ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
#827
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Auckland , , NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Irocbsa is correct about the ignition module. Get yourself an RcExel unit and start with a decent module straight away. I have a pair of these engines and both of the ign units failed within an hour of run time. With the exception of leaking mufflers - these engines have run flawlessly for 3 years. I fitted the Iridium plugs from the start and they still look like they are brand new. A word of advice - be careful about prop strikes. The cranks are pressed together and WILL TWIST out of alignment. If you do have a nose - over or hit the prop with something, check that the crank still turns freely in the bearings. It took me about 3 hours with a lathe and D.T.I to get my crank running true again.
The Kiwi Bandit.
The Kiwi Bandit.
#828
My Feedback: (14)
I flew my XYZ 53 for several hours last summer in another plane and didn't have any trouble with the ignition...yet. I did have a crankshaft problem. Even though I had never had a prop strike the crankshaft got out of alignment. I tried fixing it in my lathe with a dial indicator but could not get it back straight. I bought a replacement crank to get it back operational...but I'm concerned about how long the new crank will last. The engine really runs sweet, but it's worthless if the crank is too weak.
What about pinning the crank so it can't move?
What about pinning the crank so it can't move?
#832
My Feedback: (14)
I finished the model and checked the CG. It's 165mm back from the LE at the fuselage. This is just forward of what is shown on the plans. I also did a geometric check and this is 27% at the MAC. The plane weighs 17.5 lbs so far.
Last edited by radfordc; 01-25-2015 at 12:12 PM.
#834
My Feedback: (14)
Ding, Ding...We have a winner!
Although I think that a CG of 165mm would work, for the first flight I added a pound of lead to the nose for "momma and the kids". I also reduced the elevator throw from the specified 30mm down to a little over 20mm.
I made the first takeoff with a slight crosswind...about 6 mph at 30 degrees to the runway. The plane lifted off quickly but the left wing did drop for just a second before I recovered and got flying straight. It was quickly apparent that I had two issues...nose heavy and not enough elevator throw. Neither of these was a serious problem but did point to some things to fix. The flight was a nice one with the plane showing lots of speed and fantastic climbing ability. The plane did want to climb when the speed was up even with full down elevator trim. I'm glad I added a couple of degrees of down thrust and right thrust to the engine. It could even use a little more down thrust. I did some slow flight and stalls with the flaps both up and down. The plane slows down to a "walk" but when she stalls the wing drops "right now". You definitely don't want to stall this one close to the ground. After five minutes or so I dropped the gear and set up for a landing with half flaps. The landing was nice and smooth with the tail high and running on the main gear. I did have a problem when the tail came down...the tail wheel retract mount broke. I also noticed that the stock fuel tank was pretty low on gas after the flight.
I took the plane home and fixed the tail gear mount, removed a half pound of lead from the nose, and increased the elevator throw up to the book recommended 30mm each way. I also adjusted the pull/pull cables to give the elevator more down trim. While I was at it I put in a 24 oz tank so that I could fly longer flights without worrying about a flame out.
Back to the field for the second flight. This time I was paying attention to the wings on takeoff and kept them level. The plane takes off very quickly when you advance the power...as you might expect from an 18 lb plane with a 53cc engine turning a 20-10 prop. With less nose weight the plane was flying much nicer. I trimmed the plane so that it was flying straight and level at full speed and ran it through all the basic maneuvers. Rolls are quick and very axial... like the plane is on a string. Loops are as big as you want but you can still pull up quickly without anything bad happening. I did stalls and spins both left and right. The plane won't inadvertently spin...you have to really force it. Recovery is just a matter of centering the sticks and adding power to fly out of the dive. The plane will snap roll but again you have to make it do it. The plane really "presents" nicely in the air. It definitely has the look of a fighter. However, if you fly it on a day like today...cloudless, blue sky...you can quickly understand why they painted them like they did. The plane almost becomes invisible when you get it a ways out. This time I did the landing with full flaps. With the gear and flaps down the plane has a strong nose down tendency. With moderate power and a touch of back stick pressure you can control the approach angle and speed nicely. This landing was truly a "squeaker"....one of the smoothest, tail high, wheel landings I've ever done. This plane has no tendency what so ever to nose over while landings or taxiing.
Although I think that a CG of 165mm would work, for the first flight I added a pound of lead to the nose for "momma and the kids". I also reduced the elevator throw from the specified 30mm down to a little over 20mm.
I made the first takeoff with a slight crosswind...about 6 mph at 30 degrees to the runway. The plane lifted off quickly but the left wing did drop for just a second before I recovered and got flying straight. It was quickly apparent that I had two issues...nose heavy and not enough elevator throw. Neither of these was a serious problem but did point to some things to fix. The flight was a nice one with the plane showing lots of speed and fantastic climbing ability. The plane did want to climb when the speed was up even with full down elevator trim. I'm glad I added a couple of degrees of down thrust and right thrust to the engine. It could even use a little more down thrust. I did some slow flight and stalls with the flaps both up and down. The plane slows down to a "walk" but when she stalls the wing drops "right now". You definitely don't want to stall this one close to the ground. After five minutes or so I dropped the gear and set up for a landing with half flaps. The landing was nice and smooth with the tail high and running on the main gear. I did have a problem when the tail came down...the tail wheel retract mount broke. I also noticed that the stock fuel tank was pretty low on gas after the flight.
