Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
#926
Day one
Today the Saito 100 came in the post. So out of the loft came the P47 Top Flite 60 ARF. I have every thing now to complete the project. I will also read as much of this thread to get the hot tips on the construction. I also have 1 or 2 on the work table so there will be some lapses in the putting togher Yours Paul T
#927
Well so you all are thinking I wonder what has been going on with Paul's P47 And you would be right if you were thinking nothing. Well what I'm now looking at the post man for is a package with a Saito 170R which will arrive next week. I;ve put the Saito 100 back in stock. Yours Paul PS The TF 60 Mustang's not finished either but its so close the weather here has been so good its a flying day every day of the week..
The motor came this week.There is no way this thing will fit so its back like every one else with a Saito 100. the 170 might go in a Texan,the cowl looks bigger One thing I must say the 170 is one nice motor,I'll fid somthing that it will fit in.
The motor came this week.There is no way this thing will fit so its back like every one else with a Saito 100. the 170 might go in a Texan,the cowl looks bigger One thing I must say the 170 is one nice motor,I'll fid somthing that it will fit in.
Last edited by Quigleywins; 09-05-2014 at 08:03 PM.
#928
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I need a little help over here.
My TF P-47 is basically done, but I want to change the engine.
At the beginning, I was willing to install a gas engine, and I did it. I bought a Mintor 22cc, installed it and tried to run with no success. I confess that it happened probably because I'm inexperienced with gas engines. I had only one gas engine in the past and it gave me lots of headache.
Because of that, I didn't even think twice.. I've bought another engine: a OS 95 2-stroke. For my surprise, after installing the engine I noticed that the original muffler is so big that it should be basically impossible to use the engine cowling. Another point is that I should have gone straight to a 4-stroke, since it's more scale appealing.
Well, now I have decided to buy a four stroke engine for the bird and this is the point I'd like to hear from you P-47 pilots.
Which one would be better (not considering the investment): a OS FS-95V or a OS FS-120 III Surpass?
My TF P-47 is basically done, but I want to change the engine.
At the beginning, I was willing to install a gas engine, and I did it. I bought a Mintor 22cc, installed it and tried to run with no success. I confess that it happened probably because I'm inexperienced with gas engines. I had only one gas engine in the past and it gave me lots of headache.
Because of that, I didn't even think twice.. I've bought another engine: a OS 95 2-stroke. For my surprise, after installing the engine I noticed that the original muffler is so big that it should be basically impossible to use the engine cowling. Another point is that I should have gone straight to a 4-stroke, since it's more scale appealing.
Well, now I have decided to buy a four stroke engine for the bird and this is the point I'd like to hear from you P-47 pilots.
Which one would be better (not considering the investment): a OS FS-95V or a OS FS-120 III Surpass?
#929
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Kirk
Let me make a suggestion, use the original OS 95 2 stroke but change out the muffler for a Jett Engineering "Turbo-Jet " in cowl muffler.
http://www.jettengineering.com/
If you mount your engine with the cylinder head at 3:00, the muffler should be fully contained within the cowl. I had this set up for a Top Flite P51 and the only thing showing was the cylinder head of the engine and the exhaust tube of the muffler. In fact, with this configuration there will be less hanging outside the cow than either of your 4 cycle options. One great benefit of this muffler system is that it increases engine top speed by 1200 RPM. My engine was an OS91FX and the top end increased 1500 RPM. The horsepower developed by this combination far exceeds the horsepower of the FS-95V and may exceed that of the FS-120. Last but not least, the cost cost saving of this option.
Good Luck,
Herb
Let me make a suggestion, use the original OS 95 2 stroke but change out the muffler for a Jett Engineering "Turbo-Jet " in cowl muffler.
http://www.jettengineering.com/
If you mount your engine with the cylinder head at 3:00, the muffler should be fully contained within the cowl. I had this set up for a Top Flite P51 and the only thing showing was the cylinder head of the engine and the exhaust tube of the muffler. In fact, with this configuration there will be less hanging outside the cow than either of your 4 cycle options. One great benefit of this muffler system is that it increases engine top speed by 1200 RPM. My engine was an OS91FX and the top end increased 1500 RPM. The horsepower developed by this combination far exceeds the horsepower of the FS-95V and may exceed that of the FS-120. Last but not least, the cost cost saving of this option.
Good Luck,
Herb
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Just received the cowl for the arf version to see if it fits the kit version and it does.
Also the spinner that comes with the ARF will fit an OS GT22 gas engine which is what I will be running.
Also the spinner that comes with the ARF will fit an OS GT22 gas engine which is what I will be running.
