GaryBarry

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Hi all

I have just purchased the topflte spitfire- will be running it with an enya .60. I don't want to finish it with an iron on covering- I would really like to paint it. Does anyone have suggestions on a method of applying a finish that can take paint but that is light? (I am worried that a fibreglass finish will end up too heavy)
Thanks
Gareth

G-Pete

Fiberglass correctly applied, like with a lacquer or water based Deft has pretty much the same weight as conventional film. You need to use 0.5oz cloth...

Thin coats of water based paint will add not much weight.

F-16WpnsTech

I built an electric Ryan Rear Bear a while back and glassed it with 1/2oz fiberglass on the fuse and tail feathers and 3/4 oz cloth on the bottom. AUW came out to 15oz using Z-Poxy. The method I used was from J. Martin on rcgroups. If you thin down the z-poxy with denatured alcohol and take up the excess resin you should come out pretty light after priming and painting. We clocked the Bear at 95mph.

Doolittleraider

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http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_85..._1/key_/tm.htm

Edwin

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Maybe silk and dope. And I agree, a properly applied fiberglass finish can be as light as a mylar finish.
Edwin

GaryBarry

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Ok so with 1/2 ounce cloth and-if I am understanding you guys correctly- something like polyurethane as the adhesive? Would normal polyurethane varnish (the oil-based type is all I have access to!) be a good bet? Is there anything wrong (I am guessing weight) with using the normal resin/epoxy mix that guys use for autobody repair jobs? Thanks guys you have been very helpful. Also, I have never glassed anything before-do you think a beginner like me would be able to do a glass finish and keep the weight down? It seems like the 'trick' is using really light weight cloth
Thanks again
Gareth

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

all your questions answered here!!!!:

http://www.tompierce.net/190/index.htm

One of the best information sites your going to find. he is a real master craftsman!!!

Thanks

dave

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I would say it takes practice to keep the weight down. I use only one coat of reson on the glass squeegied in with a old credit card, then use a roll of toilet paper to roll on the reson to soak up excess. Another quick pass with the squeegy. To fill the weave, I thin light weight spackling with water from a home improvement store. Mixed to a runny suripy mix and rub it in with your fingers, make sure your get it in all the cloth weave. Sand it all down to the cloth and prime. Sand the prime down to the cloth and touch up where you have to. Careful, its easy to come out heavy if you get carried away with paint. I see a fair amount of .60 sized planes done up in glass at swapmeets, led sleds.
Edwin

GaryBarry

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I think I'm a little scared of the potential weight build-up, am probably going to try silkspan. Is it possible to hide the grain and paint over ordinary tissue/dope, such as the stuff that is used on a lot of rubber powered free flight models? What about litespan?
Thanks again
Gareth