MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
04-09-2011, 03:12 AM
#1152
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
I am looking for a new or used in excellent condition Moki 250, if anybody has one sitting around that they want to sell. I could not come up with the money fast enough when kochj was selling his 215. Please PM me if you have one that you might want to get rid off. Thanks.
Jason
Jason
04-10-2011, 11:11 AM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Hello again
Finally finishing up my first Moki bird ...Vailly Fw190 with a 150 in it. Been a lot of fun! Just did the first engine test runs with my buddy Mitch and I was concerned about overheating?
Was reading through the thread a bit here again but there is so much to read but some ther guys were saying don't go over 230F....but the temps we were getting on the ground, with 24x16 3 blade and a 26x16 2 blade ,with and without a FW fan, were as high as 265F at full throttle. Now was over heating due to being on the ground, high pitch prop, tight cowl, lack of air exit, all of the above, etc or is this about normal under these conditions and flying is a different story?
We did not use synthetic oil and it was at 32:1
The static temps from the factory were 239F on their enclosed sheet? That would be of course non-cowled I presume?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0sCZSAOyry8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgGkv...eature=related
Matt
Finally finishing up my first Moki bird ...Vailly Fw190 with a 150 in it. Been a lot of fun! Just did the first engine test runs with my buddy Mitch and I was concerned about overheating?
Was reading through the thread a bit here again but there is so much to read but some ther guys were saying don't go over 230F....but the temps we were getting on the ground, with 24x16 3 blade and a 26x16 2 blade ,with and without a FW fan, were as high as 265F at full throttle. Now was over heating due to being on the ground, high pitch prop, tight cowl, lack of air exit, all of the above, etc or is this about normal under these conditions and flying is a different story?
We did not use synthetic oil and it was at 32:1
The static temps from the factory were 239F on their enclosed sheet? That would be of course non-cowled I presume?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0sCZSAOyry8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgGkv...eature=related
Matt
04-10-2011, 11:34 AM
#1154
Thread Starter
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Matt,
The factory now recommends 50:1. That's what I run right out of the box (Amsoil) less restrictive on the engine and much cleaner burning. I'm sure your temps in the air will be considerably cooler than anything on the ground.
I would want to open up as much air exit area as you can stand on that beauty and get it in the air. Upon landing, check the temps immediately. I mean right now, the instant you can run out there and check before it gets much of a chance to heat back up. Don't waste any time on a taxi back if you can. Another thing to consider is that it has a bunch more friction right now as everything is beginning to seat.
See you in a few weeks,
Scott
The factory now recommends 50:1. That's what I run right out of the box (Amsoil) less restrictive on the engine and much cleaner burning. I'm sure your temps in the air will be considerably cooler than anything on the ground.
I would want to open up as much air exit area as you can stand on that beauty and get it in the air. Upon landing, check the temps immediately. I mean right now, the instant you can run out there and check before it gets much of a chance to heat back up. Don't waste any time on a taxi back if you can. Another thing to consider is that it has a bunch more friction right now as everything is beginning to seat.
See you in a few weeks,
Scott
04-10-2011, 12:32 PM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Matt,
You are overheating your engine! It is not clear how much exit air area is available, but it is certainly alot less then 3:1. Running on the ground provides much less air flow then you realize. It made me cringe to watch your video and see the engine run that hard for that long. Also, taking temperature measurement with an IR pyrometer while the enigine is running is very crude. Even so. I heard you call out temperatures that were 100 deg. apart. My guess is that your top cyclinder was runnig closer to 300 deg at full throttle. I would be very careful with ground running and keep the run times short and don't run it without a spinner if possible.
Since you spent thousands of dollars for the engine, I would stongly recommend that you invest another $170 for an onboard data system to get actual cylinder head temperatures. Egale Tree has a very nice system and there are others. I have three radial engines, plus several big twins and I refuse to run any of them without a data system. If all the cylinders aren't running at approximately the same temperature (+/- 5 deg.), the engine is not tuned accurately.
