pilotx

My Feedback: (2)

Bradly: I to wish you good luck on your test flights. Nothing new with my plane just waiting for some warm temps to paint with out the heat on in the shop. It will happen soon I hope, then probably two week of work and i hope to maiden in June if all goes well

here is a couple of pictures from the past weekend

RCGuy41

Chad & Tracey,

Thanks for the kind comments, I'm looking forward to my maiden and as usual I'll probably have butterflies for the first 5 minutes or until I'm satisfied my corsair is flying fine. What I realy want to do is mount firepowers pylons then sling those 500 Lbs bombs and drop them over the field, to bad I won't have a zero to practice my dive bombing on. By the way Tracey, your Corsair is still looking great, post some pics when the paint job is done! By the way any one watching Bob Moore build his F-105 Thunderchief, myself and two other guy's won the paint the Thunderchief contest, I got the hat with checkerboard flames.

Firepower R/C

My Feedback: (10)

RCGuy41- just make sure you have a spotter to watch the bombs until you get good at dropping them. Don't try to watch them yourself... I would hate to see you drive your bird into the ground! I have seen this happen before, and I have had a few scary moments myself. Have a little climb trim in there, just in case.

I can't wait to see some new pictures! Keep up the good work!

scubajohn

i saw but cant find now a post that recomended a reversed servo and a normal servo together to do the flaps what would you recomend also what is the favorite engine for this model ? i want lots of power but not so much it is harder to fly

RCGuy41

John,

Yes tower has reversed servo's for sale all you need is to specify your brand. Another option is to buy two standard servo's and a reversing Y-harness. Finaly purchase a match box and tie your flaps into it, as usual these are only recomendations, you need to decide what fits your budgit. As for an engine, the max I would put into any 60 size bird is a .91 2S or 1.2 4S except for a spitfire.

Richard,

I'll heed your advice and have some spot the bomb drop, I'll keep my eye's on the bird.

scubajohn

so the reversing y just swaps the polarity on the servo
and is a match box a servo sincronizer
i think the os 1.2 fs is nice would you recomend the pump/turbo/blower i see on some or are they overly complicated for performance gain
ours is comming together many thanks pics comming soon

RCGuy41

Here are the final pics of my sport, semi scale Corsair, I finished the rack system from Firerpower RC. Next weekend my club is having there annual community open house and I will maiden my Corsair then, I'm going to keep my fingers crossed and try to keep the nerves down.

scubajohn

hey rcguy thanks for your help but more importantly good luck on your maiden flight it looks very nice


john

scubajohn

hi and thanks for the help here are a few pics we got sieara gear ina week be glassing soon over dope primed balsa and going with a robart tail wheel after many years out of the hobby every body been a big help
john

Firepower R/C

My Feedback: (10)

Flight report???

I hope all is well!!

RCGuy41

O.K. Gents after getting this bird done last November and working out a few kinks; I flew my Corsair last Saturday. She flew like she was on rails, that OS 1.2 with a MAS 3 bladed 14.6 prop was making her scream. Chad if you are still reading this thread your tail feathers were awesome, had great control with no bad reactions in the rudder or elevator. A friend of mine did shoot some video of my corsair I'm waiting on him to post it onto youtube so I can post the link. I did run into some bad luck at the end of the flight, when I selected my gear switch down my engine quit on me, of no a dead stick, well I brought the bird around to a short final but over shot the turn; I was over the left side field looking at my bird from the right. and tried to goose her onto the field but she lost too much airspeed & altitude and went into the short grass landed on its gear and flipped 180.

I'm also happy to report my retracts system work flawlessly to include my gear doors, not a single door got ripped off, two thumbs up. From now on I'm going to lower my gear atleast one full cuircut before attempting to land. With my gear being sequenced, it takes a good 10 seconds from selecting gear down to the gear actually going down and locking down.

Damage report

1. Verticle stab snapped off at the base with no other damage, verticle stab is now repaired, just need to apply new fiberglass and repaint.
2. Right elevator was tweeked, the left and right were off set from each other, so I cut into the right elevator re-tweeked the rod and packed the elevator and rod with 30 min epoxy and let dry. Need to sand and touch up paint
3. Landing gear, right main twisted 90 degree's, have sent e-mail to Darrell at Sierra giant scale to find out the cost for a set of front plates with grooves for my retracts.

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I'm still checking in Bradley. Congrats on the test flight, sorry to hear of the damage. So far as I know your bird is the first to fly with my scale tail feather kit. I would love to have some photos of your bird to add to my collection and I will be looking for the video of your test flight.

Take care!

asafh1

hello
my name is asaf and i am from israel
just stared tobuild the kit and i have a question :

I have a question for users who built the kit in the past
I am currently on page 20 section 14
Should be a gap like you see in the picture ?

