Meister 1/5 scale P-47
03-11-2015, 04:35 PM
#1978
Painted the rivets I had added. These were not flush.
Usually takes two evenings for a canopy. On track even though I had a setback last night when I cracked the original canopy that I had all fit up. Glued something I shouldn't have and broke the dang canopy getting it loose. Fortunately, I had a spare on hand and didn't have to 911 Dino. But, this one had the protective covering removed.
Be very very careful.
Usually takes two evenings for a canopy. On track even though I had a setback last night when I cracked the original canopy that I had all fit up. Glued something I shouldn't have and broke the dang canopy getting it loose. Fortunately, I had a spare on hand and didn't have to 911 Dino. But, this one had the protective covering removed.
Be very very careful.Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-11-2015 at 07:20 PM.
03-12-2015, 01:25 PM
#1981
With the canopy closed, I make alignment marks on both sections, then install the magnets. Again, I unscrew the front section from the fuselage to make this easy.
Like batteries, care must be taken not to install them backwards, like I did. I got the center one backwards and had to drill a tiny hole from the inside so I could push it out with a small drill bit. PIA.
Here is the whole canopy with all the magnets installed and holding it together.
Like batteries, care must be taken not to install them backwards, like I did. I got the center one backwards and had to drill a tiny hole from the inside so I could push it out with a small drill bit. PIA.
Here is the whole canopy with all the magnets installed and holding it together.
03-12-2015, 01:33 PM
#1984
A close up of my canopy "cradle". When everything is painted, your cockpit is done, and the front section is permanently installed, it is an easy thing to glue the slider to these cradles with RC 56, adjusting it for a perfect fit. You have a lot of play to get it right, and the glue is nowhere near the rails.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-12-2015 at 01:37 PM.
03-12-2015, 05:10 PM
#1989
Here is a picture of the other side of the cradle, or some might say carriage, and the I beam. This, along with the slotted brass rail, is what you get when you order the slider kit from Meister. You can also find this plastic I beam material at hobby stores and craft stores in the styrene shapes selection. It is used by model train enthusiasts to build bridges and such, for example.
03-12-2015, 05:16 PM
#1990
I mount the rail, slide this I Beam into place, add a small bead of medium CA to the to the styrene beam, then install the aluminum cradle holding it on the outline of the canopy made on the fuselage. Very simple. Then I slide it back off (because of the notch made in the turtledeck earlier) and back up the joint with a bead of Loctite Professional Liquid (found at Lowe's and other places, and one of the strongest CA type glues I know of) on either side of the beam. You'll destroy everything before your canopy comes loose. I don't use the Loctite product for the initial install of the beam to the aluminum because it sets up too fast.
Now, when you slide your canopy open, it is supported by the beam and the aluminum it is glued to, instead of just the molded canopy hanging out there.
Also, when it is time to glue the canopy in place, using RC 56 and this broad strip of aluminum gives you the time and space to work with so you can get it perfectly aligned with the wind screen.
Now, when you slide your canopy open, it is supported by the beam and the aluminum it is glued to, instead of just the molded canopy hanging out there.
Also, when it is time to glue the canopy in place, using RC 56 and this broad strip of aluminum gives you the time and space to work with so you can get it perfectly aligned with the wind screen.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-12-2015 at 06:45 PM.
03-12-2015, 08:00 PM
#1994
Any pictures of the side rails without the canopy, and the inside of the canopy? Of the side components before installation? Looks very nice. This subject may help a lot of guys. Hope so.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-12-2015 at 08:05 PM.
03-13-2015, 02:49 AM
#1995
Rails are brass squar tube, squar solid slide inside, canopy frame is carbon fiber overlay. Rail fram is carbon fiber sub skin. Rear slides is brass tubes side by side soldered together.
This will act as the prototype to the canopy I will do for the Meister with a few modifications and improvements. But the method and system will be the same, a little more detail and maybe a new side rail system. The liner servo worked/ works really well and instalation is easy.
TB
This will act as the prototype to the canopy I will do for the Meister with a few modifications and improvements. But the method and system will be the same, a little more detail and maybe a new side rail system. The liner servo worked/ works really well and instalation is easy.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 03-13-2015 at 02:55 AM.
03-13-2015, 08:07 AM
#1997
With the canopy done, I have moved back inside. Finishing up all the connections and organizing the main harness and sub harnesses to the wings. I leave the tank out till all this is done. Then I'll bolt the cowl flap unit on,rehang the engine, make those connections, and then install the tank.
Punch list is getting smaller.
Punch list is getting smaller.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-13-2015 at 08:12 AM.
03-13-2015, 05:22 PM
#2000
To answer your question though, the primary tool is a # 8 blending stick found at art supply stores, basically a paper stick. On larger panels, spray Windex on them before applying the foil. It goes much esiesr
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-13-2015 at 05:26 PM.