carfanatic222

As for the chassis on the truck what seems to be the major concern?
The .18 engine ,besides the rope problem should give the truck one heck of a thrust.

Xeller8

Yeah they run pretty good once you get em broke in and tuned right..

The biggest problem with them has been the axle hubs and the clutch springs...

The hubs are an OBVIOUS weak link...but I don't understand this clutch spring problem...I haven't had a bit of trouble with MINE yet...

I really don't get the pullstart prob either....again..I have had no probs...neither have a few others I have talked with about it..."Chubbysdad" for example...he said he's never had a problem with them either....I think people are rippin on them like they were lawnmowers or chainsaws or something....

But all in all..these are good trucks for the money.

carfanatic222

Yea, when you flood one and it gets a little hard to pull they must not know to pull out the plug to clear out the engine and whalla the spring just gets crushed from all the tension.
I know that I'm gonna break something and that it's probably gonna be a little while before I get the parts.I read back on this somewhere in here that someone had found a alternative traxxas part. that would maybe be a better part. Clutches and bells aren't that hard to find.
I just hope I get this thing broken in before I break it so while I'm waiting on parts I can go in the motor and see what I can tinker with to get a little more out of it .

Xeller8

Yeah..I'm thinking of trying to open up the ports a little more and maybe even adding a couple and see what it does..I just need to be prepared to buy a new motor if I mess it up..LOL..just haven't had the time or guts to mess with it yet as I've been busy tweaking and pimping out my buggy.[8D]

carfanatic222

I do not know how well fiberglass will bond to plastic but it would be a very workable medium.
If it is built up around the hubs and the control arms just right it just might make this area a little more tougher to break,and if it doesn't destroy the plastic it could lend it a little flexability.But nothing short of a good nylon reinforced replacement is gonna remedy that hub problem.Unless it is made out of aluminum.

Xeller8

That 3M Automix #8231 I mentioned above is really doing the trick for ME...it is strong...has awesome adhesion properties yet it's still flexible....fibeglass resin is too rigid.

carfanatic222

Hey Xeller8,is this stuff found at any auto parts stores? if so is it available in small tubes?
It does sound like a good bit of chemical engineering.What about the flexable bumper repair stuff?I think that it comes in black and you have to mix it kinda like JB weld?

Xeller8

This is designed for bumpers and stuff....not sure if it is available in smaller tubes or not...I'll check with my supplier...he will be making his weekly visit eithe tomorrow or Weds...did you read what I wrote about it earlier today? And yes it's black...if you tool it just right and get a smooth finish it is hardly noticable unlike the fiberglass resin which makes everything look all cobbled together...I'll take a pic of the hubs on my truck tomorrow and show you...

I'm tellin ya...this stuff is the BOMB!

carfanatic222

Yea I think that I've used this stuff before and I know exactly what you are talking about now. I used this stuff on a Mustang GT rear bumper to patch a small hole. This stuff is the Bomb.It has a real fast working time and gets set up really quick. It's pretty tough to sand too.You are on to something right here!

Xeller8

So you used the Automix system??...now..I'm not talking about Dura-mix...this is 3M's answer to Dura-mix...much better stuff in my opinion...Actually this stuff is pretty easy to sand and they have a new one out that is even easier to sand...they also have one that cures slower for more working time....but the cure can be sped up with a heat gun or an infra-red curing light (for those who own (like me) or work in body shops...lol) after you are done tooling it...

Like I said earlier...the only downfall is that the gun to dispense it costs a 100 bucks...so it may not be for EVERYONE.

carfanatic222

It came in a small package with the actual plastic in 1 tube and the hardner in another.
It was pretty darn expensive though for the amount that you end up with.I think this may be the quick fix to the hub problem.Until someone comes up with the parts.
I'm outta here PM

Cloot

I just got my volcano stx yesterday... Broke in the engine with the assistance of some friends, since the book was not exactly clear... (doesn't help that I'm a Noob)... Today, the truck is a blast.. I have had no problems with it as of yet... It has been accidentaly rolled twice, body didn't break... I was growing concerned that the truck would have issues after reading some of the former posts... I can't wait to start tweaking it a bit more with some upgrades...

Cloot

naviuk

Hi,

I'd have to say every truck is different, you might be lucky and have a good one every engine is sifferent and will behave according to how you treat it and run it in...
I've had a few issues but purley my own fault, i broke the back hub sopinning into a parked car and my manifold came off cause i didn;t check the screws before running it... lessons i now have learnt and hopefully won;t do again,
I say do your prechecks and the rest is up to how you look after it.

Cheers

Xeller8

YEP!...it's all in how you handle it...

Like I said earlier....I think a lot of people go into these trucks thinking they will be able to do some monster bashing like they could with trucks that cost 2-3 times as much....but thats not the case...with a little common sense...good tuning and upkeep these are very good trucks for the money.

Welcome aboard to all you newbies.[8D]

entity

My Feedback: (14)

hell even the expensive machines need some help if your gonna bash etc.. so don't get me wrong these machines are great for the money.

jatkinson24

Hello all,

Long time reader, first time poster:

Well, I've had the Volcano for a couple of weeks now and have had a blast!! I read a few of the previous posts and went through a lot of pros and cons before I decided to buy. I took a chance and bought one for about $170 shipped to my door. Not a bad deal considering most "name brand" RCs can cost you upward of $300+. Being a newbie, I decided to read as much as I possibly could on Nitro RC Cars. After the engine break in period, I took it to a field nearby and opened it up. WOW!! I was totally impressed. I have looked through posts and posts and I get the impression that most incur problems due to pure stupidity. I love the truck I have and only minor issues I would expect to encounter with it..........Clutch Spring, cracked body, etc. Overall, I am more than satisfied. Glad to now see some positive posts as opposed to mainly negative. Just really wanted to say thanks to all for your helpful previous posts. Without them, I would probably be out a lot of time and money.

James

jcam54

Welcome to the club James! Glad to hear that your having fun with your truck!

Some advice/my 0.02-----switch to 35wt shock oil and you will see the truck handle the jumps and bumps much better!!!
Mine did, also play around with the shock position on shock towers/lower arms, you might be surprised what it can do for you!!!!

levid

what's up darin

jatkinson24

Thanks for the advice jcam!! I'll give it a try.

bly4aub

Any word on Hop-ups for the Himoto/Redcat 1/10 trucks yet? Also, Im looking for a new Body that will fit good on the Truck. Looking for something unique like a jeep or older model truck body. Thanks

entity

My Feedback: (14)

Any 1/10th truck bodie will fit with some mods.. look up proline if you want some really cool looking older truck bodies at towerhobbies.

futabaed

PARMA body are a good fit too,plus they have many classic truck bodies (I just bought a 56 chevy pu body fit well with lil triming on my volcano stx)

entity

My Feedback: (14)

Ok people.. Have my manufactuer in place and will be taking a poll to see how many people are intersted in lower arms in aluminum and c-hubs.. aka door mounts.. let me know.. The average cost will be about 45.00 a set for the a-arms and about 30 for the hubs... but the more people that at least sign up.. I can show my manufacturer.. If this goes well further parts to follow.. Sign up now!.. NO cost.. Just put your name in and say yes.. Thanks.

naviuk

ummm... for the alloys...
In the words of Stone Cold Steve Austin "Gimme a HELL YEAH"


I'm in

cdeniro

I'd be in for that price