RCU Forums

RCU Forums (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/)
-   RC Warbirds and Warplanes (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-warbirds-warplanes-200/)
-   -   CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-warbirds-warplanes-200/7818487-cmp-bf109f-building-thread.html)

rchorn 12-27-2008 11:44 AM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
LDM, what kit or arf is your FW190 ? That's been one of my favorites for a long time too . Since I'm on the downhill side of finishing the 109 I might think of the next one ! ( I need another one like a hole in the head !):)

SCALECRAFT 12-27-2008 04:41 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
Lou

Thanks, but I'm not a master builder, just a hobby guy that is inspired by my friends (like HVACMAN) that can make almost anything a piece of engineering art. And trying to keep up.

Steve

HW50 12-28-2008 12:04 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
I finally got the wing finished with all servos and the retracts installed. Eight servos in all produce a lot of wiring. The retracts are mechanical ones bought from AK-Models. We have a nice flying field with short grass on it, quite kind to the landing gear. I have put a bit of effort in reinforcing the mounting rails and made a set of sturdy servo mounts. New wheel wells were produced from a large plastic bottle. The legs are 5mm dia and seem strong to me.

The arrangement is not much scale though, but will be ok for my first warbird. I may put more scale detail into the next one.

I am preparing to glue into place the fibreglass cover under the wing joint. Did you guys remove the wing covering before gluing?

I think I will increase the dimensions of the wing bolts, and may go for ¼” nylon ones.

SCALECRAFT: I want to turn an aluminium spinner backplate. Did you treat the center of the backplate in any way to get a good grip from the prop driver through the backplate to the propeller ?

Thanks,
Helge.

mike early 12-28-2008 02:23 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 


ORIGINAL: HW50

I finally got the wing finished with all servos and the retracts installed. Eight servos in all produce a lot of wiring. The retracts are mechanical ones bought from AK-Models. We have a nice flying field with short grass on it, quite kind to the landing gear. I have put a bit of effort in reinforcing the mounting rails and made a set of sturdy servo mounts. New wheel wells were produced from a large plastic bottle. The legs are 5mm dia and seem strong to me.

The arrangement is not much scale though, but will be ok for my first warbird. I may put more scale detail into the next one.

I am preparing to glue into place the fibreglass cover under the wing joint. Did you guys remove the wing covering before gluing?

I think I will increase the dimensions of the wing bolts, and may go for ¼” nylon ones.

SCALECRAFT: I want to turn an aluminium spinner backplate. Did you treat the center of the backplate in any way to get a good grip from the prop driver through the backplate to the propeller ?

Thanks,
Helge.


Show us a lot of photos, man!

HW50 12-28-2008 04:33 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hopefully these photos will show how my retracts work. I epoxied a 2.5mm thick layer of hardwood on the two exposed sides of each mounting rail. The retract mechanism is narrower than the distance between the rails, so there is enough room for this. At the outer end of each rail I epoxied a patch of ply to cover the area around the end, hopefully to reduce the possibility for the ply wing rib to split under load.

At the bottom (that is the top of the wing) I have epoxied in a large piece of 1.5mm ply, all the way between two ribs. To support the servos I glued in two long 8mm x 16mm pieces of birch to the ply plate.

The opening in the wheel well had to be extended a little to get the servos into place.

Helge.

SCALECRAFT 12-28-2008 09:44 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
HW

In my power: OS 108 15x8 2 blade I had no slip or problems.

My backplate has no special cuts. I just made sure my nut was tight.

But remember to inspect your spinner before each flight. Its a brittle plastic. I'm not expecting long service life from it.

steve

mike early 12-28-2008 09:55 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
Looking good HW50

LDM 12-29-2008 01:37 AM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
rc-horn my Fw190 is a wierd copy of the now discontinued Fw190 from CMP . ITs wierd because its a copy that is actually better then the CMP version .
It had a ring ply cowl mount so the screws could be incerted from the inside to hold the cowl , split flaps (while not correct it was easier to fix then starting from scratch .
Wood wing ve foam core . I will be starting a thread this week with pics on all the mods and progress .
So far built all the wing servos ahead of the main spar ahead of the CG turned on there side , this allows internal control of the flaps (semi scale) and external top control of the airleron (semi scale) -sierra retracts were added with major wing mods and gear doors are in the process of being made . I modified williams brother wheels with a bunch small scale details and fixes , added an IMP scale interior kit with 70 % being scratch built including the gun sight .
The canopy will slide and I reduced teh weight of my 7.5 oz Dragon brand german pilot to 2.5oz by replaceing the body with blue foam .
The most difficulty part so far was building the entire Sierra tail wheel outside the plane (including the mounts ) cables , airlines ect , then getting it into the plane lol .
I did figure it out and do have an easy method step by step if someone has a need to know .
It will be powered by my first gas engine a G26ei , I have always flown 4 strokes in warbirds from 91 thru saito 180 and recently a OS 200 was secured for my KMP corsair .
While people rave about gas , I am concerned over all the worries about how far the servos /received has to be from the engine and also having two batteries in one plane that need to be charged [:-]
As you know loveing all the servos , batteries , ect as close as possible to the front is kep in keeping weight down on an Fw190

