DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

I would love to know why some fly well and others not. I'll just forge ahead, keep it as light as possible, and post progress. Anybody else with experience with this bird please feel free to post results and particulars. Thanks for all input!
Sam

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

Maybe it's the monocote, could be that it is much lighter and holds the flair better; just a wild thought. Everyone I know who ever built this plane glassed it and put fabric on the fuse and rudder. Any thoughts?

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

After many attempts at first building an elevator half, matching it to the existing stab, and then getting the hinge point knuckles enough room, I finally have an acceptable elevator (my opinion). I was hoping for a savings in weight but I think once the sanding is finished it will be a wash. I like the simplicity of the BT elevator design and I think when covered it will be a bit more scale like. Now I just have to make three more!

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Got the second half built, still need to install the joiner and sand to shape. Getting the second tail ready now.

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

Looking good Sam!

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks Pete. The joiner I'm using is the called out 3/8 wire which is a real bear to get bent properly. I think I made two before I remembered to slide on the steering arm which I'll be using for the control horn! Between a cut in the stab trailing edge and a slot in the vertical fine trailing edge I think the steering arm base will be totally hidden and not compromise the integrity of the structure. I plan on finishing up the stabs this weekend, which should allow me to route the control linkages and then finish up the fuse stringers. I'm still debating where I'll put the batteries for the most forward position and still be able to access them without too much disassembly.
Sam

pimmnz

Just FWIW Sam, whatever detailing you do on the top of one of the tailplane halves, be sure to turn the model over and do it on the bottom of the other half. Hawker tailplanes (two per airplane) for the Hurricane were all built in the same jig, you simply take one and nail it on one side, then another, turn it over, and nail it on the other side. 'Course, it's a symmetric section...
Evan, WB #12.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

All four elevators done except for final shape sand and cover. First pic shows the two tails and the second pic is a closeup of the joiner and control arm. Thanks for the information Evan. I'll have to look at some of my pix and see.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Covering the stabs, cutting loose the trim tabs. Covered the trim tab in aluminum tape to simluate the metal skin. Three more to go!
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

First set of elevators is covered and attached temporarily. I've got about 1" of down and 1.5 - 2" of up travel. I could not resist setting the stab on the plane and hooking up the pushrod. Now for a bit of a rest and then I'll do the second one. The smaller trim tabs are made from styrene and superglued into a slot.

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

DaddySam, how come you didnt cut out some lightening holes in the elevator structure to save a bit of weight?
It sure looks strong enough to accept this.

Nice build by the way mate, I have always liked the idea of building (yes gluing stuff together) a nice sized Hurri.
I'm sure I will enjoy the rest of what you have to offer.

Cheers,

Brad

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Brad,
I figured that the weight savings by boring a hole or two between each rib would amount to no more than half an ounce total and I thought the weight savings would not merit the potential weakening of the structure. I am hoping that the other weight saving efforts I'm using will more than make up for that!
Sam

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Cool. You've got to do what you think is right for your own model otherwise you will always have that niggling feeling.

Keep up the good work.

Brad

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Stabs and Elevators done.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Today I spent some time fitting the vertical fin. To do this really right, I need to attach the stab permanently to the fuse, and I was not quite ready to do that yet. But I did make the slot for the elevator horn and the slot to allow the joiner to pivot. Both of these cuts left the post a little weak for my liking, and I'd hate to have my fin break off. I faced the rear of the post with a layer of 1/32 ply, which seems to do the trick. I need to install the pushrod from the rudder servo to the tiller bar, and install the tailwheel steering linkage. Once that is done I should be almost ready to finish stringering the fuse. Here are a few pix:

CRG

My Feedback: (3)

Nice to see the builds coming along. In case anybody is interested I researched the landing gear and figured out what's going on. The full scale retract mechanism is unique and would be a scratch-built type of project, though I have seen it on at least one model (1/4-scale). Without hinging the gear doors on the strut there are two other methods of getting the door aligned correctly with gear up and down; one is to rotate the strut ala Sierra, the other is a combination of mounting angles and strut angle within the trunnion. The latter angles are detailed on the BT plans. Just FYI.

Moggy

My Feedback: (9)

Nice work Sam. Are you starting to reload some amo for them LOL with the reloader in the background?

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Good eye Moggy! Nothing lights up a room like some blue Dillon stuff, eh? CRG, I've got the information on the pintle angles as well as BT's plans. I've got an idea I'll run by Lenny to see what he thinks. If it works, it would be great.
Sam

FireBee

My Feedback: (34)

DaddySam,

Great build thread as I discovered tonight. I'm hoping to pull my Vally off the wall and get down to business after seeing your work. Love the photos as it helps.


scalenutz,
are you by chance the mike in Florida who spoke to Mitch at Down and locked? Im using the Sierra gear and Glennis block tread wheels and they should arrive this wek after the electric conversion.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Hello Firebee, and welcome! The more the merrier. I think it's time to attach the stab to the airframe. That way I can do a better job of fitting the vertical fin post. I may have cut too much out while making room for the elevator joiner, and now that I've had a chance to look more closely at Roy's plans I see that he calls for a smaller 1/8" plywood plate to be inset to the post to the rear of the cut. The control horn base will still need it's slot, but better that than having the external horn as per the plan, I think.
First will be to find a secure method of mounting the fuse to some blocks so that the datum line, which follows the crutch, is level, and the fuse is level across the crutch. I'll double check with the wing saddle. Then I'll tape some sandpaper to the bottom of the stab and slide the stab back and forth to sand the saddle. Once the stab seat is close I'll attach the incidence meter and set the 1-1/2 degrees positive incidence.
I'll post some more pix as I get to this.

FireBee

My Feedback: (34)

This will be the paint scheme I will use.

I received the Warbird colors about 2 weeks ago and will try that brand for the first time.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Is that the Fighter Factory's Hurricane? If it is then my brother was in Portland Ore. during the time that it was being restored. He took some pictures during the restoration - unfortunately before the time of digital cameras. Great scheme. I plan on doing one Hurricane as R4118 and the other as either a desert hurricane, Russian Hurricane AM274, or the Hurricane based in New Zealand. I've got Warbirdcolors and Clark Industries "Warpaint". I may use one on one and one on another....

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Today I glued the stab to the frame. I set the fuse at zero incidence using bubble levels across the crutch and longitudinally on the crutch. Then I sanded the stab seat until both stab tips measured the same distance from the table top, indicating perfect horizontal Then I checked the tips were equal distance from the nose with a string from the center of the firewall. Then I set the incidence per the plans at 1.5 degrees.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

After gluing the stab I was able to get a better idea of the clearance for the elevator control arm. I ended up making a spacer out of 1/4" balsa that I glued on the end of the fuse, then I made a new vertical stab trailing edge and added the stiffener. I changed the shape of the trailing edge a bit, making it thinner so I will be able to use 1/16 balsa sheet to make the sheet metal leading edge and trailing edge pieces so they will blend and not create a "fatter" vertical fin. I then cut a groove for the control arm and made sure I had plenty of clearance for elevator movement.

FireBee

My Feedback: (34)

Yes this is the fighter factory Hurricane. This is its second paint scheme.
It's scheme is now based on a US pilot who flew in the BoB. I have details at work and will send soon.

http://www.fighterfactory.com/airwor...e-aircraft.php
Fighter factory is the mechanics and craftsman who maintain all the aircraft for a Mr. Jerry Yagen.
we have a few who also do RC in our club. (we are so fortunate)

They are relocation to his main museum in Virginia Beach. http://www.militaryaviationmuseum.org/

Airshow in May. come and visit.