Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

You will have to order the green multiplex male side of the plug and solder it up yourself. You can get the plugs from www.Dreamworks.com

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

Just mount it in the plane and go fly it at the factory settings.

Prolonged running on the ground is not a good thing for these motors as they overheat to easily with out air flow over the cylinders..

Growler84

My Feedback: (8)

I agree completely, if you must ground run it for whatever reason limit the run to no more than a couple of minutes. It's best not to like Greg said.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

This post is requesting help from owners/ suppliers of the oldest moki 215's. I have acquired at a great price a 215 serial # 661 in new condition. I have installed a turbulator and fuel pump and have run it on my test stand. It runs well. I assume it has the brass idler gear for the cam ring and the "roller" cam followers. I understand these can be a problem after a few hours of operation. The cam followers cannot be removed by simply pulling them out like I can on my newer 215's and there is no vent hole on the pulse pump. Should the old style cam followers be replaced at once? Are the followers removable by unscrewing the follower guides? Should the brass idler be replaced if this engine has one? A breakdown of the serial # of when these changes have been made would also be helpful. Thank you in advance. -Tom

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Thank you from private conversations. All questions answered. -Tom

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

I've been running the APS pump on my Moki 250 for sometime now with good success. I don't know if it's been considered or mentioned in this forum, but has anyone tried using a Perry Oscillating Pump VP-22SG to supplement piston pump on the Moki ????? Not being familiar with the Perry, I would question if it would provide the pressure needed to replace the APS.

http://www.perrypumps.com/prod02.htm

Jaketab

badangle

My Feedback: (1)

Ok guys, 5000mha 7.4 volt lipo battery and charger ready....waiting for mps connectors to arrive.
Found gas station with non-ethanol gas. Haven't looked for oil yet but I'm sure ill find something to
Use...this 180 radial is going to be my retirement project. ..one more year.....but I want to start it up
Before warranty expires.

GeorgiaFlyer

I use a synthetic oil with these motors. Amsoil Dominator mixed at 50:1. If you mix it any richer it can cause build up on the valves and they can stick also will burn rich and keep the #1 cylinder from firing hot enough.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

I have used many brands and I favor Red Line oil. You can get it from Desert Aircraft engines. -Tom

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

I'm also in favor of RedLine oil. I get mine from Amazon.com
I buy it a gallon at a time on there.

darryltarr

My Feedback: (2)

"Ditto" Greg and Maxam. I have been using RedLine on my MOKI 250 for 4 years now at 40:1. The climate here can be very warm and dry (hence 40:1), and RedLine comes TOP.

My New MOKI 250 has an Electric Start System and can't wait to test it out !!

Darryl

rbgetz

I use redline in all my gas engines.. Moki 300 and also my 3W 100cc and multiple DA60cc engines. Cylinder heads are all clean. never an issue. I've been running at 50:1. I've also been adding 1 oz of Sea Foam Engine treatment per gallon as well. rob.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Yep! Seafoam here too.

tmac48

HI all could someone suggest what is the best or what you use to lube the rockers?
thanks tmac48

darryltarr

My Feedback: (2)

Hi tmac48,

I have used many different applications but the best for me is WD-40. But please bear in mind that where you fly (climate and field conditions), will definitely influence the choice you make.

Our climate here is Warm and Dry (desert with low humidity), and although the field is asphalt and lush green grass, the environment can be very sandy and dusty. Before the days flying I will give a generous squirt of WD-40, and a little squirt before every flight. Then, after the days flying (typically three flights), I will use a tooth brush and generous squirts of DW-40 to clean all the carbon and residue off. Then my engine gets wrapped in a towel (Prop and Cowling OFF), when not being flown.

Other good LUBE's that I tried were:

DuPont Teflon Dry Wax Lubricant and Zefal Dry Lube, but I think there is too much heat and dust for them to perform well.

I also tried Kettenol Synthetic Oil (perhaps best used in cold winter climates).

Kind regards,

Darryl

The Flying Scot

Hi all,

Cany anyone advise which K&N air filter is used on the moki 180. If the part number is not available some dimensions will help.

I am trying to source one in the UK as the cost of carraige etc from the usa will be more than the cost of the filter.
I know I will have to make my own mounting flange.

Best regards

Arthur

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Arthur, it is F010C4 from K&N. -Tom
ID 15/16 to go on a 1 inch tube.

The Flying Scot

Thanks Tom,
Unfortunately I cant find anything under that part number. Can you give me the outside diameter and the height please.

Art

Ragz

I find that after every 2 runs the exhaust nuts get loose by almost half a turn. Is this normal? I loosened them up and they do have teflon tape on them. Its quite a pain to keep removing the cowl to check these nuts.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Art, the overall dia is 2" ,length is 1and 7/8. The portion that would fit to the engine OD is 1 and 3/8" -Tom

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Some of you might like this project I just completed with a "Mini Moki". The engine is a Seidel ST540 of 40 cc. The plane is a Pietenpol Sky Scout. It is 1/4 scale. The engine ran lousy so I made an adapter on the lathe so a Saito 90R3 carb could be used instead of the OS 10 two stroke carb the engine came with. This worked very well. Kelvin at Keleo Creations made the exhaust for me. The shocks on the landing gear are functional. -Tom

GeorgiaFlyer

Wow very nice looking plane and motor. Never seen one of those before.

darryltarr

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Anurag, that is absolutely normal

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Anurag, Purchase high temperature silicone material. it is red in color. Unscrew the exhaust nuts almost but not all the way (can be quite difficult to restart the threads). apply the silicone to the threads on the ring neatly and thinly filling the grooves. Then screw the nuts down but not too tightly. Too tight damages the teflon. Wipe any excess off immediately because it has to look good! -Tom

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Thank you Georgia flyer. I hope you did not get any rain damage. -Tom