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10755885/anchors_10756219/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10756219]Please Follow my build log [/link]

RCGuy41

Hi asafh1,

As to your question, yes there is suppose to be a gap. The stab base support has to be flat on the building board then glue'd to F9 and F10 to include the side formers. To achieve you will need to trim F9 and F10 until you have each support flat. F10 will have a gap, that's for the elevator control linkage and push rod. The center stringers will be cut off flush with F10 later in the build, If you have any further questions please feel free to ask.

drube

I just ordered this kit from Tower and can't wait to start it. Looking to use an OS 91 surpass I havefor now thena DLE 20 in the future.Going to fully sheet the wingsand glass and paint.

drube

Do you guys think the 91 Surpass will be enough after glass and paint?

RCGuy41

drube,

Hi, great buy, the TFGE Corsair kit is a nice sport scale kit to build and fly. As for your choice of power plants the OS 91 FS surpass engine will provide plenty of power, just be carefull to build light. You are more than welcome to post your build progress to include any build pics, and if you have any questions please feel free to ask.

Brad

drube

Thanks Brad,
Good becauseI was worried that the 91 wouldn'thave enoughumphwith the extra weight of glass and paint. I'm worried about doing the flaps though,it looks complicated and never done flaps. I'm sure i'll have lots of questions and stillteetering on weather to go really scale on it, Never did that either..lol

Alan

dusel1

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Hello Bradley:

My name is Everett.

Been following your TFGE 60 Corsair build for several months now. I only today signed up with this forum. You have great talent and skills and I hope to plagiarize your build data.

I've owned my TFGE 60 Corsair since 1994. Been traveling too much to finish it, though.

However, now that I'm retired from aircraft technical writing, I started back on this model and also a Great Planes Cub 40 size in order to finish both of them.

I want to finish the Cub first in order to hone my flying skills.

I ordered Robart retracts, oleos, and an air kit shortly after purchasing the Corsair.

After following your thread, I got keenly interested in the double-sided circuit board tail wheel build. So I built one and am ready to lay it into the aft fuselage where I just tore out the standard TF fixed steerable tail wheel.

I understand how you attached the tail retract assembly into the fuselage to the former and how you added the air actuator.

However, even though I scouted your build many times, I cannot wrap my brain around how you integrated the rudder servo linkage that goes to the rudder with the pull-pull cable assembly for the tailwheel steering. I purchased a Sullivan #521 pull-pull kit to connect to the tailwheel steering arm.

Question: Do you have any other photos of the rudder linkage where it integrates with the pull-pull linkage? A picture or two will save a bunch of words.

Thanks,
Everett

RCGuy41

dusel1,

Hi, what I had done was to use a standard pull pull system with two push rod clevas and 4/40 extended brass coupling which had a small hole drilled into the brass to allow the cable through, then clamped with a small brass tube. I used some small flexable tube cut into small sections placing them into each former, since the flex tube was small enough for the cable to run through as a cable guide. The double sided control arm I used along with a futaba 3004 servo; I attached the pull pull systen to the second hole where the control cable for my rudder went into hole number 4. Here are some pics and ask as many questions you want

dusel1

OK.
Thanks for the clarification and photos.
Everett

drube

Whoo Hooreceived my kit today. If I don't have my retracts yet do I wait to install the LG rails? I didn't see any mentionofthe location of them.I'm hoping I can get most of thewing and fuse done before buying the LG due to the holidays.

Thanks

dusel1

Hello drube:

Congratulations on your kit. Looks as though you're wasting no time getting going.

I've been working on my TFGE Corsair 60 since 1994. See post 294 above as to why I haven't finished yet.

Short answer to LG rails. No.

Long answer: My experience with Robart retracts would have been better had I dry attached my rails to the Robart retract rail flanges first, then fitted them to the ribs as an assembly. Robart retracts easily bind if the geometry between the two companion rails is off.

I thought that I installed the rails first as close to the instructions as possible. After I epoxied the rails, I then installed my retracts. I had to play with the retracts quite a bit for them to swing without friction. I attribute the friction to LG rail mis-alignment.

I have seen a post that talks about the rails, but I cannot locate it at this time. I can get back to you when I find it.

Other members. please chime in with your experiences on this matter.

Thanks,
Everett

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Everett's long answer concerning the gear rails is spot on when dealing with the Robart 615 rotaters. They are very easy to warp out of alignment and any amount of warp will cause binding. I found out the hard way on my first Hellcat and ended up having to "float" the retracts on a thin layer of epoxy and micro balloons in order to get them flat on the rails without binding. On Hellcat #2 I bolted the retracts to the rails first and then glued the rails into the wing. Problem solved.

drube

Thanks Everett, That makes sense to use the retracts as a guide to mount the rails, I'll do that.