Comp ARF Spitfire build
02-13-2012, 07:06 PM
#201
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RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
I got that prop size wrong - should have been APC 24x15
Patti
http://bundabergaeromodellers.weebly.com/
http://properlittlepeople.com/
Patti
http://bundabergaeromodellers.weebly.com/
http://properlittlepeople.com/
02-24-2012, 06:21 PM
#203
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RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
Hi Guys, After about 9months building my CARF Spitty is ready to paint.
After so much trouble trying to get a DA 85 to fit in the cowel I decided to scrap to scrap it and go to the DA 60 with a canister muffler to make sure I get under th 96db noise requirement for our club.
I wonder is anyone has advise on elev trim mixing with the flaps? Does it have a tendency to pitch up or down when flaps are lowered.
Thanks all and keep up the good work.
After so much trouble trying to get a DA 85 to fit in the cowel I decided to scrap to scrap it and go to the DA 60 with a canister muffler to make sure I get under th 96db noise requirement for our club.
I wonder is anyone has advise on elev trim mixing with the flaps? Does it have a tendency to pitch up or down when flaps are lowered.
Thanks all and keep up the good work.
02-24-2012, 08:54 PM
#205
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RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
Hello Sbeecham
I've been flying my electric Comp ARF Spitfire now for about 6 months and have found a very definite downward pitch when flaps are selected. With flaps I either have them full up and flying or full down, nose down and on finals.
Our field here in Bundaberg has miles of runway but depending on the wind direction there are boundary trees which I like to give a healthy margin of clearance. This means a typical landing of 1/2 throttle and gear down on the downwind leg ( gear down slows it up just right ), maintain height and speed across base and on turning final, back to about 1/3 to 1/4 throttle and full flap. The decent and nose down pitch are very controllable with elevator and I haven't bothered with mixing in up elevator trim although there is no reason not to. Just make sure you can see the top surface of the wing all the way down and it comes down like it is on rails. Recently I've been pushing these descents ever steeper simply for the fun of it - this plane just takes whatever you throw at her!
Ideally you are 2 to 3m high, 20 or so meters shy of the strips numbers and not too much speed because the flaps have done their job when you start to break the glide. Pull the throttle off, feed in the elevator and she'll settle right on down. If a 38lb Spitfire can float this one will if you hold her off with absolutely no tendency to drop a wing. Only thing is it can take a while to stop rolling! Shorter strips require a shallower approach as I found out in Hervey Bay last weekend.
Hope this helps
Richard
I've been flying my electric Comp ARF Spitfire now for about 6 months and have found a very definite downward pitch when flaps are selected. With flaps I either have them full up and flying or full down, nose down and on finals.
Our field here in Bundaberg has miles of runway but depending on the wind direction there are boundary trees which I like to give a healthy margin of clearance. This means a typical landing of 1/2 throttle and gear down on the downwind leg ( gear down slows it up just right ), maintain height and speed across base and on turning final, back to about 1/3 to 1/4 throttle and full flap. The decent and nose down pitch are very controllable with elevator and I haven't bothered with mixing in up elevator trim although there is no reason not to. Just make sure you can see the top surface of the wing all the way down and it comes down like it is on rails. Recently I've been pushing these descents ever steeper simply for the fun of it - this plane just takes whatever you throw at her!
Ideally you are 2 to 3m high, 20 or so meters shy of the strips numbers and not too much speed because the flaps have done their job when you start to break the glide. Pull the throttle off, feed in the elevator and she'll settle right on down. If a 38lb Spitfire can float this one will if you hold her off with absolutely no tendency to drop a wing. Only thing is it can take a while to stop rolling! Shorter strips require a shallower approach as I found out in Hervey Bay last weekend.
Hope this helps
Richard
02-25-2012, 05:04 AM
#206
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RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
ORIGINAL: P4Patti
Hi Everyone
12 months ago, I bought my husband Richard the CARF spitfire for Xmas. Long story short, a year later here are the results in photos, video to follow soon.
