CMP 120 Zero ARF Build thread
#801

Zero 332, I used the air retracts because that is what I had. But if I ever purchase any more retracts, they will be electrics. I have a set of the old Lados on a VQ P-40 and they work fine. For a 90-120 size plane, which are the best, the ones from E-Flite or the new lados from Magnum RC?
#802

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ORIGINAL: ZERO-322
Hey bud sorry for the late response i was finally able to access your pm
i did look and the viking kit i have isn't complete however as i said i don't see having a use for it, your welcome to what's there, from what i can tell the side panels and instrument panel is missing that and the seat but the seat and yoke I've used on mine, forward me your address and ill send it out ''its on me''
Gorgeous tail wheel assembly mabey when i get to that point you'll be good enough to give me a how to?
Hey bud sorry for the late response i was finally able to access your pm
i did look and the viking kit i have isn't complete however as i said i don't see having a use for it, your welcome to what's there, from what i can tell the side panels and instrument panel is missing that and the seat but the seat and yoke I've used on mine, forward me your address and ill send it out ''its on me''
Gorgeous tail wheel assembly mabey when i get to that point you'll be good enough to give me a how to?
I was thinking about drawing up a simple plan for the tail wheel, most don't like my drawings because they can be crude I guess, but I'm an artist! I don't need perfect lines, that's evil to me! lol! Post some pictures of what you are doing so I can keep track, it might inspire me!
Luke
#803
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From: Elmwood Park ,
IL
Bean
i also have an older set of lado Im running on my zero never even so much as a negative hicup from them i just ordered the newer set from magnum so expect the same preformance, best thing to cone out since slice bread! Lol
i also have an older set of lado Im running on my zero never even so much as a negative hicup from them i just ordered the newer set from magnum so expect the same preformance, best thing to cone out since slice bread! Lol
#804
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From: Hurlock,
MD
that horn shaped valve is the exact same valve the use on a Mc 202 & 205's with the DB605 engine. its a boost blow-off valve.
its designed to bleed off pressure if the manifold builds to much pressure.
its designed to bleed off pressure if the manifold builds to much pressure.
dionysusbacchus - Wow, the tailwheel turned out fantastic...I'm a little too far along on mine to steal your design...but wish I had!
#805

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ORIGINAL: L16pilot
dionysusbacchus - Wow, the tailwheel turned out fantastic...I'm a little too far along on mine to steal your design...but wish I had!
dionysusbacchus - Wow, the tailwheel turned out fantastic...I'm a little too far along on mine to steal your design...but wish I had!
Thanks! Well it's no problem, use the design whenever you want, here is something for you to work with (some plans!)
I'm posting these for those that want to start a tail wheel of their own, it does not cover every single detail, but if you have some ingenuity it should be no problem. I will follow this with a complete build on the tail wheel for those that need more detailed instructions, I'll probably start this tomorrow. I have a few of these to build for friends, so it's not a problem, I'll just take pictures as I go this time.
Luke
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From: Hurlock,
MD
Luke - Any progress on pulling new canopies?...I'm at the point where I need to either use the kit original, make my own plug....or hopefully con you out of one.
My primary dsilike about the kit's canopy is the terrible clarity and they are brittle...if it's a polycarbonate, it's a cheap asia version.
My primary dsilike about the kit's canopy is the terrible clarity and they are brittle...if it's a polycarbonate, it's a cheap asia version.
#810
ORIGINAL: L16pilot
Luke - Any progress on pulling new canopies?...I'm at the point where I need to either use the kit original, make my own plug....or hopefully con you out of one.
My primary dsilike about the kit's canopy is the terrible clarity and they are brittle...if it's a polycarbonate, it's a cheap asia version.
Luke - Any progress on pulling new canopies?...I'm at the point where I need to either use the kit original, make my own plug....or hopefully con you out of one.
My primary dsilike about the kit's canopy is the terrible clarity and they are brittle...if it's a polycarbonate, it's a cheap asia version.
#811

My Feedback: (25)
ORIGINAL: L16pilot
Luke - Any progress on pulling new canopies?...I'm at the point where I need to either use the kit original, make my own plug....or hopefully con you out of one.
My primary dsilike about the kit's canopy is the terrible clarity and they are brittle...if it's a polycarbonate, it's a cheap asia version.
Luke - Any progress on pulling new canopies?...I'm at the point where I need to either use the kit original, make my own plug....or hopefully con you out of one.
My primary dsilike about the kit's canopy is the terrible clarity and they are brittle...if it's a polycarbonate, it's a cheap asia version.
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From: Hurlock,
MD
There is lots to not like about the original kit supplied canopy! I got side tracked by the tail wheel project, but I have been working on the plug for the scale canopy. If you can wait just a little bit more, like through this weekend then I should have them ready. I have to fill the plaster in order to pull clear canopies, so it's matter of the filler drying mainly. I'll keep you all posted on my progress. So yes, if you can wait you can get one from me.
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From: Elmwood Park ,
IL
Im using a cowl for a yellow zero however i have had to cut it up and re assemble it to get the correct diameter and shape, reason for the metal cowl flaps is that it allows me to hinge and get the clearances needed on the off chance that the exhaust should touch it would touch metal and not burn fiberglass cowl
#817
That is also good. It is better to open them then to cut underside of cowl for cooling
As my Zero is nearing completion, I have decided to paint inside of cowl(was white),
and I thought it would look nice if it is repainted.
Since I already have a green color that I used earlier to paint the interior,
I painted it.
Of course, the first step is protecting the outside

and then painting


and the result

And now the problems begun. When I was painting the wing I forgot the red lines on the top wing. S
o far I've used for all painting Kenda Kolor Spray Paint and was satisfied.
The color is dense and beautiful was sprayed, nice cover, does not leak ...
But let's go from the beginning. First, I stuck a narrow strip where the line will be around it and then stuck the protective tape.