#931
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Thanks for the tip lensfriend!
I just got back from the field and I had the chance of breaking in the OS 95 2 stroke. I got the basso inverted muffler and it settled pretty neat. The engine is really powerful and I see now that I did the best keeping it. I didn't had the chance to fly because of the weather, and small tunes I had to do in the plane, but I think I'm on the right track.
Another question: Is there any option regarding the retracts? I'm pretty sure I burned the gear servo without noticing. The plane was on the ground and I probably hit the gear switch and the force made the servo burn. At least it's not working and the servo gear is very heavy to move with my finger. How can I be sure it is really not working?
I was thinking of using the Century Jet Models electric gear, but it's so expensive! Do you guys know any other options?
I just got back from the field and I had the chance of breaking in the OS 95 2 stroke. I got the basso inverted muffler and it settled pretty neat. The engine is really powerful and I see now that I did the best keeping it. I didn't had the chance to fly because of the weather, and small tunes I had to do in the plane, but I think I'm on the right track.
Another question: Is there any option regarding the retracts? I'm pretty sure I burned the gear servo without noticing. The plane was on the ground and I probably hit the gear switch and the force made the servo burn. At least it's not working and the servo gear is very heavy to move with my finger. How can I be sure it is really not working?
I was thinking of using the Century Jet Models electric gear, but it's so expensive! Do you guys know any other options?
Kirk
Let me make a suggestion, use the original OS 95 2 stroke but change out the muffler for a Jett Engineering "Turbo-Jet " in cowl muffler.
http://www.jettengineering.com/
If you mount your engine with the cylinder head at 3:00, the muffler should be fully contained within the cowl. I had this set up for a Top Flite P51 and the only thing showing was the cylinder head of the engine and the exhaust tube of the muffler. In fact, with this configuration there will be less hanging outside the cow than either of your 4 cycle options. One great benefit of this muffler system is that it increases engine top speed by 1200 RPM. My engine was an OS91FX and the top end increased 1500 RPM. The horsepower developed by this combination far exceeds the horsepower of the FS-95V and may exceed that of the FS-120. Last but not least, the cost cost saving of this option.
Good Luck,
Herb
Let me make a suggestion, use the original OS 95 2 stroke but change out the muffler for a Jett Engineering "Turbo-Jet " in cowl muffler.
http://www.jettengineering.com/
If you mount your engine with the cylinder head at 3:00, the muffler should be fully contained within the cowl. I had this set up for a Top Flite P51 and the only thing showing was the cylinder head of the engine and the exhaust tube of the muffler. In fact, with this configuration there will be less hanging outside the cow than either of your 4 cycle options. One great benefit of this muffler system is that it increases engine top speed by 1200 RPM. My engine was an OS91FX and the top end increased 1500 RPM. The horsepower developed by this combination far exceeds the horsepower of the FS-95V and may exceed that of the FS-120. Last but not least, the cost cost saving of this option.
Good Luck,
Herb
#932
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Kirk
Thanks for the kind words.
What I am doing is using 2 Hitec HS-75BB servos to drive my Robart mechanical retracts. You can use the original kit retracts. You will have to remove the tube that the pushrod wire is designed to go though. There is some additional routing of the plastic wheel well to allow the push rod in each wing to be a straight line from the servo to the retract gear. I installed the retracts prior to putting the 2 halves together but you should be able to do it with the halves assembled. Each servo will fit in the existing cut out in the root of the wing. The configuration I described has no binding at all. Once installed it is the most dependable system available. The smaller the retract servo the simpler the installation.
The pushrod will not be straight, there will be one step to align the end of the pushrod with the arm of the retract. The pushrod I keep mentioning is regular 2-56 threaded metal rod.
Good Luck
Herb
Thanks for the kind words.
What I am doing is using 2 Hitec HS-75BB servos to drive my Robart mechanical retracts. You can use the original kit retracts. You will have to remove the tube that the pushrod wire is designed to go though. There is some additional routing of the plastic wheel well to allow the push rod in each wing to be a straight line from the servo to the retract gear. I installed the retracts prior to putting the 2 halves together but you should be able to do it with the halves assembled. Each servo will fit in the existing cut out in the root of the wing. The configuration I described has no binding at all. Once installed it is the most dependable system available. The smaller the retract servo the simpler the installation.
The pushrod will not be straight, there will be one step to align the end of the pushrod with the arm of the retract. The pushrod I keep mentioning is regular 2-56 threaded metal rod.
Good Luck
Herb
Last edited by lensfriend; 10-09-2014 at 09:19 PM. Reason: clarifying detail
#933
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Thank you for sharing your experience!
