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

I assume your refering to this ancient history post;

You'll notice I already stated that the factor should not be linear and put in a rough approximation to get closer based on surface volume as you tried to do with the pizza example. The ice cube example is irrelevant since it is a solid volumetric example (unless they are charging for air).

Also, as anyone with manufacturing experience would know, the cost difference between the materials for two aircraft is very small compared to manufacturing costs such as buildings, power, labor etc...which should be fairly similar for the two aircraft.

Like I said originally, in the ancient history post, my math was probably off a bit since I have no way of obtaining exact figures, but the differences should not add up to twice the cost.


By the way, thanks for the math lesson.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I finished my 51 a couple weeks ago and was going over everything before the first flight and never did like the way the tail wheel was mounted in the tail. They give you a darn little allen screw to hold the nylon arm onto the the music wire. I think this will be really easy to stip out when tighting the allen screw....even if you can get to it or even see it. Looking around my work shop I came across a Du-Bro 1 1/4 nylon steering arm assembly that I had bought from the LHS. The number is 155 and it is for a 5/32 wire. I stole the 6/32 allen screw out of the pack and used that...lots better and you can find it down there in the fus. You will have to tap out the original 6/32.
With a Satio 180 mine came out at 15lbs 4 oz. That's a little more then I figured.

Stallion_51

My Feedback: (1)

Well, we've got one on the way and a YS-140 FZ is waiting. Will power be an issue? We had no problem pulling around our heavier TF .60 'Stang around with a YS-120. That .60 size Stang came out at around 14 pounds. People are saying this 1.50 size Stang comes out about the same weight, so the YS-140 should be good enough...?

RC GOLF

My Feedback: (3)

AM JUST GETTING READY TO START THIS BEAUTIFUL P-51 1.50 h-9 THAT THE WIFE BOUGHT FOR ME.
PLEASE TALK TO ME OUT THERE. I HAVE READ THIS THREAD A LOT OF OPINIONS.
WHAT ENGINE
SAITO 1.80 or OS 1.60 or MDS 2.18 Or ???
WILL THEY ALL FIT?? OR ??
I ALSO HAVE THE NOSEN P-51 STARTED IT WILL TAKE A WHILE.
WHAT ENGINE FOR THAT MONSTER??

RC GOLF

My Feedback: (3)

MY WIFE JUST DID THE SAME THING. wHAT HAVE YOU FOUND OUT SO FAR.
REF. MY POST 12 MAR 2004

RC GOLF

My Feedback: (3)

i'M JUST GETTING STARTED ON A NEW ONE.
HOW DID IT GO. LOOKING FOR INFO

RC GOLF

My Feedback: (3)

tHIS IS RC GOLF HOW DID YOURS GO.
HAVE OTHER POSTS (RECENT) WHAT INFO CAN YOU GIVE ME????

Build-n-flyer-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

RC Golf-

I just ordered a new H9 P-51 myself and have been looking through this thread. Lots of info but hard to sort through. Also it seems that postings on it have slowed down a bunch recently. But I know of others that have just purchased this plane too so I am sure that there is still plenty of interest.

I already have a Saito 200TI ordered for mine. It seems like the Saito 180 is by far the most popular for the P-51 followed by the 200TI ($$ is probably the big factor here), then there are a few MOKI guys and a small handful of others.

The big question on this plane is what to do with the retracts. I'm gonna study the postings and put together a list of retract options, then throw them on the board to see what the concensus is.

Walt

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

I put the CJ retracts in my P51, wish I had read the thread regarding all the problems people were having with them before I bought them. Have not flown it yet so I am not sure how they are going to perform.

Build-n-flyer-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

Problems with the CJ retracts or with the company (Century Jet)?