Summary – powered by a Hacker A-100 and Spin 170 ESC, turning an APC 22 x 10, driven by 48 x A123 batteries giving a 40V 9.2Ah system producing 3000 watts. AUW 38lb with an 8 minute flight and 15-20 minute recharge.
Basically the best flying plane Richard has ever flown in over 30 years and so much power it’s embarassing!
Pilot was a prototype from ProperLittlePeople.com ( http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95...18/key_/tm.htm ) the early version so a little worse for wear now with scratches! The home made spinner weighs in at 48grams.
It’s so light in the air despite it’s AUW that I have even looped and rolled it. Magic! It was never intended as a scale masterpiece but has more than proven the power train for future projects.
We can recommend it to anyone.
Happy flying
Patti
http://bundabergaeromodellers.weebly.com/index.html
Hi Everyone
12 months ago, I bought my husband Richard the CARF spitfire for Xmas. Long story short, a year later here are the results in photos, video to follow soon.
Summary – powered by a Hacker A-100 and Spin 170 ESC, turning an APC 22 x 10, driven by 48 x A123 batteries giving a 40V 9.2Ah system producing 3000 watts. AUW 38lb with an 8 minute flight and 15-20 minute recharge.
Basically the best flying plane Richard has ever flown in over 30 years and so much power it’s embarassing!
Pilot was a prototype from ProperLittlePeople.com ( http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95...18/key_/tm.htm ) the early version so a little worse for wear now with scratches! The home made spinner weighs in at 48grams.
It’s so light in the air despite it’s AUW that I have even looped and rolled it. Magic! It was never intended as a scale masterpiece but has more than proven the power train for future projects.
We can recommend it to anyone.
Happy flying
Patti
http://bundabergaeromodellers.weebly.com/index.html
Well done Patti and Richard, that is one beaut looking model/pilot combo.
Cheers,
Brad
02-26-2012, 04:02 PM
#207
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RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
Thanks Bundy.
That info is Just what I wanted to here. I prefer the model to sink on aproach rather than try to push it down.
Sorry I missed the Warbirds over Bundy, definatly be there next year
Thanks again
Steve
That info is Just what I wanted to here. I prefer the model to sink on aproach rather than try to push it down.
Sorry I missed the Warbirds over Bundy, definatly be there next year
Thanks again
Steve
02-26-2012, 05:09 PM
#208
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RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
Hi I have a DL85 with a keleo muffler, does any body have the same set upin there spitfire as I would like to know the dbs reading you get.
04-08-2012, 02:19 PM
#209
RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
Having followed threads on this forum to build my comp arf P51 and now Spitfire, here are some details and thoughts of my Spit and information hopefully of use to other builders and flyers of this great model.
The airplane weighs 33lb dry and is powered by Zenoah 62 with PCI ignition and Slimline pitts type exhaust with smoke. 22x10 Zoar prop but may fit larger prop as engines runs in (Zenoahs get better with use). Sierra retracts. Spinner from K&S Germany and cockpit interior from Aerocockpit/InZpan/propagteam
Decals from Tailormade in Germany. The scale dummy exhaust is cast resin and not as supplied from CARF.
The airplane weighs 33lb dry and is powered by Zenoah 62 with PCI ignition and Slimline pitts type exhaust with smoke. 22x10 Zoar prop but may fit larger prop as engines runs in (Zenoahs get better with use). Sierra retracts. Spinner from K&S Germany and cockpit interior from Aerocockpit/InZpan/propagteam
Decals from Tailormade in Germany. The scale dummy exhaust is cast resin and not as supplied from CARF.