snappa 12-29-2008 03:41 AM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
I have pulled out my rudder setup as I am not happy with it, I am considering changing it to pull/pull? with that nice double servo horn at the back

snappa 12-29-2008 03:43 AM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
anyone else not like the factory setup for rudder and elevator?

JS615 12-29-2008 02:08 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
I dont like the way the tail wheel hooks up to the rudder,,, the ball link pops off with little pressure,, pure garbage, for such a nice plane, CMP could of done better then that.
Any ideas for modifying the tail wheel hook up????????????

LDM 12-29-2008 05:15 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
Dubro has some really nice tail wheels that can be made to work and actually would look more scale , check out there online catalog

snappa 12-29-2008 06:15 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
Tail wheel, easy just place in the vice and file the ball into a disk, then drill a hole through the centre and use a normal link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE109&P=7 WARNING make sure you check before filing as there is no going back.... dont file it 90 deg out!

snappa 12-29-2008 06:26 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
Actually this pull pull setup has me thinking,I just thought of an idea for the elevator, Pic to come in 10

snappa 12-29-2008 06:50 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
1 Attachment(s)
I have done a very quick excell drawing and will upload it, feel free to modify it and repost your ideas... lets brainstorm Actually I cant as this site does not support zip or xl files!.... where there is a will.... screen capture with paint shop pro

rchorn 12-29-2008 07:24 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
LDM Sounds like it's going to be a nice one ! I had built a Roy Vallincourt FW190a a few years back, it had a lot of bells & whistles too, Flaps, retracts for the mains and the tailwheel . I let our clubs best flyer at the time fly it for it's maiden and it was good I did , he had to hold down elevator after putting all the down trim in it to get it to land. It got straightened out after that but I was too afraid to fly it for fear of cracking it up so I sold it . [&o]

I understand your feelings about the G26EI, I have an Evolution 26 and had problems from the start with batteries ( not high enough voltage ) then the Module went bad and they repaced that free of charge but it still gave me a bad taste in the mouth . I would stick with a gas engine with magneto if I had the choice again . I'm sure other guys will say they never had a problem and maybe it 's just me ( duh ! ):) but !! The big FW from Vallincourt had a G62 with the spring starter, worked good .

rchorn 12-29-2008 07:28 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
Snappa, that's a great idea about the tailwheel ball link, mine seems to be working right now but I'm going to keep that one in the back of my head . Hopefully not too far back !:D

JS615 12-29-2008 07:42 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
Snappa, thanks for the tail wheel idea,, i will give it a try.

SCALECRAFT 12-29-2008 07:47 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
snappa

On page 14, post 341 and 342 I have an example of what I did for my elevator. Rudder pull pull on next really nice one.

steve

SCALECRAFT 12-29-2008 08:01 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
Oh almost forgot.

My spinner has developed a crack at the lip that hold the spinner into the back plate starting at the prop slot for about 3/8" . Also the holes in the spinner for the screws I have, were drilled bigger to allow the 8x32 easy fit. The holes have cracked. If making an alum backplate try to avoid enlarging the spinner holes.

I think it was due to the nose over shown on the vid. I'm surprised the minor nose over caused the damage. I have nosed over many model with plastic and composite spinners in the years and have not really had this kind of damage.

Again, rev up in an area clear of people and yourself in case it flies apart.

Steve

kahloq 12-29-2008 09:18 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 


ORIGINAL: JS615

I dont like the way the tail wheel hooks up to the rudder,,, the ball link pops off with little pressure,, pure garbage, for such a nice plane, CMP could of done better then that.
Any ideas for modifying the tail wheel hook up????????????
I switched out the balllink part that CMP provided with one from a H9 1.50 P-51 retract assembly. Its now connected to the stock tail wheel ball thing and it works just fine.
I have a 2nd plane in the box and if/when I build it, I have a completely new tail wheel setup from Hobbycity I'll use.

kahloq 12-29-2008 09:21 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
1 Attachment(s)
Maiden flight today!!!!!!