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

according to the thread...both!

setsem

HELP....I'm new to the 150 mustang. I've only flown a trainer and am now building the 150 arf. I've followed the directions and have the plane almost complete now except for the radio gear. how do I get the elevators to work together. They are installed the way the instruction manual shows but they go in opposite directions like the ailerons. I'm having the same problem with the flaps. I know It must be something I'm doing but I can't seem to work it out. I'm using a 6 channel futaba radio.

viper21

My Feedback: (9)

Setsem, what you need to make your flaps and elevators to work together is either a computer radio with more channels or a reversing Y harness. I have used the EMS Jomar units with great results. http://www.emsjomar.com/ Take a look here and scroll down and click on next you will see a Reversing Y Harness. http://www.emsjomar.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6 It will allow you to plug one end into your elevator channel on your receiver and then plug both channels to the Y Harness and one side will reverse your second channel so that they will work together and go up and down together. You need one more for your flaps channel and plug it into the flaps channel as you did with the elevator channel and your flap servos into the correct ends of the Y harness. And you have correct moving flaps. I can attest to their products as I use several of them as they only are 25 minutes from me I can call ahead and ask for what I need and they will make it if needed. The stuff is made in the US as far as I know and work great. I have 3 of their onboard glow for my fourstroke floatplanes and will be installing a twin engine onboard glow for my twin four stroke HU-16 Albatross sea plane. They make great stuff and I have used their reversing Y harness and been very happy with them.
Viper

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Flew two different ones this weekend - both with Moki 1.80s and both with Spring Airs. Both fly great!

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Capt G, I am ready to maiden my 150 P51. It will be my first warbird. Can you offer any details as far as flight characteristics, ground handling, landing speed, stall behavior?

Any input on this would be appreciated

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

OK - on takeoff- add power slowly and correct heading with rudder. The tail will come up right away. When all is stable - smoothly add full power and keep it straight with the rudder. It will take a bunch of rudder at full power. Stalls are benign and straight ahead. Flaps add no appreciable pitch-up. Set up your landings and fly the plane on to the runway at a fairly low speed. Then as it slows down stick the tail to the ground and keep it there. Don't try to turn around until you're slowed to a walking pace. All should go very well - it's a great flying airplane. If you look like you're gonna be too high, long or hot take it around and set up again. Good luck. G.

RC GOLF

My Feedback: (3)

Was seriously considering the MDS 2.18 but BISSON says problem w/muffler and engine staying in cowl.

am now looking at the OS BGX-1 3500 Trying to get spec on that motor
or
OS FX 1.60
The saito 200 will be sweet but the price is rich.
Saito 1.80 would be cool
I just can't make a decision..What to do,,what to do.

Ont the retract note the retract that come with the plane now are not the same as in the past"so I am told" do you know??

RC GOLF

My Feedback: (3)

to Capt. G
Sound like good info have in the data bank.
would you comment on engine choice for me
are the retracts the same now as two years ago???
thanks for your help and patience

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Thank you capt G, great information!

RC GOLF

My Feedback: (3)

Tell me what engine you decided on, i'm trying to read all of the thread but might have missed it.
What did you do on the retracts
Just getting started on mine
comments please??

Stallion_51

My Feedback: (1)

We've almost completed ours. I can tell you that we're using a YS-140FZ for power. This has a bit more power and torque than the Saito 180's.

As far as retracts, we're gonna try the stock gear with some shimming to decrease the wobble as some of the guys in this thread have suggested.

Also, didn't really feel comfortable using the stock plastic clevises, now using Dubro.

RC GOLF

My Feedback: (3)

Do you think the moki 2.10 or the mds 2.18 would be good choices or is the moki 1.8 plenty..
your pic's are cool who was holding the cam?? brave soul.

Have decided on a moki 2.10 it is in the mail and on the way.

mulligan

I have a Moki 1.80 in mine, and it is a very good match- flies fast and sounds great. A 2.10, though, would not be too much IMO. As the 'tang isn't that drag-friendly, I don't think the speed difference would be too much, and you should consider flying time and fuel cost, as Mokis are thirsty. But then again, a 2.10 is bigger, and bigger is better .

Yeah, I'm waffling

- George

RC GOLF

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the response.
Got a couple of more days work on my 1/4 Sopwith(Old ORLINE kit)... then
the P-51 goes on the bench. I'm going with the stock gear an hitech retract servos any comments or opinions?
Great PIC of the stangs brave camera person.
Thanks,
Bob