That's a great tip! I'll try it for sure! The rigging for the single servo operation is so hard to do and I was never satisfied at all. I was not sure about the locking of the left leg.
I bought scale wheels and as they are wider than the stock ones, they are touching the strut sometimes. Do you see it as problem?
I'm uploading two photos from the engine installation!
Cheers!
Kirk
That's a great tip! I'll try it for sure! The rigging for the single servo operation is so hard to do and I was never satisfied at all. I was not sure about the locking of the left leg.
I bought scale wheels and as they are wider than the stock ones, they are touching the strut sometimes. Do you see it as problem?
I'm uploading two photos from the engine installation!
Cheers!
Kirk
Kirk
Thanks for the kind words.
What I am doing is using 2 Hitec HS-75BB servos to drive my Robart mechanical retracts. You can use the original kit retracts. You will have to remove the tube that the pushrod wire is designed to go though. There is some additional routing of the plastic wheel well to allow the push rod in each wing to be a straight line from the servo to the retract gear. I installed the retracts prior to putting the 2 halves together but you should be able to do it with the halves assembled. Each servo will fit in the existing cut out in the root of the wing. The configuration I described has no binding at all. Once installed it is the most dependable system available. The smaller the retract servo the simpler the installation.
The pushrod will not be straight, there will be one step to align the end of the pushrod with the arm of the retract. The pushrod I keep mentioning is regular 2-56 threaded metal rod.
Good Luck
Herb
Thanks for the kind words.
What I am doing is using 2 Hitec HS-75BB servos to drive my Robart mechanical retracts. You can use the original kit retracts. You will have to remove the tube that the pushrod wire is designed to go though. There is some additional routing of the plastic wheel well to allow the push rod in each wing to be a straight line from the servo to the retract gear. I installed the retracts prior to putting the 2 halves together but you should be able to do it with the halves assembled. Each servo will fit in the existing cut out in the root of the wing. The configuration I described has no binding at all. Once installed it is the most dependable system available. The smaller the retract servo the simpler the installation.
The pushrod will not be straight, there will be one step to align the end of the pushrod with the arm of the retract. The pushrod I keep mentioning is regular 2-56 threaded metal rod.
Good Luck
Herb
#934
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Nice photos. OS really makes pretty engines.
I would not fly with the wheels rubbing even intermittently. I used the kit wheels with the Robart struts and dad a similar problem. A #6 washer behind the wheel was all it took to cure the problem. Someone once said to me"minor problems on the ground become major problems in the air".
Herb
I would not fly with the wheels rubbing even intermittently. I used the kit wheels with the Robart struts and dad a similar problem. A #6 washer behind the wheel was all it took to cure the problem. Someone once said to me"minor problems on the ground become major problems in the air".
Herb
#935
My Feedback: (13)
I bought a new TF P-47 ARF .60 in early October. Will go with a Saito 125 and the kit retracts at least to start with.
An early problem was the limited throw on the flaps, less than 1". I worked them on up to an 1 1/2" or so, but still below the 2" design. Looks like some others posting in this thread also had this problem. I will probably go with it as is. Someday when I am more ambitious I may cut the flaps off and re-do them.
This will be my first P-47 although I have had several other TF warbird ARFs.
Brian
An early problem was the limited throw on the flaps, less than 1". I worked them on up to an 1 1/2" or so, but still below the 2" design. Looks like some others posting in this thread also had this problem. I will probably go with it as is. Someday when I am more ambitious I may cut the flaps off and re-do them.
This will be my first P-47 although I have had several other TF warbird ARFs.
Brian
#936
My Feedback: (13)
Retracts are installed with a Spektrum A7040 Retract servo. I lowered the retract installation a little by taking out some wood below the retract and making new "ears" for the retract mounts. See the pictures.
Got the ailerons, flaps, and associated servos installed and working. As I mentioned in the earlier post the flap throw is limited. Its even worse than I thought with maybe 1" of throw. Probably won't worry too much about that, but I am disappointed.
Got the ailerons, flaps, and associated servos installed and working. As I mentioned in the earlier post the flap throw is limited. Its even worse than I thought with maybe 1" of throw. Probably won't worry too much about that, but I am disappointed.
#938
Retracts are installed with a Spektrum A7040 Retract servo. I lowered the retract installation a little by taking out some wood below the retract and making new "ears" for the retract mounts. See the pictures.
Got the ailerons, flaps, and associated servos installed and working. As I mentioned in the earlier post the flap throw is limited. Its even worse than I thought with maybe 1" of throw. Probably won't worry too much about that, but I am disappointed.