04-08-2012, 02:25 PM
#210
RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
ENGINE CHOICE I decided on the zenoah 62 because they can make a nice scale sound, run smoothly and whilst not overpowered, hopefully less weight needed in the nose compared to the DA50 used in the prototype. Before I get a lot of mail, I have nothing against DAs etc and 3w and use these in my other planes, and I was worried that the ZG62 may not have enough power if the model ended up too heavy. More about flying it later. The engine uses the Zenoah extended optional prop shaft and is almost the right length and bolts directly onto the firewall with little modification. I also originally fitted the engine with an L carb bend so as not to require a hole for the carb intake in the cowl side but in the end I could not put up with the inconsistent idle, lag and pick up that make setting the engine up a pain when fitted with the bend (It causes fuel droplets to form on the inlet walls that can lead to these symptoms apparently) so reverted back to directly bolting on the carb after cutting down the plastic intake (as described in the engine guide from Toni Clarke) so that it isstill fullyenclosed in the cowl (its a close fit and does mean you cannot use the intake velocity trumpet. If you use the PCI ignition, then you will also need a cutout for the large spark plug cap but this is not likely to offend the scale police too much!
Engine cooling is critical. Do not be tempted to make the intake hole in the cowl front too small. It is about right as shown in the pictures in the CARF building guide. Also, think about the air outlet and I recommend a 3-4” cut out around the exhaust exits. Air can also exit around the exhaust stubs and the built-in duct. I made the inlet too small originally and paid the penalty of a couple of dead stick landings due to overheated engine. Once I enlarged the inlet hole area all was fine.
04-08-2012, 02:31 PM
#211
RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
BUILDING & PAINTING: Air tank and all retract plumbing/switches/fill valve are in one wing half air minimising connections to just two to build up model. You can hide a large access hatch under one of the wing radiators which can be removeable. The air tank is installed by cutting large hole on the centre chord rib on one wing half. Fuel dot fitted where fuel cap would be on full size.
Tailwheel is home made and uses direct connection to servo for steering independent of rudder/ Has worked well and allows for simple trimming and adjustable movement from the radio.
The cockpit kit used is actually ¼ scale which I think works better than the alternative 1/5 version which would look too small given the model is approx somewhere in between. You need to do a bit of trimming to get a good fit, the seat is also far too large and I reduced the width. The 1/6 Dragon BBI pilot had to undergo a diet of steroids andhamburgersbefore he looked acceptable (basically, keep the head and uniform/equipment and make a new larger body with hard foam and if necessary “let out” some of the seams on the clothes as he puts on weight and height!
I choose to paint model in acrylics (Tamiya) as used for plastic models.You can get the exact RAF colours andthe paint was airbrushed or used direct from spray cans. It covers well and thinly and looks very realistic with the silver CARF finish coming through on raised areas of detail. Also I think thepaint colour as supplied is tonedcorrectly for use on models giving a more realistic sclae appearance) . I was very pleased with the result. Final finish is Klass-Kote satin for fuel proofing. I used no primer . Be warned that acrylic does not adhere as well as other paints, so if you want a hard finish then use something else and make sure you prepare the surface as described in the CARF manual. I went for a fuel stained, weathered, paint worn look and for this look this type of paint is perfect and easily degraded to give the desired effect you see in the pictures and chips in a realistic manner!. I also used the weathering kits from the same people (Tamiya) that they do in various colours,like little make upkits, for weatheringplastic model tanksetc. They are particularly good for simulating rust and oil stains running down from fastners etc and other streaks fromdirt etc. In factmany of the the painting and weathering techniques used by fine scaleplastic model makers work well too with CARF warbirds, which are just giant "plastic" kits after all!
04-08-2012, 02:43 PM
#212
RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
FLYING – Whatever else you do, please donot be tempted to increase the elevator throws beyond that stated in the manual for your first flight because even with the CG correct, the model is sensitive to pitch and needs a light touch just like the real thing! Build it tail heavy and it will be hard to fly. My CG is as per recommendation, inverted needs and little down elevator as it should. I balanced the model upside down and gear up. The model flies great, responsive and light as others have found.You can get away with plenty of aileron movement (hence manual simply says “Set maximum” with no figures). Its a “floater” on landing, flaps not really needed if flying into a headwind.