Man I was nervous, but also strangly calm at the same time. I know, an oximorin. Anyway. The plane originally had a tendency to want to vear left on inital throttle up(like up to 1/4 throttle), but that past that, it wanted to veer to the right. The first taxi test resulted in a "controlled" ground loop. I aborted the rollout, but the wing tip never scraped.

I wasnt actually planning on flying the plane since, well, I had forgotten the wing bolts(I used larger hangar 9 hex bolts and blind nuts) and I also frackin forgot the chin piece. So, after a flying buddy found some same thread nylon bolts, I was able to get the wing on and figured I could do some taxi tests, but thats all I had really planned on.

Anyways, on the 2nd roll out test, the plane stayed a lot straighter and the tail lifted. She started to get light on the wheels and I had two choices.....punch full throttle or cut the throttle and attempt to keep it from veering off the runway as it was headed to the left side edge some.
Quick decision and I pushed full throttle.
I tried to keep the climb out somewhat flat and she did want to bank left a little. I kept a wide turn more or less flat wing attitude for this and the next few bank turns because i didnt know how she'd respond. It only took about 5 clicks of right aileron to trim it out and no elevator once I had it high enough and comfortable messing with trims.

I did not retract the gear for this flight. I was still too concerned with how she would fly seeing as she weighs over 17 pounds. Id have to say, that the plane did not exhibit any bad behavior and actually felt really solid in the air. I only have 40% set for low rates on the ailerons and it doesnt need anymore then that. It felt just right.
I did about 7 circuits of the field, most of them at full throttle as I wasnt sure how slow I could fly it yet. On the 8th pass, I dropped the flaps to half and the plane did want to climb some, but not severely. I tried a landing approach with half flaps and the plane simply wasnt slowing down enough so I kept about 25 feet up and went around. This 9th pass, I dropped full flaps on base to final leg and lowered the throttle. She still was coming in pretty fast so I went around again. This time, i was a lot lower on the throttle. There was no torque issue when pushing full throttle again for the go around. Id say i was at 1/4 throttle when I push full again.
On the next landing approach, I cut the throttle about 10 feet up off the runway and she still kept speed for a good while and simply held steady about 3 feet up for another 200-300 feet. She did then gently settle on the mains and was very controllable. There was no bounce, nothing....just a nice roll out. The only thing that happened now was that the rubber wheel came of the plastic rim of the Williams Brothers 3 3/4" vintage tires on the left side of the plane. It did not cause any problems with controlling the plane and it simply slowed down fine skidding on the rim a little.
I could have easily slowed the plane down even more, but for its first landing, I didnt want toget too slow.

So....starting voltage was 20.60 per 5s 4900mah battery or 41.20 for the total series for 10s. After the flight, the batteries read 18.75 each. The flight was about 5 mins or so. I did not have the timer with me and remember that most of the flight was full bore on the throttle.
I am very pleased with the performance. She seemed pretty fast, but not super rocket like. I am sure if I changed the prop from the current 18x12 to a 16x14, Id get a massive increase in speed, but I dont think its needed.

The plane is nose heavy somewhat, but even with the stock retract locations and the Sierra Giant gear made specifically for this CMP ME-109 used, there was no tendency for the plane to even want to nose over any.

So to re-cap:
Turnigy SK 6364-230kv with 18x12 APC e using a turnigy 100 amp 2-12s esc
2x 5s 4900 in series for 10s 4900
Retracts: Sierra Giant CMP with 3 3/4" williams bros. wheels/tires
CG was at 108mm with chin scoop. Without, probably 110mm

snappa 12-29-2008 10:35 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
well done! Now did you have the control rods installed or did you do something else?

kahloq 12-29-2008 10:37 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 


ORIGINAL: snappa

well done! Now did you have the control rods installed or did you do something else?
If your asking if I used the stock control rods for rudder and elevator, the answer is kinda, but not really. I did use the black fiberglass rod things, but, only as a control rod guide tube. I used 4-40 dubro control rods from servo horn to control horn. The tubes were simply glued in place and the 4-40 run inside it.

snappa 12-29-2008 10:39 PM

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
 
1 Attachment(s)
Ok thats a good idea how did you do your elevator? being 5pm over here I just went down the garage and took a photo of my tail wheel, will upload it to this post soon also the position of my throttle servo


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:15 PM.


Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.