Got the ailerons, flaps, and associated servos installed and working. As I mentioned in the earlier post the flap throw is limited. Its even worse than I thought with maybe 1" of throw. Probably won't worry too much about that, but I am disappointed.
#939
My Feedback: (13)
Getting close to finishing up on this P-47. A few minor things to do, then test run the engine and get it tuned. CG came out right on the design point without any additional weight or even moving anything around. Could not have come closer if I had been trying. That is a first.
The Spectrum retract servo is working just fine. The plug is a very loose fit in a futaba connector though. I finally plugged it into a short extension and tied the connection together.
And a few pictures.
Brian
The Spectrum retract servo is working just fine. The plug is a very loose fit in a futaba connector though. I finally plugged it into a short extension and tied the connection together.
And a few pictures.
Brian
#941
My Feedback: (13)
Maiden flight resulted in a total loss.
Nice day, light wind down runway, plane systems, engine checked good. Easy take-off, trimmed with a few clicks of up and left aileron. Made a couple of circuits at different speeds. Came by up 150 ft or so, medium speed, and dropped flaps about 10 degrees. No problems. Came back around, dropped full flaps (20 degrees, as posted earlier flaps would not go to full design throw). Maybe a little ballooning. Looking good. Still high. On downwind leg of landing pattern, dropped gear, nose slightly down. Started easy left turn, plane snapped. At about 50 ft I pulled it out wings level, but headed downwind. Snapped again and straight in.
I probably was going too slow for the turn. Have not seen anything that might indicate a mechanical problem, fuel tank was 25% full, RX works, battery OK.
Bummer, many, many flights on less well behaved warbirds and I do not remember losing one at this point in a flight.
Brian
Nice day, light wind down runway, plane systems, engine checked good. Easy take-off, trimmed with a few clicks of up and left aileron. Made a couple of circuits at different speeds. Came by up 150 ft or so, medium speed, and dropped flaps about 10 degrees. No problems. Came back around, dropped full flaps (20 degrees, as posted earlier flaps would not go to full design throw). Maybe a little ballooning. Looking good. Still high. On downwind leg of landing pattern, dropped gear, nose slightly down. Started easy left turn, plane snapped. At about 50 ft I pulled it out wings level, but headed downwind. Snapped again and straight in.
I probably was going too slow for the turn. Have not seen anything that might indicate a mechanical problem, fuel tank was 25% full, RX works, battery OK.
Bummer, many, many flights on less well behaved warbirds and I do not remember losing one at this point in a flight.
Brian
#943
aghost ...''Bugger'' that is not a nice look. Thanks for the great Report too often we see the result with out the good report. Lifer said it all (sad sight)
Hope your on the next build by now. Yours Paul T
Hope your on the next build by now. Yours Paul T
#945
My Feedback: (13)
Quigleywins, Lifer - thanks for the comments. I am assembling a Seagull Zero now. As for the P-47 demise, I have gone through checking/salvaging items. All the servos still work. All the control surfaces except one flap were still attached and working. Loose flap was connected by pushrod and it looks like the loose flap was crash damage. Both aileron servos broke lose from the mounts. The breaks were in the wood, not the glue joint so I am pretty sure it was crash damage. Both wingbolts snapped right at the wing/ fuse interface.
The CG was on the design point. The main wing incidence at mid aileron was 0 deg on both sides (did this check when I was doing the final CG check near the end of the build).
I made a gear pass with full flaps prior to going into the landing pattern. So I already made some turns in that configuration before the crash. Plane handled just fine. The snaps were bad. Half roll and straight down in an instant. I still think I was too slow and too low.
Brian
The CG was on the design point. The main wing incidence at mid aileron was 0 deg on both sides (did this check when I was doing the final CG check near the end of the build).
I made a gear pass with full flaps prior to going into the landing pattern. So I already made some turns in that configuration before the crash. Plane handled just fine. The snaps were bad. Half roll and straight down in an instant. I still think I was too slow and too low.
Brian
#949
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Successful re-maiden this past weekend of a second hand ARF kit. Airplane has an OS 90 2-stroke and Robart air/spring retracts with offset Robart struts. Very smooth flying plane and quite fast with the 90 up front. I made a few adjustments to some of the linkages and gear but it was pretty much install a new receiver and fly. Landings are a challenge and the soft wet field didn't help any. Stayed on it's wheels for most landings but did skid along on its chin one time. It can be hard to distinguish orientation at a distance so you want to keep an eye on it. The former owner added white stripes to the tops of the wings to help.
Video here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVri...ature=youtu.be
Jaybird
Video here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVri...ature=youtu.be
Jaybird