If you suffer a failed engine then provided you have plenty of height, the model glides really well and does not drop a wing even when flying quite slowly but keep the nose down and remember that elevator can be sensitive and its easy to overdo it.
Mixin approx around1-2mm up elevator with full flaps depending on how yours flies,and it willset upfor a nice andstable sink rate but be ready to flare . You may find a little more elevator movement useful for landing only.
Needsvery little right rudder to track straight (on tarmac) which was nice and testament to good design. Let the tail come up on its own and climb gently after take-off unless you have bags of power.
Initial flights appeared to confirm that I may be short of power, but really I think I am used to having too much power (the old adage "you can never have too much power") on my other aeroplanes! The model takes off easily (no take off flaps needed) if a little slow on the climb out and was able to pull large loops and other basic aerobatics as long as it had momentum.Overall very scale looking speeds. I was considering changing the engine for a DA85 I have, or even a DA60 as the 85 can be hard to shoehorn in the cowl and needs a long prop extension. But I was not giving the engine a chance to bed in and the engine has got better with each flight (or maybe Iam less nervous of flying it!) just as itsaidit would in the engine manual and now I can easily pull large loops from the horizontal with about 3/4 throttle.The pitts silencer does not help as regards maximising power for this engine but itis easier to fit. I could perhaps have used a different silencer that works better with this engine but that may need more cutting of firewall or mounting behind the firwall, introducing more cooling and other issues.
ENJOY and thanks for reading.
04-08-2012, 02:51 PM
#213
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RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
Wow Ed! Gorgeous spit 
I flew my small savex spit (.60 size with1800watts of electric power) yesterday and was reminded how incredible this warbird is. I'm thinking of building a CARF for electric power... and seeing your message on the painting technique gets me excited about taking on this spit.
You've done a marvelous job. I think it's got to be the best weathered (realistic) looking spit in this thread.
Cheers!
I flew my small savex spit (.60 size with1800watts of electric power) yesterday and was reminded how incredible this warbird is. I'm thinking of building a CARF for electric power... and seeing your message on the painting technique gets me excited about taking on this spit.
You've done a marvelous job. I think it's got to be the best weathered (realistic) looking spit in this thread.
Cheers!
04-08-2012, 03:17 PM
#214
RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
Thank you hawleaboy, your comments much appreciated and glad to get you inspired to build one too. The Carf Spit would be ideal for electrics, as other have done with this arf and other large Spits, like Mick Reeves in the UK for his 1/4 scale kit.
Ed
Ed
04-11-2012, 04:39 PM
#218
RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
ORIGINAL: Edhamp
FLYING – Whatever you do not be tempted to increase the elevator throws beyond that stated in the manual because even with the CG correct, the model is sensitive to pitch and needs a light touch just like the real thing! Build it tail heavy and it will be hard to fly. My CG is as per recommendation, inverted needs and little down elevator as it should. I balanced the model upside down and gear up. The model flies great, responsive and light as others have found. You can get away with plenty of aileron movement (hence manual simply says “Set maximum†with no figures). Its a “floater†on landing, flaps not really needed if flying into a headwind.
If you suffer a failed engine then provided you have plenty of height, the model glides really well and does not drop a wing even when flying quite slowly but keep the nose down and remember that elevator can be sensitive and its easy to overdo it.
I needed approx 1/8 up elevator with full flaps, easily set up with a nice and stable sink rate but be ready to flare . You may find a little more elevator movement useful for landing only.
My model needed very little right rudder to track straight (on tarmac) which was nice and testament to good design. Let the tail come up on its own and climb gently after take-off unless you have bags of power.