I was amazed at my first actual inflight data when I instrumented my first engine. I thought I had a well tuned engine because is "seemed" to run "great". I've hear that statement from people all the time and my only question is "How do you know?" My position is that "If you don't have data, you don't have a clue".
I apologize for the bit of a rant, but it cost me over $400 to have a 250 radial rebuilt because of overheating. Since then I have been very careful.
I just bought two new radials and the first thing I am going to do is remove the collector ring and exhaust stacks and have them ceramic coated. Good ceramic coating will reduce the radiant heating from the exhaust collector ring by about 30%. This, in turn, reduces the in cowl temperatures significently and allows you to baffle the air flow across the cylinder heads. This would be particularly beneficial for aircraft with limited exit area.
Just remember that opinions are worth about what you pay for them.
Good luck,
You are overheating your engine! It is not clear how much exit air area is available, but it is certainly alot less then 3:1. Running on the ground provides much less air flow then you realize. It made me cringe to watch your video and see the engine run that hard for that long. Also, taking temperature measurement with an IR pyrometer while the enigine is running is very crude. Even so. I heard you call out temperatures that were 100 deg. apart. My guess is that your top cyclinder was runnig closer to 300 deg at full throttle. I would be very careful with ground running and keep the run times short and don't run it without a spinner if possible.
Since you spent thousands of dollars for the engine, I would stongly recommend that you invest another $170 for an onboard data system to get actual cylinder head temperatures. Egale Tree has a very nice system and there are others. I have three radial engines, plus several big twins and I refuse to run any of them without a data system. If all the cylinders aren't running at approximately the same temperature (+/- 5 deg.), the engine is not tuned accurately.
I was amazed at my first actual inflight data when I instrumented my first engine. I thought I had a well tuned engine because is "seemed" to run "great". I've hear that statement from people all the time and my only question is "How do you know?" My position is that "If you don't have data, you don't have a clue".
I apologize for the bit of a rant, but it cost me over $400 to have a 250 radial rebuilt because of overheating. Since then I have been very careful.
I just bought two new radials and the first thing I am going to do is remove the collector ring and exhaust stacks and have them ceramic coated. Good ceramic coating will reduce the radiant heating from the exhaust collector ring by about 30%. This, in turn, reduces the in cowl temperatures significently and allows you to baffle the air flow across the cylinder heads. This would be particularly beneficial for aircraft with limited exit area.
Just remember that opinions are worth about what you pay for them.
Good luck,
04-10-2011, 04:09 PM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: germrb
Matt,
You are overheating your engine! It is not clear how much exit air area is available, but it is certainly alot less then 3:1. Running on the ground provides much less air flow then you realize. It made me cringe to watch your video and see the engine run that hard for that long. Also, taking temperature measurement with an IR pyrometer while the enigine is running is very crude. Even so. I heard you call out temperatures that were 100 deg. apart. My guess is that your top cyclinder was runnig closer to 300 deg at full throttle. I would be very careful with ground running and keep the run times short and don't run it without a spinner if possible.
Since you spent thousands of dollars for the engine, I would stongly recommend that you invest another $170 for an onboard data system to get actual cylinder head temperatures. Egale Tree has a very nice system and there are others. I have three radial engines, plus several big twins and I refuse to run any of them without a data system. If all the cylinders aren't running at approximately the same temperature (+/- 5 deg.), the engine is not tuned accurately.
I was amazed at my first actual inflight data when I instrumented my first engine. I thought I had a well tuned engine because is "seemed" to run "great". I've hear that statement from people all the time and my only question is "How do you know?" My position is that "If you don't have data, you don't have a clue".
I apologize for the bit of a rant, but it cost me over $400 to have a 250 radial rebuilt because of overheating. Since then I have been very careful.
I just bought two new radials and the first thing I am going to do is remove the collector ring and exhaust stacks and have them ceramic coated. Good ceramic coating will reduce the radiant heating from the exhaust collector ring by about 30%. This, in turn, reduces the in cowl temperatures significently and allows you to baffle the air flow across the cylinder heads. This would be particularly beneficial for aircraft with limited exit area.
Just remember that opinions are worth about what you pay for them.