I took the plane home and fixed the tail gear mount, removed a half pound of lead from the nose, and increased the elevator throw up to the book recommended 30mm each way. I also adjusted the pull/pull cables to give the elevator more down trim. While I was at it I put in a 24 oz tank so that I could fly longer flights without worrying about a flame out.
Back to the field for the second flight. This time I was paying attention to the wings on takeoff and kept them level. The plane takes off very quickly when you advance the power...as you might expect from an 18 lb plane with a 53cc engine turning a 20-10 prop. With less nose weight the plane was flying much nicer. I trimmed the plane so that it was flying straight and level at full speed and ran it through all the basic maneuvers. Rolls are quick and very axial... like the plane is on a string. Loops are as big as you want but you can still pull up quickly without anything bad happening. I did stalls and spins both left and right. The plane won't inadvertently spin...you have to really force it. Recovery is just a matter of centering the sticks and adding power to fly out of the dive. The plane will snap roll but again you have to make it do it. The plane really "presents" nicely in the air. It definitely has the look of a fighter. However, if you fly it on a day like today...cloudless, blue sky...you can quickly understand why they painted them like they did. The plane almost becomes invisible when you get it a ways out. This time I did the landing with full flaps. With the gear and flaps down the plane has a strong nose down tendency. With moderate power and a touch of back stick pressure you can control the approach angle and speed nicely. This landing was truly a "squeaker"....one of the smoothest, tail high, wheel landings I've ever done. This plane has no tendency what so ever to nose over while landings or taxiing.
#836
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Auckland , , NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey dude!! Well done on a successful first couple of flights. This will become your new favourite very quickly. Mine has over 100 flights now and I still enjoy giving it a thrashing.
#837
My Feedback: (26)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: monterey,
TN
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
radfordc, Now since you have had a great maiden and I am real happy for you. I had one and some one offered me a deal I couldn't refuse. I never got to maiden mine. It now is in a hobby shop somewhere over in Nashville, Tn.
Now next get you a #2 pencil, Make some templates for rivets, Crush up the #2 pencil lead and do some weathering on your bird and you will like it even more.I just spread the pencil lead with my finger and blended it in. I drew the
rivets with a piece of balsa with holes spaced in the balsa with a sharp #2 pencil. Happy Flying, Steve Mullis
Now next get you a #2 pencil, Make some templates for rivets, Crush up the #2 pencil lead and do some weathering on your bird and you will like it even more.I just spread the pencil lead with my finger and blended it in. I drew the
rivets with a piece of balsa with holes spaced in the balsa with a sharp #2 pencil. Happy Flying, Steve Mullis
#841
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mouny Airy,
NC
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello any information on setting up the Hobby King tail retract would be most appreciated, pictures would be really great. I will be starting my build soon and I have no idea how to set up the tail gear. Thanks Ed
#842
My Feedback: (14)
Here is how I did it. I screwed the retract to a block of wood and glued the block to the fuselage former. After only one flight the block broke loose. I re-glued it but also drilled a couple of holes all the way through the block and the former and pinned them with carbon rods. Later the former came loose from the fuselage due to the weak glue used in the kit. I re-glued it with epoxy and will see if it holds.
#843
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mouny Airy,
NC
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is definitely the way I will go, but using Hysol it works great on the jets and it should do the job on the LA-7. How did you set up your gear door. The way mine came is one piece that I will have to split in half (longways), Robart door hinges,
but no idea how to open or close them yet. Thanks for the quick reply.
but no idea how to open or close them yet. Thanks for the quick reply.
#846
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Litchfield Park,
AZ
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looking for ESM LA-7 Canopy
I did something rather dumb today that resulted in considerable damage to my LA-7 that I back dated to a LA-5, the end result being I cracked up the Canopy along with a bunch of the rest of the plane. I can fix the rest but I need a Canopy! If anyone knows where I can get one, I would appreciate it, I checked
EBay
VQ Warbirds
Arf Pros
Troy Built Models
and some internet searches and came up empty. If anyone has an LA-7 Canopy that is looking for home I would greatly appreciate it. If you know of someone making canopy's for ESM La-7's I would appreciate their contact information.
Thanks
EBay
VQ Warbirds
Arf Pros
Troy Built Models
and some internet searches and came up empty. If anyone has an LA-7 Canopy that is looking for home I would greatly appreciate it. If you know of someone making canopy's for ESM La-7's I would appreciate their contact information.
Thanks
#850
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Litchfield Park,
AZ
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Slightly different technique but result was the same, replace the grass, with pavement and Phoenix desert and the pictures would be hard to tell apart. After my first post repair refit repaint flight, all looked good so I put in fresh batteries and started the takeoff run. I always start with up elevator get some speed, bring up the tail, go down runway and takeoff. This time I brought the tail up and for some reason I opted to leave the tail lower than level, speed was coming up, looking good, the HUH!!!! WT (#). Totally my fault, was too busy being dumb to notice the tail low high aoa on that huge wing and splat!!! My fuse flexed so much, the canopy cracked at the front! The back is fine. I was really mad at myself, this was a complete dumb thumb on my part.