Initial flights appeared to confirm that I may be short of power, but really I think I am used to having too much power (the old adage ''you can never have too much power'') on my other airplanes! The model takes off easily (no take off flaps needed) if a little slow on the climb out and was able to pull large loops and other basic aerobatics as long as it had momentum. Overall very scale looking speeds. I was considering changing the engine for a DA85 I have or even a DA60 as the 85 can be hard to shoehorn in the cowl and needs a long prop extension. But I was not giving the engine a chance to bed in and the engine has got better with each flight (or maybe I am less nervous of flying it!) just as it said it would in the engine manual and now I can easily pull large loops from the horizontal with about 3/4 throttle. The pitts silencer does not help as regards maximising power for this engine but it is easier to fit. I could perhaps have used a different silencer that works better with this engine but may needed more cutting of firewall.
ENJOY and thanks for reading.
04-12-2012, 02:51 AM
#219
RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
Yes WB-1, you are right that the G62 does power it well once it is properly run in, which with Zenoahs can take quite a few gallons of fuel to get them delivering peak power. Do not expect blisteringly fast perfomance or acceleration and power to spare that would be nice in say a show display model, but I have seen G62s pull 40lb models around with ease so it is well up to flying this model in a scale like manner .
04-12-2012, 12:45 PM
#220
RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
CARF Spitfire builders,
If you are interested I started a thread named the Spitfire Brotherhood here on RCU. I am assigning individual numbers to those who request one. In case you have not seen the thread, it allows Spitfire owners and pilots the opportunity to share information and ask questions concerning any make of Spitfire. If you would like a number, please visit us at the following link and make your request.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...21/key_/tm.htm
If you are interested I started a thread named the Spitfire Brotherhood here on RCU. I am assigning individual numbers to those who request one. In case you have not seen the thread, it allows Spitfire owners and pilots the opportunity to share information and ask questions concerning any make of Spitfire. If you would like a number, please visit us at the following link and make your request.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...21/key_/tm.htm
04-16-2012, 02:30 AM
#221
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RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
I'm looking into electric retracts. Does anyone have suggestions? This company seems to have a good rep and they look like they are well constructed.
http://www.electron-retracts.com/pro...cts/er-50.html
anyone have specs on the retract bays, or existing air units to see if they may fit?
http://www.electron-retracts.com/pro...cts/er-50.html
anyone have specs on the retract bays, or existing air units to see if they may fit?
04-16-2012, 02:54 AM
#222
RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
ORIGINAL: hawleaboy
I'm looking into electric retracts. Does anyone have suggestions? This company seems to have a good rep and they look like they are well constructed.
http://www.electron-retracts.com/pro...cts/er-50.html
anyone have specs on the retract bays, or existing air units to see if they may fit?
I'm looking into electric retracts. Does anyone have suggestions? This company seems to have a good rep and they look like they are well constructed.
http://www.electron-retracts.com/pro...cts/er-50.html
anyone have specs on the retract bays, or existing air units to see if they may fit?
04-16-2012, 02:56 AM
#223
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RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
I have electric retracts in my C-arf Spitfire, and they are working really well. I got mine from Lado in France, and they did a set that worked with the Sierra oleos and wheels..
Regards Al
Regards Al
04-16-2012, 03:08 AM
#224
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RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
Thanks Ali,
I did reach out to Lado, but have not heard back- I've seen some posts on problems with support and availability? was this your experience? I even sent several emails to Magnum RC ( USA dealer) and never heard back.
I did reach out to Lado, but have not heard back- I've seen some posts on problems with support and availability? was this your experience? I even sent several emails to Magnum RC ( USA dealer) and never heard back.
04-16-2012, 03:12 AM
#225
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RE: Comp ARF Spitfire build
Anytime
I have only dealt with the guys in France directly, and response has been good.. Not super quick, but good. Their support was great, as I needed a stronger motor to cope with the heavyweight wheels and they swapped mine out in a week or so. After having elec gear in a warbird like this.. it does make it a chore going back to air.
Regards Al
I have only dealt with the guys in France directly, and response has been good.. Not super quick, but good. Their support was great, as I needed a stronger motor to cope with the heavyweight wheels and they swapped mine out in a week or so. After having elec gear in a warbird like this.. it does make it a chore going back to air.
Regards Al