Good luck,
Matt,
You are overheating your engine! It is not clear how much exit air area is available, but it is certainly alot less then 3:1. Running on the ground provides much less air flow then you realize. It made me cringe to watch your video and see the engine run that hard for that long. Also, taking temperature measurement with an IR pyrometer while the enigine is running is very crude. Even so. I heard you call out temperatures that were 100 deg. apart. My guess is that your top cyclinder was runnig closer to 300 deg at full throttle. I would be very careful with ground running and keep the run times short and don't run it without a spinner if possible.
Since you spent thousands of dollars for the engine, I would stongly recommend that you invest another $170 for an onboard data system to get actual cylinder head temperatures. Egale Tree has a very nice system and there are others. I have three radial engines, plus several big twins and I refuse to run any of them without a data system. If all the cylinders aren't running at approximately the same temperature (+/- 5 deg.), the engine is not tuned accurately.
I was amazed at my first actual inflight data when I instrumented my first engine. I thought I had a well tuned engine because is "seemed" to run "great". I've hear that statement from people all the time and my only question is "How do you know?" My position is that "If you don't have data, you don't have a clue".
I apologize for the bit of a rant, but it cost me over $400 to have a 250 radial rebuilt because of overheating. Since then I have been very careful.
I just bought two new radials and the first thing I am going to do is remove the collector ring and exhaust stacks and have them ceramic coated. Good ceramic coating will reduce the radiant heating from the exhaust collector ring by about 30%. This, in turn, reduces the in cowl temperatures significently and allows you to baffle the air flow across the cylinder heads. This would be particularly beneficial for aircraft with limited exit area.
Just remember that opinions are worth about what you pay for them.
Good luck,
germrb,
How are you monitoring all five head tempe with the Ealge Tree; it looks like it supports three temsp per data logger. Do you have two data loggers installed?
John
04-10-2011, 04:42 PM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
John,
To date, I have been monitoring only the #1 & #3 cylinders. Based on experience and conversations with Mike Dooley at TBM, these are traditionally the hottest and coolest cylinders. This seems to be a fair assumption based on ground tests and quick checks with an IR pyrometer. Also, the #3 cylinder is traditionally the one that drops out from excessive oil build up.
To answer your specific question, you can monitor all five cylinders with two thermocouple expanders. With my new engines I am going to invest in the additional instrumentation to monitor all five cylinders. By introducing ceramic coating and possible glass wrapping, I will build baffles to force all the air across the cylinders. With this arrangement, knowing the performance of each cylinder is the only way I know to optimize the tuning.
I also use APS 380 fuel pumps on all my radials. This eliminates dependence on the air pump and the problems with pulse tube blockage. I'm sure Mitch can tell us how invaluable the pumps are for reliable performance. I have a turbulator for my new 250, but have no data on its effect on performance. Theoretically, it should provide improved fuel distribution and therefore more even cylinder performance. Don't know for sure.
To date, I have been monitoring only the #1 & #3 cylinders. Based on experience and conversations with Mike Dooley at TBM, these are traditionally the hottest and coolest cylinders. This seems to be a fair assumption based on ground tests and quick checks with an IR pyrometer. Also, the #3 cylinder is traditionally the one that drops out from excessive oil build up.
To answer your specific question, you can monitor all five cylinders with two thermocouple expanders. With my new engines I am going to invest in the additional instrumentation to monitor all five cylinders. By introducing ceramic coating and possible glass wrapping, I will build baffles to force all the air across the cylinders. With this arrangement, knowing the performance of each cylinder is the only way I know to optimize the tuning.
I also use APS 380 fuel pumps on all my radials. This eliminates dependence on the air pump and the problems with pulse tube blockage. I'm sure Mitch can tell us how invaluable the pumps are for reliable performance. I have a turbulator for my new 250, but have no data on its effect on performance. Theoretically, it should provide improved fuel distribution and therefore more even cylinder performance. Don't know for sure.
04-10-2011, 04:59 PM
#1158
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Bob, I have experience with the turbulator on the 150 and 215. Evens the cylinders right up, if not rotate it 180 degrees. Becomes a much finer running engine and plugs all look the same and stunningly low reliable idle of 500 rpm. Good night! -Tom
04-10-2011, 05:12 PM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Tom.
