Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Heraldo, Keep the voltage below 6 volts. I run 5.5 volts. I believe the upper limit is 6 volts. -Tom

Straightleg

Well, according to Moki,the new ignition system is LiPo ready...

/Straightleg

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

That would be nice! Does it look the same?

wxman2

My Feedback: (52)

This is what the high voltage (6-9v) version looks like.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Thank you Wxman. -Tom I hope if mine ever needs replacing this will simply plug in without anything else needing replacement.

GliderKing1

Hi Guys!

Thanks for a helpful forum on the Moki subject. I have plowed thru all 97 pages and it was very helpful even though a " time eater "..!

This last weekend our local Modell flying club, Ållebergs MFK (www.rcflyg.com) arranged Swedens very first meeting for older scale model gliders produced before 1960. The event is called the "Old Vintage Scale Gliders Meeting" and it came down to a big succés with lots of succesful tows and at this meeting I finally introduced my new built PT-17 Stearman in scale 1:3 equiped with a MOKI 215. Building time appr. 800 hrs. Total weight of the plane is appr. 54 lbs......I will be running a wooden prop of 34 x 14 for the maiden flight.....in this first start attempt I´m using a carbon fiber prop of 32x12.....but only for test runs...

So this was the first day that my plane saw the sun and day light....and it was my first attempt to start up the engine....

After a couple of winds under the choke phase it made som noise!! so in with the choke and at the first turn of the propeller it fired up.....and I let it run on the low speed for a couple of minutes before testing the upper speed and boy....it spins like a tiger on the low speed and "bites" like a lion on the upper speed range.

I didn´t fly the machine this day but I did som nice and good ground runs (for about 30 minutes) , just to be sure that everything is as it should be....and surprisingly there were only some major fine adjustments to be made on the plane......so the plane goes back to my workbench before my next attempt to make the Maiden flights....

I´m running a 4,8V ignition battery and no pump.....just straight out of the box.....!

Heres a couple of pictures.....

shaked israel

very nice airplane, love the stearman.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (2)

Have been hearing about how great the RED LINE two stroke Racing OIL is and See DA and other say it is what they recommend for there Motors. I have used 100:1 AMSOIL at 50:1, herd from other there has been a hard build up of carbon on top of the pistons and has in some cases had to return the motor for repair.


Anyone using RED LINE in there Mokie, I have a 250 Composite Corsair 25 flight AND AM GOING TO MIX A NEW FUEL. 40:1 RED LINE MYBE MY NEW MIX??

reyn3545

I'm using Red Line in my Moki, but I'm still on my first can of gas. I've used it in my other gas engines for quite some time... at 50:1, it will leave some residue on the bottom of your plane. I used it for about 2 years in a DA170.. when I sold the motor, the cylinder walls and piston top were almost as clean as when it was new. I've heard other people say that switching to Red Line has cleaned up components that were previously carboned up. I don't know that there's a magic "snake oil" that will cure everything... but I'm happy with the product.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (2)

Great to here your report I am using 40/1 red line in all other motor DA 120, Gt33, Dle20, 3w 157, and just not sure how much to us in the Mokie 250, am now thinking to use 40:1 in to Mokie 250.

Growler84

My Feedback: (8)

My friend Phil and I have a Moki 250 in a Corsair and have put over 100 15-20 minute flights on this combo using nothing but Redline 50:1. Shining a light into the spark plug holes reveals spotless new-looking piston tops.

reyn3545

Maybe it's just Marvel Mystery Oil in a new (more expensive) package?

wingstrut

I wouldn't doubt it, Marvel mystery oil is great stuff! It's basically automatic transmission oil with different additives.

I thought Amsoil was going to eliminate excess build up of sludge, carbon, and all this other crudd.
Now it isn't working and causing a problem that requires an engine repair.

Is there any proof besides that one report stating that Amsoil is causing carbon build up that could possibly cause engine problems.
The manufacturer states that Amsoil will burn clean and eliminate any build up of deposits, then I look at my exhaust and wonder why it's coming out black and the black carbon deposits on my spark plugs make me wonder who is pulling whose leg, my dinosaur oil did the same thing, now where is the improvement.
I haven't used Amsoil long enough to make an educated decision on whether it is the right stuff to use

I know that Redline is a synthetic, what type of redline are you guys using, they make a lot of different ones, probably differs mainly from the additives they put in it.
I would like to try it and see if I still get the buildup of carbon on the plugs.