When the yellow tape has been removed, I have to paint red colour.

Since I was lazy to go in town that day, I asked my buddy's wife to bring me from work
(she is working the paint shop) one bottle of red Kenda color spray. He later turn in, bring
spray but some Greek COSMOS. He says he did not have one I have ordered but that this one is better quality and of course
expensive. I believed him, of course (because he does wholesale colors in the same company) and as soon as first part of paint
was on wing, I know what awaits me. The color is just dripping with wings. it seemed a red water rather than ink.
But there was no return. Of course, I could paint this part f wing first in white just in case, but ...
I had to cross three times to cover the green below and while I have all the good protection
This "water color" was leaked under the tape.


Horror. Is not a problem as the color leaked, especially in this part, and a little scratching and a little
sanding will resolve the matter, also there has to be weathering too but gets on my nerves
simply that I was lazy and I did not went and bought what I think is good. If I has gone to store
I certainly would not buy the spray but would go in another store bought one that I know is good.
Well what is done is done. There is saying, that the best way to learn, is on your own mistakes.
As my Zero is nearing completion, I have decided to paint inside of cowl(was white),
and I thought it would look nice if it is repainted.
Since I already have a green color that I used earlier to paint the interior,
I painted it.
Of course, the first step is protecting the outside

and then painting


and the result

And now the problems begun. When I was painting the wing I forgot the red lines on the top wing. S
o far I've used for all painting Kenda Kolor Spray Paint and was satisfied.
The color is dense and beautiful was sprayed, nice cover, does not leak ...
But let's go from the beginning. First, I stuck a narrow strip where the line will be around it and then stuck the protective tape.

When the yellow tape has been removed, I have to paint red colour.

Since I was lazy to go in town that day, I asked my buddy's wife to bring me from work
(she is working the paint shop) one bottle of red Kenda color spray. He later turn in, bring
spray but some Greek COSMOS. He says he did not have one I have ordered but that this one is better quality and of course
expensive. I believed him, of course (because he does wholesale colors in the same company) and as soon as first part of paint
was on wing, I know what awaits me. The color is just dripping with wings. it seemed a red water rather than ink.
But there was no return. Of course, I could paint this part f wing first in white just in case, but ...
I had to cross three times to cover the green below and while I have all the good protection
This "water color" was leaked under the tape.


Horror. Is not a problem as the color leaked, especially in this part, and a little scratching and a little
sanding will resolve the matter, also there has to be weathering too but gets on my nerves
simply that I was lazy and I did not went and bought what I think is good. If I has gone to store
I certainly would not buy the spray but would go in another store bought one that I know is good.
Well what is done is done. There is saying, that the best way to learn, is on your own mistakes.
#819

My Feedback: (25)
ORIGINAL: L16pilot
Luke - I'm not in that big of a hurry....probably a couple-three weeks away...just name your price and/or number of limbs...
There is lots to not like about the original kit supplied canopy! I got side tracked by the tail wheel project, but I have been working on the plug for the scale canopy. If you can wait just a little bit more, like through this weekend then I should have them ready. I have to fill the plaster in order to pull clear canopies, so it's matter of the filler drying mainly. I'll keep you all posted on my progress. So yes, if you can wait you can get one from me.
No one asked if my tail wheel had a lock when extended, I can tell no one is paying attention to this, but maybe someone will use the info. Dave Platt had his Zero's tail sitting on the ground when the air pressure bled off, but not mine! I simply moved the locking mechanism under the cockpit. I was moving the elevator servo anyway because I'm trying to get as deep a cockpit as I can, so it worked out great for the scale retractable tail wheel.
The pictures are pretty self explanatory, and it works great, without air in the cylinder the tail wheel stays extended and I can move the plane around without it collapsing.
#820
Did not think that it would not get it up and down, but I am interested how you are planing to do steering. And of course watch up weight
Mine will probably be heavier than I thought.
.
Mine will probably be heavier than I thought.
.
#821

My Feedback: (25)
ORIGINAL: misha034
Did not think that it would not get it up and down, but I am interested how you are planing to do steering. And of course watch up weight
Mine will probably be heavier than I thought.
.
Did not think that it would not get it up and down, but I am interested how you are planing to do steering. And of course watch up weight
Mine will probably be heavier than I thought.
.
You put a lot of detail into your plane, I did not see your exact glassing method, but with a light weight method you can save much weight! I could definitely build a lighter fuselage, but I want to use this one so we shall see what the weight is. My tail wheel is just under 1oz in weight, not sure what the plastic robart one is or some of the other methods used in this thread, but it is as light as I can possibly make it.
#823

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ORIGINAL: Whistling Death
dionysusbacchus what thickness is the pc board?
dionysusbacchus what thickness is the pc board?
.062 Will you be building one? I have assembly instructions with pictures but I figured I'd wait until someone asks before I bother posting them. I added the lever also to the new plans, may post those later.
#824

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From: Orlando, FL
I for one would love to see your pictures and instructions for building the tailwheel!!!
I've got the 80" version working its way up the building list and am gathering all the info I can find before starting...
I've got the 80" version working its way up the building list and am gathering all the info I can find before starting...
#825
ORIGINAL: dionysusbacchus
.062 Will you be building one? I have assembly instructions with pictures but I figured I'd wait until someone asks before I bother posting them. I added the lever also to the new plans, may post those later.
ORIGINAL: Whistling Death
dionysusbacchus what thickness is the pc board?
dionysusbacchus what thickness is the pc board?
.062 Will you be building one? I have assembly instructions with pictures but I figured I'd wait until someone asks before I bother posting them. I added the lever also to the new plans, may post those later.