Thanks for the input. You're the first one I've heard from with some experience. That's just the kind of experience that is really valuable to the community. The exceptionally low idle was one of the features that people in Europe were claiming.
Can I assume that the same turbulator is applicable to both the 150 and 215/250?
Thanks again,
Thanks for the input. You're the first one I've heard from with some experience. That's just the kind of experience that is really valuable to the community. The exceptionally low idle was one of the features that people in Europe were claiming.
Can I assume that the same turbulator is applicable to both the 150 and 215/250?
Thanks again,
04-10-2011, 06:56 PM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
hey thanks for the tips guys...I'll check into those ideas..any links for that Turbulator?
ceramic idea sounds cool too...
Scott ...what 3 blade are you using again...did you find one at 24x16 ready to go?
ceramic idea sounds cool too...
Scott ...what 3 blade are you using again...did you find one at 24x16 ready to go?
04-11-2011, 02:52 AM
#1163
Thread Starter
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Matt,
On my 150 I've been running only a 26 x 16 two blade Xoar and never changed it in two years now. Absolutely love it and now that it's broke in I'm pushing 5400 rpm on the ground.
On the 215 and 250's I run Solo Props three blade paddle design. They're both 30" and set to 14" and 17.5" respectively. Getting about 4300 and 4400 rpm respectively if my memory serves my correct.
On my 150 I've been running only a 26 x 16 two blade Xoar and never changed it in two years now. Absolutely love it and now that it's broke in I'm pushing 5400 rpm on the ground.
On the 215 and 250's I run Solo Props three blade paddle design. They're both 30" and set to 14" and 17.5" respectively. Getting about 4300 and 4400 rpm respectively if my memory serves my correct.
04-11-2011, 05:23 AM
#1164
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Friends,
like said before, please dont use Turbulator kits on other engines than recommended. 215 and 250 are the same, but the 150 is NOT.
150 engines after fall 2009 had modifications done to the inlet port, thishas not beentuned with the turbulator kit and thus does NOT work in combination.
And it is true, as long as there are no other faults (bad plugs or ignition) it is sufficient to watch No 1 (hottest) and No 3 (coldest) cyl. in flight with a non- turbulator equipped engine.
A friend sent me this series of pictures taken with an expensive thermal sensitive camera. The first row show (his) typical 250 engine instandart condition.
The second row is taken after installing the turbulator kit. Beginning from idle to full power.
A very typical situation.
For those who believe that it is not so bad with the mixture that is supplied to each cylinder.
The camera shows it very clearly what many of you already have experienced. .
like said before, please dont use Turbulator kits on other engines than recommended. 215 and 250 are the same, but the 150 is NOT.
150 engines after fall 2009 had modifications done to the inlet port, thishas not beentuned with the turbulator kit and thus does NOT work in combination.
And it is true, as long as there are no other faults (bad plugs or ignition) it is sufficient to watch No 1 (hottest) and No 3 (coldest) cyl. in flight with a non- turbulator equipped engine.
A friend sent me this series of pictures taken with an expensive thermal sensitive camera. The first row show (his) typical 250 engine instandart condition.
The second row is taken after installing the turbulator kit. Beginning from idle to full power.
A very typical situation.
For those who believe that it is not so bad with the mixture that is supplied to each cylinder.
The camera shows it very clearly what many of you already have experienced. .
04-12-2011, 07:30 PM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Well after having to look at my 150 for almost two years she took her first flight today. It is a pre 09 production motor which I purchased NIB from a fellow club member who got it from RC Showcase sometime in 07 or early 08.
The air frame is a heavily modified Meister Corsair. I added flaps to the build which also required moving the outer wing panel attachment point out two rib bays and replaced the slab constructed tail group with an airfoiled one from sheeted foam. Made a new canopy mold and pulled a canopy with the center windshield being flat which was introduced on the F4U-5 models. Also made molds off of the bottom of the wing and tail of the fuse so I could lay up fiber glass skins to cut gear doors from.