Thanks for the info guys................Ron


Waco brother #216

heraldoboldrin

In brasil we usually use motul ranging 800 on all gas engines with 50/1
And never had a problem

reyn3545

Moki experts...

I've got a 150, running a 26x17 prop and my plane weighs about 30 pounds. I'm getting about 5100/5200 RPM on the ground with this prop. Is that about what I should expect out of this motor? I'm considering going to a prop with more speed, I don't think the plane's weight would be a problem for a faster prop. Your thougts?

Ro

Nice P47, what plans did you start with?

heraldoboldrin

do you think I can use POwerbox spark switch in the ignition?
Powerbox can handle 2A and peak 4.5A

Straightleg

The Moki draws less than one amp on full throttle...

Detlef Kunkel

Ro, the kit is not produced any longer, as the mould was damaged 6 years ago. Only a handful of copies were made.
Scale is 4,4 ( as todays CARF-P47) but much higher detailling. And its a Bubble-Top of course


-


BTW my Moki 180 in the Hellcat did its first run on the rainbowtronic ignition. Did not fly it yet due to bad weather, but looks allright on the ground. More performance and better running characteristics (although this special 180 was very fine tuned before, and really performed not so bad).
The weak point was and still is the carb. Like with most RC-engines, it doesnt fit too good to what the engine requires. The medium range is too rich, but the new ignition handles thisgiven situation better. The throw-out of unburnt gas is reduced by 90% or more.
Best advice I can give for carb setup is leaning the idle to a point when you see the acceleration being slightlyaffected. The engine will not quit in flight when the airstream drives the prop during approach, but the medium range benefits very much from being leaner. The overall behaviour is best in the needle setup. making the idle too lean means the engine will refuse to beingstarted, and the idel is not stableany more. Find outthe "best" leanest point is what it takes! Main needle set to max performance like with any other engine, no correction to neither direction.

Looking forward to fly it.

If it only stopped raining...

reyn3545

So, are you leaning out the low-end needle to reach the highest idle RPM? I've done that, but the motor likes to quit (on the ground) when I throttle down quickly. As you mentioned, that might not happen during flight, but I don't want to try it!

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Hey Reyn, You have observed what I have. If like Detlef suggested when you throttle down quickly sometimes the engine quits. Here is what I did; You are using a 26x17 and getting 5100 RPM which is quite good. Problem is, it can be hard to land with that much pitch 'cause the plane won't slow down! I set my 215 to 600 rpm and adjust as lean as I can and have reasonable reliability at idle. What I also did was I set the servo speed on the throttle slower so the engine does not quit when abruptly throttled down. Now of course not too slow or that would be very dangerous! -Tom

reyn3545

I've thought about setting the servo speed to a slower decelerating rate... that should help. I also have a hi/low idle speed set up in the plane, and don't go to the low idle speed until I'm making the final turn to land. I think between the two, I should be able to get dependable performance. Thanks.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Hey Reyn, How old is your 150? If before 2009 you can install the turbulator invented by Detlef. It works very well. -Tom

Detlef Kunkel

Folks, I understand your comments, but the answer is really simple.

DONT slow down on the throttle like lightning(!!)

 Its a radial engine, has some characteristics due to the volume of the crankcase that the mixture is running through, and the careful owner deals (and can live)  with those characteristics.

In fact, a carefully adjusted Moki WILL ALWAYS  come to an extremely low idle ( if not quitting) for a second or so,  when cut down too fast.
Believe me, thats normal AND a sign that the adjustment is the best you can do, with a primitive carb like we use here.



Dont worry about that, it WILL NOT happen in flight.   In 8  years of flying Moki engines, there was no single second where I was in doubt about the engine. Not that it was always perfect, I had my share of issues, too. But it always brought me home safely.

And- once you know about that - be a little more easy on the throttle.
You are not in LeMans on the fast lane

reyn3545

Good question... I bought it "new" from a hobby dealer here in the US. It was "new" from the standpoint that it had not been mounted or ran, but it turned out to be an RCS instead of a Moki, and I don't really know how old it is.

Not a real problem.. it's a solid running motor with the new ignition from Goetz, I just need to manage that throttle down. That shouldn't be a huge problem.

What I really need to focus on is finding the right plane for this motor. I put it in a Pilot Yak, just to get familiar with it... but I really want to find an old Waco or Stearman that could run without the cowl on it.