Just wanted to share that I had an uneventfull very relaxing maiden flight and the Moki run flawlessly. With all I had heard about the pre 09 150s, I had no ideal what to expect. Even with several years of large scale gas expierence I found myself to be pretty on edge about trusting the Moki with over a years worth of buiding time.
First off I wanted to eliminate any potential problems, so I ordered an electric pump from Gotz Vogelsang of Aeroscale. He was also very helpful and gave me much needed advice on lubricants for the Moki.
Next I ordered a FlightPower 8AVR, adjustable voltage regulator to keep the ignition happy. I adjusted it 5.4 volts based upon the advice of Frank Tiano.
One thing I did not like about the regulator was the warning to unplug the battery at the end of the flying session as it would drain the pack in a few hours. Some may not agree with this but to avoid this hassle I did the following. I did not use the F/S switch which comes with the unit. I did not even plug it in leaving that pigtail on the wiring harness unused. What I did do was just go ahead and place a switch between the battery and harness on the regulator deemed battery imput and it seems to be working just fine, From what I can tell after three days I have had no battery drain.
As instructed by Gotz, I gave the motor some run time on the ground. He suggestted about 20 minutes to seat the valve train. I actually gave her about ten minutes, broken into three sessions. I also used this time for taxi test to work out any bugs on the airframe. I never saw any over heating issues, my temps ranged from 130 on the coldest cylinder to about 195 on the hottest. (Not sure how accurate as it is just a cheap small unit from Tower) I did make sure to change the RPMs constantly to keep her cleaned out and change the heat settings.
Two props were used, both zoar 3 blades. A 24 X16 that turned 4950 (more than I wanted it to turn on the ground) and a 26 X 14 that turned 4700.
Nothing came loose or fell off and the exhaust ring nuts only needed about an 1/8 turn to firm up.
On the maiden, she hand started on the third flip and never missed a beat. I flew for about 10 minutes and she never changed settings in the air and idled back to the pits after landing
Now if it only stays this good for the next 50 flights.
See some of you in Lakeland in a couple of weeks.
Gary M
The air frame is a heavily modified Meister Corsair. I added flaps to the build which also required moving the outer wing panel attachment point out two rib bays and replaced the slab constructed tail group with an airfoiled one from sheeted foam. Made a new canopy mold and pulled a canopy with the center windshield being flat which was introduced on the F4U-5 models. Also made molds off of the bottom of the wing and tail of the fuse so I could lay up fiber glass skins to cut gear doors from.
Just wanted to share that I had an uneventfull very relaxing maiden flight and the Moki run flawlessly. With all I had heard about the pre 09 150s, I had no ideal what to expect. Even with several years of large scale gas expierence I found myself to be pretty on edge about trusting the Moki with over a years worth of buiding time.
First off I wanted to eliminate any potential problems, so I ordered an electric pump from Gotz Vogelsang of Aeroscale. He was also very helpful and gave me much needed advice on lubricants for the Moki.
Next I ordered a FlightPower 8AVR, adjustable voltage regulator to keep the ignition happy. I adjusted it 5.4 volts based upon the advice of Frank Tiano.
One thing I did not like about the regulator was the warning to unplug the battery at the end of the flying session as it would drain the pack in a few hours. Some may not agree with this but to avoid this hassle I did the following. I did not use the F/S switch which comes with the unit. I did not even plug it in leaving that pigtail on the wiring harness unused. What I did do was just go ahead and place a switch between the battery and harness on the regulator deemed battery imput and it seems to be working just fine, From what I can tell after three days I have had no battery drain.
As instructed by Gotz, I gave the motor some run time on the ground. He suggestted about 20 minutes to seat the valve train. I actually gave her about ten minutes, broken into three sessions. I also used this time for taxi test to work out any bugs on the airframe. I never saw any over heating issues, my temps ranged from 130 on the coldest cylinder to about 195 on the hottest. (Not sure how accurate as it is just a cheap small unit from Tower) I did make sure to change the RPMs constantly to keep her cleaned out and change the heat settings.
Two props were used, both zoar 3 blades. A 24 X16 that turned 4950 (more than I wanted it to turn on the ground) and a 26 X 14 that turned 4700.
Nothing came loose or fell off and the exhaust ring nuts only needed about an 1/8 turn to firm up.
On the maiden, she hand started on the third flip and never missed a beat. I flew for about 10 minutes and she never changed settings in the air and idled back to the pits after landing
Now if it only stays this good for the next 50 flights.
See some of you in Lakeland in a couple of weeks.
Gary M
04-13-2011, 03:26 AM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: GaryM
.......
One thing I did not like about the regulator was the warning to unplug the battery at the end of the flying session as it would drain the pack in a few hours. Some may not agree with this but to avoid this hassle I did the following. I did not use the F/S switch which comes with the unit. I did not even plug it in leaving that pigtail on the wiring harness unused. What I did do was just go ahead and place a switch between the battery and harness on the regulator deemed battery imput and it seems to be working just fine, From what I can tell after three days I have had no battery drain.
.......
Gary M
.......
One thing I did not like about the regulator was the warning to unplug the battery at the end of the flying session as it would drain the pack in a few hours. Some may not agree with this but to avoid this hassle I did the following. I did not use the F/S switch which comes with the unit. I did not even plug it in leaving that pigtail on the wiring harness unused. What I did do was just go ahead and place a switch between the battery and harness on the regulator deemed battery imput and it seems to be working just fine, From what I can tell after three days I have had no battery drain.
.......
Gary M
I also plan not to use the F/S and have a switch between the battery and the regulator. My question is, why do you think people would not agree with this implementation?
Just wondering if I am missing something because the F/S doesn't seem like it is needed with the addition of a ignition switch to cut power off to the regulator.
John
04-13-2011, 07:26 AM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: wxman2
Gary,
I also plan not to use the F/S and have a switch between the battery and the regulator. My question is, why do you think people would not agree with this implementation?
Just wondering if I am missing something because the F/S doesn't seem like it is needed with the addition of a ignition switch to cut power off to the regulator.
John
ORIGINAL: GaryM
.......
One thing I did not like about the regulator was the warning to unplug the battery at the end of the flying session as it would drain the pack in a few hours. Some may not agree with this but to avoid this hassle I did the following. I did not use the F/S switch which comes with the unit. I did not even plug it in leaving that pigtail on the wiring harness unused. What I did do was just go ahead and place a switch between the battery and harness on the regulator deemed battery imput and it seems to be working just fine, From what I can tell after three days I have had no battery drain.
.......
Gary M
.......
One thing I did not like about the regulator was the warning to unplug the battery at the end of the flying session as it would drain the pack in a few hours. Some may not agree with this but to avoid this hassle I did the following. I did not use the F/S switch which comes with the unit. I did not even plug it in leaving that pigtail on the wiring harness unused. What I did do was just go ahead and place a switch between the battery and harness on the regulator deemed battery imput and it seems to be working just fine, From what I can tell after three days I have had no battery drain.
.......
Gary M
I also plan not to use the F/S and have a switch between the battery and the regulator. My question is, why do you think people would not agree with this implementation?
Just wondering if I am missing something because the F/S doesn't seem like it is needed with the addition of a ignition switch to cut power off to the regulator.
John
That is an awesome little regulator very handy with the two leads for imput and two more for output
04-13-2011, 08:58 AM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Scott ;
Good to finally meet you at our " gathering of giants " meet down here in Cape Coral last month. Thank you for spending the time to get me started on the right foot regarding my Moki 150 powered Zero. On your recommendation I run 50:1 amsoil mix, I have been unable to locate a source for the " metalon C-2" as of yet . I ran the engine twice yesterday on the plane with the following results. With a Solo 24" 3-blade dialed in to 12" we get 4500/4600 rpm with a 900 rpm idle. That was un-cowled, The engine seemed to be quite happy at all rpm's and would accept idle to full throttle acceleration with no problem. With the cowl on ( no baffles ) engine cool, it started without problem but after a few minutes run it would not accept the acceleration and it quit and was hard to restart. The CHT was hotter but not excessive (180F - 220F ) The high end seemed fine . I thinking that with the engine cowled and running on the ground the induction air may be hotter effecting the performance . I will open up the rear cowl for more air flow and try that. At your invitation, I will bring the Zero up to you guys in Tampa to get her dialed in right! Scott thanks again for all your hospitality and help.
As always, questions- comments- or bad jokes are welcome!
Regards: Jim
Good to finally meet you at our " gathering of giants " meet down here in Cape Coral last month. Thank you for spending the time to get me started on the right foot regarding my Moki 150 powered Zero. On your recommendation I run 50:1 amsoil mix, I have been unable to locate a source for the " metalon C-2" as of yet . I ran the engine twice yesterday on the plane with the following results. With a Solo 24" 3-blade dialed in to 12" we get 4500/4600 rpm with a 900 rpm idle. That was un-cowled, The engine seemed to be quite happy at all rpm's and would accept idle to full throttle acceleration with no problem. With the cowl on ( no baffles ) engine cool, it started without problem but after a few minutes run it would not accept the acceleration and it quit and was hard to restart. The CHT was hotter but not excessive (180F - 220F ) The high end seemed fine . I thinking that with the engine cowled and running on the ground the induction air may be hotter effecting the performance . I will open up the rear cowl for more air flow and try that. At your invitation, I will bring the Zero up to you guys in Tampa to get her dialed in right! Scott thanks again for all your hospitality and help.
As always, questions- comments- or bad jokes are welcome!
Regards: Jim
04-13-2011, 12:11 PM
#1171
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Just ordered some C-2, thanks. Pictures of the Zero are on the RCU build thread Meister Scale 108/118"zero. Brief history/ A/C built with Fuji BT86 twin. Flew for one year, Had engine issues/ engine quit once too often /A/C virtually destroyed in Sarasota back in Nov,2010 / A/C rebuilt with Moki 150 which I should have used in the first place. Scott tried to talk me into the Moki when I was in the construction phase but couldn't do it at that time. I'll keep posting to this thread and give video when she flies. I need all the help I can get, so as always:
keep the questions, comments and bad jokes coming !
Regards;
Jim
keep the questions, comments and bad jokes coming !
Regards;
Jim
04-13-2011, 12:19 PM
#1172
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: mick15
You haven’t read the post properly, but if you require run-time the engine in the Yak54 has about 100 to 130 hours.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzyQJfkOKtY
m
You haven’t read the post properly, but if you require run-time the engine in the Yak54 has about 100 to 130 hours.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzyQJfkOKtY
m
04-13-2011, 12:24 PM
#1173
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Detlef,
Excellent data. This is first thermal image data posted. If anyone didn't think the exhaust ring is the major source of cowl heating, look again. Keeping in mind that the hot cylinders are running more lean. It is interesting to note the movement from one cylinder to another as the rpm changes. It would be helpful to know the engine speed for each of the images. It seems clear that the turbulator does improve the fuel distribution, especially at lower rpm. Your data reinforces my belief that its important to control the exhaust collector ring temperature.
Is it possible to post individual images with throttle settings or engine rpm?
Many thanks,
Excellent data. This is first thermal image data posted. If anyone didn't think the exhaust ring is the major source of cowl heating, look again. Keeping in mind that the hot cylinders are running more lean. It is interesting to note the movement from one cylinder to another as the rpm changes. It would be helpful to know the engine speed for each of the images. It seems clear that the turbulator does improve the fuel distribution, especially at lower rpm. Your data reinforces my belief that its important to control the exhaust collector ring temperature.
Is it possible to post individual images with throttle settings or engine rpm?
Many thanks,
04-13-2011, 06:00 PM
#1175
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: WARBIRDRCER
Gary,
Glad to hear your flight went off without a hitch. I spoke to Bill H. today and he told me of your flight. Now my next question is, are you bringing this one to Warbirds over Oklahoma following Top Gun?
Gary,
Glad to hear your flight went off without a hitch. I spoke to Bill H. today and he told me of your flight. Now my next question is, are you bringing this one to Warbirds over Oklahoma following Top Gun?